Post by: coyote72 on February 12, 2011, 09:19:23 PM
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on February 12, 2011, 11:01:40 PM
get a partner, practice drawing to your anchor point several times, then come to full draw and have partner (standing alongside) mark the arrow where it clears the bow, I (my own personal) add 1/2".
Now comes the fun part.......
Add 3-4 lbs of draw weight per inch over 28", or subtract for under.
What Type of arrow will you be using ? (Wood, Alum., Graphite) ?
What weight of a broadhead are you going to be using ?
heavier Bh's decrease spine, longer arrows also decrease spine, so if your draw length is long, (over 28") and you plan on using heavy (over 125gr.) BH's, consult a chart for Aluminum or graphite, and go heavier (or lighter)
Then only get 6 arrows of a certain spine, and shoot them , different combinations work different, paper tuning your bow, after you see how they fly will also make a big difference.
If your arrows wag left and right that is usually a pretty good indication of improper spine - usually too little spine.
If you are getting pretty good flight but your arrows are shooting to the left that it usually and indication of too much spine.
As far as what they should weigh..... You really are pretty much limited to material+length+Broadhead, But in my opinion, heavier the better, the arrow will absorb more from the bow, making it quieter, and improve penetration (increased momentum)
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on February 12, 2011, 11:03:26 PM
Post by: coyote72 on February 12, 2011, 11:33:34 PM
P.S.: Since I'm shooting standard recurve you wouldn't happen to know of any quivers that would mount to my bow?
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on February 12, 2011, 11:52:45 PM
It is pretty impressive to see, check on you-tube.
This flex needs to be a specific amount and stay consistent among all the arrows in order to carry a group. If the arrow flexes too much it becomes exceptionally critical. The smallest mistake made by the arrow increases substantially if the arrow is too weak.
If the arrow is too stiff it is not as critical, but does not give the best possible grouping. Thus it is far better for the arrow to be too stiff than too weak. That is why you may note that some companies fudge on the size arrow recommended towards the stiff side. This is far better than on the weak side. Since the arrow flexes upon being launched, you would want it to flex the same.
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on February 13, 2011, 12:13:55 AM
Make sure you put it on before you do anything else, if that is what you plan on using.
They have an impact on how your bow behaves.
As far as interchanging field-tips for BH's..........
That was actually the reason for screw-in inserts, so Aluminum and Graphite are pretty much what you are stuck with...
But I recommend not doing that when you are hunting with a recurve.
It is fine to work on form and accuracy with field tips, but when it comes to hunting......
If you have a dozen arrows and half have field tips, and half have Bh's, you can practice with field tips, but you will also want to practice with the Bh's.
Practicing with what you are actually going to be hunting with, is very important.
no matter what anyone tells you, they fly different (why some want expandables)
Also if you switch when you are going hunting, you might have some unseen damage (bends) in your "practice" arrows that can affect arrow flight, and hurt penetration.
I practice with my bh's and resharpen them before I go hunting (sometimes even give them a touch-up in the field)
Also, you will probably lose, or ruin at least a dozen arrows before you are ready to hunt.
What most of my friends do is, buy a quality set of arrows for hunting, and throw as many "cheap" arrows at stumps, 3D shoots, general practice, whatever.
then practice on a BH target with their hunting arrows.