Post by: vern96 on July 31, 2011, 03:36:57 PM
My first post.
As the title says, I have been fortunate enough to be drawn for the multi-season Elk permit. I am an ex-gun hunter who has done nothing but archery hunt for the last ten years. I bag deer every year, and last year tagged my first elk with a bow!
My problem is I'd like to ML if I do not fill my multi-season Elk permit during archery season, but I do not own a ML, nor have I ever shot one.
Would anyone here be willing to teach me the skill, and perhaps rent me a ML for the season? Instead of buying a ML that I would only use for one season, I would gladly pay $100.00 rental, and give you all left over powder, caps and bullets, and if lucky enough to tag an animal, share some of the meat.
I live in Kirkland, and am willing to travel to make this happen.
Thanks in advance!
Phil
Post by: Kowsrule30 on July 31, 2011, 05:33:00 PM
Post by: johnnyaustin44 on July 31, 2011, 07:34:04 PM
Post by: vern96 on August 01, 2011, 08:00:18 AM
>To learn how to use a ML from someone that knows how
>not to own an ML after the season.
anyone?
Post by: fair-chase on August 01, 2011, 10:55:17 AM
Now you will probably still want someone to take you out and show you the ropes, but with having your own rifle this should be much easier to find as it won't be so intrusive as asking for both a rifle and taking the time to teach. If I was closer I would be more than willing to take you out shooting, but I don't even let my friends who I have known my whole life borrow my weapons for use when I am not around. The liability is just too great and it's kind of like loaning money to family members...there's no way it will have a good outcome. :chuckle:
I wish you the best of luck on your multi season hunt and hope it all comes together for you to have a great year of hunting.
Post by: Elkrunner on August 01, 2011, 11:16:27 AM
Sorry I can't help you with the ML>
Post by: vern96 on August 01, 2011, 11:18:34 AM
Sweet spike...where did ya get that one? I am still trying to get my first archery elk as well.
Sorry I can't help you with the ML>
In the Mica Peak area (Spokane)
Post by: vern96 on August 01, 2011, 11:21:12 AM
Vern, I would also suggest purchasing a muzzleloader. Before you dismiss this idea hear me out. Purchase a decent one used that is reasonably priced, usually 200-300 dollars. Use it for the season and then resell it. If you are not in a hurry to sell after the season you should be able to recoup your entire investment. If you are in a hurry to sell it you may take a minimal loss on it. Somewhere in the range of 50-100 dollars, which was what you would have rented one for in the first place. In addition, you wouldn't have the stress involved worrying about scratching or damageing someone elses rifle.
Now you will probably still want someone to take you out and show you the ropes, but with having your own rifle this should be much easier to find as it won't be so intrusive as asking for both a rifle and taking the time to teach. If I was closer I would be more than willing to take you out shooting, but I don't even let my friends who I have known my whole life borrow my weapons for use when I am not around. The liability is just too great and it's kind of like loaning money to family members...there's no way it will have a good outcome. :chuckle:
I wish you the best of luck on your multi season hunt and hope it all comes together for you to have a great year of hunting.
Ok,.... I hear ya....
Where is a good place to buy a newer, used ML? I went to the biggest used gun place in this area, and they had nothing but ML's that looked like they were from the Civil War!
Thanks again-
Phil
Post by: CP on August 01, 2011, 11:25:53 AM
Post by: teanawayslayer on August 01, 2011, 12:19:10 PM
You can get a decent ML for around $100 or so and get to keep it for the next time you draw a multi season deer/elk tag.... You never know you might start ML hunting and put the bow down..... :tup:Exactly what I would do. You will have no problem finding a cva or a traditions for around 100-150.
Post by: pianoman9701 on August 01, 2011, 12:34:37 PM
Post by: vern96 on August 01, 2011, 01:05:38 PM
I bought the traditions tracker 209 and changed the breech plug to fit the caps and it has gone bang every time.only cost 110 dollars.
I see a brand new one of these on gunbroker.com for 169.99...
What does a new breech plug cost? Where would I find one of those?
thx!
Post by: jechicdr on August 01, 2011, 05:09:48 PM
Post by: vern96 on August 01, 2011, 05:17:03 PM
Any info on what accessories (powder, bullets, etc) would be best for this gun for elk hunting?
Thanks in advance!!!
Phil
Post by: johnnyaustin44 on August 01, 2011, 05:38:22 PM
Post by: fair-chase on August 01, 2011, 05:57:35 PM
ok, step one done.... I just bought a new Traditions Ultra-light Vortek (Northwest Edition)...
Any info on what accessories (powder, bullets, etc) would be best for this gun for elk hunting?
Thanks in advance!!!
Phil
Good deal. You shouldn't have a problem unloading that onto someone else once the season is over.
Accessories:
Capper
Bullet starter
Powder measure
2 or 4 speed loaders
Bore butter or Crisco
Powder, bullets, and caps
Post by: bobcat on August 01, 2011, 06:05:20 PM
As far as how much powder you need...well, you really don't need to ever go over 100 grains, especially with Triple 7. It is "hotter" than other powders. I use 90 grains and that's more than enough.
Post by: bobcat on August 01, 2011, 06:08:19 PM
Accessories:
Capper
Bullet starter
Powder measure
2 or 4 speed loaders
Bore butter or Crisco
Powder, bullets, and caps
Just curious- what is the purpose of the bore butter?
Post by: fair-chase on August 01, 2011, 06:20:46 PM
Quote
Just curious- what is the purpose of the bore butter?
It's the duct tape of the muzzleloader world. :chuckle: At least for me. Assuming he is going to sight it in and do a nominal amount of shooting before the season it is usefull in cleaning between outings. Keeps rust at bay. Not corrosive like most solvents. Also, some sabots are difficult to load. A slight bit (very minimal) of lube on the sabot can make loading much easier. Obviously the barrel on the Vortek does not need to be "seasoned" like some muskets but I still find a rust inhibiting lubricant to be a good investment.
Post by: bobcat on August 01, 2011, 06:26:35 PM
Me, I just use the standard lubricants that one would use with modern rifles. If a saboted bullet is difficult to load, try a different sabot.
Post by: fair-chase on August 01, 2011, 09:41:56 PM
Me, I just use the standard lubricants that one would use with modern rifles.
That would work just fine for what he has. I just have both new and old style muzzleloaders so I stick with that do to it's dual purpose attributes. Old habits are hard to break you know.
Quote
If a saboted bullet is difficult to load, try a different sabot.
True, I just find that depending on the powder a little fouling can make loading a pain. A little bit of lube, I'm talking very little, just enough so your finger feels slimy but not a visible amount wiped onto the sabot can get me from cleaning (brushing) every 3rd or 4th shot to cleaning every 8th shot. Just makes a day at the range more enjoyable when you put more shots downrange and less effort into scrubbing.
Post by: CP on August 02, 2011, 02:58:44 PM
Post by: fair-chase on August 02, 2011, 06:45:31 PM
Sabots should not be lubricated. Lubrication will adversely affect their accuracy, as will fouling. If your bore is fouled, clean it. If a sabot is hard to load, try a different sabot.
I'm listening. How exactly does lubrication negatively effect a sabot? Never heard this before.
Post by: CP on August 03, 2011, 06:46:58 AM
Note about Sabots
T/C's All Natural Lube 1000 Plus Bore Butter was designed as a lube to be used with traditional patched roundballs (lube the patches) and all lead conical bullets like our Maxi-Ball and Maxi-Hunters.
If you are shooting sabots, DO NOT LUBE YOUR SABOTS. Sabots are designed to be shot right out of the package____DRY. In fact, you should remove any trace of Natural Lube, or any lube for that matter, from the barrel before shooting sabots. The less lube you have in the barrel when shooting sabots, the better, to achieve optimum accuracy.
http://www.tcarms.com/customerService/faq.php (http://www.tcarms.com/customerService/faq.php)
The lube can cause the plastic to slip over the rifling when fired, affecting the spin. It can also cause the bullet to stick to the plastic when the projectile leaves the muzzle preventing a clean separation of sabot from bullet.
Post by: jstone on August 03, 2011, 06:48:55 AM
Post by: fair-chase on August 03, 2011, 10:53:00 AM
Post by: huntnnw on August 03, 2011, 10:36:26 PM
I hadnt heard that about lube and sabots...when I am done shooting I run a patch down the barrell with bore butter to keep it from corroding and rusting. When I go to shoot the next time I always just load it and shoot it,but I dont lube my barrell and bullets after that...the first shot has always been dead on.
Another tip vern..be consistent in what you do when target shooting... I after evey shot run a cleaning patch down and once again then a dry one to dry it then load it again. A dirty barrel will effect your accuracy.
Post by: bloodhound on August 03, 2011, 10:58:06 PM
Post by: bobcat on August 03, 2011, 11:00:29 PM
you do know that if you have a multi season tag you dont have to use a muzzle loader during ml season. you can use you bow all three seasons. its considered a lesser weapon. so during archery season you have to use a bow only, ml season you can use a bow or ml, rifle season you can use a bow, ml, or rifle. you just have to have hunter orange on during firearm seasons. it just has to be a lesser weapon then the season requires.
Not sure where you got that info but it's not correct. During muzzleloader seasons, only muzzleloaders can be used. Read the regulations. The rest of your post is correct.
Post by: bloodhound on August 03, 2011, 11:06:15 PM
Post by: huntnnw on August 03, 2011, 11:18:51 PM