Post by: Dirty Mike on December 30, 2011, 05:50:30 AM
Post by: D-Rock425 on December 30, 2011, 06:20:40 AM
Post by: DoubleJ on December 30, 2011, 06:40:57 AM
edit: If possible, i.e. you're buying arrows un-fletched, have them "Center cut" the arrow, taking an equal amount off of each end.
Post by: DoubleJ on December 30, 2011, 06:42:11 AM
Post by: JLS on December 30, 2011, 07:17:24 AM
Nock a full length arrow and pull it back to full draw. Then have someone make a mark with a sharpie about 1/2" past furthest forward point of the arrow rest. un-nock the arrow and remove the nock. measure from the back of the arrow to where the mark is and round up to the nearest 1/2". If it came in at 27 3/4", have them cut at 28". Doing it this way, your arrow length will not be as long as your draw length but it won't cause any problems.
edit: If possible, i.e. you're buying arrows un-fletched, have them "Center cut" the arrow, taking an equal amount off of each end.
A caveat with this method is how comfortable you are having the broadhead behind your bow hand. I am not. I like mine to extend about 1" past the leading edge of the riser/grip.
Post by: DoubleJ on December 30, 2011, 07:19:22 AM
Nock a full length arrow and pull it back to full draw. Then have someone make a mark with a sharpie about 1/2" past furthest forward point of the arrow rest. un-nock the arrow and remove the nock. measure from the back of the arrow to where the mark is and round up to the nearest 1/2". If it came in at 27 3/4", have them cut at 28". Doing it this way, your arrow length will not be as long as your draw length but it won't cause any problems.
edit: If possible, i.e. you're buying arrows un-fletched, have them "Center cut" the arrow, taking an equal amount off of each end.
A caveat with this method is how comfortable you are having the broadhead behind your bow hand. I am not. I like mine to extend about 1" past the leading edge of the riser/grip.
That is true. The shelf on my bow is massive. Too big in my opinion but, it does offer that protection. I have no worries about it personally.
Post by: JLS on December 30, 2011, 07:21:03 AM
Post by: bloodhound on December 30, 2011, 09:15:45 AM
Post by: Button Nubbs on December 30, 2011, 11:03:59 AM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on December 30, 2011, 11:48:02 AM
Arrow length is directly related to spine. I would recommend finding someone with a program like archers advantage and having them run your specs so you can get the optimal spine. :twocents::yeah: I don't really care how long my arrows are as long as they shoot broadheads and field tips exactly the same. It is amazing how much 1/2 inch can affect spine. And therefore arrow flight.
Post by: bloodhound on December 30, 2011, 11:48:24 AM
Arrow length is directly related to spine. I would recommend finding someone with a program like archers advantage and having them run your specs so you can get the optimal spine. :twocents:
but that can be tweaked. you can use a longer arrow and use a stiffer spine if you have to. so its not really directly related to spine. you just have to figure out your arrow length and poundage then find the arrow spine that fits that category.
Post by: pianoman9701 on December 30, 2011, 11:55:10 AM
Post by: DoubleJ on December 30, 2011, 11:57:50 AM
I've been fletching my own arrows for years and have never heard of "center-cutting" shafts. Please elaborate on this.
Read it in a magazine a few years ago. If your stock arrows are 36" and you need them 26", you have the cutter cut 5" from each end. Theory is that most of the flaws in the shaft are at one or the other end and that the center of the shaft is "More true" so to speak.
Post by: Button Nubbs on December 30, 2011, 11:58:51 AM
Post by: pianoman9701 on December 30, 2011, 01:49:10 PM
I've been fletching my own arrows for years and have never heard of "center-cutting" shafts. Please elaborate on this.
Read it in a magazine a few years ago. If your stock arrows are 36" and you need them 26", you have the cutter cut 5" from each end. Theory is that most of the flaws in the shaft are at one or the other end and that the center of the shaft is "More true" so to speak.
Very cool. I learned something new today. Thanks DJ. I don't know why everyone always says you're so dumb! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: JLS on December 30, 2011, 01:59:16 PM
Post by: hughjorgan on December 30, 2011, 02:24:43 PM
Post by: DoubleJ on December 30, 2011, 05:02:14 PM
I've been fletching my own arrows for years and have never heard of "center-cutting" shafts. Please elaborate on this.
Read it in a magazine a few years ago. If your stock arrows are 36" and you need them 26", you have the cutter cut 5" from each end. Theory is that most of the flaws in the shaft are at one or the other end and that the center of the shaft is "More true" so to speak.
Very cool. I learned something new today. Thanks DJ. I don't know why everyone always says you're so dumb! :chuckle: :chuckle:
LOL. I don't know if it's fact or superstition or if it actually helps at all but, hey, why not?
Post by: pianoman9701 on December 30, 2011, 06:28:53 PM