Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Deer Hunting => Topic started by: steeleywhopper on May 16, 2008, 03:10:35 AM
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Just wondering what sort of Mountain Bike I should be looking for to get behind those locked gates? I am new to the mountain bike scene so I could really use some place to start for a quality mid range bike that wont break the bank or my arse.
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I have several mountain bikes. I prefer the Giant brand. Trek is good and their are many more. I have special skewers in my back wheels to pull a Bob trailer with. Cheap is not always best, they don't allow the quickest adjustments or tire changes, seat height, etc. Anyway, that's my opinion
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I'd recommend one that does not have suspension for expediency and efficiency.
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I have a nice mountian bike a Diamond back, but for hunting I went and got a 100 dollar bike, check pawn shops and stuff. Hunting on one just beats the crap out of them, tieing bears and deer on top, makes them ugly, while hunting you dont go fast or anything that you need a good bike for. Just get one you dont mind ruining!! LOL
Carl
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Also, pick up a scabbard and tie it on to the front of the bike, just as you would on a horse .......for when you're riding around. Then I have packs on either side of my rear tires in the back for general gear, etc.
Like Bonfire mentions, something on the cheaper side is best because you'll probably be beating it up.
Joes has some decent bikes in the 200 - 300 range that would be perfect....and wont break the bank. I also got my rack bags there.
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I have a Mongoose Blackcomb for sale. $200 with upgraded "soft" seat and better bars and grips.
New they are $279, but with the upgrades it would push over the $300 mark. Mine has been ridden once and been hanging in garage ever since. It is a good alternative to the more expensive ones like mentioned above. Full suspension and dual disc brakes make a big difference in comfort.
Bought it thinking I would use it more, but since buying property in Colville, I never use it.
Let me know if you would be interested. Going on Craigslist sometime soon.
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Check the pawnshops. There are some really good deals. Stick w/ known brands that have quality (shimino, etc) components. I would highly suggest front suspension. Depending on where you're riding, it will make your descent much safer, faster, and comfortable. Also get some of the tube protectors that line the inside of your tires.... they act as an extra barrier to punctures. 250$ should get you more than enough bike. I got a really nice Giant (sold for about 600 new) for 185 3 years ago.
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I have several mountain bikes. I prefer the Giant brand. Trek is good and their are many more. I have special skewers in my back wheels to pull a Bob trailer with. Cheap is not always best, they don't allow the quickest adjustments or tire changes, seat height, etc. Anyway, that's my opinion
I won't go cheap again. I picked up a couple of pawn shop bikes for some friends. they didn't last a week. My Giants have disk breaks comfortable seats, everything is easly adjustable, and they will both pull a trailer. And they are still in like new shape because they are taken ocare of. Also you want a wider high flotation tire on the front if you can. BMX style narrow on the back for traction wider on the front for handling. I know you'll do what ever you want but you ask for help, take it or leave it.
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Disc breaks would be a good idea if you are trucking a load. Otherwise if you're not then they are probably superfluous.
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I found the disc brakes to be great when it is wet. Otherwise they are pretty much not worth the added expense, but hey, what do I know. I am too fat and lazy to have even ridden it more than once or twice....
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i just sent my trek in to the bike shop for a going over and tune up to get ready for riding and hunting.
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Giant for me
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I have a Specialized I packed a large buck out with last year. Great mid-range bike, I paid around $375.00. Do ask about load rating's if your packing gear, etc. for hunting on the bike, otherwise you may be in for a long hike back to the gate.
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I'd buy a used bike if I was in the market. There are tons of them on Craigslist every day. Just don't get ghetto stuff. Fat tires, strong rims and frame should work just fine. I would not invest more than 200 bucks on a bike for hunting.
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i paid 400 for my trek about 7-8 years ago. on the first day i had it i taco'd the back wheel. it got a $180 back wheel put on it about 24 hours after i bought it to support my large self.
so far so good.
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I bought a used Specialized Hard Rock out of the paper for $450. I've used it in several adventure races and 3 hunting seasons. The thing is basically bullet proof. Disc brakes are good for loads, wet, noise, and longevity; this makes them a decent choice for hunting. Twist-shift is good for hunting but bad for maintenance; the click-shift on my bike has shifted on me in the brush a time or two, but I will live with it to get the positive shifting since mountain riding demands a ton of shifting. You get what you pay for with gears and deraileurs. Large pedals are a must with hunting boots.
One good cheap addition to any bike is the kevlar tube liners and green goo inside the tubes. You'll go a ton of hard miles before you ever puncture a tire with that setup.
Rear suspension is a good thing if you're planning on riding logging roads, but make sure to get a tough-designed one if you plan on riding 1/2 of an elk out. You're better off pulling a game cart/trailer if you're elk hunting on roads. Riding trails doesn't allow trailers, so maybe the solid rear suspension would be better there.
A pack that holds your bow securely on the back is a great thing. I used a Tarantula sling once and had my bow do 5 or 6 cartwheels down a gravel road opening day of elk season. A sleeve that goes over your bow and arrows in the quiver is a good thing; those buggers will grab brush like nobody's business on a logging road, skid trail or trail.
Mountain bikes are a great way to get as far back in as most horseback hunters go, and that darn bike hasn't consumed one bale of hay since I bought it!
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I'd stear away from suspension. I have logged some seasons with more than 500 miles on my mountain bike and I would never use suspension when hauling loads. In fact the only reason I have a bicycle with suspension is so that I can keep up with my friends when on the mountain biking trails. You'd certainly die a horrible death on some of them without it at break neck speed. For hunting I would call it too much because it will require to work more. However it can be negated to some degree by stiffening the suspension.
I would agree with the big pedals remark 100%
I would recommend staying away from the green goo crap since in the long term can damage your rims. Changing a tire is not too hard. The kevlar liners would probably a better alternative.
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I would like to thank everyone for their input. I guess It's time to start shopping.
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I use a Trek 6000 mountain bike
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2008/mountain_hardtail/6_series/6000/
After my first time hunting with it carrying all my gear and heavy clothes the first thing I did when I got home was get rid of the hard wedge maker seat and buy a wide butt gel seat. Then I bought fenders. You get pretty nasty riding on a wet dirt road for any length of time.
This made riding under heavy load more tolerable.
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I found that weight is a issue also whaen choosing a mountain bike. I tend to grab my wifes bike over mine just because of the weight differance.
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From the sounds of it, a $300-400 bike would fit the bill fine...stay away from a "department store" bike (target, walmart, etc). Go for a specialed, giant, or trek given the price range you're looking for.
With most companies, the basic product lines go the same. The cheapest of the series has a good frame, but lower quality components. As price increases, you get the same frame but better quality parts. The key is to find enough to suit you well, and nothing you don't need.
Don't try and get a ton of features packed into an entry level bike. $300-400 bikes with full suspension or disk brakes usually have shoddy components, little adjustability, and just aren't durable. For this price range, stick with the basic hard-tail/rim brakes....
Front suspension is a must (also referred to as a hard-tail).
A quality FULL suspension bike will cost at least $700. Anything less is heavy and in-efficient. You lose a lot of energy from each pedal stroke through the bobbing suspension...less torque to the ground! A hard tail won't wear you out nearly as fast on a hill or long ride.
Disc brakes are nice in the muddy/wet weather, but aren't that great otherwise.
If you damage a rotor while you're out, you're screwed unless you carry tools. At least with rim-brakes you can loosen the cable or unhood the brakes and continue to ride (no tools necessary).
Also, in dry conditions a rim brake will out-perform a disc brake every time. Easier to modulate as well. A disc brake also puts more stress on your wheels. The key is good pads--the brake pads that come on most bikes (stock) are terrible, and will be noisy. Get a quality set for another $20-30 and you're good to go. Most bike shops will haggle the price--so haggle GOOD pads into the deal.
The "good" disk brakes don't come on bikes under the $600 mark. The combination of cheap wheels and cheap disk brakes is a bad one...If you want discs, stay clear of Tektros. At least the cheap hayes mechanicals are decent (and common on lower end bikes). Avids are the way to go for mechanicals, IMHO.
Otherwise, just look for the basic features you need.
Personally, I hate "twist-grip" shifters. The shifter is right where you need to grip during technical/demanding riding. "Rapid fire" shifters are the way to go, IMHO. Impossible to over shift, but still quick... and no bulky shifter taking up half your grip.
Inexpensive, quality, "Get you out there" bikes"
A trek 3700 wouldn't be a bad choice if $$$ is a concern--right about $300 new. Decent quality components and a great frame. The fork isn't great, but sufficient. The 4300 is a little nicer, for about $100 more.
The Specialized Hardrock sport wouldn't be bad, either. Strong frame, decent components. Again, the fork isn't great but sufficient. Also, ~$400.
Another good one for the price is the DiamondBack Response....at around $300 give or take. If you have a Joes Sporting goods (formerly GI Joes) nearby, they put these on special quite a bit. Stout bike for the $$$.
If you're willing to put the price up to the ~$500 mark or so, then the doors really open up. Any of the ones I listed above should treat you pretty well though, as I feel they are the best bikes on the market at their price level.
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One more thought....after you hunt a season with it you might need a little gear work done so you don't have to push your bike up every steep road you come to. It's going to depend on the bike, but it's something that helped a lot on my bike
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Some very good info in these threads, something else to think about, pushing a bike with a deer strapped down to me is easier (as long as you have the deer well balanced) then dragging a deer cart. Yes you can ride the deer down hill. And yes every little hill you came down is twice as big going back up, LOL. We have had some pretty good speed runs riding on top of muleys coming down NFD 100 RD to the gate above Pearigin lake. Cover your ears and were gloves while riding during modern rifle. It does not take much speed to feel like your ears and fingers are frozen and about to fall off once you get going you do not want to stop for nothing.
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Thanks for the info Bscman, this was exactly what I needed to hear.
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Giant all the way. I used to race downhill mnt bikes for Giant in the early 90's, so Im partial to them. Best built for the price
Anyone know where to find silencer for the free-wheel?
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I am in the market for a used bike right now. Any spokane guys interested in getting rid of one. I have looked at a couple on craigslist and looking at another this evening. But if someone on here had something worthwhile, I would listen.
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Here is mine. :rolleyes:
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.diytrade.com%2Fcdimg%2F555039%2F5620820%2F0%2F1207843251%2FLady_bikes_Old_style_City_bicycles.jpg&hash=1c3efe5bda8d72edd09aa4d309697e44ff38c7b3)
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sisu did you steal that from runamuck
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sisu did you steal that from runamuck
:rolleyes: I do not have a bike...I just walk really fast to get where I am going...
Sisu that looks more like a city bike for traveling around oh say the Hamptons or something :chuckle: but its awfully cute
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sisu did you steal that from runamuck
:rolleyes: I do not have a bike...I just walk really fast to get where I am going...
Sisu that looks more like a city bike for traveling around oh say the Hamptons or something :chuckle: but its awfully cute
Capital hill cruiser
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Here is mine. Trek 400 bought used on Craigs List for $200. Excellent bike. I put the tire liners in and haven't had aflat since. Front shocks only. hard tail. I love to hunt this way.
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I found the disc brakes to be great when it is wet. Otherwise they are pretty much not worth the added expense, but hey, what do I know. I am too fat and lazy to have even ridden it more than once or twice....
Hey if you don't ride it anymore, maybe you would be interested in selling it? ;)
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Here is mine. Trek 400 bought used on Craigs List for $200. Excellent bike. I put the tire liners in and haven't had aflat since. Front shocks only. hard tail. I love to hunt this way.
Thats a nice looking setup ya got there. I am curious how do you go about hauling out deer/elk with that?
Would it have to be done in multiple trips, or do those bags or a cart have the capacity to ride out with a field dressed elk on board?
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I have seen these trailers recently on Craigslist for a pretty reasonable price. It looks like these would work good for hauling game or a camp behind your bike. I am thinking about getting the large one. Update: I just looked at the link and they only show the one size. On a previous ad they had a few different sizes.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/1611282259.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/1611282259.html)
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Bikes are great for long distance access. I have found that disc brakes work much better out there. :twocents:
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And then to find a used Bob Trailer and see if it can be overloaded?
http://www.rei.com/product/722504 (http://www.rei.com/product/722504)
Single tracks tow way better on logging roads than the dual tire trailers.
250 lb man 30 lbs gear 30 lb bike 15 lb trailer 70lbs gear on trailer - now pick a hill and do a break test......
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Just got another project idea to build..
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well check out this link if you are looking for ideas.
http://www.biketrailershop.com/catalog/bike-cargo-trailers-c-44.html (http://www.biketrailershop.com/catalog/bike-cargo-trailers-c-44.html)
However, I think if you were looking for one there were some on Seattle craigslist for $100.
Also, I think if you were going to build one you would want to consider one that attaches to the seat post like this one, much like a fifth wheel concept. I think it would be more solid than attaching to the skewers.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/1613219529.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/1613219529.html)
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I like that second design, i have and idea on making it a trailer and adding a brake to the back wheel.
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I have a Specialized Hardrock that was the year before model when I got it. It was about $100 cheaper since it was a 2009 model. I would get the disc brakes. I have had bikes with and without disc brakes. They are much better in the wet conditions- not that we have any rain on the west side. I would pay more for a decent brand that will hold up. There is a big difference in gears, comfort, etc. between the Walmart specials and a decent brand. I see good deals on Craigslist. :twocents:
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Well so far I have demo'd a Specialized Hard Rock from the 2002 or era. An 08 Gary Fisher that didn't feel comfortable and was in severe need of a tune up, and kind of ridden hard. And a 2008 Marin Hawk Hill. I am comparing these all against Walt's Kona Cinder Cone. The Kona is the nicest of all of them, but not sure I want to drop that kind of coin. I am strongly considering a Kona and the Marin.
I will call on the Kona today and see if he would consider less than he is asking, because he is currently asking a lot.
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I recently purchased a Kona Hoss Deluxe hardtail on CL for about $400 in great shape. Kona makes a great bike with excellent components. The Hoss model is also built with a heavier frame and made for the bigger guys. Here is another add on CL that looks like you could make a pretty good deal on.
http://skagit.craigslist.org/bik/1578961177.html (http://skagit.craigslist.org/bik/1578961177.html)
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Wow, you must have looked at my pictures to know that I needed the Hoss :chuckle:
Seriously, I didn't even know that Kona made the Hoss, but that would be a good idea.
I will check into it.
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Actually I didn't look at your pictures, didn't me to offend, lol. I just meant it will take more abuse than a normal bike and is built better. Good luck.
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I was just messin' around, but I am a fat arse and part of the motivation of buying a nicer bike is to start biking with the fam. My son likes being towed in the trailer and wife is sick of me stealing her bike. My old bike made its way to the dump several years ago. It had served its useful life in college. I like the Hoss, and e-mailed that guy, but seeing how it was listed 3 weeks ago, I am not holding my breath. I am going to look at a Kona Cinder Cone tomorrow in CDA.
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they are great for getting back in there but some places i go i would not take a bike or want t o walk back up just to get a bike, so for me foot only and after some surgerys a little less even now :bash:
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my experience ... get one that is easy to push..that seems all I did with mine
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Well I am supposed to be picking up the 08 Kona cinder cone tomorrow. beautiful bike with all the features and components I wanted, and only ridden a few times. Thank you guys for your help.
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Congrats, nice bike, you will be happy.
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this is a great topic, helped me out too, got two shimano bikes yesterday, :IBCOOL: now my wife can go with me, (just need a bike rack now)
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I've had a Giant for 6 years and I've no problems with it. I try have it tuned up prior to hunting season :)
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just a recommendation to some of the guys looking at purchasing a bike, be careful buying used as sometimes it would be cheaper to buy a new bike. the chain, sprocket, freewheel, cassette, crank set ect. all get stretched over time and you will never have accurate shifting or will slip gears on ya. Once they all get too streched out you will have to replace everything which can cost up to 100 or more $ plus a tune-up. If you planning on buying used bring it to a local bike shop and have it checked out. I use to work at bicycle centers in everett and you can get a great hunting bike for 300-500 bucks. i recommend disc brakes but not always needed, lot stronger stopping power in wet conditions and not as much grinding and noise making on the rims which over time will need to be replaced. Get an aluminum frame with atleast 24-27 gears and throw some fenders on there with a rack. Giant, trek, and specialized are all great bikes. put some gun mounts on it and even some tire liners in there to protect against flats or some kevlar lined tires. We have packed out quite a few deer on bikes, if i got some time i will post some pics. if anyone has q's shoot me a pm or if you live in snohomish county go into bicycle centers in everett and ask for john, he will take care of ya. also if you cant afford disc brakes now most newer bikes come with the mounts and you can upgrade later. mike
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mike, what kevlar line tires do you recommend? a couple of suggestions would be fine, just looking for a starting point.
What road tires do you recommend?
I am also looking for an aftermarket pedal suggestion for the Kona? I don't want to fork out the $90 bones for the Wah Wah pedals.
I am looking for the best value. Don't want to break the bank, but don't want crap either. just middle of the road type of stuff.
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specialized makes some kevlar tires both road and mtn, they are a little heavier but pretty bullet proof. they start around 30-35 bucks. The best road tires are going to be a folding bead tire but are expensive and are a lot lighter. Specialized and continental make good folding tires. What time of riding is all this for? There a lot of different equipment for different riding. Road , mtn, or commuting ect.? If you are looking for a clipless system (where your shoes lock into the pedals)I would just go with some basic shimano spd pedals, the spd are considered a mtn system and they shoes have tread on the bottom to walk around when your not riding. They run arouond 70 bucks. If you are just looking for some basic platform petals go with some shimano or specialized that have replacable pins. Also Mtn bikes and road bikes have different size wheels not sure if you know that. hope this helps. gotta go
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Yes, I know. I am just looking for some average slicks for the mtn bike to use around town.
And I was looking some platform pedals for all around use for the same bike.
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The tire you want is a 26x1.95 specialized armadillo crossroads... it has smooth surface in the middle with tread on the side for offroad. it is a great all around tire. A basic platform will run ya around 30 bucks unless you want seal bearings which will be around 60, for hunting the basic ones are fine :twocents: there are a bunch of different pedal brands but all pretty much the same. spin in to feel the difference in the bearings
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Made a trailer out of a game cart. I took out my Washington moose in two trips. 482 lb's of meat and the head.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi154.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs276%2FPABEN07%2F100_2356.jpg&hash=45bca1f4388c7f2234819746d06e68ae23b2cf7d)
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That's awesome, way to go Pa Ben. Nice bull! :tup: