Post by: washelkhntr on June 25, 2011, 06:20:28 PM
I am going to add a new gun safe, but a smaller one then what I already have, it weighs in at just under 500 lbs. Would it be alright to put in in the house on the downstairs floor without having to get into the crawl space and reinforce the floor under where I want to put the safe?
I am not a construction guy, so I really have no idea how much weight a standard floor would even hold. Last thing I want is it falling through the floor or screwing up the flooring somehow.
My other one is on a concrete slab and I would like to put this one there as well, but I don't have the space for it.
Post by: jdmecomber on June 25, 2011, 06:35:40 PM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on June 25, 2011, 07:09:45 PM
Post by: mkcj on June 25, 2011, 07:29:29 PM
Post by: Todd_ID on June 25, 2011, 07:59:21 PM
Post by: addicted on June 26, 2011, 08:41:25 AM
Depending on the jurisdiction, and if I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure most residential floor joists are sized to provide at least 40 pounds per square foot (psf) of live load (stuff that can move) or 10 psf for dead load (stationary stuff). A 500 pound safe would need to cover 50 sq ft of floor, so I say stiffen it with a pad and some posts underneath.
ok todd, stand on one foot....... you are now illegal lol
40 pounds per sqft seems kinda light.
Post by: Bofire on June 26, 2011, 08:48:43 AM
Carl
Post by: addicted on June 26, 2011, 09:11:22 AM
Post by: 7mag. on June 26, 2011, 02:40:14 PM
I have a 12 gun safe, that I believe, weighs around 800 lbs. empty. I put it in the corner, and there is no worries on my part.
Post by: washelkhntr on June 26, 2011, 02:48:14 PM
Yes, it would be going up against a wall in the corner.
Post by: Jamieb on June 26, 2011, 09:28:39 PM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on June 26, 2011, 10:04:23 PM
I'm assuming you are going to put it next to the wall. I've never seen a gun safe in the middle of a room. So, you have nothing to worry about. The strength of the floor joist get higher the closer you get to an exterior wall, unless you have post and beam, then you probably have car-decking as well, and that is even better.Being a contractor I would have to agree with this one !
I have a 12 gun safe, that I believe, weighs around 800 lbs. empty. I put it in the corner, and there is no worries on my part.
Post by: Bean Counter on June 26, 2011, 10:50:58 PM
...2 guys standing are close to that load....
:yike: what's going on in the corner over there, Carl? :chuckle:
Post by: demontang on June 27, 2011, 07:32:19 AM
Post by: Alchase on June 27, 2011, 10:50:27 AM
One tip for moving the safe around, get these furnature sliders and put them under the safe. My wife can easily slide the safe around by herself with these under it.
http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Sliders-Furniture-Set/sim/B0007IQEQ4/2 (http://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Sliders-Furniture-Set/sim/B0007IQEQ4/2)
You can find them at almost any store.
Post by: mebco09 on June 27, 2011, 04:47:25 PM
Depending on the jurisdiction, and if I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure most residential floor joists are sized to provide at least 40 pounds per square foot (psf) of live load (stuff that can move) or 10 psf for dead load (stationary stuff). A 500 pound safe would need to cover 50 sq ft of floor, so I say stiffen it with a pad and some posts underneath.
Live load is what you put into the building. Dead load is the weight of the products that make up the building system (wood, plywood, carpet, sheetrock etc.). So your 40PSF is the number that controls the deflection in your floor. Any amount over that may cause some deflection (although may not make the floor fail).
The second bit of advice is good though, stiffen the floor if you can with a couple of pier pads, maybe a small beam and some posts in the crawlspace. Even if you are within the 40 PSF design load, stiffening will help alleviate any sagging, etc.
Post by: marlin on January 14, 2012, 10:38:49 PM
Post by: Wacenturion on January 15, 2012, 07:55:43 AM
I'm assuming you are going to put it next to the wall. I've never seen a gun safe in the middle of a room. So, you have nothing to worry about. The strength of the floor joist get higher the closer you get to an exterior wall, unless you have post and beam, then you probably have car-decking as well, and that is even better.
I have a 12 gun safe, that I believe, weighs around 800 lbs. empty. I put it in the corner, and there is no worries on my part.
Exactly. :tup:
Post by: bow-n-head on January 15, 2012, 08:30:25 AM
Post by: actionshooter on January 15, 2012, 09:16:22 AM
The only reason I don't have a gun safe is getting it into the basement. That is where I want it. 500lbs will be a little more than I can handle on my own down a flight of stairs. You guys have any tricks for moving a safe?
Ya, have the safe company move it for you. :tup:
Cheaper than you would think
Post by: 400out on January 15, 2012, 09:25:40 AM
Post by: ICEMAN on January 15, 2012, 09:34:43 AM
Purchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.
Post by: purplecowboy on January 15, 2012, 09:54:01 AM
Quote
Purchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.
Do not put your pier blocks on the dirt. They will just be forced into the ground. You need to either put a concrete pad or put 4X4's on the ground. The 4X4's will eventually rot but this is better than just putting the pier blocks on the dirt.
Post by: JimmyHoffa on January 15, 2012, 12:32:54 PM
Post by: marlin on January 15, 2012, 12:48:21 PM
chubby chasin roomate huh? thats funny
Post by: ICEMAN on January 15, 2012, 04:55:39 PM
QuotePurchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.
Do not put your pier blocks on the dirt. They will just be forced into the ground. You need to either put a concrete pad or put 4X4's on the ground. The 4X4's will eventually rot but this is better than just putting the pier blocks on the dirt.
Uhhhh, the pier blocks on dirt are more than sufficient to help the extra load on the floor under a safe. Most post and beam homes have this under their beam runs, nothing more. This is not a load bearing portion of the home and will suffice.
Note; I am talking about a 12" by 12" concrete pierblock with bracket, the same pierblocks most exterior decks sit on... Very substantial.
Post by: allen on January 15, 2012, 07:56:20 PM
Post by: purplecowboy on January 16, 2012, 10:32:35 AM
Quote
Quote from: purplecowboy on Yesterday at 09:54:01 AM
Quote
Purchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.QuoteDo not put your pier blocks on the dirt. They will just be forced into the ground. You need to either put a concrete pad or put 4X4's on the ground. The 4X4's will eventually rot but this is better than just putting the pier blocks on the dirt.QuoteUhhhh, the pier blocks on dirt are more than sufficient to help the extra load on the floor under a safe. Most post and beam homes have this under their beam runs, nothing more. This is not a load bearing portion of the home and will suffice.
Note; I am talking about a 12" by 12" concrete pierblock with bracket, the same pierblocks most exterior decks sit on... Very substantial.
I don't know where you live but if you live anywhere there is the slightest quake threat DON'T put the pier blocks on the dirt. Our neighbors house was built with pier blocks supporting the porch and second floor overhang and when the quake hit several years ago the soil under the blocks liquified and they almost lost the house. It only costs a few dollars more to be extra safe. And it depends on your location it might also be building code. When I had my deck replaced the builder said that putting pads under the pier blocks that supported the deck was required by county building code. We live in Snohomish County.
Post by: Alchase on January 16, 2012, 12:26:55 PM
The only reason I don't have a gun safe is getting it into the basement. That is where I want it. 500lbs will be a little more than I can handle on my own down a flight of stairs. You guys have any tricks for moving a safe?
A really strong dolly, a couple of friends, let the dolly do the work. I found it easier when going down stairs after the first couple steps to lay the dolly on the back bars. They cover a couple stairs at a time and all you have to do is guide it down. Up stairs you need to keep it close to the balance point when you lean it back, then lift from both ends, lol. If you stairs a straight you can even tip the safe back onto the stairs and slide it up. We did this and did not hurt the carpet at all.
Post by: JimmyHoffa on January 16, 2012, 12:46:24 PM
Post by: ICEMAN on January 16, 2012, 06:29:36 PM
QuoteQuote from: purplecowboy on Yesterday at 09:54:01 AM
Quote
Purchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.QuoteDo not put your pier blocks on the dirt. They will just be forced into the ground. You need to either put a concrete pad or put 4X4's on the ground. The 4X4's will eventually rot but this is better than just putting the pier blocks on the dirt.QuoteUhhhh, the pier blocks on dirt are more than sufficient to help the extra load on the floor under a safe. Most post and beam homes have this under their beam runs, nothing more. This is not a load bearing portion of the home and will suffice.
Note; I am talking about a 12" by 12" concrete pierblock with bracket, the same pierblocks most exterior decks sit on... Very substantial.
I don't know where you live but if you live anywhere there is the slightest quake threat DON'T put the pier blocks on the dirt. Our neighbors house was built with pier blocks supporting the porch and second floor overhang and when the quake hit several years ago the soil under the blocks liquified and they almost lost the house. It only costs a few dollars more to be extra safe. And it depends on your location it might also be building code. When I had my deck replaced the builder said that putting pads under the pier blocks that supported the deck was required by county building code. We live in Snohomish County.
I was a general contractor for ten years and worked in the constructin business for 20 years. We raised and leveled existing structures as well as new construction. The reason for the extra block or pour under the pier block is to get the footing down below the point where frost upheaval will not be a factor. Most single story homes set their interior floor supports on nothing more than a 12", 14" or 16" concrete blocks or pads. They are already low enough for frost upheaval concerns since they are already at footer level in the crawl. :dunno:
Post by: 400out on January 16, 2012, 07:40:29 PM
Post by: addicted on January 20, 2012, 07:44:00 AM
Post by: trippledigitss on January 20, 2012, 10:00:42 AM
QuoteQuote from: purplecowboy on Yesterday at 09:54:01 AM
Quote
Purchase two concrete pier blocks with brackets that adjust to height simply by turning a bolt with a crescent wrench. Buy enough 4inch by 4inch pressure treated fence post material needed to reach from the pier blocks to the flooring above. Tack a six foot long piece of the 4x4 post material across a few floor joist under your safe, this is your "helper beam". Slide your pier blocks under the helper beam, and cut two posts to reach from pier block to beam. Cut and install, then start turning your two bolts to tighen the whole thing in place. Cheap, easy, effective.QuoteDo not put your pier blocks on the dirt. They will just be forced into the ground. You need to either put a concrete pad or put 4X4's on the ground. The 4X4's will eventually rot but this is better than just putting the pier blocks on the dirt.QuoteUhhhh, the pier blocks on dirt are more than sufficient to help the extra load on the floor under a safe. Most post and beam homes have this under their beam runs, nothing more. This is not a load bearing portion of the home and will suffice.
Note; I am talking about a 12" by 12" concrete pierblock with bracket, the same pierblocks most exterior decks sit on... Very substantial.
I don't know where you live but if you live anywhere there is the slightest quake threat DON'T put the pier blocks on the dirt. Our neighbors house was built with pier blocks supporting the porch and second floor overhang and when the quake hit several years ago the soil under the blocks liquified and they almost lost the house. It only costs a few dollars more to be extra safe. And it depends on your location it might also be building code. When I had my deck replaced the builder said that putting pads under the pier blocks that supported the deck was required by county building code. We live in Snohomish County.
I was a general contractor for ten years and worked in the constructin business for 20 years. We raised and leveled existing structures as well as new construction. The reason for the extra block or pour under the pier block is to get the footing down below the point where frost upheaval will not be a factor. Most single story homes set their interior floor supports on nothing more than a 12", 14" or 16" concrete blocks or pads. They are already low enough for frost upheaval concerns since they are already at footer level in the crawl. :dunno:
This is partially true on both sides. The footing does have to be below the local frost depth per the IRC as adopted by Wa St Bldg Code. In reality, a 12x pier pad is sufficient enough to carry a tributary load such as this case, basically additional support to the existing floor construction. However, 12x pier pads are not approved to carry most loads in single family wood frame construction, with the exception of small decks with short spans (refer to mybuildingpermit.com) But again, that being said they would work fine for what you have proposed. Liquefaction would occur and undermine ANY size footing, its affect depends more on the type of soil # 1, and type, depth, duration of the seismic event - vs load applied to the footing- so even soils under a 4'x4'x2' pad could liquefy. Where I would disagree with Iceman is on the size of the header beam, or what he called "helper beam" I would use at least a 4x6 vs 4x4 as a 4x face is simply not deep enough to withstand a substantial load w/o deflecting. But again, for what we are talking here it would work fine.
But all this really doesnt matter until we know the type of floor framing - is it solid sawn 2x joists at 16 centers? TJI joists? 5/4 car decking on beams at 4' centers? I think no matter the type, 700# over a 3' square area in a corner will be safe (no pun intended) from structural standpoint.
Post by: fish vacuum on January 21, 2012, 02:28:37 AM
Hell, I know a guy who used to weigh almost 500lbs. His footprint was much smaller than any safe.
Post by: Snopczynski on March 30, 2012, 08:33:44 AM
Post by: luv2hunt on March 30, 2012, 09:08:29 AM