Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: tjgerm on March 23, 2011, 11:45:09 PM
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I bow hunt for elk and have been shooting 100gr muzzy 3 blade. I tried to shoot 125 gr one year and couldn't get them to shoot right so went back to 100gr. I shoot Gold tip 75/95 29" arrows. Any knowledge in this topic would be appreciated. I'd like to switch if I could get them to shoot right.
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What draw weight are you shooting? As long as you are legal using a broad head, that puts you over the 6g per pound of draw. Shoot what ever weight shoots best. :IBCOOL: With the 125 you will lose a few fps, but pick up a little more ke.
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I shoot 71 lbs
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Poundage? Draw length? Speed bow? Could be a spine issue...
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the 125 won't fly right. Tried paper tuning just can't get it to work. I'm thinking maybe I need a heavier arrow. But am looking for advice?
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29" draw the bow is a 2004 bowtech extreme vft. According to their site ibo speed 333. Thats at 30" draw with what ever arrow they use.
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Just stick with your current setup if its working for you. You won't gain much by shooting 125's.
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What about penetration and blood trail I know alot has to do with shot placement but would a heavier arrow and wider broaded give you better penetration and cause more external blood.
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A little bit. I have shot 75grain heads in new zealand and hunt with 125g heads here, to be legal. I shoot 83lbs out of a pse x force. you are looking at 1/16-1/8 diffrence in most broadheads between 100 and 125g. You poke anything in vitals its going down :IBCOOL:
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Only other thing I can add is to check your FOC on the 125 gr bh. Other than that, just stick to your current setup. 25 gr won't do much.
You can also try other brand bh. I noticed you mentioned Muzzy. I started out with those, but I can't get them to fly consistently. I would suggest you try Slick Trick to see if it will work for you.
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Stick with the 100 grain if they are flying good.
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With 100 gr., if you hit 'em right, they'll die. Shoot that which works best for you.
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Agree, just gonna be more of a pain n the arse n a hassel all over again.
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I had the same experience, but reverse. Tried to go to 100 from 125 because I got some in a trade. Didnt like em, so I switched back. Easy solution! But if your dead set on using them, try one on a buddies different weight arrow and see what happens.
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You can also try other brand bh. I noticed you mentioned Muzzy. I started out with those, but I can't get them to fly consistently. I would suggest you try Slick Trick to see if it will work for you.
I had a similar problem. I switched to Shuttle T Locks and they work great.
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Everyone has there opinion on broadheads and it comes down to what works best for you .. there are so many little things that come into play to making them fly straight .. One easy way is to first line up your blades with the fletching .. this is usually a quick fix to the problem.. I shoot 100 gr wasp boss and they fly true-- never break when hitting bones and will up end anything it comes in contact with as long as the shot is true... 30yrs of no complaining with wasp !
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If you increase the weight of the broadhead you have to use a stiffer spined shaft or a shorter arrow to compensate. This is because the extra weight on the front makes the shaft act weaker as it goes through the paradox.
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I switched from muzzy to the t locks also, I will never go back, they are awesome! Very consistant
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All you need to know: http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf (http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf)
Good luck
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I just switched from 125s to 100s and i am shooting way better with the 100s. Switched my arrow from Aluminum 2213s to Aluminum 2117s. Dont know why it made such a big difference but it did. Mark up at Wholsale Sports in Silverdale set me up with the arrows and alot of great information.
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Sounds like an arrow spine issue. Although the gold tips (GT) are listed as if they work for a certain bow weight range, they have a weak spine. I tried the same GT shafts you mentioned with my rig and had similar issues. Went to a stiffer spine arrow and the 125's flew great (i.e., same as my field points).
FYI, I am currently experimenting with 150, 175 and 200 grain pts to increase my FOC (forward of center). I shot the 150's last weekend and they shoot like darts from my Hoyt Trykon at 29" arrow and 72lbs. If interested in shooting a heavier BH, take a look at Alaska Bowhunting. They have heavier field tips for practice too.
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I switched from muzzy to the t locks also, I will never go back, they are awesome! Very consistant
I've done some research on doing that exact same thing. I love the way the muzzies fly though and if it aint broke...
In my research I found that the shuttle-T's will give you a larger/wider wound channel because of the acuteness of the angle from the point of the broadhead to the tip of the blade (basically if you are looking at them from a side profile they are shorter than the muzzy's. This creates a wider wound channel due to the compression it causes prior to cutting upon impact. Basically what I am trying to get at it is my opinion that the muzzy's create better penetration and I think it has a lot to do with the angle of the blades combined with the cut on contact carbite tip. I feel that on bigger critters like elk penetration is more important than wound channel size.
Now, that being said, if I new I was going to have a shot inside of 25 yds I would want to have the Shuttle-T's. I've seen some of the holes guys post up on here and they blow a gaping hole in the critter for such a small tool.
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I switched from 100's to 125's last year, had to go to 300 spine arrows from 340's also. For me the new setup shoots better. Other one shot pretty good also just like the feel of the heavier arrows. I am shooting Easton Axis nano's with Slick trick Magnums. My bull last year went 15 yards, probably would have been the same with the other arrows also. I shoot 71lbs with 31" draw in a Bowtech Guardian.
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i would think with the 75-95 arrow the spine would be fine with a 125 grain head. i am a believer of heavier is better as long as it flies good. maybe try out a different head and see if you have the same problem of not flying good.
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I use G5 montecs. In both 100 and 125. depending on the arrow I am using. I match the head to the arrow to get the desired weight that I want to send downrange. I dont do any adjusting on the sights and both setups hit the same spot consistantly. Two different brands of arrows with different grains per inch. I also dont have to adjust from field tips to broadhead with the G5.
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I'm curious about this. What is the difference in weight on the two arrows?
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The arrows themselves are about 25 grains difference. Keeping the total to right around 425-426 grains. same length same spine, different brands. I have a third brand that I havent put broadheads on, just use to target shoot with. I havent put any of them on a scale yet though.
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This isnt anything I originally planned out. the only thing I did was weigh the arrows, then match the broadhead weight to get the total. I used the montecs because I wanted a solid tip. I have a buddy that started out using the muzzy three blades. When he switched from field tips to the three blade, there was no telling where it was gonna hit. He likes the replaceable blades so I mentioned to him to spend a little more money and that I had heard good things about the shuttle T's. He tried some and loves em. Now very minimal adjustments when going from field tip to hunting.
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hunterdan, i'm curious. do those arrows have the same spine?