Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: wraithen on January 16, 2012, 12:17:19 PM
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Ok so I was driving around the state land near eatonville/elbe and I was on the main road. I saw where someone before me had a little trouble going up the next hill so I stopped and put my xterra in 4 hi. I started going up and then started spinning so I stepped on the brake. I went from not moving at all to sliding backwards. I decided I wanted some semblance of control so I threw it in revers (or so I thought.) After I came to a stop I hit the gas to back up a little. Apparently I pushed on setting too far and I was in park. I was in park and was just sliding down the hill, ABS not even knowing we were in motion. I backed up and decided to try again with some more speed. I got about 2 feet farther up the hill and started going backwards again. This time gravity decided to pull me towards the edge of the cliff and I'm just along for the ride. I wasn't on the brake, I threw it in neutral and still couldn't even steer the rear end away from the cliff. This is gonna hurt a lot! Luckily I stopped about 6 inches from the side of the cliff. I slowly backed down on the road and decided the coyotes didn't need to die that badly. I cleaned out my underpants and went to the only stand that wasn't past the hill. Now it's time to find a good set of traction devices.
So what's the preferred device for what I'm trying to accomplish? What are the pros vs the cons of tire chains vs tire cables? I would think chains are what I'm wanting but I've never had to deal with this before. Usually blizzaks are all that I need and more. I don't think they will cut it this time.
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chains,nuff said :tup:
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My personal preference is the quick fit chains that you can buy at Les Schwab. If you are stuck you can put them on without having to back on or pull on to them. I had to use mine a couple of weekends ago just outside of Elbe.
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Depends on what you drive. Cable chains are best used for cars, 2wd trucks that are on paved roads. the advantage they have is they are CHEEP, and easy to install and take off. They are not as industrial as link chains nor get as good of traction. Link Chains are normally used in offroad, or snowed over gravel roads out in the deep. They get better traction, and last longer. However they cost more and are more difficult to put on and its important to adjust them to the right tension so they don't come off or are too tight... Hope that helps a pair for most sizes can be had for under $100
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Some big heavy laclede ice biters with v bars. Cables are disposable. You think sliding sucked....try driving without brakes because you saved $40 on a set of cables and snapped one and wiped out a brake line, speed sensor and a fender.....seen it. Chains can break, but you have to go full tard or plain fail to check them before use.
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There are some good threads on this. The cables are good for pavement and slush. Once off the pavement I like chains. For the westside, seems when we do get the cold days and snow it will come over a series of days where the temperature cycles above and below freezing--snow/rain/snow, leaving layer and layer of slush-ice unlike the eastside which will stay below freezing and have deeper but solid packed snow. The better chains (IMO) for wetside that I've played with are the bigger chains, the diamond tread, and the ice-breaker chains that have V-bar claws that dig in. Most were about $90-$100 for a pair (so $200 for the whole set). Schwab, Discount tire, anyplace like that should have something good for forest roads.
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Chains all the way. Plus, when in the snow/ice, air down your tires to about 15psi. It will make a world of difference. I run mine on the Jeep at 5psi when snow wheeling. HUGE foot print.
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If I need them, I want chains on my Expedition. Cables like others have said, are for cars and small 2wd trucks. Real chains will chop thru ice and give you traction when nothing else will. You just have to slow down and not drive crazy with them on.
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I put on some chains that are ice cutters. Damn what a difference. I have a 1996 GMC Yukon 4x4. When this weather is out it is slippery. I grew up in Northern MN and driving in this stuff is totally different. Here is a little story of my opening day of elk hunting this year. Hope you all like it. I was in the same position as you wraithen.
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So where at in Mn?
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Every truck / jeep I have ever owned was equiped with.....2 sets (4 total) CHAIN, and 1 set (2 total) les schwab HEAVY DUTY quick fit chains.
I use the quick fit for road driving when necessary or for very light snow or ice in the mountains. Only buy their heavy duty set and still be careful, I have broke these chains when trying to pull someone out of a ditch. I was trying to get by without putting on my big chains and it cost me $120. The Chains are for mud, snow, ice, etc, etc. If you can afford it one set of your chains should have diamond cut ice scratchers. Don't be cheap when you are dealing with your life and property.
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I wish I could find the picture from last year. Its of a Honda with chains on the rear wheels only. :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
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I wish I could find the picture from last year. Its of a Honda with chains on the rear wheels only. :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
We hunt the Swakane unit late archery, We saw a ton of people with 4 wheel drive vehicles with chains on the rear only. I thought maybe there was a new trend that I was unaware of???? :dunno:
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I wish I could find the picture from last year. Its of a Honda with chains on the rear wheels only. :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
...............with California license plates ?
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Were you comin in from scott turner and goin up the big hill on the way to the top? Ive been stuck on that hill a few times as well in my younger days :chuckle:
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You need to look in the owners manual. A lot of the newer rigs (even trucks) don't have enough clearance to run chains and are limited to cables. There are even a few that have so little clearance you can't use cables.
You need to remember its not just clearance on the tires,but brake lines,suspension parts,etc.
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The quick fit chains don't hold up to much heavy use. I broke mine yesterday in the woods, I'm gonna try out the heavy duty chains next, but under normal conditions they work great.
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i have a full set of heavy duty big truck tire chains for my powerstroke but ive never actually put them on other than to test fit. been pushin snow with the grill and never needed t hang the iron...
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I wish I could find the picture from last year. Its of a Honda with chains on the rear wheels only. :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
I'm guessing it also had a rear wing/towel rack bolted to the trunk lid for down force on that front wheel drive car.
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Were you comin in from scott turner and goin up the big hill on the way to the top? Ive been stuck on that hill a few times as well in my younger days :chuckle:
Hit the nail on the head. You guys are right about the snow here. I thought I was above all this freaking out about the white stuff. I still am when I'm on pavement but that hill just about made my day painful. Looks like chains all the way and if I can swing it at least a set with the ice scrapers. Should I put the better set up front for maneuverability or in the rear for stopping and going?
I'll double check my owners manual and make sure there's nothing weird. I know I have plenty of fender clearance but I know what you mean about other odd things to hit. Nissan screwed us with wheel selection because of how they designed the brake rotors.
Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate all the advice. I'll be better prepared next time.
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Also, try to get a set of chains where your tire size is in the middle of the size chart. I've got a pair that my tire size is the largest they will fit. They are a bear to get on because they BARELY fit. It's a pita to get those ends to link together, especially since you don't put them on till you need them. Nothing like struggling to get them hooked up while laying in snow/slush and fingers freezing.
I've bought a second set where my tires are in the middle of the minimum and maximum size they fit, and they are a lot easier to put on because I've got a couple of extra links to hook up to. Also, doesn't hurt to have a chunk of 4x4 to drive up on. You can hook them up without doing the drive forward/backup dance. It's annoying to come to a stop on a cross link and not be able to move them around, back up to get off of it and roll onto another one.
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Get a good set with cam tensioners that are tightened with a T-handle. :twocents:
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You need to look in the owners manual. A lot of the newer rigs (even trucks) don't have enough clearance to run chains and are limited to cables. There are even a few that have so little clearance you can't use cables.
You need to remember its not just clearance on the tires,but brake lines,suspension parts,etc.
Found that out with the wife's 09 Traverse. The owners manual says no chains only "traction devices" and only if the mfr recommends use on the vehicle/tire combo.
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I put on some chains that are ice cutters. Damn what a difference. I have a 1996 GMC Yukon 4x4. When this weather is out it is slippery.
Thank you! As a life long resident of the Puget Sound area, I get sick of hearing about how none of us know how to drive in snow. This too often comes from residents of say, Quincy or Othello. Winter driving in the prairie states or the Columbia basin is nothing like the megalopolis with a coating of snow.
There are a lot of idiots here though.
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Chains without question, and don't buy the cheapo 3.5 mm chain size either. Go for 5.5mm or larger. Got a second set this year so I've done quite a bit of shopping around. Best deal right now seams to be online RUD grip 4X4's... $98 delivered a set.
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Security Chain Company (SCC) makes chains specifically designed for minimal clearance vehicles. I used a set on an AWD sedan.once and they.were awesome. Drove straight on up paved hills covered with snow and ice.
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So where at in Mn?
North East MN near Ely.
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Something else i would like to say about chains. If you Nut up and buy an expensive set of Icebreaker chains for all four corners, there is NO reason to buy a tire that is more aggressive than an all season. All season tires wear better than MT style tires. The bigger the void in the rubber the quicker they wear, period... So a set of decent chains run you $300. That difference is made up in 1 set of tires for your truck. If you don't abuse your quality chains they will last you a long time... Much longer than a set of tires or 2.... I have chains for all my rigs I have cables for my 2wd 1 ton that drives the passes and link for my 4x4...
Just came off Blue Mt near Acme WA We chained up my bros Mech shop truck 4x4 F350 up front, and let me tell ya it took a steep grade at knee deep snow. I also 2nd the D cam tensioners they reduce the ammount of time getting proper tightness.
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4wd use chains. front wheel drive use cables. learn how to put them on without a jack and BEFORE you actually need them...
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We hunt the Swakane unit late archery, We saw a ton of people with 4 wheel drive vehicles with chains on the rear only. I thought maybe there was a new trend that I was unaware of???? :dunno:
For some 4wd vehicles, the manufacturers specify in the manual that chains can ONLY BE USED ON THE REAR.
I don't use chains much but I've found the quick fit style from Les Schwab to be very easy to put on. My 2wd pickup performs better than I expected with them on.
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I went and recovered a friend who had slid off the side of a steep road a couple nights ago. As I got there in my F350, the hill was so steep and compact snow/ice that I could not stop. I slid about 200 yards past them and finally got the truck stopped and was able to turn around in a road that went to a field. There was no way I could go back up the hill with just tires. So I chained up the front and it walked right up. I was able to pull them up out of the side hill they had gone off of, then pull them the rest of the way up the hill. I then switched to the rear of their vehicle and acted as a brake. There is no way either of us would of made it out had I not been chained up. The road was so slick you could not even stand on it. I could only imagine how long cable chains would of lasted (less than a minute) in that situation. Plus, I don't think they make cable chains for anything that big.
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i ordered low profile chains for my f-150 from tirechains.com (I think thats it) before I left florida, and it has been a well spent 50$... on a 2wd ford. my wifes saturn suv they say you cant put chains on.. not enough clearance from the brake lines or something..
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Drove all day today with chains on the front. I didn't think I'd need them, but took them anyway. Good thing I did, since this is my first winter with a Duramax and not a Cummins :chuckle: I've had them since 2001 and never had use for them, so I had no instructions or anything. Slapped them on, and away I went. Then, on the way out of the woods after shooting in a little quarry, I picked up my gear and started off. Heard a weird noise on the driverside and got out to look busted one of the hooks. Now, reading this thread, I realize I have the D-ring cam-tensioner set but didn't know how to use them :bash: Not only did I break that link, I ripped the ABS line off the wheel and STILL had to get the hell up a big hill. Made it somehow. Wish I'd seen this thread last night so I could figure out what I needed to do to fit the chains properly :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:
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Well thanks to wintergeddon this year I pulled a full bore retard moment. I was backing into my parking spot and couldn't move so I threw her in 4hi. Parked easy as could be. Went out the next day and drove all over looking for an indoor safe non-electric heater. Finally found one. Drove around about 4 hours yesterday so proud of my traction control system until I looked down at my drive indicator on my guages. It showed all 4 wheels getting power. I left her in 4hi and drove her on the highway (luckily traffic wouldn't allow faster than 50) and on clean roads. :bash: :bash: :bash: Not so happy with myself at the moment.
