Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: jetboatinghunter on January 28, 2012, 11:04:42 AM
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I am in the process of purchasing a .300 magnum, and will top it with a Leupold VX III 4.5-14. I am planning on getting the CDS dials.
I want to figure out which bullet shoots best out of it, then go and buy the dials for it. I want one bullet, that will shoot elk, mule deer, bears and the occasional moose. I get confused when I look at all of the different offerings. I don't handload, so it would have to be something I could buy over the counter. I would like the ability to shoot to 50-500 yards, and consistently kill something. I have looked at the Bergers, E-Tips, Accubonds, Interbonds, etc. I am kind of old school, and like the Nosler Partitions, but it seems to me they may have faded out?
If you guys had to shoot one bullet for everything, for the rest of your life, what would it be? Thanks!
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Factory ammo........I'd start with Federal Premium 168 gr Barnes TTSX or 180 gr Accubond and see which shoots best. :twocents:
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Accubond, Interbond, or scirroco for me I'd want the best long range performance with that rig. Barnes are good but the BC is so bad compared to the others I wouldnt choose them for a long range bullet.
BTW, you dont have to buy the dial for the CDS, its free. You call them with the load information, elevation where you hunt, average temp and they send the dial for free.
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Bergers for me! Love em and one bullet put the smack down on my whitey this year at 653 yds out of my 7 mag! Hsm sells them in factory loads! :tup:
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Those would be something to think about for sure. Im working up a load in my 7STW and will be trying them.
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:tup: I think you'll love em!
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I think the diehard partition fans are still buying them but i think new guys coming in are looking for bullets with better BC's for longer range shooting which is getting more popular.
Accubond, perfect combination of high BC, bonded toughness, and mushroomability.
It would be wicked if they made a partition with a polymer tip and a boattail, but hat would be one long stinking bullet because some of the lead space is taken up by the copper "partition".
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What I have done, and works very well, is to buy 5 or 6 boxes of bullets from the different manufacturers. Shoot all of them (all the same grain bullet, say 180’s) and find out what groups the best in your rifle. Don't get caught up in all of the hype, if Remington Core-lokt's group the best, shoot them exclusively and don't worry about the rest.
It is a little expensive to begin with but once you know, you know, and it will be significantly less expensive then loading your own unless you shoot thousands of rounds/year.
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My only advice is my guns seem picky and you have to sample brands till you find some that works well. My .300 shoots Remington Scirrocos best. They are almost $60.00 a box but so far it has been the best grouping ammo.
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Found this on youtube. Good info on bullets.
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Personal preference, I don't feel you need a Barnes in the larger calibers. Smaller calibers yes. When a stout bullet is needed to Handle higher velocity impacts of lighter bullets and still provide penetration the Barnes fits the bill but so do others, barnes sure the hell isn't the cure all. As for .30 cal, any of the quality 150gr+ bullets will do what your asking it to do. Funny how many guys I see, that are new to hunting in the gun shop purchasing a new rifle for hunting buying factory ammo loaded with Barnes bullets, talking about how great the Barnes bullet is. When they have never even pulled the trigger on a big game animal. Barnes has done well with their advertising.
I have taken many big game animals over the last 25 years and I have used many bullets in the process. I was very fond of the Hornady Interlocks in the early years and still am but due to success in the field and accuracy Nosler has been my mainstay for many years and I have no doubt whatsoever when a Accubond is snuggly seated in the chamber, no matter what weight or bore diameter. Through first hand experience from point blank to extended ranges the Accubond kills like lightning and is just as accurate.
Then again Remington green box factory ammo accounts for more big game animals stuffed in the dirt per year than probably all other factory ammo combined and what bullet are they running in their basic stuff? CORE-LOKT!
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the FIRST CDS dial is free, after that its 50 or 60 bucks for each additional one
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My .300 win mag shoots 180 Accubonds lights out. I'm not big into the long range stuff so I don't know about details regarding that, but they work for me.
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Core Lokts come apart too easily and for that reason I would never recommend them to any serious hunter. Sure they work but why use a 2nd rate bullet when there are so many other better choices? Now at lower velocities they will do just fine, so that would be at longer distances, but if you're using them for long range shooting you've still got the wrong bullet because their BC's aren't that good. I really don't think you can go wrong with a Nosler Accubond or a Hornady Interbond, just go with whichever shoots best in your rifle. Barnes are great bullets too if you're not concerned with havign the very best BC's. A Barnes will penetrate all the way through an elk no matter the angle or the distance. For deer not so necessary but if you're talking elk, then that's more reason to go with Barnes. BC's don't really make any significant difference until you get well out past 400 yards shots, so for most people it does not matter.
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AccubotBarnes are good but the BC is so bad compared to the others I wouldnt choose them for a long range bullet.
The difference in trajectory at 500 yards between a 180 grain bullet at 2960 ft/sec zeroed at 250 yards with a BC of .4, and one with a BC of .5 is about 3".
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Bergers from Huntingshack.com in 168 gr. Mule deer at 592 yds with one shot and two elk with one shot apiece. They're killing fast and clean.
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:) 300WM(the real one) is my go to big game rifle and has been for over 30 years. Have killed a ton of game with it. I shoot 180 grain, no reason to use anything else- very good balance of velocity/penetration/mushroom/trajectory. I like Accubond, Partition,Barnes. In America, for game here, I think it matters not, just learn to shoot it. You did not ask but in my opinion the 4.5 minimum X power on the scope you chose is too high for a big game rifle go to the 3.5X10. :chuckle:
Carl
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If you're wanting to hunt moose I definatley wouldn't shoot any lighter than 180 grains :twocents:
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If you're wanting to hunt moose I definatley wouldn't shoot any lighter than 180 grains :twocents:
Moose are wusses. Seen plenty of them tipped over by much smaller. Watched a 14 year old girl crush a big boy with a .270 and a 130gr.
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AccubotBarnes are good but the BC is so bad compared to the others I wouldnt choose them for a long range bullet.
The difference in trajectory at 500 yards between a 180 grain bullet at 2960 ft/sec zeroed at 250 yards with a BC of .4, and one with a BC of .5 is about 3".
Not sure what your point is. If you build your entire rig around long range performance why not use a high b.c. bullet. I have nothing against Barnes, I use them. They wouldnt be my "long range bullet" choice. Just sayin.
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Accubonds would be your best bet :tup:
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I have shot nothing but Hornady 165 grn bullets since 1963. Most animals drop right there, but none have ever gone more than 15 feet. If you buy it in the box or reload, it is a proven preformer.
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AccubotBarnes are good but the BC is so bad compared to the others I wouldnt choose them for a long range bullet.
The difference in trajectory at 500 yards between a 180 grain bullet at 2960 ft/sec zeroed at 250 yards with a BC of .4, and one with a BC of .5 is about 3".
Not sure what your point is. If you build your entire rig around long range performance why not use a high b.c. bullet. I have nothing against Barnes, I use them. They wouldnt be my "long range bullet" choice. Just sayin.
Got no lead, got no soul lol.
Every time you buy a lead free bullet, an anti gets her picketing sign :(
I Know barnes as been around since before the antis were taking away hunting one bite at a time but it still doesnt help us keep our hunting priveledges by dumping money where the anti's push us rather than keeping lead bullets in demand so that the ammo manufacturers fight to keep them there which stops the antis from coming from that angle.
and no, how could they make a good long range bullet. Need high weight to get high BC and with no lead these things gotta be way long. thats why they cut those 3 grooves in the side. The bullets were getting so long that they had to do something to reduce the drag in the barrel. They probably get so long that you need an even tighter RoT like the VLD's.
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Thanks for all of the input. I am leaning towards the Nosler accubonds. Does anyone know how they are really different than the e tip?
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Thanks for all of the input. I am leaning towards the Nosler accubonds. Does anyone know how they are really different than the e tip?
The etip is an entirely different type of bullet. It is made of 100% copper, like Barnes bullets. The etip should penetrate better than the Accubond, and retain a higher percentage of its weight. It also likely does not expand quite as much or as easily as the Accubond.
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AccubotBarnes are good but the BC is so bad compared to the others I wouldnt choose them for a long range bullet.
The difference in trajectory at 500 yards between a 180 grain bullet at 2960 ft/sec zeroed at 250 yards with a BC of .4, and one with a BC of .5 is about 3".
Not sure what your point is. If you build your entire rig around long range performance why not use a high b.c. bullet. I have nothing against Barnes, I use them. They wouldnt be my "long range bullet" choice. Just sayin.
My point is that he already defined "long distance" as 500 yards, and at 500 yards the difference in trajectory due to BC is negligible..
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Addicted brings up an interesting point for discussion.
Berger VLD's rely heavily on the rate of twist in the barrel I think, and their bullet that shines regarding the super high BC is their 7mm bullet. How does their .30 cal bullets stack up#1, #2 are they a good hunting bullet or are they a good target bullet?--I think on deer it doesn't matter much but when you get up into the elk/moose/bear sized animals anyway, and #3 what's your rate of twist in the barrel and how much will that matter? I'm not a long range guy so I don't know the answers here, just raising some possible points for talk.
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If 500 is your ceiling for distance, any bullet from 150-210 will yeild good results from good shots. If you want to stretch the range, find the highest bc your rifle will shoot. The way I would roll on a 300 used for big game is to choose a 180 based on my guns liking. If you like nozzys and it loves sciroccos....you gonna take pride or accuracy? Shoot a bunch of bullets till you find one that works great. Imo a 20rd box is just barely enough to get a real taste of the relationship between rifle and bullet.
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Another note is the VLD's don't like to jump very much if at all. That makes it very hard to take a factory loaded berger and guarantee it shoots good.
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Addicted brings up an interesting point for discussion.
Berger VLD's rely heavily on the rate of twist in the barrel I think, and their bullet that shines regarding the super high BC is their 7mm bullet. How does their .30 cal bullets stack up#1, #2 are they a good hunting bullet or are they a good target bullet?--I think on deer it doesn't matter much but when you get up into the elk/moose/bear sized animals anyway, and #3 what's your rate of twist in the barrel and how much will that matter? I'm not a long range guy so I don't know the answers here, just raising some possible points for talk.
the Berger VLD is not a strong bullet, and they even claim to make it explode on purpose. But the reason it shines down range is because it is very accurate and has a great BC which helps keep it accurate, fast, and energized long range. It puts proof to the thought that 95% of killing an animal is putting the bullet in the right place.
between 7mm bullets and .338 bullets covering the weights and BC's that they do there is almost no need for 30 cal bullets.
a 7mm 140 boat tail has a BC of .485 which is nearly the .507 of the 180 grain 30 cal with less recoil.
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Addicted brings up an interesting point for discussion.
Berger VLD's rely heavily on the rate of twist in the barrel I think, and their bullet that shines regarding the super high BC is their 7mm bullet. How does their .30 cal bullets stack up#1, #2 are they a good hunting bullet or are they a good target bullet?--I think on deer it doesn't matter much but when you get up into the elk/moose/bear sized animals anyway, and #3 what's your rate of twist in the barrel and how much will that matter? I'm not a long range guy so I don't know the answers here, just raising some possible points for talk.
the Berger VLD is not a strong bullet, and they even claim to make it explode on purpose. But the reason it shines down range is because it is very accurate and has a great BC which helps keep it accurate, fast, and energized long range. It puts proof to the thought that 95% of killing an animal is putting the bullet in the right place.
between 7mm bullets and .338 bullets covering the weights and BC's that they do there is almost no need for 30 cal bullets.
a 7mm 140 boat tail has a BC of .485 which is nearly the .507 of the 180 grain 30 cal with less recoil.
so it would take a very heavy 30cal bullet to get the BC of a middleweight bullet in 7mm. Lets say the 180grn7mm vld with .659 BC. it would take a 208grn A-max to get up to .64 bc.
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At some point you run into a performance issue ( mostly from a hunting stand point ) with the heavier , higher BC......at that point, trajectory suffers and may well off set the original intent of the caliber to be a COMBINATION of both somewhat fast and somewhat accurate. You can look at any specific caliber and see on its charts that the faster, lower BC bullets look better as far as BDC, but the actual performance accuracy wise of the longer, heavier higher BC bullets take over at longer ranges. SO...its more about personal use of a specific gun and caliber.....And even then, you have to have a gun capable of 1000 yard accuracy, and the proven caliber to go with it....then comes the glass. :twocents:
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Addicted brings up an interesting point for discussion.
Berger VLD's rely heavily on the rate of twist in the barrel I think, and their bullet that shines regarding the super high BC is their 7mm bullet. How does their .30 cal bullets stack up#1, #2 are they a good hunting bullet or are they a good target bullet?--I think on deer it doesn't matter much but when you get up into the elk/moose/bear sized animals anyway, and #3 what's your rate of twist in the barrel and how much will that matter? I'm not a long range guy so I don't know the answers here, just raising some possible points for talk.
the Berger VLD is not a strong bullet, and they even claim to make it explode on purpose. But the reason it shines down range is because it is very accurate and has a great BC which helps keep it accurate, fast, and energized long range. It puts proof to the thought that 95% of killing an animal is putting the bullet in the right place.
between 7mm bullets and .338 bullets covering the weights and BC's that they do there is almost no need for 30 cal bullets.
a 7mm 140 boat tail has a BC of .485 which is nearly the .507 of the 180 grain 30 cal with less recoil.
so it would take a very heavy 30cal bullet to get the BC of a middleweight bullet in 7mm. Lets say the 180grn7mm vld with .659 BC. it would take a 208grn A-max to get up to .64 bc.
A 180 7mm is far from a middleweight. most guns wont stabilize one. It takes a custom to even chamber one efficiently.
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Addicted brings up an interesting point for discussion.
Berger VLD's rely heavily on the rate of twist in the barrel I think, and their bullet that shines regarding the super high BC is their 7mm bullet. How does their .30 cal bullets stack up#1, #2 are they a good hunting bullet or are they a good target bullet?--I think on deer it doesn't matter much but when you get up into the elk/moose/bear sized animals anyway, and #3 what's your rate of twist in the barrel and how much will that matter? I'm not a long range guy so I don't know the answers here, just raising some possible points for talk.
the Berger VLD is not a strong bullet, and they even claim to make it explode on purpose. But the reason it shines down range is because it is very accurate and has a great BC which helps keep it accurate, fast, and energized long range. It puts proof to the thought that 95% of killing an animal is putting the bullet in the right place.
between 7mm bullets and .338 bullets covering the weights and BC's that they do there is almost no need for 30 cal bullets.
a 7mm 140 boat tail has a BC of .485 which is nearly the .507 of the 180 grain 30 cal with less recoil.
so it would take a very heavy 30cal bullet to get the BC of a middleweight bullet in 7mm. Lets say the 180grn7mm vld with .659 BC. it would take a 208grn A-max to get up to .64 bc.
A 180 7mm is far from a middleweight. most guns wont stabilize one. It takes a custom to even chamber one efficiently.
middle weight as far as popular bullets in general, .243-.338
My new 7mm has a 1:8.7 twist btw :IBCOOL:
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It won't likely shoot worth a hoot. Have you ever seen a 180 7mm? They will be seated super deep in order to fit in your mag. You could throat the rifle and do some custom work to get them to feed....$$
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The most common variables in bullet selection are accuracy, terminal performance, ballistic efficiency, cost, and availability.
In considering which bullet to choose, it’s important to decide what’s most important to the game you are hunting. For example, with elk I would rate terminal performance first, accuracy second, and ballistics third. For antelope, I would rate accuracy first and ballistics second, and probably not care at all about the rest. Killing an antelope is easy if you can hit it. For varmints I would rate accuracy first, ballistics second, and maybe cost as a third. I’d never consider cost a very important factor for big game.
Accuracy comes out near the top for everything I hunt. Finding a bullet/load that your gun likes can be challenging. You cannot rely on the experience of others. You must ask your gun what it likes, and obey.
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It won't likely shoot worth a hoot. Have you ever seen a 180 7mm? They will be seated super deep in order to fit in your mag. You could throat the rifle and do some custom work to get them to feed....$$
my action is made to take magnum cartridges so IF i wanted to look into it, I think i could make it work without too much seating depth. I'm thinking my needs will have me peter out in the 160's.
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What you need is a bullet that will hold together at high impact velocities if you are going to be shooting game at the close ranges.......and will still perform fine at longer ranges of 300 - 500. You will want to have either solid copper or bonded bullets. So, you're going to want to look at ammo loaded with the Nosler Accubond (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/697964/federal-premium-vital-shok-ammunition-300-winchester-magnum-180-grain-nosler-accubond-box-of-20), Hornady Interbond (http://www.hornady.com/store/300-Win-Mag-180-GR-InterBond-Superformance/), Nosler E-Tip, Barnes TTSX (http://www.cheaperthandirtretailstore.net/30312127-1.html), or Hornady GMX (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/729659/hornady-superformance-ammunition-300-winchester-magnum-165-grain-gilding-metal-expanding-boat-tail-box-of-20). (Probably 180 gr in the lead bullets and 168 gr in the copper). Try a box of each and see which ones shoot best out of your rifle. :twocents:
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I'd probbily pick the 168 barnes in fedral premium if I was shooting factory loads , if I where working up a hand load i might go with a 190 accubond , from what i've heard they group a lil better than the 180's due to the length of the projectile .