Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Dave Workman on September 30, 2011, 03:17:05 AM
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Here's one that has me scratching my head.
I'm trying to zero my brother's Marlin X7 in .30-06, using carefully measured loads with 180-grain Noslers, Nosler brass. For some reason it seems all over the place.
Synthetic stock comes up to touch the barrel at the front end of the channel, just like on my XL7 (as per the design) which zeroes up nicely, same loads.
Any thoughts?
I could easily switch bullets and powder, which will be the next move.
Anyone have experience with floating that barrel?
Hrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm :bash:
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Have you checked the scope, all the hardware nice and tight?
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Every synthetic rifle I have ever purchased, if I shot it without changing the stock out. I would first remove the barreled action from the stock and sand the pressure point at the front completely out, I use 40 or 60 grit sand paper wrapped snugly around proper sized dawel, I float mine completely to the recoil lug, as to be able to fold a dallor bill in half and be able to slide it between the barrel and the stock freely the full length. Only other thing I can think of is like the above mentioned. A process of elimination. Rings, bases a scope swap. A load change, I always keep several boxes of Remington green box factory fodder around for factory cartridges. To check and see if handloads are the problem or to shoot as my fowler shots after cleaning so as not to waste match prepped quality handloads.
With factory 30 Cals and a 10 twist over the years in most cases then not a 165gr bullet has out shinned a 180gr pill.
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Dave does Marlin have a torque spec for the action screws? If the action is shifting around at all it would make a big difference on how much the fore-end of that stock is pushing on the barrel. Aside from that the gun just might not work well with that bullet, my 308 Savage throws 180gr Winchester ammo at a target like it's buckshot..
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i assume you checked your rings and bases, as for floating a barrel if the gun is desighned to touch then i doubt you can float it, you might have to take it in and have the barrel bedded if that is where the problem is, are you able to get any type of a group or are you just flingn lead all over
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i assume you checked your rings and bases, as for floating a barrel if the gun is desighned to touch then i doubt you can float it, you might have to take it in and have the barrel bedded if that is where the problem is, are you able to get any type of a group or are you just flingn lead all over
????????
Free float the barrel and bed the action and bedding the action on a factory tupper ware stock is about worthless.
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It can be bedded. but is a pain...
the pressure point is something I hate personally, and have had rifles shoot as well or better having removed it, free floated the barrel, and solidly bedded the action and recoil lug.
You might try a box of factory ammo, just be certain though..
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Here's one that has me scratching my head.
I'm trying to zero my brother's Marlin X7 in .30-06, using carefully measured loads with 180-grain Noslers, Nosler brass. For some reason it seems all over the place.
Synthetic stock comes up to touch the barrel at the front end of the channel, just like on my XL7 (as per the design) which zeroes up nicely, same loads.
Any thoughts?
I could easily switch bullets and powder, which will be the next move.
Anyone have experience with floating that barrel?
Hrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm :bash:
Dave; check out marlinowners.com. Guys remove the pressure points all the time. Some have found there stock hits the barrel in other places along barrel as well. I would free float period. I,ve loaded 180 noslers in at least six different rifles with excellent accuracy. It would be difficult for me to believe the load is the issue. Also there is lots of info on marlinowners.com about screw torque. That matters too. Good luck to you. Regards; hub
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Here's one that has me scratching my head.
I'm trying to zero my brother's Marlin X7 in .30-06, using carefully measured loads with 180-grain Noslers, Nosler brass. For some reason it seems all over the place.
Synthetic stock comes up to touch the barrel at the front end of the channel, just like on my XL7 (as per the design) which zeroes up nicely, same loads.
Any thoughts?
I could easily switch bullets and powder, which will be the next move.
Anyone have experience with floating that barrel?
Hrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm :bash:
Dave; check out marlinowners.com. Guys remove the pressure points all the time. Some have found there stock hits the barrel in other places along barrel as well. I would free float period. I,ve loaded 180 noslers in at least six different rifles with excellent accuracy. It would be difficult for me to believe the load is the issue. Also there is lots of info on marlinowners.com about screw torque. That matters too. Good luck to you. Regards; hub
BINGO!!!!!!!
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Dave, those guns are basically a savage and with the floating head, should shoot well. I would suspect optics issues. A guy might check the measurements on fired brass to see if one slipped through with too much headspace.
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Usually those preasure points are there for a reason. I Floated my 240 ULW, sprayed boolits into a 5-6'' pattern. I took some bedding, added a little preasure about 1'' back from the fore end, bingo, sub-moa. The commanders 260 model 7 was the same way. When I took the wood stock off, I noticed the preasure point, dropped it into her new McMillan free floated, sprayed a 5'' group, so I folded a bussiness card in half, bingo, 1'' groups with 120 TSX's. I'd try some differant loads. Later