Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 11:48:04 AM
What the hell? I'm not made of money and can't keep going through brand after brand. There has to be something else going on.
Shooting an Archery Research AR-34 set at 28" draw. Have had it set from 40lbs all the way up to 67lbs. Everytime I change a draw weight (due to shoulder injury, I've had to go from heavy to lighter), I've had it tuned. I'd blame the arrows except, like I said, field points hit within an inch or 2 at 20 yards. BH go low/right, low/left, high/center, completely missing the target, and all points in between.
Post by: GoldTip on November 29, 2011, 12:07:30 PM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on November 29, 2011, 12:14:01 PM
Using field points, shoot a group at 20 yards, then shoot 2 bareshaft arrows and see where they hit in comparison to the fletched arrows (make sure you use field points!). This will tell you if your arrows are spined correctly for your bow. Tuning the bow is important but have the corretc spined arrows is also very very important. Incorrectly spined arrows will show more of an issue with BH's....
Post by: JKEEN33 on November 29, 2011, 12:19:40 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 12:32:45 PM
Post by: coachcw on November 29, 2011, 12:34:09 PM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on November 29, 2011, 12:38:21 PM
I would shoot at more than just 20 yards also. A shop tuning a bow usually just gets you in the ballpark. The further you shoot the more you are going to see how far off the bow is. Use your field tips from 20 out to 60. Once they are on then start tuning the broadheads.
I agree but first he should try bareshafting at 20... just to make sure the arrows are correct for his bow.... need to eliminate the arrow kick before you try any more distance.
Post by: pianoman9701 on November 29, 2011, 12:44:00 PM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on November 29, 2011, 12:49:16 PM
Post by: D-Rock425 on November 29, 2011, 12:53:03 PM
Post by: KillBilly on November 29, 2011, 12:53:13 PM
Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts. Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards. With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin. With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle
I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for a 26-29 inch shaft.
Post by: KillBilly on November 29, 2011, 12:54:23 PM
All the broadheads you have named are JUNK :dunno: :chuckle: Buy some WASP and join the real killers :chuckle: :chuckle: OL Cant wait to see what this brings :chuckle: :chuckle: :sry: :hello:
Buy a can of Wasp Spray when you go to the store....
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on November 29, 2011, 12:55:01 PM
Its a tuning problem not a broadhead problem.Geeeeeez man thats all you want to say ...thats boring :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on November 29, 2011, 12:55:32 PM
All the broadheads you have named are JUNK :dunno: :chuckle: Buy some WASP and join the real killers :chuckle: :chuckle: OL Cant wait to see what this brings :chuckle: :chuckle: :sry: :hello::chuckle: :chuckle: :bash:
Buy a can of Wasp Spray when you go to the store....
Post by: D-Rock425 on November 29, 2011, 12:59:50 PM
Post by: JLS on November 29, 2011, 01:00:10 PM
What kind of fletching? Offset, helical, straight? A straight fletch won't stabilize broadheads nearly as well and could contribute to your problem.
I think you are a little light on the spine, but bareshaft to check.
Check for fletching contact with lipstick or some foot spray.
Have someone else shoot your bow to see if it is you.
Post by: BULLBLASTER on November 29, 2011, 01:10:23 PM
Post by: christopheri on November 29, 2011, 01:19:34 PM
Post by: sirmissalot on November 29, 2011, 01:54:17 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 02:17:29 PM
All the broadheads you have named are JUNK :dunno: :chuckle: Buy some WASP and join the real killers :chuckle: :chuckle: OL Cant wait to see what this brings :chuckle: :chuckle: :sry: :hello:
I knew this was coming :chuckle:
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 02:19:32 PM
Post by: sirmissalot on November 29, 2011, 02:27:35 PM
Post by: BowBender87 on November 29, 2011, 02:36:05 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 02:48:46 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 02:52:50 PM
Post by: JLS on November 29, 2011, 02:59:54 PM
For the price of the NAPs you can probably buy an Arizona EZ Fletch and do your own. If I can do it, you can. Superglue, beer, and some directions off the internet.
Are the quickfletches helical or straight? You don't need four vanes, but it won't hurt. Just depends on if you can still get vane clearance with four. Three 4" vanes with a decent offset and helical will stabilize any of those broadheads just fine.
First thing you should do is bareshaft to check spine, then check for vane contact, then have a buddy shoot your bow.
You'll get it figured out.
Post by: BowBender87 on November 29, 2011, 03:36:30 PM
Post by: JLS on November 29, 2011, 03:44:01 PM
I guess we should have asked, do you know how to tune your bow for BH flight?
Post by: D-Rock425 on November 29, 2011, 03:45:14 PM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on November 29, 2011, 03:48:41 PM
Post by: D-Rock425 on November 29, 2011, 03:51:37 PM
Post by: sirmissalot on November 29, 2011, 04:03:01 PM
Post by: Button Nubbs on November 29, 2011, 04:28:23 PM
Post by: BOWHUNTER45 on November 29, 2011, 04:37:53 PM
BROADHEAD TUNE!:yeah: :chuckle:
Post by: sakoshooter on November 29, 2011, 05:33:55 PM
OK, I'm on my 5th set of broadheads and none of them are flying right. What else could be the problem? My field points are dead on. I spin test every arrow after putting on a BH and they are good. I've tried Muzzy 3 blade 100 gn and 125gn, Magnus stingers 100gn and 125gn, and NAP Hellrazor 100gn.
What the hell? I'm not made of money and can't keep going through brand after brand. There has to be something else going on.
Shooting an Archery Research AR-34 set at 28" draw. Have had it set from 40lbs all the way up to 67lbs. Everytime I change a draw weight (due to shoulder injury, I've had to go from heavy to lighter), I've had it tuned. I'd blame the arrows except, like I said, field points hit within an inch or 2 at 20 yards. BH go low/right, low/left, high/center, completely missing the target, and all points in between.
Hey Double J, Check out this link: http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf
Go to Chapter 6, Shot Tuning. After a quick paper tune, go to Walk Back Tuning. Your field point arrows will fly better plus your broadhead arrows will fly pretty darn close to your field points. Hope it helps ol buddy.
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 06:29:41 PM
Using a different broadhead will be a waste of money.
For the price of the NAPs you can probably buy an Arizona EZ Fletch and do your own. If I can do it, you can. Superglue, beer, and some directions off the internet.
Are the quickfletches helical or straight? You don't need four vanes, but it won't hurt. Just depends on if you can still get vane clearance with four. Three 4" vanes with a decent offset and helical will stabilize any of those broadheads just fine.
First thing you should do is bareshaft to check spine, then check for vane contact, then have a buddy shoot your bow.
You'll get it figured out.
Slight helical. Not much, just enough to notice. And I have a Hostage rest that I LOVE LOVE LOVE. Only 3 gaps on it.
Post by: DoubleJ on November 29, 2011, 06:36:46 PM
Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts. Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards. With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin. With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle
I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for a 26-29 inch shaft.
I've been using the Wolverine Hunter 60/70 from Wal Mart. Never had this issue in the past. In fact, I loved them last year and earlier this year. Using the same ones from last year.
Post by: JLS on November 29, 2011, 07:03:23 PM
Do you know how to tune for broadheads?
Have you had someone watch your form?
I'm thinking a form issue that might be exacerbated by slightly weak spine and not much helical.
Post by: mallard79 on November 29, 2011, 08:21:37 PM
Some great advice and offers on here, you'll get it figured out. If you were closer I would offer to help figure it out. Good luck.
Post by: bowkid on December 01, 2011, 12:51:33 PM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on December 01, 2011, 01:03:55 PM
Sounds like you need to tune the b/h to the vains on the arrow, just look it up on the net, worked for me.
Aligning broadhead blades to vanes on an arrow does absolutely nothing to affect arrow flight... it does help them fit in the quiver better though.
Post by: DoubleJ on December 01, 2011, 01:07:17 PM
Sounds like you need to tune the b/h to the vains on the arrow, just look it up on the net, worked for me.
Already done. Did not help.
Post by: huntingfamily on December 01, 2011, 04:32:47 PM
Post by: ashersdad on December 02, 2011, 02:16:18 AM
Post by: luckyman on December 02, 2011, 05:40:08 AM
Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts. Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards. With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin. With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle
I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for a 26-29 inch shaft.
I had the same issue. I was shooting 400 @ 65lb's and field point shoot well but broadhead were anywhere but on target.
It wasn't a tuning issue with the bow, just to weak spine.
I went to 340's and bingo! Dead on.
Post by: DoubleJ on December 02, 2011, 07:18:53 AM
Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts. Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards. With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin. With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle
I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for a 26-29 inch shaft.
I had the same issue. I was shooting 400 @ 65lb's and field point shoot well but broadhead were anywhere but on target.
It wasn't a tuning issue with the bow, just to weak spine.
I went to 340's and bingo! Dead on.
After talking with about 3 people on PM, I've come to the conclusion that this is probably it.
Post by: KillBilly on December 02, 2011, 07:43:07 AM
An arrow's spine deflection is the arrow's measured resistance to bending. Basically ... an arrow's spine rating tells you how stiff the arrow is. As you may know, arrows should neither be too limber or too stiff. For proper safety and best performance, the arrow spine must be matched to the output of the bow. Arrows which are too stiff or too limber will not fly well and will degrade the accuracy of your bow. Arrows which are dramatically underspined (way too limber) can even present a failure hazard. So selecting the proper arrow spine is very important.
According to the modern standards (ASTM F2031-05) an arrow's official spine deflection is measured by hanging a 1.94 lb. weight in the center of a 28" suspended section of the arrow shaft (not to be confused with the old AMO standard of 2 lb. and 26"). The actual distance the 1.94 lb. weight causes the shaft to sag down is the arrow's actual spine deflection. For example, if a 1.94 lb. weight causes the center of a 28" arrow to sag down 1/2 inch (.500"). Then the arrow's spine deflection would be .500". Stiffer arrows will, of course, sag less. More limber arrows will sag more. So the stiffer the arrow is, the LOWER its spine deflection measurement will be. The more limber an arrow is, the HIGHER its spine deflection measurement will be.
Post by: h20hunter on December 02, 2011, 07:48:03 AM
KillBilly......perfect explanation and probably the most cleary put. I learned something new...thanks for posting it.
Post by: KillBilly on December 02, 2011, 08:44:06 AM
There goes another "know it all" spouting stats and figures...........My Pleasure :archery_smiley:
KillBilly......perfect explanation and probably the most cleary put. I learned something new...thanks for posting it.