Post by: Bean Counter on June 11, 2011, 11:47:27 PM
I bought an old, used Dan Wesson .44mag revolver a few months ago for only $200. Seems like a nice gun and I don't think I'll be able to afford an $800 new anytime soon so I couldn't pass this one up. I could use some help with one problem I'm having though:
I can dry fire it as many times as I want in succession. The cylinder cycles, the hammer draws back, the trigger pulls normal, and the hammer falls. Then I load up six rounds, fire off one round, and I can't get a second round off. The trigger doesn't want to pull back, and the cylinder doesn't want to rotate to the new round. If I open the cylinder, unload, reload, spin it around, I can again dry fire as many times as I want. But if I load up another six rounds... same problem. One round, you're done :'(
Thoughts? :dunno:
Post by: Jack Diamond on June 12, 2011, 07:41:36 AM
Post by: high country on June 12, 2011, 08:21:04 AM
Post by: yorketransport on June 12, 2011, 08:45:20 AM
Primers backing out under recoil? new ammo or reloads?
This is the first thing I would check. The bullets could be jumping crimp as well. Wil it do this if you use snap caps?
Andrew
Post by: Huntbear on June 12, 2011, 09:18:12 AM
Post by: Bean Counter on June 12, 2011, 09:44:43 AM
Post by: MikeWalking on June 12, 2011, 10:04:58 AM
I am not familiar with de lock work, but it sounds like a peek under the cover is due. use the correct size hollow ground screwdriver and give the frame a wrap on a piece of wood to release it.
x2... I'm thinking the recoil is knocking something lose, that falls back into place when you tilt/rotate it etc to unload and spin the cylinder... :twocents:
Post by: Bean Counter on June 14, 2011, 09:22:57 AM
PM Sent
Thanks Huntbear! I'll try those out and get back to ya! :tup:
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on June 14, 2011, 01:20:47 PM
-Steve
Post by: Bean Counter on June 15, 2011, 09:02:22 AM
Post by: Huntbear on June 15, 2011, 09:11:44 AM
I think Huntbear is onto something. Because DWs have interchangeable barrels, a gapper measuring 0.006 is mentioned in the instruction. Gotta put it in there between the cylinder and the barrel when torquing it down. Its possible I'm over tightening it or just need to go up to a gapper measuring 0.008. I will try it out and hopefully have both hands when I come back for a report. Think this can cause a KB?
The feeler gauge should not be real hard to pull out. Kind of like doing points back in the old days.
Post by: MikeWalking on June 15, 2011, 09:23:29 AM
I think Huntbear is onto something. Because DWs have interchangeable barrels, a gapper measuring 0.006 is mentioned in the instruction. Gotta put it in there between the cylinder and the barrel when torquing it down. Its possible I'm over tightening it or just need to go up to a gapper measuring 0.008. I will try it out and hopefully have both hands when I come back for a report. Think this can cause a KB?
The feeler gauge should not be real hard to pull out. Kind of like doing points back in the old days.
points? You are old... :chuckle:
Post by: Bean Counter on June 15, 2011, 10:59:40 AM
Thanks again, guys.
Post by: Huntbear on June 15, 2011, 11:23:16 AM
I think Huntbear is onto something. Because DWs have interchangeable barrels, a gapper measuring 0.006 is mentioned in the instruction. Gotta put it in there between the cylinder and the barrel when torquing it down. Its possible I'm over tightening it or just need to go up to a gapper measuring 0.008. I will try it out and hopefully have both hands when I come back for a report. Think this can cause a KB?
The feeler gauge should not be real hard to pull out. Kind of like doing points back in the old days.
points? You are old... :chuckle:
Not old. Just edumacated! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: wadu1 on June 16, 2011, 04:51:10 PM
I'm old I thought he was talking about spear points :chuckle: :chuckle:I think Huntbear is onto something. Because DWs have interchangeable barrels, a gapper measuring 0.006 is mentioned in the instruction. Gotta put it in there between the cylinder and the barrel when torquing it down. Its possible I'm over tightening it or just need to go up to a gapper measuring 0.008. I will try it out and hopefully have both hands when I come back for a report. Think this can cause a KB?
The feeler gauge should not be real hard to pull out. Kind of like doing points back in the old days.
points? You are old... :chuckle:
Not old. Just edumacated! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: Bean Counter on August 23, 2011, 09:21:30 PM
Thanks again to Huntbear for the PM and tip. I think I was making this way too hard. You put the gapper in, and screw the barrel down. I think I was torquing it too hard against the gapper. I went up to 0.008, even though the directions read 0.006. Not much of a difference. Guess I was being a vag and was afraid of blowing my hands off. I popped off a few rounds with thick, kevlar-lined leather gloves on and not only did the gun not blow up, but it cycled through all six rounds flawlessly.
Damn, these Dan Wesson revolvers are tack drivers. Even firing double action the grouping is impressive. I think it was said that torquing the barrel between the frame and the front of the shroud produces much more favorable barrel harmonics--now seen on many S&W revolvers.
Anyhow, with it now 'fixed,' I went out and sold the gun for $650--3x+ what I paid for it 8)
Post by: Huntbear on August 23, 2011, 09:32:15 PM
Glad it was that easy of a fix.