Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: jrebel on February 04, 2011, 06:15:04 PM
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Ok....so if this is not funny I don't know what is. I paid off my 2006 dodge 2500 diesel today around 1300 hours :IBCOOL: , at approx. 1700 hours I get a phone call from my wife saying the dodge won't start :yike:. Yup, that's right it is deader than dead. I had to tow it home with my jeep wrangler :chuckle: :chuckle:. I wish I had a picute.
Now this is where I need your help. It has brand new batteries (two months ago). It ran fine, no noises, dummy lights, etc. Oil is full all looks good. When you turn the key on the power comes on and all the guages work. When you turn the key over, in an attempt to start it, it does nothing. No noises, no clicking, no nothing....well except the radio turns off when you turn the key over. Nothing else just the radio. When towing it home I had no power steering and the breaks were stiffer than a board, even with the key in the accessory position. Usually that is not the case.
Where should I start with trouble shooting this problem? Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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You should start with testing your batteries and checking all of their connections to make sure they are clean and tight.
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With power steering and power brakes the vehical needs to be running to get them working, that is why the power steering pump is ran on a belt....As FC said, check your connections at the battery first to make sure they aare tight, then test the battery to make sure it has full cranking voltage( under a load) , not just stationary voltage....
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This might be a dumb question but do you have remote start?
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The batter terminals are clean and shiny....the conections are tight. I tried to jump start it with another truck and nothing. I would think that while trying to jump start it with another rig it would have done something...but no. My wife had just drove it about 30 miles, parked it and turned it off, ten minutes later tried to start it and nothing.
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No, no remote for me. I have to walk out in the cold to start mine. It is a manual transmission if that matters?
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The batter terminals are clean and shiny....the conections are tight.
Did you actually test the batteries and check all the connections? You can check your clutch switch for continuity when actuated but honestly if you have to ask what to do in a no-crank diag you would probably be better off taking it to a shop.
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Is it throwing any codes? do you know how to check that? With the key in the off position, turn the key on and off 3x leave it on the on position the 3rd time. the code will read where the odometer is. it will say P---- something along those lines. get the code let me know. Also go to the cumminsturboregistry.com lots of help there....
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Man I don't know with these new trucks but give it a few and I'm sure jackelope will chime in, he seems to always have some good info ;)
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Yeah i'm on my 3rd Dodge diesel.... Try to get the code.. And I think jackelope works at a dodge dealership?
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Jrebel ,although I have Ford :IBCOOL: I would try to disconnect the batteries and reconnect . Have you installed the batts yourself ? if so have you used computer saver so you don't loose your onboard computer settings ? My friend had Dodge and had similar problem (not saying Ford doesn't :rolleyes:) I would check online forums for similar problems - there is lot of good folks out there which had the same thing happen and they know the solution .It helped me twice with Fords camshaft positioning sensor and not being able to get it from 4x4 . Good luck ...
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Malard man
I will do that right now...be back in a few.
FC
If I were a diesle mechanic I would have never started this post. Thanks for being so blunt in your last post....I appreciat your forwardness. Oh yeah and you are correct, If I can't solve the problem with a little help from friends, then it will end up at the mechanic. Hey Thanks Again....
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Sounds to me like it is your nuetral start switch. This will cause this to happen if it fails. It works the same way if you fail to push in the clutch wen tring to start. With this failed it does not allow you to crank the engine and will react the same. There should be a switch off the clutch pedal under the dash. You should be able to test it with a meter. All items you speak of direct me to think this is the issue. Good luck.
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Mallar Man
Turned the switch on and off three times......odometer went to _ _ _ _ _ _ _ after a few seconds it said -done-. It did not display any codes. Maybe it means the truck is DONE..... :chuckle: :chuckle:
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No when it's done it will have a count down clock :chuckle: :chuckle: check the web site that mallardman stated and then give jackelpoe a few maybe message him :hello: Wish I could help I know how you feel right now :bash: :bash:
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thats really weird try it again I don't think it's ur neutral safety switch, or Batts whats the volt gauge say? you can un-hook ur batts and reconect them that will clear the ecu and pcu, then maybe try to start it but before you start it shift through the gears just to see if it will trip the neu safety sw. go to the website I told u about post a thread you will get a anwser in minutes..... ur not having a commen problem.
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Chuck Norris
You really are my hero. I still watch Texas Range re-runs :chuckle: :chuckle:. Crawled under the dash and checked out the plunger switch attached to my clutch pedal. Didn't know really what to look for but notice the plunger was stiff and not moving freely with the clutch pedal. I moved plunger in and out and twisted a few times. It made a loud "click" and then started moving freely. I thought oops, if that wasn't the problem it now is. Got out from my contorted position and tried to start it....Low and behold it started. :chuckle: :chuckle: Thank you everyone for the sugjestions.
FC
Again...a special thanks to you!! Had I listened to your wonderful advise before admitting to everyone on this board that I was not a mechanic, I would have:
1. Not embarrased myself. :'( :'(
2. Would have incurred at least a 500 dollar bill from a mechanic.
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Why would that be a $500 bill? Any good tech would have had that figured out in 15 minutes at most. Having seen many people change all kinds of parts or dig into their truck's electrical system with probes and just generally destroy things with the best of intentions, I advise non-mechanic types pretty quickly to take it to a pro. The reasoning is simple, I have had to charge people thousands of dollars to repair their attempted diagnosis or repair.
FWIW if the switch is unstuck you can hose it out with some electrical contact cleaner and put a bit of white grease on the plunger. I wonder who it was that told you to have a look at that switch in the first place?
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Chuck Norris
You really are my hero. I still watch Texas Range re-runs :chuckle: :chuckle:. Crawled under the dash and checked out the plunger switch attached to my clutch pedal. Didn't know really what to look for but notice the plunger was stiff and not moving freely with the clutch pedal. I moved plunger in and out and twisted a few times. It made a loud "click" and then started moving freely. I thought oops, if that wasn't the problem it now is. Got out from my contorted position and tried to start it....Low and behold it started. :chuckle: :chuckle: Thank you everyone for the sugjestions.
FC
Again...a special thanks to you!! Had I listened to your wonderful advise before admitting to everyone on this board that I was not a mechanic, I would have:
1. Not embarrased myself. :'( :'(
2. Would have incurred at least a 500 dollar bill from a mechanic.
Not funny But that is really funny! Just think it could have happened in a worse place! Break out the WD-40