Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: DoubleJ on December 28, 2010, 10:08:35 AM
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I'm really looking to get a new truck in the next couple of years. I have decided that I want a diesel heavy duty truck. I haven't decided on a brand yet but, that's not the purpose of this thread. I did some thinking and I began to realize, I know nothing about diesel engines. I can work my way around a gas engine ok but, I have never worked on or maintained a diesel. I will most likely be getting a brand new truck. What type of things will I be needing to do for maintanence that is different from a gas engine?
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the big thing is just be prepared that any maintenance on a diesel will be more money than a gas truck, if you arent using it for what it was designed it does not pay to go diesel :twocents:
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Good luck working on the new turbo diesels of today. You will just need to use your warranty and take it in for repairs. You will be able to do your own oil and light maintenance but not much more. Guess that goes for today's gas engines too. I had a 1986 Ford with the 6.9 non turbo diesel and had it tore apart once. That was not bad at all, but the 6.9 was a very simple motor. I ran that old truck for 12 years before I could not keep her going anymore.
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I'll second what Jim just said. I just got an 2000 F250 with the 7.3L Powerstroke this summer. I love it, and I haul a lot of firewood, so it's great. BUT, everytime I need to fix something it's over $100, and that's usually just for the part.
Gives you a good feeling when you crawl under the thing and look at it. Waaaayyyy different than the half-tons and Toyota I have owned. It's not built like a car, it's built like a piece of "equipment". Like farm equipment. Big, HEAVY, sturdy...
They are a pain in the a$$ to work on though. The heads are like 100 lbs each, and the motor on my F250 is wedged up under the windshield, so to get to anything in the back part of the engine you either have to pull the motor, or remove the cab... :bash: Plan to change your own oil, getting it done at a shop is spendy. Don't forget to plug in the block heater when it's cold...
Like Jim said, if you don't really "need" one... :dunno:
If you are getting a new one, you probably won't have to worry about fixing stuff for a while though.
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Jim's correct.
Fuel filters are your best friend. Buy good filters that filter down to 2 microns will protect your injectors. Change them every 10k.
Air filtration is your second best friend. Using an oiled filter element collects up much more debris than a dry element. S&B or aFe are two oiled element filters for example.
Oil and filter. Buy a good quality filter element, not a Fram, and simply just run Delo 400 and your good to go.
What ever you do, run far away from the 6.0l Ford.
Flame suit on. :chuckle:
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I'll second what 6x6 said too. You are done buying stuff at Walmart and Napa for maintenance. Get to know your local "dealer" for parts, even for routine maintenance.
He's right about the 6.0Liter Ford as well. Everytime I tell a mechanic that I bought a Superduty, the first thing they ask is "did you get the 7.3L, or the 6.0L?" the 6 L motor has a pretty bad rep.
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Pulling the cab on Ford to get to the blown head gaskets is kinda spendy. :o
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The 6.0 has a horrible reputation. Stay away! We have one 6.0 in an Ambulance at work, and it is a hunk O crap!
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Dodge will no longer warranty repair any engines that the owner can not prove changing the fuel filters in every 15k miles. It's about $100 to do a fuel filter here, and an $89.95 oil change.
There's no spark plugs to change(real trucks don't have spark plugs) so there's a non-expense there.
I think they used to be a lot more worth it before they went to DPF systems and all the other emissions crap that took away all the fuel mileage.
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I'm taking my chances on a 2003 Ford 350, 7.3 diesel now myself. I've got over 20,000 miles on it since purchase and so far very happy. Everyone told me the same, get the older 7.3 ford or get a 2005 or older dodge, don't get a newer dodge or ford. I heard mixed reports on the Chevy Duramax and was unable to get a clear opinion.
I really like this Ford but I can tell you I do not get as good of mileage as those older dodges get that have a manual tranny. Many of those are getting 20+, I am getting about 15 to 17 all around. I pulled my older dodge flatbed on a trailer from Idaho and got 12.5. That dodge V10 only gets 9 pulling itself... :chuckle:
Good luck. :)
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I got an 07 chevy diesel this summer. I am pretty good at workin on my older gas chevy but theres not a whole lot I would be willing to do on this motor. Heck I don't even change my own oil in this one. Although they are a spendy drive train to fix they should have much less problems and last much longer than any gas motor as long as you buy a chevy. Plus they tow so much nicer and all the new ones have exhaust brakes on em this year I believe, which is nice for saving your brakes. I tow a jetsled once a week and will never buy another gas motor, the duramax is just too nice. And I have learned to only use good parts on these. I had the fuel filter plug up and crap the truck out with 70% life left on it according to the computer. It was a 15 buck walmart filter, now I get the 60 buck chevy filters. Diesels are not that much different maintenance wise though just more spendy but heck when you got 300k miles on your stock motor and tranny and the truck still drives nice they are worth it. As long as diesel doesn't go to 10 bucks a gallon.
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Dodge will no longer warranty repair any engines that the owner can not prove changing the fuel filters in every 15k miles. It's about $100 to do a fuel filter here, and an $89.95 oil change.
There's no spark plugs to change(real trucks don't have spark plugs) so there's a non-expense there.
I think they used to be a lot more worth it before they went to DPF systems and all the other emissions crap that took away all the fuel mileage.
Yup.
"Proving" meaning receipts for purchases and documented in the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
Same for oil changes too.
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Right...the fuel filter requirement is new.
Engines and injectors too. If we decide there is more than 1 injector thats bad(it happens) and its a warranty situation, we need maintenance records(fuel filters every 15k miles) and then we pull all 6 injectors, send them to a shop for testing. They verify that some injectors are bad, then we replace them and not until the test shop verifies it. Some of the new policies suck for both sides of the fence. Cummins warranties injectors, for example, for 100k miles so folks need to make sure they take care of their maintenance always...
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I pretty well agree with what everyone else has been saying. Stay away from the new stuff, you'll probably be in the shop too much to enjoy your new truck. Try doing some research on a diesel forum, you can learn a lot there, find out what ailments each particular truck is prone to, and what to stay away from.
Another huge thing to consider is whether you are getting an automatic or a manual. To me, that would make my mind up as to which manufacturer to use. Every make has had it's bad years of trannys, so look for that.
My opinion, I'd go with either the Chev or the Dodge. If I went brand new, I'd do the Chev, having the option of the Alison which is a proven transmission. Or It'd be the Dodge with the 6spd, but I don't like the new motor. Ideally, an 05 or older Dodge with the 6spd and low miles. I have an 04 Dodge with the auto, which I regret, but I've had no troubles with the truck other than the known weak link of the lift pump, which was warrantied. I have 76k on it now, and get 20mpg empty, 15mpg loaded with about 8k on the hiway.
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I'll reply in short...
LOVE THE 6.0 IN MY 2004 SUPERDUTY 4x4 FORD WITH ZF6spd! One EGR valve, two ball joints and two front rotors in 130,000 miles. (I'll change the rear rotors and all four Rancho shocks after the first of the year.) Regular oil changes with Dello400 every 5000 miles. Fuel filter changes every 30,000 miles. Air filter changes every 40,000 miles.
Don't just look at the engines.... There are issues with ball joints of the Fords. The front rotors are junk, but there are aftermarket replacements that are great!
Never scrimp on maintenance with a diesel powered truck. Treat them well, and they'll treat you well.
Narrow your choices of brand down by the trucks intended use and your budget. The GM drives like a car. Erganomics in the interior are the best of the big three. Duramax is Isusu... Tons of good and bad reputation of the Alison transmissions. Ford interiors come in second place. Powerstroke is International Engines. I buy my fuel and oil filters at the local MotorFreight/International parts depot. (cheaper) The 6.0 air/fuel/oil filters are patented. Ford auto transmissions have gotten much better, but I still like the ZF6 in a manual tranny with granny gear. That tranny is used up to 24,000#gvw panel/flat bed trucks. Same tranny used for quite a while in GM too. Max GVW for domestic trucks is reduced for that tranny 'on paper', but don't let that fool ya. I've hauled/towed double the tow rating of my truck without issue. I do not trust an automatic behind a diesel at all. Too many horor stories. The Dodge 'Cummins' is a real inline 6 Diesel engine. Gobs of torque. They're 5spd is a nice shifting tranny. I think most will agree that the Dodge is capable of the best fuel economy, but the older Ford turbo'd 7.3's did quite well in that department. The newer 6.4 Ford not so good on fuel. I have kept a log book of everything done to my truck, fuel economy has averaged 17mpg for the life of the truck. I get 15mpg towing a 29' camp trailer across the passes. Best I've gotten empty is 22mpg from Seattle to Portland on I-5.
Stay away from the early 2003 Ford Superduty's with 7.3's, and the late/mid 2003's with 6.0. That was a bad cross-over year for Ford. Some little things like little electronics and such that weren't proven on the 7.3's and the head studs for the 6.0 were troublesome. Up through 2005 the auto tranny had a series of design faults. But, the recalls did well to fix them so anything used, should have been fixed. The tow-haul mode with transmission braking is sweet.
Get on the diesel truck forums.
(yes, these are commercial forums, but I'm only pointing him toward information, not to make purchases)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums) http://www.thedieselstop.com (http://www.thedieselstop.com) http://www.duramaxforum.com (http://www.duramaxforum.com) http://www.cumminsforum.com (http://www.cumminsforum.com)
I read a lot of stuff and asked questions for months before I bought my truck. Inform yourself and you'll most likely end up a happy diesel pickup owner.
-Steve
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not that i am doubting you but i have never heard negative of the allison trans other than regular service of the fluid and both filters, i love mine, the tow/haul feature is awesome
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Another pretty happy 2006 6.0 Ford owner here, too. I have the auto and wish I had the ZF6 like my gasser had before. Oh well - when you get a deal, you take it.
My advice to a potential diesel truck owner? Buy good oil in bulk when it's on sale. At 15 quarts a change for my 6.0, it adds up fast. Always keep a spare fuel filter with you, and know how to change it (or them, in my case) blindfolded. Buy filters in bulk online. Doing that, you can sometimes get the cost of an oil change down to under $50. If you buy a newer one, bring your dealer service department a fifth of whatever he wants and keep him happy. You guys will get to be good friends and spend a lot of time together if you don't regularly change your fuel filters.
Final piece of advice - if you don't regualry tow/haul heavy loads long distances, get a gasser. Just not worth the extra costs owning a diesel unless you use it for what it was made to do.
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I like this thread, this is great advice. I just traded my gas F-250 for an 01 F-350 diesel with the 7.3L in it last week. and I have to say I love it thus far. it is going in tomorrow to get all the filters changed, fluids changed and a quick once over before i head over the mountain for new years. I only got a diesel because we are planning on getting a trailer this spring so the pulling power will be nice. everything that i have read so far on this thread is exactly everything that i have heard. one thing is I am not sure if it is true or not that if the rear main seal goes out on a certain ford, I think the 06' or 07' ?? that the entire cab of the truck has to come off in order to change it, is this true? I have also heard as well that the 6.0 is a crap motor but my huntin partnet has an 04 f-250 that he loves and has not really had to many issues with it yet.
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Yes, to pull the engine on a Ford... You pull the cab off the frame to get it out.
-Steve
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Yes, to pull the engine on a Ford... You pull the cab off the frame to get it out.
-Steve
I was at the ford dealership the other day and saw one of these operations in the works... :yike:
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If i didnt have a big trailer, I would have a gas truck. Diesels are just money pits
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Yes, to pull the engine on a Ford... You pull the cab off the frame to get it out.
-Steve
I was at the ford dealership the other day and saw one of these operations in the works... :yike:
:yike: yea so probably avoid that year of truck then ;) Ouch that has got to be a spendy little operation....
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I drive a lot of company trucks in the 2007-2009 range. Between Fords, Dodges, and Chevys, I'd say I like the smoothness and interior of the Chevy, but if I want to hit the dirt the Ford wins hands down.
I could see myself writing a similar thread. I grew up fixing my broken gas engine vehicles, but I don't have the first clue how a glow plug works. In addition, while I don't fancy myself a road hunter, I have no qualms about hopping out of the truck, loading my rifle, and blasting an animal. It seems as though the loudness of the diesel puts an end to that possibility before it starts.
+1 to the 'if you don't need it...' crowd.
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K. Thanks guys. I'll probably stick to gas.
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Thanks for advice on the fuel filter, I have not changed mine yet, will get after that asap. :)
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the big thing is just be prepared that any maintenance on a diesel will be more money than a gas truck, if you arent using it for what it was designed it does not pay to go diesel :twocents:
I did the math and they made the diesel expencive enough it cost the same per mile as a big block gas engine.
Until you start pulling a load.
But it should last way longer than a gas engine,which only makes a difference if you keep your vehicles for ever
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Yes, to pull the engine on a Ford... You pull the cab off the frame to get it out.
-Steve
I was at the ford dealership the other day and saw one of these operations in the works... :yike:
I've talked to techs that have pulled the engines on all big three... Ford techs say its so easy to work the engine once the cab is out of the way that its worth it.
-Steve
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I pretty much agree with what everyone has said about the new trucks with boat loads of emissions crap, it has totally killed the mileage. It also has affected reliability to some extent, I don't think it really hurts the engine it just kills mileage and causes limp modes from regeneration issues.
There is a fix though cut it off and throw it away buy a programmer that bypasses it and enjoy more power and better mileage. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 6.7l Cummins, but I don't have to do emissions testing currently.
As for filters I use nothing but Fleetguard now owned by (Cummins filtration). Look under the hood of most over the road trucks or equipment with diesel power and these are what you will find. One thing I would like to add to this is the Powerstroke and the Duramax are not used in any equipment to my knowledge other than the pickups/heavy duty trucks F550 ect. So finding good cost efficient aftermarket filters like fleetguard may be difficult. The fleetguard for my 01 Dodge is around $15 for the oil and $12 for the fuel.
Another thing to remember about new diesels is the Urea they are requiring them to use. Ford and Chev both use them Dodge is the only one of the big three that hasn't had to use it yet. Urea is a additive that is injected into the exhaust to help scrub the system and is something that will have a tank and will need to be filled at certain intervals. Not sure on price and availability but its worth checking into when considering a new truck.
Also Fords and Chevs have glow plugs to assist in cold starts they do wear out as well as there controllers. Cummins don't have them instead they use a grid heater in the intake to heat the intake air I have never heard of one wearing out. I have heard of issues with them but its very rare. I have read the new Fords don't need nearly as much glow plug warm up time to start which may help with wear on them. Not sure on the Chev.
Not trying to scare anyone away from Diesel power its great, I love mine and will never buy a fullsize truck without one again just wanted to point those things out.
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Long Block
Auto Trans B 0.0 25.6
Includes: R&I Engine & Transfer All Necessary Components Not Supplied With Long Block.
Manual Trans B 0.0 28.0
Includes: R&I Engine & Transfer All Necessary Components Not Supplied With Long Block.
NOTE
To Clean CAC Tube, Add B 0.0 0.2
With Dual Alternators, Add B 0.0 0.4
Steve-
What they're actually saying is the book pays pretty damn good to do these motors. Holy crap 28 hours for a long block...
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yeah.. I know! hell, I pulled the 460 out of my 88' Ford 4x4 with 4" suspention lift and I left the dog'on hood ON!
-Steve
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K. Thanks guys. I'll probably stick to gas.
You can still pull and haul chit with a gas.. Diesel just seems to make sense if you regularly haul 1,000 lbs or tow a lot. I doubt that you'd even get much of an advantage with diesel if all you pull is some lightweight fishing boat, to boot. I went through the same considerations when I bought my (gas) Toyota Tundra. Lovin' every huntin' minute of it. :IBCOOL:
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I'm thinking I want the F350. Won't use it all the time but I'd hate to need it and not have it
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Great choice but make sure you get one with the 7.3 diesel!
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Probably not getting any, just window shopping. looking at the 2011 6.2l gas F350
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My work truck fleet is a good baseline I've followed for the last 7 years here. Every single mile on our trucks is pulling a 24' Wellscargo Trailer which usually weight about 15K on the scale.
Our fleet was filled with Ford F-350's since 2000.
In 2004 we bought our first 6.0L trucks. By 2006 We had 6 F-350 6L trucks. We can easily put 50K on a year unless the truck is on a big job and not on the highway doing a bunch of running around. Our low mileage trucks usually have a ton of off road miles on them due to job locations in Montana, WY, NV, OR, WA,etc. We currently have 3 6L trucks left in our fleet. Two do not run, one will not start without starting fluid. None of the three left have over 190K miles. These trucks are strictly maintained, oil and filters changed and monitored.
We have two 2000 F-350's at our office in Reno with over 200K and no major repairs.
We now have been buying Chevy Duramax / Allison combos. We currently have 8 as of last week-a new 2011.
Our highest mileage Chevy has 165K. I think the 2007. It has spent time in the shop for electrical issues and transmission issues. Both were minor easy fixes but, have also been re-occuring.
Overall, right now- Chevy is the only Choice. Might be a while until Ford motor is proven. Dodge's can't take the heavy work- they fall apart. We have only tried two Dodges, one 1998 and a 2000. They can't take the off road beating our trucks endure going up to old mining sites and driving around landfills. They had all sorts of fit and finish issues, tranny and electrical problems. We left one in Montana on a trade in for a Chevy a couple years back.
Anyone needs two 6L parts trucks- we have them sitting here in Kent looking for a new home. Poor condition bodys, 4 doors, plastic interior, dual rw, flatbeds. not running. send me a PM -
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Probably not getting any, just window shopping. looking at the 2011 6.2l gas F350
Good call.
A truck with almost 400hp will tow just about anything that any of us will need to tow.
With the way the new diesels are getting hamstrung by emmision laws,the advantage of the diesel isn't what it used to be.
My next truck won't have a diesel engine.
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I think the biggest issue with the newer diesels is all the emission stuff. I have a 6.7 cummins. 6 inch lift with 37" toyo MT's. I was averaging 9.9 mpgs around town. Mind you I only drive it a total of maybe 15 miles a day during the week. I change the oil with Delo every 3000 miles and have changed the fuel filter twice. I only have 30,000 miles on it. I finally made the decision to add a tuner and remove all the emissions stuff. No emissions on Fox Island ;). I just removed the dpf on Sunday and I'm already over 13 mpg's just around town. Tonight after work I'll be blocking off the egr. I'll be curious to see how that affects mileage. Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is if you do go with a brand new truck, be aware of all the emission stuff and how it will affect the longevity of your motor and fuel mileage. They require more attention with filters and oil changes. Good luck!
MS
Oh and my only other gripe is the frickin cost of diesel!!! Sure isn't what it was a few years back.
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You should get close to 20 Muley.
Did you get the Black Max or Mini Max from H&S Performance?
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I went with a Smarty. Seems the majority vote on cumminsforum.com was the Smarty tuner for the 6.7. I still need to add an intake and would like to do a new down pipe. I need an excuse to head east to do some yote hunting, might have to convince the wife I need to check my highway mpg's :chuckle:
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Kept my 78 Ford F150 that I converted to standard transmission and got rid of the chain drive transfercase for a married 205, installed a Dana60 with 4.10:1 gear'd trackloc in the rear, and outfitted the front Dana44 with 4.10:1 gear'd detroit locker to F250 spindles/brakes/hubs but retained the coil front suspension with 6" lift, ... I kept it for nine years. I have no idea how many miles.
My 88 Ford F250 with built FI 460 with the big'ole Banks 3 1/2" exhaust and 4" lift I kept for just over ten years. For half the time I had it, it was a second rig and sat in my shop for days on end while I drove a hotrod. I still managed to put 100,000 miles on it.
I've had my PowerStroke since fall of 04' and now have 130,000 miles on it. I plan to get 300,000 miles out of the powerplant. I figue that'll be about 12 years of ownership or so..
I think that my next truck will still be diesel powered. There are lots of emissions regulations, but I bet in the next few years that all the big three will have the emissions stuff figured out.
Just add propane! (It'll all be cleaner but you're gonna have to hold the heck on missy!)
-Steve
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4" down tube dropped my post turbo EGT's more than 250 degrees on a hard pull.
-Steve
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I went with a Smarty. Seems the majority vote on cumminsforum.com was the Smarty tuner for the 6.7. I still need to add an intake and would like to do a new down pipe. I need an excuse to head east to do some yote hunting, might have to convince the wife I need to check my highway mpg's :chuckle:
S-06 Smarty on my '05.
Be careful with timing adjustments. Too much timing makes the head gasket go boom. But I think Bob and Marco got that one sorted out.
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I've been ruminating on a new-to-me diesel truck...one thing that is a WHOLESALE turnoff for the newer ones....
MUFFLER FLUID!!!!!!!!!!! :dunno:
Another thing to remember about new diesels is the Urea they are requiring them to use. Ford and Chev both use them Dodge is the only one of the big three that hasn't had to use it yet. Urea is a additive that is injected into the exhaust to help scrub the system and is something that will have a tank and will need to be filled at certain intervals. Not sure on price and availability but its worth checking into when considering a new truck.
:bash:
What next....Blinker fluid? :'(
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I've been ruminating on a new-to-me diesel truck...one thing that is a WHOLESALE turnoff for the newer ones....
MUFFLER FLUID!!!!!!!!!!! :dunno:
Another thing to remember about new diesels is the Urea they are requiring them to use. Ford and Chev both use them Dodge is the only one of the big three that hasn't had to use it yet. Urea is a additive that is injected into the exhaust to help scrub the system and is something that will have a tank and will need to be filled at certain intervals. Not sure on price and availability but its worth checking into when considering a new truck.
:bash:
What next....Blinker fluid? :'(
Dodge uses it too.
:dunno:
4500's and bigger now, all of them next year.
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Currently how much are you guys paying for per gallon diesel fuel (like in the last week/month)
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diesel trucks are made for long driving distances and/or pulling heavy loads... If your commute is sort or don't put that many miles on a diesel is not for you... I have an 03 and 05dodge cummins with the 6speed stick 2wd duelly.. has done anything i have asked it to do... They are either parked or driving down the freeway running for more that 2hrs at a time...I will wear out the other componets that are dodge and replace them before i get rid of these 2 work horses...
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I fuel up about every 8 days. Lately that's been $3.20/gal. for about a $110 fill up. ~600 miles to a tank unless Its all highway, then she'll go +650. (I runn'r until the low fuel light comes on. Ole' Wilber has a factory 38gallon tank that I've put 37gallons into more than once). I could pay $3.39 just down the road from my home if I wanted to, but I've got my select couple of stations that seem to always have the best price in the county.
-Steve
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I fuel up about every 8 days. Lately that's been $3.20/gal. for about a $110 fill up. (I runn'r until the low fuel light comes on. Ole' Wilber has a factory 38gallon tank that I've put 37gallons into more than once). I could pay $3.39 just down the road from my home if I wanted to, but I've got my select couple of stations that seem to always have the best price in the county.
-Steve
Care to share where your best prices are?
Fred Meyer on Bakerview I will only do after the Canadian curfew hits around 10:00 PM. :chuckle:
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Fred Meyer at Lakeway. Starvin Sams or Conoco in Ferndale have been the cheapest for the 6 years I've owned my truck. If you pay 'cash' then the BP at Guide and Pole road is sometimes cheaper. Arco in Lynden is sometimes cheaper but they charge to use debit.
Oh,, and Fredies at Bakerview won't let the tab go past $75 on debit/credit. The one on Lakeway will go till its full. I use an air miles credit card to well past $100 to fill there without it stopping on me.
-Steve
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I've been ruminating on a new-to-me diesel truck...one thing that is a WHOLESALE turnoff for the newer ones....
MUFFLER FLUID!!!!!!!!!!! :dunno:
Another thing to remember about new diesels is the Urea they are requiring them to use. Ford and Chev both use them Dodge is the only one of the big three that hasn't had to use it yet. Urea is a additive that is injected into the exhaust to help scrub the system and is something that will have a tank and will need to be filled at certain intervals. Not sure on price and availability but its worth checking into when considering a new truck.
:bash:
What next....Blinker fluid? :'(
Dodge uses it too.
:dunno:
4500's and bigger now, all of them next year.
Could you point me in the direction where you got this info. I know the Cab and Chassis trucks have it but haven't been able to find anything saying the regular pickups would have it.
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Thank You.
Funny story.
The short little blonde lady that runs the Lakeway Fred's and hides in the little house right off our tailpipes asked me to shut my truck off when I was waiting in line to fuel up a year and half ago.
I had just dropped in some new 240 hp injectors in it and it was hazing to say the least and I couldn't since the egt's were still over 400*. :chuckle:
But hey, I got first in the sled pull at Berthusen a few hours later.
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I've been ruminating on a new-to-me diesel truck...one thing that is a WHOLESALE turnoff for the newer ones....
MUFFLER FLUID!!!!!!!!!!! :dunno:
Another thing to remember about new diesels is the Urea they are requiring them to use. Ford and Chev both use them Dodge is the only one of the big three that hasn't had to use it yet. Urea is a additive that is injected into the exhaust to help scrub the system and is something that will have a tank and will need to be filled at certain intervals. Not sure on price and availability but its worth checking into when considering a new truck.
:bash:
What next....Blinker fluid? :'(
Dodge uses it too.
:dunno:
4500's and bigger now, all of them next year.
Could you point me in the direction where you got this info. I know the Cab and Chassis trucks have it but haven't been able to find anything saying the regular pickups would have it.
I just finished all the training on it. It's all on a password protected dealer website :'( . If I can find something that I have the ability to show you, I will.
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A buddy of mine owns some Jiffy Lubes and has had training for it. Said it is Urea. Helps exhaust burn off crap. Its going to be like filling up your washer fluid and it can last up to two oil changes but, will be topped off every change. If you run out, he said the computer in the motor will de-tune your power curve to keep under predicted emmissions. Running de-tuned will not affect the motor. Everything goes back to normal when it gets filled. I think he said it may add something like $15 to a standard oil change. Dealers will be charging over $50 is the word. more incentive to change oil at places other than dealers.
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For the Ford 6.7:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1022611-another-def-fill-post.html (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1022611-another-def-fill-post.html)
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I've got a 99 F350 Dually 4x4 with a 7.3 and an auto. No real problems to speak of. I did the ball joints a few years back. Had a little incident with the under valve cover harness for the injectors. Other than that, it's been a great truck. I did add an additional cooler to the transmission and I think that is the key to having it survive. I built my own tuner for the motor and get better fuel mileage than when it was stock. It tows anything I want, and gets around 24mpg on long road trips. I average about 18 around town. I got 16.2 towing our travel trailer over the North Cascades this last deer season, and I was not waiting around for anything. My Dad used to have a 81 F350 he had a camper on. He got tired of me waiting for him at the top of the pass and went out and bought a '08 F250 with a 6.4 in it so he could keep up. He is averaging 17mpg with his.
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I am all gas these days. The family and I took our newly purchased 08 Tundra down to our good friends farm to buy a few ton of hay. We put two ton on the trailer and 10 bales in the bed. I know this is not a huge amount of weight, but that Tundra handled it VERY well! Lots of power and very stable. We got 12mpg on the trip home loaded from Goldendale to Moses Lake. I am a big fan of Toyota's 5.7 V-8. Diesel is just not practical for me anymore. If I am moving cows or something heavy I use the F-350 with the v-10 and 6 speed manual. Gas gets the job done for me.
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Diesel is just not practical for me anymore.
Diesel isn't practical for a lot of people. I think for a lot of guys,having a big burly diesel is good for their self estem. :chuckle:
If I could talk my wife into either a motorhome,or something smaller than our current 33' fifth wheel,I'd go back to a 1/2 ton gas truck in a heartbeat.
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After towing with a diesel, I will never tow with gas again. 8)
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Not to thread jack, but since mileage has been a topic here I'll go ahead. I finished off my emissions delete this evening and I'm happy to report 15.2 mpg's on my short, up and down, stop and go 7 mile drive home from from work tonight. :IBCOOL: I should be golden on long hauls towing going camping or fishing. Oh, and for you gas lovers! The only ones I respect when I blast by em towing up vantage hill are the guys with the Chev 8.1's otherwise move over and enjoy my exhaust :chuckle: :chuckle:
MS
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when I blast by em towing up vantage hill are the guys with the Chev 8.1's otherwise move over and enjoy my exhaust :chuckle: :chuckle:
MS
Now that you have exhaust it will be even better.
8)
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It's nice finally being able to puff out some blackness :chuckle: Makes it fun when passing the obnoxious road bikers who hog the fog line :chuckle:
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I have a 2010 ford diesel that is the biggest dissapointment in a truck I have ever owned, my 07 dodge would eat this thing alive, piss poor power and fuel milage. My only saving grace is I have two logtucks with 3406 cats that are pushin 650 hp.
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Hoestly all of our diesels have pros and cons from over the road trucks to our wanna be big rigs pick up trucks, I am very partail to an in line diesel vrs. a v-8 configuration. As for cost ya a diesel can brake the bank quick for repairs but on the flip side your gas pots can brake the bank also. It all comes down to the fact of what you like and what you want dont let a diesel intimidate you good luck. ;)
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My guys are putting an injection pump in an 08 Cummins 6.7L tomorrow. It will cost Chrysler $5500 at warranty cost. Thats probably 8 g's customer pay.
:yike:
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My guys are putting an injection pump in an 08 Cummins 6.7L tomorrow. It will cost Chrysler $5500 at warranty cost. Thats probably 8 g's customer pay.
:yike:
:yike: WOW, Why so much, Oregon fuel injection sells rebuilt one's for $755.00. Upgraded pumps are between 1-2k.
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My guys are putting an injection pump in an 08 Cummins 6.7L tomorrow. It will cost Chrysler $5500 at warranty cost. Thats probably 8 g's customer pay.
:yike:
:yike: WOW, Why so much, Oregon fuel injection sells rebuilt one's for $755.00. Upgraded pumps are between 1-2k.
Factory Warranty. Have to use factory parts.
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My guys are putting an injection pump in an 08 Cummins 6.7L tomorrow. It will cost Chrysler $5500 at warranty cost. Thats probably 8 g's customer pay.
:yike:
Ok, I'll bite.
The cp3 is a +- $600 part after the $400 core is taken out of the equation.
What would make this cost $5,500 under warranty or $8,000 to the customer?
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You don't have to answer that question. :chuckle:
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:chuckle: :chuckle:
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That's the long definition of RAPE!
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LMAO
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My guys are putting an injection pump in an 08 Cummins 6.7L tomorrow. It will cost Chrysler $5500 at warranty cost. Thats probably 8 g's customer pay.
:yike:
Ok, I'll bite.
The cp3 is a +- $600 part after the $400 core is taken out of the equation.
What would make this cost $5,500 under warranty or $8,000 to the customer?
You'd have to call Chrysler and ask them.
I don't invent the prices. That is the price that Chrysler sets for it.
You're familiar with Alldata right?
Part OEM Part Price
Diesel MFI Pump
Injection Pump 68027022AA $5600.00
Labor Skill
Level Mfg.
Warranty Standard
Diesel MFI Pump
Replace B 1.9 2.6
NOTE
With Jacob Brake, Add B 0.3 0.5
As I said earlier in this thread...I can't use aftermarket parts for warranty work.
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I'd like to be the guy at Bosch who builds the OEM pumps, as long as there's a profit sharing plan in place. :chuckle:
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;)
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I shoulda posted the screen that shows the cost...
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I've got new bosch injectors in one of my dodges... My buddy put some kind of hi flow injectors in his rig and didn't do anything else..said it made the rig run smoother AND slightly better fuel milage... ever heard of that kinda thing? I'll have ot get the brand and specs...
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Oh, I believe you. I know what Alldata has to say.
I would be curious, if you ever find out, what caused the pump to crap out. It's not very often as you now. Sure, FCA's, HPLV's, COV's, rail pressure senser's etc. do go on the blink. The cp3 is a pretty tough pump.
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I've got new bosch injectors in one of my dodges... My buddy put some kind of hi flow injectors in his rig and didn't do anything else..said it made the rig run smoother AND slightly better fuel milage... ever heard of that kinda thing? I'll have ot get the brand and specs...
Yup, better mpg and run's smoother. Throw a cam shaft in it and it's even better. A better intercooler and a turbo or two and your getting somewhere. :chuckle:
http://www.f1diesel.com/ (http://www.f1diesel.com/)
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The pump is leaking...I don't know exactly how or where, runs like a champ till he puts a load on it. Our shop is 3 blocks down the road so I see the truck when I write it up and I see it when it's done. I will sometimes go all week without even seeing my techs. It's a crummy deal but it is what it is.
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I respect when I blast by em towing up vantage hill are the guys with the Chev 8.1's otherwise move over and enjoy my exhaust
MS
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Vantage is a candyass pass....i really can not think of any pass in this state that is a true test..
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Then that really says something about the gas engines doesn't it? :chuckle:
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why buy a smudge pot... buy gas :twocents:
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:)I respect when I blast by em towing up vantage hill are the guys with the Chev 8.1's otherwise move over and enjoy my exhaust
MS
:dunno: :rolleyes:
shoot fire! I didn't know it wuz a race!! now that I know: start in Vantage
I figure getting a good run down the hill west bound, take the outside lane and make that right turn onto the bridge at about 80 stand on it accross the bridge and stay in the left lane, if they try to pass(with no bump) just wing yer trailer out in front of them. straddle the line between left and center. :chuckle: if they dive into the far right lane some slow truck will let you cut them off.
:dunno:
when you hit the flat at Eburg remember to flip them off when they pass and you will see them again between cle elum and the pass. Then again on Tiger mountain, remember to wave. :chuckle:
Carl
O'course I am driving my girly little 1/2 ton and my weinie 22 foot trailer. :P
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I run 150 hp injector and custom injection pump in my Cummin and lift pump. I get great mileage and i pulls like a semi. It is always funny to hear peoples reasoning for gas engines and way diesels are so horrible. I am currently at 256k on the truck and would not give it up for anything. I like that post about the price of a injection pumps from the dealer i had a run in with a dealer it was a Sunday pump went out on a trip had to buy a pump for over 3k. Someone must be looking out for me i get back home and the pump go's out again. So pump number two in two days found a custom pump for half the price. Needless to say took me 2 weeks of fighting to get my money back. Had to take the pump and have it test by a Bosch pump build to prove that i was right. The service manager at the dealership told me "These pumps never are bad from the factor you are the one who destroyed it and you are going to pay for your stupid mistake." If it was possible i would have jump through the phone and murder the guy. Point of this is diesels are great trucks they will run forever if you give it love. As long as it not a newer ford 6.0 6.4 or 6.7 :P
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." If it was possible i would have jump through the phone and murder the guy.
right.. :rolleyes:
You should have just took the truck back to them and got another injection pump for free rather than spending another $1500 on another one. I don't understand that....
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What is with all the trashing on 6.0 diesels I own a 06 f250 with the 6.0 and love it, I will agree the 03 was a bad year for them being new and all but the 06 model has fewest warranty claims than any powerstroke. I have owned a 98 dodge Cummings and will never own a dodge again. That is my opinion we all have one, I guess I get sick of people talking trash about a truck that they don't own or drive. They just hear stuff and believe it all to be true :twocents: thanks for letting me vent.
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my factory dodge Cummins has pulled 30kgvw from Longview to Mt Vernon not dropping below 60mph from the factory...... Unfortunately you need a specialty mechanic from a Diesel shop to get REAL service from a factory product... I don't think it matters what brand of big 3 it is.... From what i understand all big 3 diesels are so de-tuned to meant auto tranny requirements and Emissions BS they F-up just because...
If you want a real pulling rig its diesel and a stick... just ask the professional haulers... Just let me know if i'm wrong......
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You're not wrong regarding the emissions crap causing problems for all the manufacturers, although it seems that everyone's got it figured out now.
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Jackalope by that you mean the bypass systems... If you go over a scale that is not an option, because of inspections.... That is why i will run my rigs into the dirt.... :twocents:
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No I mean the regen and other stuff that cleans the EGR and turbos of carbon buildup caused by the new DPF stuff. That was the problems that all of the big 3 had with the new emissions stuff at first. Every so often a 6.7L Cummins runs itself through a regeneration process where it sort of burns itself clean. For someone using a truck like you use yours, you'd likely not ever have a problem with it. The guys that were having problems are the little short dudes in Bellevue that buy diesel trucks to go to Bellevue Square and never use them for what they are supposed to be used for. Long periods of idling is bad for them, stop and go driving, etc. all bad. The thing that seemed to have fixed the Cummins trucks was a recall to reprogram the PCM to make the regen happen differently.
I heard a story from a fleet guy that the guys up on the ice roads wanted to buy a whole pile of new Dodge trucks a few years ago but the fact that they were having all the issues with them scared them away. Not being able to leave them idle all the time is an automatic disqualifier up there. I don't know how true that story is...just something I heard from a fleet guy.
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A lot of the reading I did when I bought my truck and long after I did, there were issues with all the big three diesels up north.. What I did read is that a lot of guys working the oil pipeline wanted the old Ford 7.3's back. The 6.0's where outfitted with EGR delete kits so they could idle for long periods. The same couldn't be done for the Ambulances and other service rigs in the lower 48, but a different egr valve was disgned and became available in mid 06. I have that one now. I am probably one of the more disciplined diesel owners that lets his truck idle/warm up when it's cold and the same for cool down and have not had a problem. Still not the same as the guys in the cold or service rigs but I'm happy so far.
I cannot bash any of the big three as they all have problems. But most of them that are taken care of will run circles around the gassers with more power and better fuel economy.
-Steve
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the reason i didn't take it back to the dealer is because I live in Washington and the pump was bought in another state and was twice the cost of my pump now. 15 hr trip with a pump that would stop sending fuels didn't sound fun. They where not willing to let a local dealer work on it either.
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the reason i didn't take it back to the dealer is because I live in Washington and the pump was bought in another state and was twice the cost of my pump now. 15 hr trip with a pump that would stop sending fuels didn't sound fun. They where not willing to let a local dealer work on it either.
I hope your running an Air Dog, Fass or the likes to feed that VP and those 150's because it's only a matter of time before you toast another one. :)
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the reason i didn't take it back to the dealer is because I live in Washington and the pump was bought in another state and was twice the cost of my pump now. 15 hr trip with a pump that would stop sending fuels didn't sound fun. They where not willing to let a local dealer work on it either.
I hope your running an Air Dog, Fass or the likes to feed that VP and those 150's because it's only a matter of time before you toast another one. :)
What exactly does the Fass do? And it the fancy Amsoil filter/recycler thing that loops to the filler worth it?
I hear of prolonged oil changes but honestly it seems a catch 22. Spend the money and use delo every 3000k or spend about the same amount switching to amsoil and do it every ten?
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the reason i didn't take it back to the dealer is because I live in Washington and the pump was bought in another state and was twice the cost of my pump now. 15 hr trip with a pump that would stop sending fuels didn't sound fun. They where not willing to let a local dealer work on it either.
I hope your running an Air Dog, Fass or the likes to feed that VP and those 150's because it's only a matter of time before you toast another one. :)
What exactly does the Fass do? And it the fancy Amsoil filter/recycler thing that loops to the filler worth it?
I hear of prolonged oil changes but honestly it seems a catch 22. Spend the money and use delo every 3000k or spend about the same amount switching to amsoil and do it every ten?
No, the Amsoil bypass oil filter is not worth the expense. Just by good Fleetguard filters from Cummins Northwest or on-line and your good to go.
A Fass provides extra filtration, a better water seperator and aids in eliminating air in the fuel delivery system along with greater psi of fuel to feed the injection pump so you don't drain the fuel rail (common rail engines) that feeds the injectors. Basically, it aids from starving the injection pump of fuel and a better job of keeping debris from getting to your injectors. Water and debris are the #1 cause of failed injectors which ultimately can kill your engine.
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the reason i didn't take it back to the dealer is because I live in Washington and the pump was bought in another state and was twice the cost of my pump now. 15 hr trip with a pump that would stop sending fuels didn't sound fun. They where not willing to let a local dealer work on it either.
Warranty is good at any dealer nationwide if it is a Mopar part. You got fed the wrong info. Sorry to hear that.
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the nice thing about the amsoil system is that it starts generating oil pressure as soon as the key is cycled so especially in a diesel when you are waiting for the light it is already building oil pressure. peace of mind i guess, at least for me :dunno:
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O just because that all i listed doesn't mean anything. My whole fuel system is upgrade including my lines and i am running Fass pump relocated by the tank. The Fass lift pump also provide a large amount of fuel compared to the OEM. The pump also are one of the only lift pump with a warranty for 2 or 3 years. They are worth every penny you pay for them. IF you own the Vp 24v trucks it the first think you should buy if hasn't been down. It will save you so much pain down the road.
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Good thread, great info.. Thanks guys!
MS
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What is with all the trashing on 6.0 diesels I own a 06 f250 with the 6.0 and love it, I will agree the 03 was a bad year for them being new and all but the 06 model has fewest warranty claims than any powerstroke. I have owned a 98 dodge Cummings and will never own a dodge again. That is my opinion we all have one, I guess I get sick of people talking trash about a truck that they don't own or drive. They just hear stuff and believe it all to be true :twocents: thanks for letting me vent.
People talk trash,because the 6.0 was a POS. There is no debating that. The 6.0 broke a decades long partnership between International and Ford.
You sure you owned a Dodge? If you did,you should know,theres no "g" at the end of Cummins.
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I just have be in two 6.0 fords that blow the head gasket while towing. They one blow pulling a jet boat and the truck only had 25k miles on it and the other pulling a 4 place up Stevens Pass. So I have a bad taste for every engine after the 7.3. last place i worked we had 4 7.3 ranging from 160k to 423k and they ran for the most part all the time. ;)
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What is with all the trashing on 6.0 diesels I own a 06 f250 with the 6.0 and love it, I will agree the 03 was a bad year for them being new and all but the 06 model has fewest warranty claims than any powerstroke. I have owned a 98 dodge Cummings and will never own a dodge again. That is my opinion we all have one, I guess I get sick of people talking trash about a truck that they don't own or drive. They just hear stuff and believe it all to be true :twocents: thanks for letting me vent.
People talk trash,because the 6.0 was a POS. There is no debating that. The 6.0 broke a decades long partnership between International and Ford.
You sure you owned a Dodge? If you did,you should know,theres no "g" at the end of Cummins.
Yes I am sure I owned a dodge, I dumped more money in to that truck then I care to admit. Maybe you should be the spell check instead of the crappy one the site offers.
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I have a few questions for you Ford 7.3 gurus. Mine is a 2003 F-350 7.3L.
At what temps should I plug the engine heater in overnight?
At colder temps (20 degrees or less) it starts hard if I forget to plug in. I may have to turn the key 4-5 times to warm the glow plugs, does this mean problems are brewing?
How long should the engine idle on freezing mornings before taking off?
How do I recognize if injectors are getting bad or if fuel pump is getting weak?
Thanks In Advance
Dale
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glad you asked Bearpaw. I have the exact same questions...
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not that i am a pro but...i ALWAYS plug my diesel in below freezing to keep it warm and oil will flow easier not that it wont start, and it gives the cab instant heat. if you have to cycle the plugs that often, yes i believe they are dying. if you change them buy the uber expensive valve cover gaskets. they are called "reusable" but they contain the wiring for the injectors in em and i just wouldnt take the chance on having to go back in
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What is with all the trashing on 6.0 diesels I own a 06 f250 with the 6.0 and love it, I will agree the 03 was a bad year for them being new and all but the 06 model has fewest warranty claims than any powerstroke. I have owned a 98 dodge Cummings and will never own a dodge again. That is my opinion we all have one, I guess I get sick of people talking trash about a truck that they don't own or drive. They just hear stuff and believe it all to be true :twocents: thanks for letting me vent.
People talk trash,because the 6.0 was a POS. There is no debating that. The 6.0 broke a decades long partnership between International and Ford.
You sure you owned a Dodge? If you did,you should know,theres no "g" at the end of Cummins.
Yes I am sure I owned a dodge, I dumped more money in to that truck then I care to admit. Maybe you should be the spell check instead of the crappy one the site offers.
The site's spell checker is not smart enough to know you were talking about "Cummins". Cummings is not spelled incorrectly...it's just not correct for the application. Spell check doesn't know that, but if Rick wants the job, he can have it too...I don't want to steal his thunder.
;)
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Thanks Jimdk8 for the info, can anyone else elaborate on these questions?
1. At what temps should I plug the engine heater in overnight?
2. At colder temps (20 degrees or less) it starts hard if I forget to plug in. I may have to turn the key 4-5 times to warm the glow plugs, does this mean problems are brewing?
3. How long should the engine idle on freezing mornings before taking off?
4. How do I recognize if injectors are getting bad or if fuel pump is getting weak?
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Not to thread jack, but since mileage has been a topic here I'll go ahead. I finished off my emissions delete this evening and I'm happy to report 15.2 mpg's on my short, up and down, stop and go 7 mile drive home from from work tonight. :IBCOOL: I should be golden on long hauls towing going camping or fishing. Oh, and for you gas lovers! The only ones I respect when I blast by em towing up vantage hill are the guys with the Chev 8.1's otherwise move over and enjoy my exhaust :chuckle: :chuckle:
MS
Thats what I have in my Chevy! The 8.1 with the Allison..I LOVE it!
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Bearpaw, what year and how many miles does you rig have on it? my money would be on the glow plug controller. Its brown and theres two mounted next to each other. one for the glowplugs and one for the air intake heater. With the key off one big post on each solenoid should be hot. with the key turned on it should latch and send power to the oppistie large post. if it doesn't you need a glow plug controller. Also your fuel injection runs off oil pressure, this is where syn oil excels in the winter months. Plug your coolant heater in anytime below freezing just to aid heat out of the vents quicker and residual heat to the block. Keep in mind battery blanket heaters if the temp stays cold. Nothing will start block heater plugged in and synthetic oil if the batteries are dead and frozen. Good luck!-VAN
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if it is a ford no matter what you do after 30 degrees they start hard if it is a cummins i normally start plugging my truck in around the teens. I really forget about half the time so like today, i didn't plug it in and it is 9 out side let it glow and it fires right up. I am not ford bashing either. I am just stating that they fire like crap in the cold. The owner manual says to wait ten sec after starting to start moving. I let my truck ideal a couple minutes be for i start moving just to make sure everything has a little heat in it. Hard starts are a sign of pump issues in the 24v cummins. If you have to glow 5 or 6 time seems like pump having issues or your grid heater in the intake. Grid heater is like a glow plugs for the cummins.It super heat the air and shot it into the engine when the engine turns over.
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You know, that one issue I never had with my old 6.9. It always fired up, no matter what the temp. I too would forget to plug it in and it always started. It sounded like parts and pieces were gonna begin flying out from under the hood, but was fine once it warmed up!