Post by: dscubame on January 30, 2011, 08:56:01 PM
Post by: Whitelightning on January 30, 2011, 09:10:36 PM
This is the forward mount I did not color the acraglas on this one.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hunt101.com%2Fdata%2F500%2Fmedium%2F34285M97_bedding_completed_004.jpg&hash=555cf53106267bd04940971a1563d0e2c68b7ec2)
The rear was a little tricky had to make a wall for the forward portion of the inlet, this is why I really like the gel it makes things like this easy.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hunt101.com%2Fdata%2F500%2Fmedium%2F34285M97_bedding_rear_002.jpg&hash=8b8fb1794061260513ad142cda78171946407ea4)
Post by: Jamieb on January 30, 2011, 10:50:35 PM
One layer of electrical tape on the sides and bottom of lug two on the front.
Use plenty of release agent. I use putty as a dam and everything else is in the acraglass kit.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv376%2Felkhunter%2FIMG_0035.jpg&hash=0cc3fcd4d74f28a645e6afb172c50160e47b79e9)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv376%2Felkhunter%2FIMG_0047.jpg&hash=6a78c02a75399c498dec50e6133d293192049ec4)
I bed and lighten the trigger on every new rifle before I mount a scope.
Post by: dscubame on January 31, 2011, 08:43:11 AM
Post by: jaymark6655 on January 31, 2011, 08:50:22 AM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on January 31, 2011, 09:00:25 AM
I've posted it before, so you could search for previous posts for glass and pillar bedding.
http://www.scorehi.com/pillar%20installation.htm (http://www.scorehi.com/pillar%20installation.htm)
-Seve
Post by: Jason on January 31, 2011, 09:18:24 AM
This was my first time bedding an action, at first I was really nervous, but it was really easy.
Post by: high country on January 31, 2011, 10:08:53 AM
Post by: huntandjeep on January 31, 2011, 08:03:36 PM
Post by: Whitelightning on January 31, 2011, 08:16:02 PM
Can you glass bed synthetic stocks and hogue stocks or just wood
I have bedded several Bell&Carlson composite stocks, just clean it and ruff it up with some 80gr paper.
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on January 31, 2011, 08:16:55 PM
-Steve
Post by: high country on January 31, 2011, 08:45:25 PM
Post by: Craig on January 31, 2011, 09:30:25 PM
Post by: Jamieb on January 31, 2011, 10:01:09 PM
Post by: huntandjeep on February 01, 2011, 07:21:30 PM
Post by: Jamieb on February 01, 2011, 08:35:50 PM
Post by: Jamieb on February 01, 2011, 08:41:41 PM
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html (http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html)
Post by: Schwag173 on February 02, 2011, 12:21:57 AM
Post by: huntandjeep on February 02, 2011, 07:48:18 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on February 03, 2011, 10:22:23 AM
Whats the difference between glass bedding and full length pillar bedded. The Hogue on my 7mm is full length pillar bedded .
I think you've got a play on words for two different processes.
If you'll look at the link in my previous post, (photo below), The pillars are actually sleaves for the action/floorplate mounting screws that go through the stock.
Full length glass bedding is something most shooters don't do anymore. There was a belief long ago that if you glass bedded the action and the stock for the full length of the stock, any portion of the barrel out that far, that a more rigid mating of action/barrel/stock would lead to better acuracy. It's been proven in most cases that a free floated barrel, with only the action and a small portion of the area just forward of the chamber/aft end of the barrel, will get more consistent accuracy allowing the barrel to flex as it gets warmer without any pressure from the stock that also flexes with temperature. Especially wood stocks when they get cold. You don't want any pressure on the barrel 'in most scenarios'.
To combine Pillar bedding with glass bedding of the action and free-floating the barrel for the length of the stock fore-end has become the standard for anyone trying to get the most uniform and consistent fit that leads to repeatable accuracy. The objective is to create a very tight fit of the action within the stock, and with the pillars, (usually metal/alloy), to allow for repeatable torque-down of the action mounting screws that does not compress the stock material. For best results, the pillars should be encased/interferance fit with the bedding material that is bonded with the stock. The length of the pillars should be trimmed to the breadth of the action surfaces when mounted in the stock. The length of the screws should be about 10% shorter to allow for screw stretch as they are torqued down. You don't want the screws to bottom out.
Edit; Sorry, there is reference to 'full length pillar bedded', where as, for 'partial length pillar bedded', some smiths would only install partial lengh inserts in the hole of the stock where the screws go through. Full length, would be tubes that touch both the action and floor plate.
-Steve
Post by: huntandjeep on February 03, 2011, 07:51:05 PM