Hunting Washington Forum

Other Hunting => Waterfowl => Topic started by: upwind on February 04, 2011, 07:19:29 PM

Title: Reloading
Post by: upwind on February 04, 2011, 07:19:29 PM
How many of you guys reload ?And how much do you think it cost you per box. thanks
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: SquirrelHunter on February 04, 2011, 07:23:25 PM
I reload a .338 winmag and it costs me about 1.00-1.20 a round. So it costs 20.00-24.00 a box for me to relaod
200gr silver ballistic tip
66.3gr hunter powder
winchester nickel plated brass
cci magnum primers
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: upwind on February 04, 2011, 07:28:20 PM
OOPS i should of said for waterfowl hunting. steel shot
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: C-Money on February 04, 2011, 07:32:48 PM
I don't think its worth it to reload for waterfowl. I just use the cheap stuff at any sporting goods store. Definite advantages to reloading rifle/pistol ammo.
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: h2ofowlr on February 04, 2011, 08:35:19 PM
I would reload my waterfowl loads if they still used real brass.  I don't bother as the hulls start to rust to damn fast then they end up splitting.
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: sakoshooter on February 05, 2011, 11:57:09 PM
I've reloaded quite a few different duck loads for a few years now. My curiosity got the best of me when I read about 1800fps loads a few years ago. I've actually worked up a load to just under 2000fps with 3/4oz of steel but it doesn't pattern worth a hoot. I changed my Mec reloader over to steel and kept my Ponsess for my clay target loads. I still load steel shot loads but I keep them right at 1500fps and they pattern 90 - 95% in my Patternmaster choke in my SBEII and that's #4 shot. Larger shot patterns even tighter. I like tight patterns. If I'm off a little on my shot, I missed. If I'm on, there's no question.
I'm not really sure if there is any cost savings because I don't care what the cheapest shells cost. I shoot only what patterns the best. There are many these days. Didn't used to be that way especially when steel shot first became mandatory. I'm guessing I can load a box of premium duck loads for about $10 but that's after getting a reloader all set up. If you have to purchase a reloader etc to get started, there'd be no cost savings. If you've got a loader, equip it with a steel shot reloading conversion kit. You can still load lead shot thru it but not steel thru a loader set up for lead. I also prefer a 'universal charge bar' for steel shot. Charges can be tweeked to fit with one.
http://www.bucksrunsports.com/ (http://www.bucksrunsports.com/)
http://www.reloadingspecialtiesinc.com/Reloading_Specialties_Inc/Reloading_Specialties.html (http://www.reloadingspecialtiesinc.com/Reloading_Specialties_Inc/Reloading_Specialties.html)
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/ (http://www.ballisticproducts.com/)
http://www.precisionreloading.com/ (http://www.precisionreloading.com/)
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: boots on February 06, 2011, 08:57:07 AM
I reload lead for clays etc but not for my steel loads for waterfowl
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: fishermanjoe on February 08, 2011, 02:49:06 PM
I've reloaded quite a few different duck loads for a few years now. My curiosity got the best of me when I read about 1800fps loads a few years ago. I've actually worked up a load to just under 2000fps with 3/4oz of steel but it doesn't pattern worth a hoot. I changed my Mec reloader over to steel and kept my Ponsess for my clay target loads. I still load steel shot loads but I keep them right at 1500fps and they pattern 90 - 95% in my Patternmaster choke in my SBEII and that's #4 shot. Larger shot patterns even tighter. I like tight patterns. If I'm off a little on my shot, I missed. If I'm on, there's no question.
I'm not really sure if there is any cost savings because I don't care what the cheapest shells cost. I shoot only what patterns the best. There are many these days. Didn't used to be that way especially when steel shot first became mandatory. I'm guessing I can load a box of premium duck loads for about $10 but that's after getting a reloader all set up. If you have to purchase a reloader etc to get started, there'd be no cost savings. If you've got a loader, equip it with a steel shot reloading conversion kit. You can still load lead shot thru it but not steel thru a loader set up for lead. I also prefer a 'universal charge bar' for steel shot. Charges can be tweeked to fit with one.
http://www.bucksrunsports.com/ (http://www.bucksrunsports.com/)
http://www.reloadingspecialtiesinc.com/Reloading_Specialties_Inc/Reloading_Specialties.html (http://www.reloadingspecialtiesinc.com/Reloading_Specialties_Inc/Reloading_Specialties.html)
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/ (http://www.ballisticproducts.com/)
http://www.precisionreloading.com/ (http://www.precisionreloading.com/)


What huls (sp*) do you use? I know AA's are the preferred for target shooting, so whats the waterfowl equivalent?
Title: Re: Reloading
Post by: sakoshooter on February 10, 2011, 01:53:08 PM
Federal Gold Medal and 3" Federal steel shot hulls have worked well for me. They're a straight wall hull whereas AA's are compression formed hulls and are tapered. I mainly use the SAM 1 wad. Steel shot wads have no shock absorbancy to them and steel shot does not compress so everything's gotta fit just right. That's one of the reasons I like the Universal Charge Bar. I can slightly tweak a shot or powder charge to work perfectly with a given hull/load.
Not sure what kind of primer Kent uses but the primer pocket is too large to hold a new primer well when I tried reloading them and Winchester hulls collapse too easily when crimped. Remington hulls from my Hevi-shot shells have worked good but I don't have that many.
I'll be loading #2s from now on. I started out with #4s but hate their performance on ducks when they're not flying close. 2s work all the time.
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