Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:08:44 PM
Post by: yorketransport on November 27, 2011, 07:10:23 PM
Andrew
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:12:35 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:13:37 PM
Post by: wraithen on November 27, 2011, 07:13:55 PM
Post by: FC on November 27, 2011, 07:27:10 PM
@wraithen, most AR-15's have M4 feed ramps at the least, what other differences are you thinking to find?
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:30:55 PM
Post by: FC on November 27, 2011, 07:32:13 PM
Post by: high country on November 27, 2011, 07:37:32 PM
Post by: wraithen on November 27, 2011, 07:39:22 PM
Post by: FC on November 27, 2011, 07:44:16 PM
I am actually mostly talking out the other end. I do know I can feed an m-4 absolute crap army ammo (bent, scuffed, chipped) and they all them to get where I point them at and be set up for the next shot. :dunno:
My AR does the same, it seems to have a particular affinity for Brown bear 62gr. hp...lol
Post by: JimmyHoffa on November 27, 2011, 07:47:24 PM
Post by: Ridgeratt on November 27, 2011, 07:49:02 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:49:19 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:52:03 PM
Not knowing much about a M-4. But from just reading it sounds like your SB die isn't going full length. Thats from using SB's on 243's and 06's the other is that the brass is too long and needs trimmed. Both of which will cause headaches. My first choice would be take another 1/8th of a turn on the dies. :twocents:
This is something I will try next when I load some more.
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 07:56:59 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 27, 2011, 08:29:48 PM
One.....You may need to turn the resizing die in a little more to push the shoulder back. It is important to have the press ram cam over once it touches the shell holder. Adjust the die down to where it hits the shell holder, then give it an extra 1/2 to 1 full turn more. Bolt guns are not quite as affected here due to the operator inducing force on the bolt to lock the weapon into battery. AR's are a different beast, they rely on spring pressure from the buffer spring to fully engage the bolt into battery.
2nd problem could be that you have your bullet seating die screwed in too much. Loosen the bullet seating stem and back it off a couple of turns, then back the seating die out a few turns. Place a resized case under the die and raise the case into full upward position. Screw the seater die body down until it stops against the case (do not use a bullet at this time) Once the die contacts the case, back it off two full turns. Then readjust your seating stem to your desired OAL and tighten it all down so no movement can take place.
What does all too frequently occur is the seating die is set too deep and the case mouth touches the crimping portion of the seater die. When this happens the case shoulder is very slightly pushed back creating a small bulge in the case body. This results in the case getting jammed into the chamber and failure to allow the bolt to seat into battery.
On a side note, you do not need small base dies for an AR15. I have loaded many thousands of rounds for 20 or more AR's in many different calibers and have yet to find a need for them. Most folks that switch to small base dies do so on others recommendation and those folks usually are experiencing the same problems you described, when all they should have done was to properly adjust the die set from the start.
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 27, 2011, 08:37:37 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 27, 2011, 08:39:34 PM
Post by: demontang on November 28, 2011, 07:40:52 AM
My gun will run them just fine but when your tried unloading it was like a act of god.
Post by: JohnVH on November 28, 2011, 07:48:16 AM
Post by: FALFire on November 28, 2011, 10:40:17 AM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 12:03:25 PM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on November 28, 2011, 12:34:10 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 28, 2011, 07:38:15 PM
I had the same issue with mine so I started using a crimp thing after seating the bullet. That helped mine.
Are you using the Lee Factory Crimp Die? That is a good die but keep in mind it can alter the effectiveness of a match bullet so go easy. I've used them on occasion but they only work properly with cannelure bullets that will accept that type of crimp. What happens when reloading for the AR is some of the seating dies have a taper crimp and when the cases are not all trimmed to the exact same length, the longer case will be crimped too tight creating stress on the case neck and pressing the shoulder back to where it bulges. When this occurs, you end up with a case that is now out of spec and will not fully chamber. If it is close enough to fire once in the chamber but still not in full battery with bolt lock up, you may get quite an explosion as the bolt is forced back and the case comes apart sending shrapnel in several different directions with about 50-60,000 KPS of pressure behind it. That's not a good thing :yike:
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 08:16:47 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 08:18:02 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 08:38:05 PM
:bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:
this really sucks as it shoots awesome! Just went out Sunday after cleaning and shot 10about rounds fast in a half dollar and 5 slow in nickel, but this is getting me bent! Please someone make me feel stupid on this!
Post by: wraithen on November 28, 2011, 08:41:01 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 09:19:15 PM
Post by: wraithen on November 28, 2011, 09:29:01 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 28, 2011, 10:11:05 PM
How about some specs on the entire AR front to back. How old is it? What factory ammo are you shooting through it, what has worked and was has not worked?
Need more info.......
Thanks,
Gary
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 28, 2011, 10:51:58 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 29, 2011, 06:00:47 AM
First off, just be aware, DPMS may not honor the warranty if you told them that you have run reloaded ammo through it. They state that in their warranty clause. If they are willing to accept it for return for repairs, you are going to need to install the factory fire control group. If you send it back to them with your new wiz bang fire control group in it, it's likely you will not get it returned to you with your new one still in it. It has to do with civil liability and once they take possession of it, it becomes their responsibility to be 100 percent certain it is safe per their lawyers. Plus they may charge you for a new stock fire control group. So please remove your new one and send it back with stock components.
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This DPMS Firearms, LLC firearm is warranted to the original retail customer for Three Years from the date of purchase against defects in material and workmanship. All parts and labor or replacement at our option are covered.
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Altering or modifying parts is dangerous and will void the warranty. This DPMS Firearms, LLC rifle was manufactured to perform properly with the original parts as designed. It is your duty to make sure any parts you buy are made for this rifle and are installed correctly and that neither the originals nor the replacements are altered or changed. Your DPMS Firearms, LLC rifle is a complex precision tool with many parts that must relate correctly with other parts in order for proper and safe operation. Putting a rifle together wrong or with incorrect or modified parts can result in a damaged rifle, serious personal injury or death to you and others through malfunction. Always have a qualified gunsmith work on your rifle or at least check any work not performed by a gunsmith.
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To achieve the best results for accuracy you should clean the chamber and bore after every round for the first 25 rounds, then every 10 rounds up to 100 rounds. It usually takes about 200 rounds per barrel for optimum accuracy. Please keep in mind that our barrels are production barrels, not custom barrels. Accuracy is dependent upon many factors such as bullet weight, powder load, rifling twist, rifling lands, operator technique, etc. Our production barrels have achieved anywhere from .125" to 1.5" M.O.A.. Obviously, we would hope that every production barrel would shoot .5" M.O.A., but with all of the above factors, we cannot guarantee a specific group size. NOTE: Using reloaded ammunition will void warranty. Modifying chamber or barrel voids warranty. This includes re-reaming of chamber, re-turning barrel to a lesser diameter and/or re-threading barrel for compensator or attachments.
A Note on Receiver Fit
DPMS lowers have been designed for a tight fit between the upper and lower. You may find that the rear takedown pin hole may need to be polished or honed. We feel that a tight fit is better than a loose fit. We hope you agree.
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 29, 2011, 06:47:21 AM
Post by: demontang on November 29, 2011, 07:42:25 AM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on November 29, 2011, 07:53:21 AM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 29, 2011, 04:36:16 PM
Post by: FC on November 29, 2011, 04:42:23 PM
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 29, 2011, 08:07:29 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 30, 2011, 06:37:25 AM
Post by: high country on November 30, 2011, 06:59:53 AM
Post by: wraithen on November 30, 2011, 10:57:40 AM
Post by: FC on November 30, 2011, 12:25:43 PM
After talking to Carl at BlackHole weaponry, he made a comment one day that he throws DPMS barrels in the trash can so at least I know what he thinks of them.
Why is that?
Post by: high country on November 30, 2011, 05:11:58 PM
Post by: wraithen on November 30, 2011, 05:17:43 PM
Not to mention that I've never heard of any problems with BHW barrels.
Post by: FC on November 30, 2011, 05:41:58 PM
I bet it has nothing to do with him making ar barrels....lol.
I'm guessing that is the biggest reason!
As a note to the OP here, I have a dpms upper myself and so far it has been insanely accurate with ammo that it likes and pretty good with almost anything else. An insane group by the way is 10 shots that you can easily cover with a dime at 100m, after shooting factory ammo that well I lost all interest in handloading for it.
Post by: 204chucknorris on November 30, 2011, 05:53:05 PM
Post by: FALFire on November 30, 2011, 07:13:33 PM
I bet it has nothing to do with him making ar barrels....lol.
I'm guessing that is the biggest reason!
Hey....Just got back from Spokane.
Yeah, I thought that too when Carl told me that, I figured he hated the competition so bad he simply junked the barrels. When I asked him if he had any that he wanted to trash out for the day I would be happy to take them off his hands. He just looked at me and smiled....
All of the DPMS barrels I have ever used were tack drivers, including the 308's. And the one and only Black Hole barrel I ever owned has been the worst shooter I have ever had, I finally just gave up on it and it sits on an uncompleted upper right now. I doubt that I will ever be purchasing another. I'll stick with Dtech or WOA for all of my custom barrels. Heck even my Model 1 Sales barrel shot better than the BHW stuff.
Post by: 204chucknorris on December 05, 2011, 07:31:52 AM
Post by: FC on December 05, 2011, 09:56:39 AM
Post by: wraithen on December 05, 2011, 10:02:19 AM
Maybe after a couple ten thousand rounds you will have a little extra space to use reloads? Just think of all those reloaded rounds you'd have made by then!
Post by: FALFire on December 05, 2011, 03:47:56 PM
Post by: 700xcr on December 06, 2011, 07:32:25 PM
Post by: AWS on December 08, 2011, 06:52:44 PM
AWS
Post by: Wile E. Hunter on December 08, 2011, 07:05:01 PM
BTW, it's a 20" Stainless bull with 1-7.7 Krieger cut rifled. It's a 1/4 minute tack driver.
Wile E.