Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: sakoshooter on April 17, 2011, 09:38:32 PM
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A buddy asked me to help him with some sight adjustments on his Bear bow this weekend. I found that his whole sight was basically loose.
It made me dbl check everything on my set up. Just thought I'd pass that along. Never hurts to dbl check to make sure everything's tight.
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Put the allens to mine a couple of weeks ago, found all tight. Nice to check. Bow is still shooting good, need to get my form back as I don't shoot year round. I also picked up a new foam for my quiver, mine is pretty sad after 3 years only. Mike
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Don't forget to wax the string and inspect the wrap where the cams touch... A re wrap job is cheaper than a new string!
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I check all my arrows prior to shooting too, last week found one that looked fine but when flexed you could her the carbon splinter/stress mid shaft. Good post, thanks for the reminder!
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just changed my sight yesterday had to check all everything good.after swapping same sight from bow to bow over probably 12 to 15 years finally coughed and upgraded Cobra Boomslang Plus 6 looks real good on the bow
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I almost had my rollergaurd come completely off after a tech worked on it. Ill go through every once in a while and check all my screws.
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was cleaning off plastic from my arrows today and noticed a weak spot in the shaft. Scary to think I shot that thing several times.
Just went to the spring warm up in Custer this weekend, had a blast- My first 3-D and now I am hooked. I shot WAAY better at foam animals than I ever did at a bag target.
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I know I keep mine high and tight!
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A buddy asked me to help him with some sight adjustments on his Bear bow this weekend. I found that his whole sight was basically loose.
It made me dbl check everything on my set up. Just thought I'd pass that along. Never hurts to dbl check to make sure everything's tight.
Lock Tite is your friend. If anything comes loose it gets Lock Tite before I tighten it again. Expecially true on the quivers.
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How many of you folks oil your nuts, bolts, screws etc on your bow? I do but was just wondering. I'm kind of a preventative maintenance freak.
Reason I ask is cuz I saw two bows this past week in very rusty condition. One of them was last years bow and was unbelieveable how rusty everything was. The other had a Spot Hogg sight that was completely rusted. I don't think adjusting it is ever going to happen again.
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Umm sako, asking me how often I oil my nuts is kinda a personal question don't ya think? :chuckle:
Spott hoggs rust like crazy. I've only seen one that is not rusted all to hell and they guy that owned it was kinda anal about it. :P
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Would you put a rifle away wet????,I hope not. Should you put your bow away wet ?? I think not. Part of taking care of your expensive equipment includes drying it after a day in the elements....rain or snow and anywhere in between, and your equipment should get toweled off at the end of each day. Bows can be affected negatively by a saturated string, or water in your rest, or wet cams, any moving parts. A saturated string is a heavier slower string, and can change your point of impact, and then theres moisture that can freeze in your string, rest, or other moving parts.....
I have a five year old Spott-Hog, and two that are eleven years old.....not a spot of rust on any of them. I know many hunters who use SPott-Hogs, and none of them have rust issues.....anal????, I dont think so, taking care of your equipment is just something you should do to prevent failures. R
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How many of you folks oil your nuts, bolts, screws etc on your bow? I do but was just wondering. I'm kind of a preventative maintenance freak.
Reason I ask is cuz I saw two bows this past week in very rusty condition. One of them was last years bow and was unbelieveable how rusty everything was. The other had a Spot Hogg sight that was completely rusted. I don't think adjusting it is ever going to happen again.
Yeah, I took apart my Spot Hogg after season was over - I mean all the way apart, and oiled everything. I was surprised how rusty all the little screws and stuff got. I'm going to do this after every hunting season from now on.
Also, don't forget to check for cam/wheel lean and timing (if you have two cams). That can throw off the accuracy and consistency of the bow, as well.
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I've heard guys lately saying that you only wax the non-serving part of your bow string. Is that what you guys do? I wax the entire string, serving too. After waxing every part of the string and cables that I can reach when the bow is relaxed, I hook the string, pull it back and wax the rest. I don't want any moisture or dirt being able to get into it anywhere.
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I do the same thing sako. A little tip to get the wax to penetrate fully is to use a piece of scrap leather (buckskin, cowhide, etc.) rather than your fingers. It creates much more friction and gets the string nice and warm.
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After shooting that 55 target 3D at Great Northwest last Sat in the rain, I dried my bow at home and wiped everything down with an oiling rag including a cue tip for the sight and everything I couldn't get the rag into. Even the sealed bearings for the cams got a drop of oil.
Hey button nubbs - go oil your nuts will ya.
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:P :chuckle:
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Wow, is oiling your nuts part of a comprehensive bow maintenance program? I've been skipping that step.
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After shooting that 55 target 3D at Great Northwest last Sat in the rain, I dried my bow at home and wiped everything down with an oiling rag including a cue tip for the sight and everything I couldn't get the rag into. Even the sealed bearings for the cams got a drop of oil.
Hey button nubbs - go oil your nuts will ya.
I make it a point to regularly oil mine. As the equipment gets older, this is very important. No one, and I mean no one, wants rusty nuts.
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What kinds of oil do you guys use? I oiled mine up Sunday and I use the B-scent free gun oil. Completely oder less.
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Nothing but Blue Marble oil on my nuts.
I'll bet Button Nubbs is into the scented oil. Probably even lights a few candles when he oils his nuts.
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:chuckle: put a little marvin gaye on an go to town. :chuckle:
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:chuckle: put a little marvin gaye on an go to town. :chuckle:
Oh yeah :IBCOOL:
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Sometimes you gotta treat em right so they don't let you down when you need them most.
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I prefer a circular motion when rubbing on the oil. :IBCOOL:
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don't forget to add a little pressure when you are doing that circular motion. Just remember a little goes a long way! :chuckle:
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Waxing your string is important too. I like to go with the grain. Nothing like hot wax. :IBCOOL:
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How often does one replace the bow string? Mine seems in pretty good shape, no freys or cuts, but as a novice, I want to be sure.
Instead of oil, WD-40 will work just as well. The WD stands for "Water Displacement", and works good a thousands of things; to include removing lipstick from the collar. ;-)
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Glad this thread is back on track..Sure is a bunch of nut jobs on this thread :chuckle:
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How often does one replace the bow string? Mine seems in pretty good shape, no freys or cuts, but as a novice, I want to be sure.
For me 3 years max unless you tear it up in the brush. I've seen a few strings that were older that failed under the serving. Normally the bow will come apart...nothing you want to be close to when it happens.
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A little string wax on the screw threads will keep them from loosening.
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Not a big fan of Loc-Tite when screws are threaded into aluminum. A few wraps of plumbers tape will stop them from backing out. It also insulates so if you do get water in there you shouldn't have electrolysis eating away at the aluminum. All screws and bolts possible are replace with stainless on my bows. Parkrose Hardware carries just about everything a bow needs in stainless.
Scorpion Venom liquid string polymer! My favorite for string maintanance. Can be applied to servings as well.
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RadSav - I think you mean 'teflon tape'. Plumbers tape is perforated metal strapping in a roll. Bees wax is also a very good thread compound.
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RadSav - I think you mean 'teflon tape'. Plumbers tape is perforated metal strapping in a roll. Bees wax is also a very good thread compound.
Seam Head :chuckle: Technically you are correct. Change that to "PTFE Thread Seal Tape" to be technically correct. A guy can't get away with nothin' around this joint. I suspect you're a pipe fitter or work with HVAC to know the difference. Definately don't work for Lowes. ;)
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RadSav - I think you mean 'teflon tape'. Plumbers tape is perforated metal strapping in a roll. Bees wax is also a very good thread compound.
Seam Head :chuckle: Technically you are correct. Change that to "PTFE Thread Seal Tape" to be technically correct. A guy can't get away with nothin' around this joint. I suspect you're a pipe fitter or work with HVAC to know the difference. Definately don't work for Lowes. ;)
Plumber. Sorry ol buddy. Just screwin w/ya.
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I like being kept on my toes. Was feeling good just to have spelled "Plumber" right with no spell check on here anymore.
As far as bees wax on the threads I find that in hot weather it does not work as well as the tape. However, too much tape and you may have problems getting the screws with small allen heads out later. It also works well to true up broadheads if they do not spin correctly. Screw machines can not make a crooked broadhead ferrule. So if alignment is not right it is usually a fit issue between the ferrule and the insert or insert and the shaft. If your problem is with the ferrule to insert fit the tape will correct it quickly. And, your broadheads or field points won't rattle loose. It will also make sure your broadheads never get locked up in the insert. More people cut themselves trying to get stuck broadheads out of an arrow/insert than installing them.
Remember - Hold the broadhead and turn the shaft! Never the other way around.