Post by: MIKEXRAY on July 14, 2008, 12:20:52 PM
Post by: Todd_ID on July 16, 2008, 10:09:59 PM
Once your form is under control, then you can number your arrows to see if any of them are consistent fliers. If you find that number 5 is always outside the group, then you can rotate the nock 45 degrees and try again. Keep rotating it until it groups with the rest; generally you'll be able to get it whipped into shape this way. Another way to do this is to build a spine tester and put the stiff part of the spine in the same aspect on every arrow. This is assuming that the arrow/broadhead combination spins with no wobble.
Post by: WonkyWapiti on August 17, 2008, 01:53:20 AM
Post by: MIKEXRAY on August 17, 2008, 05:58:11 AM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on August 17, 2008, 08:12:49 PM
Post by: MIKEXRAY on August 19, 2008, 02:22:06 AM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on August 20, 2008, 02:25:39 AM
Post by: nw_bowhunter on August 20, 2008, 07:59:04 AM
Post by: MIKEXRAY on August 20, 2008, 09:49:00 AM
Post by: Todd_ID on August 20, 2008, 11:03:53 AM
Another weird thing is I have the spot hog wrap around sight with the wire down the middle. My 20,30,40 are perfectly centered but I had to move my 50 & 60 yards pins slightly left of center wire. I am drilling the center out of my target. I assume that I am getting slight drift at longer distances due to arrow spin or ? Not complaining shooting great, but sights are funny to look at with 50 & 60 slightly (minuscule) off. Keep working Wonky sound like you are dialing in. I also took Todd Id's advice and numbered my arrow, I shot each new arrow with broadheads at 50 yards and had two that were missing center by a foot. Never did get them to shoot any broadhead acuurately. Would of sucked to shoot either of those at an animal. He saved my ass with that advice. Mike
Thanks for the good review on a tip. I've been at this game quite a while, and I've made every possible mistake in shooting, tuning and hunting. I'm happy to hear that I may have saved somebody a bit of frustration this year.
Without being there next to you while shooting, I'll try to do the best I can to put you at the 100% confidence level.
The clarity of the pin is an issue, but I'm more inclined to think that the tuning is such that the 40 yard point happens to be where a harmonic is in a tiny corkscrewing effect of the arrow flight making the impact point unpredictable. You probably can't see the corkscrewing, but from the other symptoms I can tell that it most likely is. This won't show up in paper tuning, nor will the 50 and 60 pins being offset. I'll bet a dollar to a donut that you need to move your rest 1/32" to the right. However, canting your bow will cause the same problems you've talked about. Before doing anything, make sure that you are looking at the level and that it is indeed centered when you're shooting.
One way to find this out (if your rest needs adjustment) is to try a walkback tune. Pick a spot at the top of the target. Use you 20 yard pin and shoot it from 20, 30, 40 yards using the same pin for each shot and shooting at the same point. I think you'll find that the arrows don't fall in a perfectly vertical line like this | but more in a slant like this / . It sounds like you aren't very far off, so you'll only need to move the rest a tiny bit. Moving the rest right will get your longer pins to be | instead of / also. Basically, a rest that is out of alignment will shoot farther and farther off of the vertical line the farther you go back.
Another way to do this (find the perfect centershot) is to do a modified french tuning. This is done by shooting at three yards and again at 10-12 yards. At the 3 yard distance, shoot at a hanging string and move the sight only until you can hit it exactly. Then move back to 10-12 yards and move the rest only until you hit exactly on the string. Then move up to 3 yards again and move the sight only until you hit it. Move back to the farther distance and move the rest only until you hit it. After a couple sets of 3 yard and 10-12 yard shooting, you'll hit it at both yardages with no adjustment necessary, and you'll have the rest in the perfect position left-right and the sight frame will also be set on the perfect left-right center. All that is left is to check the vertical position of the rest and set the pin gaps for the different distances. This is the method I use to get the centershot correct on my bow or any of my buddies that I work on.
Paper tuning is generally pretty good for finding nock position up/down, so I'd say you're probably pretty good there since you're shooting well through paper. The best way to tell is to shoot 2 broadheads and 2 field points side by side. If the broadheads are consistently low, then the rest needs to go up or the nock point down. If the broadheads hit higher than the field points, then you need to move the rest down or the nock up. Tiny adjustments up and down show up big downrange, so keep any adjustments minute.
Lastly, numbering the arrows has shown which arrows don't group with the rest. You can take that information and start turning the nocks 45 degrees to see if you can get them to come back into the group. Most arrows can be brought back into the group this way. What you are doing is moving the seam of the arrow to a different position, thus you are changing the positioning of the static and dynamic spine of the arrow. You can only see this by using a spine tester, so shooting the groups and turning nocks is a good substitute for a complicated piece of equipment.
Good luck, and I'm anxiously awaiting a story and some pictures from archery hunting this year!
Post by: LC Hunter on August 20, 2008, 05:13:48 PM