Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: sirfunkeybut on July 27, 2011, 01:34:23 AM
-
My 01 Martin magnum is supposed to be at 70 all the cranked up but it stops at 67, is there anyway to get that poundage back?
-
I heard you never want to bottom out you limbs. A little air gap. I've killed Elk to bear at 62lb's. Why would you need more?
-
Your cables need to be twisted a little.
-
Your cables need to be twisted a little.
+1, but that said, you don't need that extra 3lns. I hunt with a 55lb recurve. My compound is 65
-
67 is plenty for anything you encounter in wa. You can bottom them out as long as.the bow is designed.to be bottomed out. Some are not... (first x force). I reccomend 1/4 to 1/2 turn from bottomed though to keep pocket from sticking to riser.
-
Also. Tuning is much more important than poundage as is draw length. DL is the most important bow spec for.accurate shooting. It will.change with twisting up.cables.
-
What really is the difference between 67# and 70#?
(nothing)
-
What really is the difference between 67# and 70#?
(nothing)
70 - 67 = 3
That is a difference of 3 lbs.
(something)
:chuckle:
-
3lbs has an effect on spine. :twocents:
-
your bow is most effective when it is maxed out. so if you plan on shooting 60 pounds you should buy a bow that maxes at 60 and crank it all the way up. my bow is a 60-70, and cranked all the way up it sits at 71 pounds. now the reason i have for doing it is that i can shoot the same speed at 71 as i was 64 but i have a heavier arrow. heavier arrow means more energy (better penetration through an elk), holds its target line better at longer yards, less effected by wind.
as for your string issue, its due to string stretch, if you havent had it replaced in past 2-3 years i would take it to a shop and have it replaced. if you have the extra bucks i would buy a upgraded string. they are much nicer and wont stretch out as fast or that much since they are pre stretched.
the difference in and my opinion between 67 and 70 is a 400 spine arrow or a 340 spine arrow.
-
What really is the difference between 67# and 70#?
(nothing)
70 - 67 = 3
That is a difference of 3 lbs.
(something)
:chuckle:
Leave it to you to point out my mistake.
-
What really is the difference between 67# and 70#?
(nothing)
70 - 67 = 3
That is a difference of 3 lbs.
(something)
:chuckle:
Leave it to you to point out my mistake.
You may want to consider taking a very basic math course. Just saying.
Haha just messing with ya, I agree with you. 3 lbs isn't much to fret about in the slightest.
-
Alright thanks for the advise, but one more question, my buddy has an 03 Martin set at a lower poundage but its harder to pull back than my bow, plus shoots faster. His limbs aren't the magnums and he has the dyna cam vs. mine being the fuzion cam. Is it just because of those two things?
-
Only thing I could think it its either not as smooth of a draw, or the let off requires more weight.
-
Anyone ever practice at 70 lbs and then, right before season opens, drop it down to 65? You feel like a monster. :chuckle:
-
Or crank it up to 70lbs before the season starts? Makes you feel like a woosie! :chuckle:
-
cams make a huge difference in how it feels when you pull it back. if you have gnarly cams on one bow and a mathews solo cam bow the mathews is gonna draw back much smoother being a medium solo cam, compared to say a pse duel cam bow. i dont know much about the martin bows but i would say it has nothing to do with the limbs and everything to do with the cams.
-
well thank you very much
cams make a huge difference in how it feels when you pull it back. if you have gnarly cams on one bow and a mathews solo cam bow the mathews is gonna draw back much smoother being a medium solo cam, compared to say a pse duel cam bow. i dont know much about the martin bows but i would say it has nothing to do with the limbs and everything to do with the cams.
-
Go and buy a Darton. You will never go back. :tup:
-
why pull all that weight? My girlfriend shot this last year...42 lb draw weight double lung pass threw!
-
i want to know if i hit bone its gonna drive through. there is always lucky shots and she was fortunate to not hit any ribs allowing the arrow to go clean through.
-
i want to know if i hit bone its gonna drive through. there is always lucky shots and she was fortunate to not hit any ribs allowing the arrow to go clean through.
A sixty-seven pound compound shouldn't have a problem breaking through a rib.
-
a 70 pound bow "hopefully" wont have any trouble breaking through 2 ribs. i would rather have 4 wheel drive and never use it then have 2 wheel and need 4 cuz im stuck. if you can pull it no prob then why not.
-
a 70 pound bow "hopefully" wont have any trouble breaking through 2 ribs. i would rather have 4 wheel drive and never use it then have 2 wheel and need 4 cuz im stuck. if you can pull it no prob then why not.
With a good shot all you need is the arrow to break one rib and slide through vitals... :dunno: I see what your saying though, why not add a few more lbs and worry less. But really though a 67lb bow should't pose any issues. I had a pass through on a buck with my bow set at around 64lbs. Broke one rib and slid right through with enough energy to bury itself in the dirt behind. My bow shoots just as fast as my dads 70lb bow, and we use the same arrows. (: A properly tuned setup will bump kinetic energy often more than adding draw weight.
At any rate if you want that extra 3lbs its probably your string/cables. Get them all tuned up and you should be solid. Could also just be a manufacture error I suppose.
-
Well, when you set up your bow and plan on having it set up with a certain pound draw, you are hopefully tailoring your spine, arrow length, and broadhead weight for optimal flight. If you have a lower pound draw (even just 3 lbs), then you are not going to get optimal flight. You might have to "tune" your bow to bring your broadheads to hit where your field tips hit and your arrow will not be shot down your center shot for your bow. You will be relying on the wrong spined arrows to correct themselves by shooting them left or right to start with to hit your target.
-
@recurve
my old bow was at 64 also and i never had a problem going clean through deer either. i bought a new bow this year and just thought i would go big by bumping up to 70 and going with a heavier arrow for the added energy. not that i need it but like you said gives me a little more inner piece knowing that it might have a little more penetration and that may be the difference between a clean kill and a long track or wounded animal. i dont ever wanna wound an animal and i dont take risky shots but stuff happens you cant predict and every leg up i can get i want.
-
I used to practice at 80 lbs and hunt with it set at 80 lbs. That way everything was the same. I wouldn't be switching around the poundage right before the hunt just to "feel like a beast". :chuckle:
-
I used to practice at 80 lbs and hunt with it set at 80 lbs. That way everything was the same. I wouldn't be switching around the poundage right before the hunt just to "feel like a beast". :chuckle:
You just rolled with 80# draw weight to feel like a full time beast year round? What kind of beast would you be if you cranked that thing up to 83# though?
:yike:
-
I used to practice at 80 lbs and hunt with it set at 80 lbs. That way everything was the same. I wouldn't be switching around the poundage right before the hunt just to "feel like a beast". :chuckle:
You just rolled with 80# draw weight to feel like a full time beast year round? What kind of beast would you be if you cranked that thing up to 83# though?
:yike:
That's right...full on beastmode. :chuckle:
-
I used to practice at 80 lbs and hunt with it set at 80 lbs. That way everything was the same. I wouldn't be switching around the poundage right before the hunt just to "feel like a beast". :chuckle:
You just rolled with 80# draw weight to feel like a full time beast year round? What kind of beast would you be if you cranked that thing up to 83# though?
:yike:
That's right...full on beastmode. :chuckle:
:chuckle: High weight, low reps to build muscle. Low weight, high reps to tone muscle. Tune your bow and arrows for the draw weight you are going to hunt then crank it up or down to work on form or build muscle. Thats what I do and honestly I dont see much difference in groups going up or down five pounds anyways. But drawing smoothly and holding longer seems much easier. Probably just in my head. :chuckle: Drawing that bow first thing in the morning after a few days hard hunting and sleeping on the ground can seem like your pulling 90. :chuckle:
-
If your broadheads are shooting fine, dont worry about it...if it bugs you, wait til off season to make changes....too close now to start over. My experience is a 3lb drop will not be the end of the world and cause spine issues....its better to be a bit over spined than under. Right now I am shooting 3 very different arrows , not having made up my mind for elk yet....two of the arrows are very much over spined, and it is NOT an issue for me....might be for others, but Im not experiencing any problems. We all have opinions here, you will have to sort it out and work it out for yourself....WHat works for one, doesnt necessarily mean it works for another.