Post by: Alchase on June 22, 2012, 01:28:40 PM
The more I though about how much money that would have cost if I had gone to a shop to fix :dunno:
I use to do almost all the repairs on my vehicles but as I got older and a little more irratated laying down on cold ground in the middle of winter to change out a tranny/clutch etc..., paying someong else to get busted knuckles nad dirtied up sounds a lot better, lol. Allot of these check engine issues are way to easy to fix to have someon charge you a couple hundred in diagnostic and replacement.
So I decided to post up the Dodge codes that I have on my Iphone, The may be a more comprehensive list available from someone who works for Dodge/Chrysler (hint Hint Jackalope, lol) hopefully this will help some to fix the easier problems without getting raped by a shop.
It might be cool to list Ford ,Chevy, and the rest if you have them as well?
Dodge Code Description
P1192
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit Low
P1193
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit High
P1195
1/1 O2 Sensor<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/ (http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/)" \l " Slow During Catalyst Monitor
P1196
2/1 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor
P1197
1/2 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor
P1198
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too High
P1199
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too Low
P1281
Engine Is Cold Too Long
P1282
Fuel<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Pump Relay Control Circuit
P1283
Idle Select Signal Invalid
P1284
Fuel Injection Pump Battery Voltage Out Of Range
P1285
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Always On
P1286
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Supply Voltage Too High
P1287
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low
P1288
Intake Manifold Short Runner Solenoid Circuit
P1289
Manifold Tune Valve Solenoid Circuit
P1290
CNG Fuel Pressure Too High
P1291
No Temp Rise Seen From Fuel Heaters
P1292
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High
P1293
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low
P1294
Target Idle Not Reached
P1295
No 5 Volts To TP Sensor
P1296
No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor
P1297
No Change in MAP From Start To Run
P1298
Lean Operation At wide Open Throttle
P1299
Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated)
P1388
Auto<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Shutdown (ASD) Relay Control Circuit
P1389
No Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Output Voltage At PCM
P1390
Timing Belt Skipped One Tooth or More
P1391
Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP
P1398
Mis-Fire Adapter Numerator at Limit
P1399
Wait To Start Lamp Circuit
P1403
No 5 Volts To EGR Sensor
P1475
Aux. 5 Volt Output Too High
P1476
Too Little Secondary Air
P1477
Too Much Secondary Air
P1478
Battery Temp Sensor Volts Out of Limit
P1479
Transmission Fan Relay Circuit
P1480
PCV Solenoid Valve
P1482
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted Low
P1483
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted High
P1484
Catalytic Converter Overheat Detected
P1485
Air Injection Solenoid Circuit
P1486
Evap Leak Monitor Pinched Hose
P1487
Hi Speed Rad Fan CTRL Relay Circuit
P1488
Auxiliary 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low
P1489
High Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit
P1490
Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit
P1491
Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit
25 amp fuse (closest to engine and closest to radiator, white fuse)
P1492
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too High
P1493
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too Low
P1494
Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault
P1495
Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit
P1496
5 Volt Supply Output Too Low
P1498
High speed Rad Fan Ground CTRL Rly Circuit
P1594
Charging System Voltage Too High
P1595
Speed Control Solenoid Circuits
P1596
Speed Control Switch Always High
P1597
Speed Control Switch Always Low
P1598
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too High
P1599
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low
P1602
PCM Not Programmed
P1680
Clutch Released Switch Circuit
P1681
No I/P Cluster CCD/J1850 Messages Received
P1682
Charging System Voltage Too Low
P1683
Speed Control Power<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Relay Or Speed Control 12 Volt Driver Circuit
P1684
Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts
P1685
Skim Invalid Key
P1686
No SKIM Bus Message Received
P1687
No Cluster Bus Message
P1688
Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure
P1689
No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module
P1690
Fuel injection pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor
P1691
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Calibration Failure
P1693
DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM
P1694
No CCD Messages Received From ECM
P1695
No CCD/J185O Message From BCM
P1696
PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied
P1697
PCM Failure SRI Mile Not Stored
P1698
No CCD Messages Received From PCM
P1719
Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit
P1740
TCC Or OD Solenoid Performance
P1756
Governor Pressure Not Equal To Target At 1520 PSI
P1757
Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI
P1762
Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage
P1763
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High
P1764
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low
P1765
Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit
P1899
Park/Neutral Position Switch Stuck In Park or In Gear
Hope this helps
Post by: huntnphool on June 22, 2012, 01:36:25 PM
I try to do as much work on my cars as I can but for me it's more because I enjoy it as a hobby, although I certainly do understand avoiding the costs involved with the dealerships, some cars can get very expensive in short order. :yike:
Post by: netcoyote on June 22, 2012, 02:49:08 PM
Quote
I use to do almost all the repairs on my vehicles but as I got older and a little more irratated laying down on cold ground in the middle of winter to change out a tranny/clutch etc..., paying someong else to get busted knuckles nad dirtied up sounds a lot better, lol.
Wow! Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
There was a period of time when I was really busy working and just did not have time to mess with car repairs, I decided to turn the work over to shops. Tried a lot of em, some worked and some didn't. Over all, I figured I spent as much time arguing over sloppy work, re-doing a botched repair myself or just got tired of farmed-out work not lasting, that it was just more time efficient to continue to do most of the work myself. Really big and messy work on my trucks, I still have shops do, but there are very few that I trust.
First thing I do when I get a new rig is buy a "factory" service manual (not the cheap Hayes type) for the year, make and model of vehicle. They are pricey but I figure I have saved thousands of dollars over the years. Manual sources for used vehicles can be harder to find but they are out there. Factory manuals vary in quality but they are much more complete than the Hayes-type manuals and include all the trouble codes and have direct links to specific repairs to address the trouble codes. If you do your own work, they are essential.
BTW, I have two Dodge Rams now, the factory manual for the 1998 rig is three volumes thick. :yike:
Post by: jackelope on June 22, 2012, 08:15:31 PM
Those are OBDII fault codes. They're the same for everything since 1996. Not specific to Dodge or Chevy or Ford or Toyota or whatever. Same language since the change was made from OBDI to OBDII.
The trouble people get into and they call us or shotgun and start throwing parts is when you get one of the codes you listed like...
P1283
Idle Select Signal Invalid
OR
P1296
No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor
What do you do to fix that?
Google is a great tool, and so are a lot of the web forums. The internet itself is a great tool for this kind of stuff.
The truth is that probably 95 of the customer pay work we get is from A-people who don't have the time to do this stuff themselves or their time is worth too much to them to spend it working on cars or B-they don't know which end of the screwdriver is up. The rest of it is from people who either had another shop try and fix something and they couldn't figure it out or from people who decided to quit throwing parts at stuff and cut their losses. The part that bugs me the most is when a shop takes a customer's car in, charges them $100-200 to diagnose their car and they can't figure it out and tell the people that they need to take it to the dealer. They still get charged the money but they got absolutely nothing for it. It would take more than both of my and both of your hands for me to count the number of times I have seen this happen. Thats the chitty part to this.
I'm happy to help whenever I can. I am not a tech and I have a little more than -zero- technical knowledge. I just know what we see a lot of and when it fits I am willing to use the tools I have at my disposal to help.
And believe me...I have a running list of folks on these forums who have chit talked the dealership service departments. Those people won't get free help from me on here ever.
:chuckle:
Post by: Alchase on June 25, 2012, 08:34:13 AM
At best I figure these codes give us a place to start looking, but in some cases they give the outcome but not necessarily the cause.
Post by: Alchase on June 25, 2012, 08:35:48 AM
Post by: et1702 on June 25, 2012, 08:49:24 AM
I'm happy to help whenever I can. I am not a tech and I have a little more than -zero- technical knowledge. I just know what we see a lot of and when it fits I am willing to use the tools I have at my disposal to help.
And believe me...I have a running list of folks on these forums who have chit talked the dealership service departments. Those people won't get free help from me on here ever.
:chuckle:
I can't say enough good things about Jackelope. Get your truck scheduled w/him at Kirkland Dodge. Worth every penny!
ET
Post by: Buckmark on June 25, 2012, 09:21:06 AM
It is unfortunate that people think shops are here to "rape" them, or that OBDII code reading and repair is really simple, some can be very basic and some can be frustrating.
OBDII systems help you by giving an area/function to start your diagnositcs, but not specifically what is broken/failed..
Good repair facilites (not your bottom feeder shops) are here really to help you, fix vehicles, make an honest living and have happy customers, we are not out to screw anyone...
Alchase i have to say i doubt the fuse replacment is the end of your repair, i bet the fan motor is failing hence the reason for the fuse failure, i may be wrong but its just a hunch.
Check this out:
NUMBER: 08-002-03
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: January 31, 2003
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-015-02, DATED SEPTEMBER 2, 2002, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES.
ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**. THIS REVISES A TYPOGRAPHICAL ERROR IN THE TIME ALLOWANCE SECTION.
SUBJECT:
Condenser Fan Inoperative Due To Open Fuse
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a new condenser fan, shroud and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
MODELS:
2002 DR (Ram Truck)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The condenser fan fuse (# 39) in the power distribution center may open leaving the condenser fan inoperative. This may be caused by a condenser fan with excessive current draw or by water collecting in a trough in the fan shroud and freezing in cold weather, which can prevent the fan from turning. This may illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL).
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle exhibits the condition, perform the Repair Procedure.
Post by: shoot-em-dead on June 25, 2012, 09:40:34 AM
It is the ones like Jack said that charge for something they didn't do that gets me angry. I bought my truck in February so I never checked to see if the ac worked. But summer it hot and I brought it to a dealership and they charged 600. It blew cold for a month :bash:. Then they wanted to charge the full amount again to fix it again. :bash: That dealership went out of business about a year after they worked on my truck. I brought the truck to another place and they found that the ac pump itself was leaking and never charged me a dime. The price to fix it is just more than I am willing to spend on myself. I have now had the truck for 5 years and have to add refrigerant when I want it cold- most of the time I just sweat it out.
Post by: Alchase on June 27, 2012, 12:31:34 PM
I agree with jackelope's statement.
It is unfortunate that people think shops are here to "rape" them, or that OBDII code reading and repair is really simple, some can be very basic and some can be frustrating.
OBDII systems help you by giving an area/function to start your diagnositcs, but not specifically what is broken/failed..
Good repair facilites (not your bottom feeder shops) are here really to help you, fix vehicles, make an honest living and have happy customers, we are not out to screw anyone...
Alchase i have to say i doubt the fuse replacment is the end of your repair, i bet the fan motor is failing hence the reason for the fuse failure, i may be wrong but its just a hunch.
Check this out:
NUMBER: 08-002-03
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: January 31, 2003
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-015-02, DATED SEPTEMBER 2, 2002, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES.
ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**. THIS REVISES A TYPOGRAPHICAL ERROR IN THE TIME ALLOWANCE SECTION.
SUBJECT:
Condenser Fan Inoperative Due To Open Fuse
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a new condenser fan, shroud and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
MODELS:
2002 DR (Ram Truck)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The condenser fan fuse (# 39) in the power distribution center may open leaving the condenser fan inoperative. This may be caused by a condenser fan with excessive current draw or by water collecting in a trough in the fan shroud and freezing in cold weather, which can prevent the fan from turning. This may illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL).
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle exhibits the condition, perform the Repair Procedure.
You may be right!
I was looking back through my maintenance receipts. Apparently I had the same problem back in 2004 and eventually had to replace the fan motor. It might have been done under service bulletin, can't tell by my old receipts.
Kinda falls into fixing the problem but not the cause, lol
Thanks for the headsup