Post by: hillbillyhunting on January 04, 2011, 06:55:16 PM
Post by: hughjorgan on January 04, 2011, 06:57:12 PM
Post by: Wa hunter on January 04, 2011, 07:12:00 PM
What is your approx location?
Post by: hillbillyhunting on January 04, 2011, 07:32:23 PM
Post by: Wa hunter on January 04, 2011, 08:01:27 PM
Post by: patton1 on January 04, 2011, 08:11:49 PM
Post by: grousetracker on January 04, 2011, 09:22:39 PM
Post by: Everett on January 04, 2011, 09:23:03 PM
Post by: DBHAWTHORNE on January 05, 2011, 01:18:15 AM
Ok..in all seriousness... get what you can afford and don't worry about much else. The cheapest, crappiest bow will do just fine. Whatever you do find a good archery pro to help you before buying the bow. Nothing sucks more than getting set-up with the wrong equipment.
Post by: hillbillyhunting on January 05, 2011, 08:59:07 PM
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on January 05, 2011, 09:28:05 PM
Second - if your serious about buying used, do your best to enlist the service of a knowledgable friend or experienced person to take a look at the bow prior to your purchase. Limbs can weaken with time, strings and cable stretch, and servings wear. cam lean and tuning issues may be huge. All of that takes money to fix and could cut into what you think your saving.
Third- As has been said, if your going to buy new shoot as many as you can in the same price range prior to purchase. I personally dont see a compelling reason to shoot a bunch of new models if your pretty set on buying used. You already are limiting your selection being a lefty, then to try to factor in a certain brand and model, ( and you may not have even shot that model instore, since they usually only carry bows that are last year models or newer. ) it can be done, but may be a daunting task.
Theres a ton of info out there and some great shops as well, I bought my first bow on consignment from a pro shop and still have it today, its outdated but still a shooter. Good luck and Feel free to PM with questions.
Post by: bearpaw on January 05, 2011, 09:45:13 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hoyt-ZR200-LH-Compond-Bow-Soft-Case-/300511853730?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7e6fca2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Hoyt-ZR200-LH-Compond-Bow-Soft-Case-/300511853730?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7e6fca2)
Post by: DBHAWTHORNE on January 05, 2011, 09:46:27 PM
To answer a couple of your question... YES the condition of BOTH limbs and strings and cables is important. Especially if buying used. Heres my :twocents: Go to a pro shop and get fitted first and foremost along with figuring out a comfortable poundage. I have heard mixed reviews on cabelas service, but have no firsthand experience with their shop.:yeah:
Second - if your serious about buying used, do your best to enlist the service of a knowledgable friend or experienced person to take a look at the bow prior to your purchase. Limbs can weaken with time, strings and cable stretch, and servings wear. cam lean and tuning issues may be huge. All of that takes money to fix and could cut into what you think your saving.
Third- As has been said, if your going to buy new shoot as many as you can in the same price range prior to purchase. I personally dont see a compelling reason to shoot a bunch of new models if your pretty set on buying used. You already are limiting your selection being a lefty, then to try to factor in a certain brand and model, ( and you may not have even shot that model instore, since they usually only carry bows that are last year models or newer. ) it can be done, but may be a daunting task.
Theres a ton of info out there and some great shops as well, I bought my first bow on consignment from a pro shop and still have it today, its outdated but still a shooter. Good luck and Feel free to PM with questions.
I would definitely be careful purchasing used bows. You can get a good deal but if the bow is a few years old you can likely get a current low end model that has the same bells and whistles as the older bow for about the same price. It all comes down to preference when you shoot it but again the most important thing is being set up right the first time. Just about any bow will do the job you want it to do just fine. You just have to do your part and make sure you are set up correctly and then practice, practice, practice.
Post by: bearpaw on January 05, 2011, 09:59:05 PM
Post by: gjbruny on January 06, 2011, 08:38:08 PM
first off, do you want to shoot with a release or fingers? if fingers, i'd not shoot anything under 40" ATA. jmo
look for something that has as little reflex (the riser comes back toward the string in the grip area) as possible...... the more reflexed it is, the more you will have to be shooting with perfect or near perfect form to stay consistently accurate..... i'd imagine that the first time you draw on an animal, your heart will be pounding so hard that you won't remember your name, much less be able to keep your form clean. try looking for something with a deflexed riser.... they don't hardly exist in the newest of compounds but they are definately on the used market.
let-off..... the lower the % of let-off (more weight at full draw), the more you can get away with form errors because you will not be able to torque the bow as easy..... if shooting fingers, you can also "get off the string" a little cleaner.
wheels are more forgiving than mild cams, mild cams are more forgiving than radical cams.
the longer the bow, the more stable it will be..... the more stable, the more forgiving it will be when you jack your form up a little in the heat of the moment.
most importantly...... don't get caught up in the speed game. about any 20 year old 50@28" compound can take any animal on the north american continent with ease. a wounded animal doesn't care how fast the arrow was going..... nor does the animal that had a perfectly placed arrow. hit the thicks spot on a bull elk's shoulder blade and many more times than not, it is game over...... even with the fastest bows.
consistent accuracy is the key here and as a new archer, you want as forgiving of a bow as possible...... and there is a BIG difference between the least forgiving and the most forgiving bows.
Post by: ribka on January 06, 2011, 08:56:20 PM
before you get scared off at the thought of buying a used bow, just know that some of the older used bows are much more forgiving to shoot and more times than not, they will be mechanically sound. just make sure you ask plenty of questions before you buy.
first off, do you want to shoot with a release or fingers? if fingers, i'd not shoot anything under 40" ATA. jmo
look for something that has as little reflex (the riser comes back toward the string in the grip area) as possible...... the more reflexed it is, the more you will have to be shooting with perfect or near perfect form to stay consistently accurate..... i'd imagine that the first time you draw on an animal, your heart will be pounding so hard that you will forget your name, much less be able to keep your form clean. try looking for something with a deflexed riser.... they don't hardly exist in the newest of compounds but they are definately on the used market.
let-off..... the lower the % of let-off (more weight at full draw), the more you can get away with form errors because you will not be able to torque the bow as easy..... if shooting fingers, you can also "get off the string" a little cleaner.
wheels are more forgiving than mild cams, mild cams are more forgiving than radical cams.
the longer the bow, the more stable it will be..... the more stable, the more forgiving it will be when you jack your form up a little in the heat of the moment.
most importantly...... don't get caught up in the speed game. about any 20 year old 50@28" compound can take any animal on the north american continent with ease. a wounded animal doesn't care how fast the arrow was going..... nor does the animal that had a perfectly placed arrow. hit the thicks spot on a bull elk's shoulder blade and many more times than not, it is game over...... even with the fastest bows.
consistent accuracy is the key here and as a new archer, you want as forgiving of a bow as possible...... and there is a BIG difference between the least forgiving and the most forgiving bows.
Good points!!
FPS is way over rated when it comes to hunting and archery. :twocents: Better to get a smooth ( wheel vs cam) longer forgiving bow.
Have killed many animals with a long bow that shot around 175 fps. Most were pass through shots too.
Many good used bows out there for under $200
Don't buy into the hype that you have to shoot 300 fps plus and over 50 yds. Spend more time practicing in real hunting type conditions once you are proficient. Practice shooting sitting down, kneeling, behind tree, at unknown yardages. Spend time in the woods practicing getting close to game in the off season. Archery is a completely different game mentally than modern firearms hunting and takes more commitment but you will end up being a much better hunter :twocents:
Post by: Sneaky on January 06, 2011, 09:13:05 PM
Post by: sakoshooter on January 07, 2011, 02:26:22 PM
Don't listen to these Hoyt guys..you need a Mathews. :chuckle:
Ok..in all seriousness... get what you can afford and don't worry about much else. The cheapest, crappiest bow will do just fine. Whatever you do find a good archery pro to help you before buying the bow. Nothing sucks more than getting set-up with the wrong equipment.
I'll second this. Getting off on the right track when you're not familar to the equipment is the best way to go. Any bow 40#s and up will kill animals. Learning the correct form and practicing is what's gonna get it done.
I killed two whitetails with a 36# recurve when I was younger in WI.
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on January 07, 2011, 02:52:04 PM
Post by: hillbillyhunting on January 07, 2011, 06:39:45 PM