Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Biggerhammer on September 22, 2011, 05:08:08 PM
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BenchMark built Rem700 450 Ultra Magnum( .375 Ultra necked up to .458), I had Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool And Gauge build my reamer. I went with a stainless fluted Lilja, 14 twist 26" inch #7 barrel with a Harrell's muzzle brake. I also had them do a thread protector so I can shoot it without a brake along with a Sako extractor. RCBS did the custom dies and CEB (Cutting Edge Bullets) was kind enough to make the 370gr BBW#13 Non Conventional Hollow Points W/ballistic tip inserts. Load development, case forming and chronograph work will begin this weekend.I need to have it worked out before my Observatory bull permit starts. :o
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EDITED 11/3 , Pictures added.
I posted some pics and story under the " Elk Hunting " forum but thought I would follow up in this post. It was nice to see the project through from start to finish. Have it go from just a idea on the range to a built custom rifle. Load development and bullet selection for the area I was going to be hunting and the distances I would be shooting. Then to take a branched alter bull with the setup was amazing to say the least. In the end it was well worth it.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2FIMG_4197.jpg&hash=c588e135479c41c36cf3634b888365c63cb12426)
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The shot was at 300 yards and bellow is a picture of the recovered bullet found just under the hide on the off side. 350gr Speer HotCore just shy of 2800 fps, the recovered bullet weighed 248.4 grains.
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Bull what? Cape Buffalo? :o Very nice rig for sure.
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Really nice looking build. I like the cartridge set up, looking forward to seeing your ballistics. Should be a sweet elk gun.
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If you ever want me to test drive that reamer.....I could see me building one of those.
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how much does it weigh? Very cool looking set up.
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If you ever want me to test drive that reamer.....I could see me building one of those.
Anytime High Country...
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how much does it weigh? Very cool looking set up.
9 lbs before the optics were mounted, haven't weighed it dressed up and loaded yet.
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:yike: Beautiful rifle, looks like a Vortex scope, what rings and bases?
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How bad do bullets hit the wallet?
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How bad do bullets hit the wallet?
Just under $3.00 a piece with the polymer insert tip.
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I am anxiously awaiting chrono results.......
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:yike: Beautiful rifle, looks like a Vortex scope, what rings and bases?
I set this rifle up with what I had on hand at the time. It's a 6.5-20 Vortex Viper with a 20 MOA Weaver base and 6 screw Weaver rings. The rifle alone set me back enough, the optics and mounts will be upgraded in time or I will park glass off of one of my other rifles on it.
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Nice rifle
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That looks like it will do some serious damage on an elk!
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Holy crow, thats a helluva gun. When did they start giving out bull elephant permits for the Observatory unit? Or is it a bull hippo permit you drew? :chuckle:
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Have you shot it yet? That thing looks like it would blow my shoulder out of its socket.
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That is sweet man, did you come up with this caliber or has it been developed before? I have always wondered how much it would cost to create a wildcat caliber and build a gun around it, was it pretty spendy? Can't wait to hear how it shoots and what kind of velocities you get out of her.
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Very nice looking rifle.
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Got it out on the range today and broke the barrel in using 350gr Hornady interlocks with Win 748 powder. Started at 84gr and started working up checking for pressure signs or that slightly sticky bolt. Worked up to 97gr and I was still good with a velocity of 2842. The first eleven rounds, I cleaned the rifle after every shot. Using Hoppes Benchrest and a scrub with Sweets 7.62 solvent.
Here is a picture of the barrel break in target, cleaned between every shot. Powder charges 94, 95 ,96 and 97.
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I did the math and came up with 94gr of Win 748 to start with for the 370gr CEB's, Loaded up 9 of them on the range. Fired 3 rounds to get my 200 yard zero. Then I fired two 3 shot groups at 200 yards that went about 2" inches or less for both 3 shot groups(Average Vel 2640) By then the sun was around and directly in line with the target. I had fired 22 rounds total, that was enough for me for the day. I would have taken photos of the 200 yard groups but the range had filled up and I wasn't waiting around for the photo op. Bellow is a better look at the CEB BBW#13 370gr.
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Yes, it does have some SERIOUS recoil, even with the brake. 15' out in front of the rifle the muzzle blast was constantly screwing up the chronograph.
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Sounds awesome. Those velocities for that weight is great. Now you need to find an elk to break it in on!
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Very cool! I've seen the 458 done on an Ultra Mag, but never set up quite like yours. I like it! :tup:
Those bullets have my attention as well. I've never seen anything like that before.
Andrew
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Given the looks of your ladder, you got a winner for sure. Any idea on the bc of the pills.
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More Advil and fire forming today, I think I found my plinking, ground hog shooting and carp blasting combo. Shot this group today at 200 yards while forming brass. Going to give the same powder charge a try with the Barnes 350gr TSX as soon as they get delivered.
Tomorrow I work on 300 yard scope dope.
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Sweet looking Gun. I feel sorry for whatever your shooting at though. :yike:
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Looks and sounds like it kills on both ends lol. You do know dinosaurs are extinct right :tup:
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Well after 48 rounds the Vortex Viper crashed from recoil, along with my bloody shoulder. :o
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You are likely going to do like I did with my 7# 300rum w/o a brake......buy every scope made and then break them. I would have a bloody patern of the fabric come through my skin. Fwiw.....I never found a scope to last. Good luck.
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Yea that looks painful. And a scope might be a fun thing to find that will stand up to that round. I had a problem with a few scope just on my 338 win.
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That is one outstanding rifle! Love the custom work stuff :IBCOOL:
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Had enough of that Harrell brake doing absolutely nothing. My .375 Ultra sporter weight without a brake recoils less than my 450 Ultra. It's on its way back to Benchmark to have a 4 port Center Shot " Muscle Brake " installed. I figure if the 4 port Muscle brake works on the .408 CheyTac then it sure should work on the 450 Ultra. Should save me a bunch of trauma.
Yea that looks painful. And a scope might be a fun thing to find that will stand up to that round. I had a problem with a few scope just on my 338 win.
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I did a ton of research on brakes after my second shoulder surgery. What I found is at least 2 holes over caliber at at least 90* to the bore and a reasonably tight muzzle hole was the most efficient with regards to recoil and eating muzzle blast. Adding holes was a diminishing return....but effective. Muzzle clearance played a role also. I think you will be much better off.
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The Muscle Brakes are good stuff. I have a 3 port on my 338/375 Ruger pistol and I'm having a 4 port put on the 375 RUM improved being built.
If you haven't already, you may want to consider having top ports milled into the brake. The can make a pretty big differance in shooting comfort. Recoil can be fun, but being beat until you bleed gets old fast.
Andrew
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The Muscle Brakes are good stuff. I have a 3 port on my 338/375 Ruger pistol and I'm having a 4 port put on the 375 RUM improved being built.
If you haven't already, you may want to consider having top ports milled into the brake. The can make a pretty big differance in shooting comfort. Recoil can be fun, but being beat until you bleed gets old fast.
Andrew
Got it covered Andrew, just after I sent the barreled action out. I called and talked to Chris at Benchmark and he said theY would also add ports to the top of the brake.
I don't see how much you can really " Improve" a .375 RUM case considering it's shoulder angle already. Unless you are moving the shoulder forward and removing what little case tapper that is left. There wouldn't be but a small fraction of powder capacity gain.
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Got it covered Andrew, just after I sent the barreled action out. I called and talked to Chris at Benchmark and he said theY would also add ports to the top of the brake.
I don't see how much you can really " Improve" a .375 RUM case considering it's shoulder angle already. Unless you are moving the shoulder forward and removing what little case tapper that is left. There wouldn't be but a small fraction of powder capacity gain.
That's pretty much what I did. Standard AI treatment with the 40 degree shoulder and minimal body taper, and then pushed the shoulder forward about .13". The increase in actual case volume will only be about 8gr. The biggest gain will be from extending the throat by .4" allowing me to seat the bullets (350gr Sierra MK) way out there so that they aren't taking up powder capacity. The rifle is going to be setup as a single shot, so OAL isn't an issue.
Honestly, it will be closer to a 375/404 improved since I'll probably use 404 Jeffry brass instead of RUM brass. The RUM brass needs to be necked up to 40 cal and then back down to 375 to create a false shoulder and fireformed. The 404 is just a neck down and fireform.
Andrew
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The longer throat is great, I run 102 gr of IMR 7828 in my .375 RUM with a 260 Accubond and it flat crushes stuff at 3050fps but it's a compressed load because the bullet has to be seated so deep to fit in the mag box on a Rem700. The 350 Sierras should carry real well.
Check out buffaloarms.com , they have BELL .404 Jeffery cases, quality stuff for a buck a piece. They are cool, they have no headstamp. I picked up a bunch to use in my 450 Ultra , they are heavier than the Rem brass. The necks are so long and the brass so heavy I'm afraid of crashing my full length 450 die if I try using it to neck them up like I do with the .375 RUM brass. I'm waiting on a #41 shell holder from RCBS(Doesn't use the same shell holder as the RUM cases) then I think I'm going to fire form ten or so by using 18gr of Bullseye then some tissue packed on the powder, fill the case with cream of wheat, then a bit more tissue to hold it all in. Stuff it in and pull the trigger. bam!! Instant 450 ultra case. Load them up and see how they shoot compared to the Rem brass.
Here is a recovered 260gr Accubond that I took from a Eastern WA Mulie shot at 560 yards with a 375 RUM. He was faceing me head on down hill, I hit him center of the chest and found the bullet just under the hide near the pelvic bone.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi90.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk269%2Flandonmoses%2FDSC01103.jpg&hash=48e3cfae75dcafbd4c28ce144d4e456c4a7cc391)
My next build I'm having Benchmark do is a 6.5 Badger, a .338 RUM necked down to 6.5 with a 40 degree shoulder.
450 Ultra case left, 6.5 Badger "Go" gauge center and PTG 6.5 Badger reamer on the right.
No turn neck, 150 Free bore 1-30
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Man wish i had the money to play with guns like that :tup:
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Who is your therapist ? Self torture comes to mind...... :chuckle:
Beautiful " I want it gun ".
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Check out buffaloarms.com , they have BELL .404 Jeffery cases, quality stuff for a buck a piece. They are cool, they have no headstamp. I picked up a bunch to use in my 450 Ultra , they are heavier than the Rem brass. The necks are so long and the brass so heavy I'm afraid of crashing my full length 450 die if I try using it to neck them up like I do with the .375 RUM brass. I'm waiting on a #41 shell holder from RCBS(Doesn't use the same shell holder as the RUM cases) then I think I'm going to fire form ten or so by using 18gr of Bullseye then some tissue packed on the powder, fill the case with cream of wheat, then a bit more tissue to hold it all in. Stuff it in and pull the trigger. bam!! Instant 450 ultra case. Load them up and see how they shoot compared to the Rem brass.
My next build I'm having Benchmark do is a 6.5 Badger, a .338 RUM necked down to 6.5 with a 40 degree shoulder.
450 Ultra case left, 6.5 Badger "Go" gauge center and PTG 6.5 Badger reamer on the right.
No turn neck, 150 Free bore 1-30
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I have about 50 pieces of Norma 404 brass sitting around that I grabbed from the Bargain Cave at Cabelas a while back. They were marked down to $80 because they had been repacked, and I had a bunch of Cabelas points on the card which I cashed in. The way I see it, the brass was free. :chuckle: I've tried necking down a few of them and it's much nicer than forming the RUM brass. Once the barrel shows up I'll get to fireforming with the same recipe you're using. :tup:
The 6.5 Badger sounds pretty cool as well. Are you going to have the barrel Nitrided or treated in any other way so that you get more than 300 rounds out of it before the throat is gone? :chuckle:
Man wish i had the money to play with guns like that :tup:
You may be surprised how reasonably you can build stuff like this. A custom reamer is only about $150, but often you can rent them for around $40. I do most of my builds on Savage actions, so all I need is somebody to thread and chamber the barrel, and I'll install it myself. The cost of rebarreling a Savage can be anywhere from $200-600, depending on who does the work and what barrel maker you use.
Granted, you can spend a lot of money in a hurry. Look at BiggerHammer's build. It's a high quality setup, built by the guys at Benchmark who really know their stuff. It's probably safe to say that it didn't come cheap, but it's a one of a kind gun. That alone can be worth a good chunk of money. :twocents: :tup:
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Yea I have a few builds like to do but just no money to do it. Ok I have a lot of builds I would like to do :chuckle:
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Holy Crow is right! Wow! That is a Beast of a Gun!
My daughter is going to be highly undergunned after elk with her 243 this year!!!!! :dunno: :chuckle:
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UPS delivered my rifle back from Benchmark with the brake up grade, took it for a test drive today and the difference in recoil as compared to the original brake was reduced quite noticeably. As always Benchmark did a buetiful job on the installation and machining a extra top port and custom tension set screw.
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:tup: Wish I could take that kind of recoil my back wouldnt take it :(
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The set scew is an interesting idea. This prevented them from needing to recut the muzzle threads to index the brake correct?
Andrew
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Yes, so they didn't have to chop a inch off my barrel. But they did the brake perfect , so it indexes up perfect just touching. Then you set the screw.
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Is the new brake threaded larger than the old one? I am lost on the set screw.
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Is the new brake threaded larger than the old one? I am lost on the set screw.
maybe im wrong but i think that is so that you can index the brake correctly and then tighten the set screw so that the brake wont rotate. so that teh brake doesnt need to be tightened zll the way down to the end of the threads? that is my guess.
that gun is sweet by the way!
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No , it is the same thread size. It just makes it easier to keep it in place, index it and to remove it for cleaning.There was no work done to the barrel threads of the previous brake. They made another brake work with out messing with the previous threads or barrel length.
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Is the new brake threaded larger than the old one? I am lost on the set screw.
maybe im wrong but i think that is so that you can index the brake correctly and then tighten the set screw so that the brake wont rotate. so that teh brake doesnt need to be tightened zll the way down to the end of the threads? that is my guess.
that gun is sweet by the way!
I was hoping the brake indexed square when bottomed on the tennon.
I would like to here if screw tension on the brake changes poi. I doubt it will, just curious.
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The brake does index square upon contact( Just snug ). But brakes with a flat on them are whole different creature than brakes in the round and that's due to the tension required to keep it in place but also square at the same time. The set screw allows me to screw the brake on untill it touches snug , where it is square and set the screw. Anyone who has used brake much knows there is some give to any metal involved, barrel/ brake and over tightening of a brake that indexes correctly, especially with brakes with a flat. They will go past there index point and will not longer index correctly where the flat is noticeable past it's index point. With round brake, I can care less doesn't matter the hole pattern is equal all the way around and you cant see it visually.The only way to make a brake index up correctly would be to do it at a certain inch pound of torgue and never go beond that, well that isn't happening with me, for speed, cleaning and simplicity. Screw the brake on untill it touches snug and indexes, set the screw with maybe a 1/8 - 1/4 turn and be done with it.
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Updated, pics added.