Hunting Washington Forum

Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: rbros on August 22, 2016, 05:30:49 PM

Title: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 22, 2016, 05:30:49 PM
This is for questions regarding shooting, reloading, build advice, etc.........no ethics discussions please
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jackelope on August 22, 2016, 05:33:22 PM
I'd like to know if you guys do any work on existing rifles. I.E. I have a Remington 700 Long Range and I think it shoots pretty good but I know it could be better. I had it shooting in the .8" range with factory HSM ammo and I'd like to know if there's anything you'd recommend doing to it to tighten those groups up and do you do stuff like that one someone else's rifle. Working up a load it shoots well is definitely in the plan, but what about things like bedding, trigger work, etc or do you only build rifles from the ground up? I'd also be interested in fluting the barrel and bolt just for that cool look. Curious to know your thoughts on that.

Thanks. This should be a good thread to follow.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Karl Blanchard on August 22, 2016, 05:35:27 PM
Cool idea!  Dont really have any questions at the moment but always thirsty for knowledge feom guys like you.  Tagging along :hello:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 22, 2016, 06:08:26 PM
I'd like to know if you guys do any work on existing rifles. I.E. I have a Remington 700 Long Range and I think it shoots pretty good but I know it could be better. I had it shooting in the .8" range with factory HSM ammo and I'd like to know if there's anything you'd recommend doing to it to tighten those groups up and do you do stuff like that one someone else's rifle. Working up a load it shoots well is definitely in the plan, but what about things like bedding, trigger work, etc or do you only build rifles from the ground up? I'd also be interested in fluting the barrel and bolt just for that cool look. Curious to know your thoughts on that.

Thanks. This should be a good thread to follow.

From what I have seen on the Rem 700 LR Rifles, the following typically adds some improvement:
Skim Bed action and lug
Jewell Trigger
Brake and re-crown
Saddle cheekpiece

This is all stuff we can do.  I don't do any "accurizing" as some call it where they lap lugs, claim to true up the action and spin your barrel back on.  If your going to true the action, put a new barrel on it and really get the performance.


I wouldn't flute the barrel, a guy really wants to leave that up to the barrel manufacturers.  To big of a risk to have it go wrong.  Fluting the bolt is a pretty common thing however.  Its more cosmetic on Remingtons, but will reduce a little bit of weight.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: huntandjeep on August 22, 2016, 06:56:29 PM
How long does it take to build a rifle ? Always wondered about the test targets builders show ?When you show test targets are those factory ammo or reloads , if reloads do all your rifles like the same recipe or do you work up a load for each individual rifle ?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Bushcraft on August 22, 2016, 06:58:08 PM
Great idea for a thread!

Where is the best/correct place to measure sight height (center bore to center scope) when using a base with 20 MOA built into the base? And, how much does it really matter?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 05:23:16 AM
How long does it take to build a rifle ? Always wondered about the test targets builders show ?When you show test targets are those factory ammo or reloads , if reloads do all your rifles like the same recipe or do you work up a load for each individual rifle ?

With the machining, stock fitting, bedding, coating, etc....there is usually about approx. 12-14hr per rifle.

Most of my test targets are with handloads, but some I use factory ammo with as well.  A lot of the 6.5 Creedmoors, 260's, 280AI's, and 338 Lapua's, I will use factory ammo with.

Now, here is the part that bugs me about other builders.  That charge they bill for "load development"....its a complete BS deal.  Just a way to get a little extra money for actually shooting the rifle.  The load recipe never changes from rifle to rifle.  In the last 10yrs the only thing that has changed is that I had to back down my charge weight on my 7 Mag load since Retumbo became a little faster burn rate in the last couple years.  Other than that, every rifle that I build runs the same loads and they are very well proven for accuracy.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 05:30:30 AM
Great idea for a thread!

Where is the best/correct place to measure sight height (center bore to center scope) when using a base with 20 MOA built into the base? And, how much does it really matter?

Here is an easy way to do it.  Lets use the following scenario:

You barrel shank is 1.25" diameter, so half that is: .625"
Your scope is a 30mm tube or 1.181", so half that is: .5905"
The distance from the top of your barrel at the recoil lug area to the bottom of the 30mm tube section is: .729"

Add those all together and you come up with 1.9445", round that to 1.95" and put that into you ballistic app.  A slight difference in height won't make that much difference, but if you leave it at the default number of 1.5" of most apps, you would be a bit off at distance using this example.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jasnt on August 23, 2016, 05:50:10 AM
Tagging
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jkthomps on August 23, 2016, 12:11:50 PM
tagging in. I have a Rem 700 LR 300rum that may need your love.  :chuckle: :tup:

Why do you recommend a jewel triggers over timney triggers on the Rem 700s? 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 01:06:48 PM
tagging in. I have a Rem 700 LR 300rum that may need your love.  :chuckle: :tup:

Why do you recommend a jewel triggers over timney triggers on the Rem 700s?

Overall they are a better trigger as long as they are adjusted correctly.  A Jewell will always feels crisper than a Timney no matter what the weight of pull is.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Gringo31 on August 23, 2016, 01:12:00 PM
 :tup:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: 2MANY on August 23, 2016, 01:22:44 PM
I have a question for Travis.

Why the hell doesn't everyone just bite the bullet and buy a new RBros rifle????

JUST DO IT!!
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Bob33 on August 23, 2016, 01:48:26 PM
How light could you make a rifle for big game that would meet your accuracy expectations?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on August 23, 2016, 01:55:08 PM
How light could you make a rifle for big game that would meet your accuracy expectations?

Our long action Lightweight Hunters are 6.75# without glass or bipod. 
http://rbrosrifles.com/rifle-packages/lw-hunter/ (http://rbrosrifles.com/rifle-packages/lw-hunter/)
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Bob33 on August 23, 2016, 01:56:58 PM
Thanks!
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Branden on August 23, 2016, 02:49:23 PM
What do you think of Trigger Tech riggers?

Regards, Branden
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Bushcraft on August 23, 2016, 03:09:21 PM
Great idea for a thread!

Where is the best/correct place to measure sight height (center bore to center scope) when using a base with 20 MOA built into the base? And, how much does it really matter?

Here is an easy way to do it.  Lets use the following scenario:

You barrel shank is 1.25" diameter, so half that is: .625"
Your scope is a 30mm tube or 1.181", so half that is: .5905"
The distance from the top of your barrel at the recoil lug area to the bottom of the 30mm tube section is: .729"

Add those all together and you come up with 1.9445", round that to 1.95" and put that into you ballistic app.  A slight difference in height won't make that much difference, but if you leave it at the default number of 1.5" of most apps, you would be a bit off at distance using this example.

Hmmm...the how-to wasn't the question.  Got that.

How much, if any difference does it make when/where measuring the sight height when using a 20 or 40 MOA base?  For the sake of taking it to the extreme to see if there is a gnat's ass worth of difference, for example let's use a 200 MOA base and a long NF 5-25 NF-type scope.  Is the correct place to measure at the eyepiece, turrets that house the reticle or the objective.  Each will represent a significantly different measurement.  So, where is the best place to measure and what, if any, real world difference does it make?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 03:23:23 PM
Midlength of the scope would give you an average.  On a long action 30 MOA rail your talking about .042" of slope roughly in the length of the rail.  Using the mid point of the scope would get you and average, but like I said, its not a huge bearing on impact whether you measure at the lug area or the eyepiece. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Bushcraft on August 23, 2016, 03:27:40 PM
Thank you.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Jolten on August 23, 2016, 03:41:15 PM
Reloading .308 using BLC2 powder, BR2 primers. 165gr HPBT Sierra GameKings loaded at 2.626COAL.

Powder weights from 40.5gr to 43.5. First 2 shots would touch. 3rd shot varied between 1/4 to 1inch apart from the first 2. And never straying in the same direction.

For example 40.5 gr first 2 shots would touch. 3rd would hit upper right 1/2 inch away from the first 2.

With 43.5 first 2 would touch. 3rd was 3/4 in lower left.

Any ideas on what would cause this? There was about a 3-4 min break between shots with 10min between groups. Using a Savage 10t with a 1-10 twist.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Angry Perch on August 23, 2016, 04:23:03 PM
Midlength of the scope would give you an average.  On a long action 30 MOA rail your talking about .042" of slope roughly in the length of the rail.  Using the mid point of the scope would get you and average, but like I said, its not a huge bearing on impact whether you measure at the lug area or the eyepiece.

I think I can safely say that I know less about long range shooting than anyone. I'm a sight it in a couple inches high at 100, and don't shoot past 20 kind of guy. But I've always wondered what a "20 MOA rail" or "40 MOA rail" was. Is it actually slanted towards the muzzle so you have some built in elevation?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 04:29:28 PM
Reloading .308 using BLC2 powder, BR2 primers. 165gr HPBT Sierra GameKings loaded at 2.626COAL.

Powder weights from 40.5gr to 43.5. First 2 shots would touch. 3rd shot varied between 1/4 to 1inch apart from the first 2. And never straying in the same direction.

For example 40.5 gr first 2 shots would touch. 3rd would hit upper right 1/2 inch away from the first 2.

With 43.5 first 2 would touch. 3rd was 3/4 in lower left.

Any ideas on what would cause this? There was about a 3-4 min break between shots with 10min between groups. Using a Savage 10t with a 1-10 twist.

It could be a matter of cheekweld.  You may be able to be consistent for a couple shots then you position changes.  You might try shooting 3 shots in a row and not pick your head up of the rifle while working the bolt.  Try to find a reference point on your face where it touches the stock and keep that position the same.  Identical concept to an anchor point in archery.

I am leaning towards form since you are always getting two shots to touch and there is no consistency where the 3rd is going. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 23, 2016, 04:33:53 PM
Midlength of the scope would give you an average.  On a long action 30 MOA rail your talking about .042" of slope roughly in the length of the rail.  Using the mid point of the scope would get you and average, but like I said, its not a huge bearing on impact whether you measure at the lug area or the eyepiece.

I think I can safely say that I know less about long range shooting than anyone. I'm a sight it in a couple inches high at 100, and don't shoot past 20 kind of guy. But I've always wondered what a "20 MOA rail" or "40 MOA rail" was. Is it actually slanted towards the muzzle so you have some built in elevation?

A 20-40 MOA rail is actually taller in the rear and slopes down towards the muzzle.  This allows your scope to have more upward travel in simple terms.  Lets say your scope has 100 MOA of travel.  With the cross hairs centered you may be 50 minutes of elevation travel left.  By installing it on a 20MOA rail, you would now have 70 MOA of elevation travel available in the scope now.  Hopefully that makes sense how I worded it.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: brew on August 23, 2016, 04:54:25 PM
really cool thread...good reading--thanks for the info
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Jolten on August 23, 2016, 05:34:50 PM
Reloading .308 using BLC2 powder, BR2 primers. 165gr HPBT Sierra GameKings loaded at 2.626COAL.

Powder weights from 40.5gr to 43.5. First 2 shots would touch. 3rd shot varied between 1/4 to 1inch apart from the first 2. And never straying in the same direction.

For example 40.5 gr first 2 shots would touch. 3rd would hit upper right 1/2 inch away from the first 2.

With 43.5 first 2 would touch. 3rd was 3/4 in lower left.

Any ideas on what would cause this? There was about a 3-4 min break between shots with 10min between groups. Using a Savage 10t with a 1-10 twist.

It could be a matter of cheekweld.  You may be able to be consistent for a couple shots then you position changes.  You might try shooting 3 shots in a row and not pick your head up of the rifle while working the bolt.  Try to find a reference point on your face where it touches the stock and keep that position the same.  Identical concept to an anchor point in archery.

I am leaning towards form since you are always getting two shots to touch and there is no consistency where the 3rd is going.

Hmm.... I'll have to try that. If it was that simple I might kick my own butt for that.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: WoodlandShooter on August 25, 2016, 01:31:11 PM
building an AR10 (DPMS) looking for a 22" 7.3 or 7.5 twist barrel in 243. Want it to be relatively light, but also hold zero for strings up to 15 rounds per stage. Using a JP lightweight carrier, and a adjustable gas block.

what contour on the barrel, and will you build the barrel assembly?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 26, 2016, 10:04:06 AM
building an AR10 (DPMS) looking for a 22" 7.3 or 7.5 twist barrel in 243. Want it to be relatively light, but also hold zero for strings up to 15 rounds per stage. Using a JP lightweight carrier, and a adjustable gas block.

what contour on the barrel, and will you build the barrel assembly?

I think our buddy Glen Seekins is running his AR10 barrel at a .750-.800 at the muzzle in a 24" barrel.  I certainly wouldn't go any smaller than that.  Unfortunately, I don't do any AR10 barrels at this time.  I used to, but unless a guy had a premium upper, accuracy was hit or miss.  Had the most problems with DPMS uppers and their consistency.  Drop the same barrel into a premium billet upper and they shot lights out.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: andersonjk4 on August 26, 2016, 10:23:15 AM
Do you do any re-barreling of metric threaded actions... Weatherby, Howa, etc?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 26, 2016, 12:08:44 PM
Sorry, Remington's and customs only
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: gutsnthegrass on August 26, 2016, 12:44:57 PM
I have a Model 700 mountain rifle in .260.  I have been kicking the idea around about rebarreling it with a longer barrel with more twist .  I have also thought about turning it into a .260AI.  Do you think this would be worth it for accuracy.  The thin short barrel on the mountain rifle is fine, but I want to turn this into a shooter as I really like the .260 rem caliber.

Thanks for any info.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Taco280AI on August 26, 2016, 12:50:36 PM
How accurate is it now?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: gutsnthegrass on August 26, 2016, 02:34:55 PM
Eh, I can get 1" groups with my handloads.  I would like to customize it though.  I know this caliber can do better than 1".
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 26, 2016, 02:35:32 PM
I have a Model 700 mountain rifle in .260.  I have been kicking the idea around about rebarreling it with a longer barrel with more twist .  I have also thought about turning it into a .260AI.  Do you think this would be worth it for accuracy.  The thin short barrel on the mountain rifle is fine, but I want to turn this into a shooter as I really like the .260 rem caliber.

Thanks for any info.

A long thin barrel usually isn't the best for accuracy.  A guy could run a 24" #3 and still get great accuracy with either a 260 or 260AI.  The LW Hunters in my version of the 260AI run a contour similar to a #4 and are still sub .25 moa rifles.  Rumor has it one of my buddies shot a 1.54" 3 shot group at 1k with his.  Not bad for a lightweight rig.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: gutsnthegrass on August 26, 2016, 02:39:48 PM
Yes, I would get rid of the stock as well so I could run a heavier contour barrel. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: gutsnthegrass on August 26, 2016, 02:41:34 PM
What is your opinion on the leaving it a .260 or changing it .260AI?  Is there much advantage?  Or is it a waste of time and money? 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 26, 2016, 04:07:19 PM
My AI version will run close to 3100 in a 26" barrel with 140's.  It can be pushed harder, but this is a nice mild load and super accurate.  The 260 will run 2950-2975 with a 140 using todays powders.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: coop2424 on August 26, 2016, 06:00:38 PM
What kind of barrel life can you expect out of a .260AI? Pushing it mid to high range in speed?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Mxracer532 on August 26, 2016, 08:11:42 PM
What is your go to 7mm Rem mag load?
I have 1st gen Sendero I had loaded up 168gn Berger VLDs Win Std primer 72gn of Retumbo and got it to shoot about .76 or so. I then sent it to Straight Shooters Supply in Oregon and had them Bed the action and install a Muscle Brake and recrown and tune the trigger to a crisp 2lbs. Got the rifle back and the same load I barely got it to shoot a 1.2 or so group. What gives???
I loaded some ELD-X's today some with retumbo and some with H1000 and Started at touching the lands and backed off ten thousandths from 3450 COL (just kissing the lands) to 3420 COL. With that said what is your method for seating depths on ELD-X bullets?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 27, 2016, 10:53:37 AM
What kind of barrel life can you expect out of a .260AI? Pushing it mid to high range in speed?

Since we are using slower powders it should bea little longer than the normal 2500 rd 260 barrel life. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 27, 2016, 10:58:36 AM
What is your go to 7mm Rem mag load?
I have 1st gen Sendero I had loaded up 168gn Berger VLDs Win Std primer 72gn of Retumbo and got it to shoot about .76 or so. I then sent it to Straight Shooters Supply in Oregon and had them Bed the action and install a Muscle Brake and recrown and tune the trigger to a crisp 2lbs. Got the rifle back and the same load I barely got it to shoot a 1.2 or so group. What gives???
I loaded some ELD-X's today some with retumbo and some with H1000 and Started at touching the lands and backed off ten thousandths from 3450 COL (just kissing the lands) to 3420 COL. With that said what is your method for seating depths on ELD-X bullets?

My go to load wouldn't do you much good. My 7rm chamber is a lot different that a factory rifle or other customs.  Using my data would not be safe and lock up the bolt on a factory rifle.  You are right there with your info on a factory load. I would try a mag primer though.  Sometimes when shops install brakes it can change accuracy.  This is typically due to the brake not being aligned or they went to fast during the machining process and opened up the bore at the muzzle.  Both are detrimental to accuracy.  Most all of the eld-x bullets will shoot in the .010-.020 of the lands range
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: b23 on August 27, 2016, 12:26:06 PM
Travis, could you give a bit more information as to what is all different with your 7Rem mag. compared to SAAMI 7Rem Mag.

I'm assuming you must be improving the case but are you only changing shoulder angle or are you pushing the shoulder forward as well?  What is the overall H20 case capacity?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 27, 2016, 04:11:01 PM
Travis, could you give a bit more information as to what is all different with your 7Rem mag. compared to SAAMI 7Rem Mag.

I'm assuming you must be improving the case but are you only changing shoulder angle or are you pushing the shoulder forward as well?  What is the overall H20 case capacity?

It's the throat design on the 7rm that's different.  The body dimensions are changed slightly to give better case life as well.  I do have an improved one as well that I have been running for a few years
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jasnt on August 27, 2016, 04:28:29 PM
I'd like to hear what kind of speed your getting out of the 7 rogue and a 180.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 27, 2016, 04:42:00 PM
The 7 rogue will 3150 pretty easily.  My improved 7rm design does the same thing as well.  Both will get up to 3200 in a max charge with 27" barrels
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jasnt on August 27, 2016, 06:51:20 PM
That's pretty impressive. That's deff on my wish list
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Mxracer532 on August 28, 2016, 07:39:16 AM
What is your go to 7mm Rem mag load?
I have 1st gen Sendero I had loaded up 168gn Berger VLDs Win Std primer 72gn of Retumbo and got it to shoot about .76 or so. I then sent it to Straight Shooters Supply in Oregon and had them Bed the action and install a Muscle Brake and recrown and tune the trigger to a crisp 2lbs. Got the rifle back and the same load I barely got it to shoot a 1.2 or so group. What gives???
I loaded some ELD-X's today some with retumbo and some with H1000 and Started at touching the lands and backed off ten thousandths from 3450 COL (just kissing the lands) to 3420 COL. With that said what is your method for seating depths on ELD-X bullets?

My go to load wouldn't do you much good. My 7rm chamber is a lot different that a factory rifle or other customs.  Using my data would not be safe and lock up the bolt on a factory rifle.  You are right there with your info on a factory load. I would try a mag primer though.  Sometimes when shops install brakes it can change accuracy.  This is typically due to the brake not being aligned or they went to fast during the machining process and opened up the bore at the muzzle.  Both are detrimental to accuracy.  Most all of the eld-x bullets will shoot in the .010-.020 of the lands range

I have shot both mag primers and STD and the STD primers in every load I tried shot better then mags.
I realize your load would be way different. Still curious what powder/primers work best for you.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 28, 2016, 09:56:04 AM
I use retumbo and 215m primers in all my 7 mag stuff. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: andersonjk4 on August 29, 2016, 08:10:31 AM
I use retumbo and 215m primers in all my 7 mag stuff.

Curious what powder/primer combo you run in your .300 Win Mags?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 29, 2016, 09:17:04 AM
H1000 and 215m or cci250 primers
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: andersonjk4 on August 29, 2016, 10:20:52 AM
H1000 and 215m or cci250 primers

Good to know.  Thanks.

What bullets are you using?  Weight? 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 29, 2016, 12:32:40 PM
210 Berger hunting vld usually
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: coop2424 on August 29, 2016, 03:01:25 PM
Ok so 260 ai are you building them on short action or long action?  Seems that if you want to run the larger bullets then the longer action may be the route to take so you are able to extend them out or use a wyatt's mag?   Thanks for your answers to all the questions on here!!
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 29, 2016, 04:37:12 PM
Ok so 260 ai are you building them on short action or long action?  Seems that if you want to run the larger bullets then the longer action may be the route to take so you are able to extend them out or use a wyatt's mag?   Thanks for your answers to all the questions on here!!

The 260AI's are on short actions with Wyatt's mag boxes. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: hogslayer on August 29, 2016, 06:07:42 PM
Have you done any load development with the 28 nosler? 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on August 30, 2016, 06:03:46 AM
Have you done any load development with the 28 nosler?

A little.  Enough to know that the 195's are way more finicky to get to shoot then the 180's.  Its already a finicky cartridge, but the 195's make it even more so.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: hogslayer on August 30, 2016, 04:37:33 PM
What's your process for cleaning a rifle, and how often do you clean it?  I have heard lots of mixed opinions.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on August 31, 2016, 01:51:38 PM
What's your process for cleaning a rifle, and how often do you clean it?  I have heard lots of mixed opinions.

Depends on the cartridge, but generally 300-500 rounds seems to be a good number for our competition guns to keep carbon buildup in the throat to a minimum.  Run a few wet patches of Butch's through it on a brass jag, then scrub with another couple wet patches on a jag, then dry patch it out.  Copper fouling is pretty much non-existent with our barrels after initial break-in so the Butch's clears out whatever is in there.  Make sure you use a good cleaning rod (we use Dewey), and a good bore guide like the ones from Mike Lucas.  Cleaning isn't rocket science, and is definitely one of those things you can overdo.  I've purposely not cleaned my 338 Edge for 500+ rounds and it showed no signs of being affected so I don't worry too much about that one anymore unless it get really wet or dirty while hunting.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: kbrowne14 on September 20, 2016, 11:16:22 PM
I will have a defiance Deviant Action that I will be turning into a 6.5 creed.  It will be in here in March.  I am wondering if you give me an estimated cost for the following work.

22 inch barrel- Medium or heavy palma contour
Muzzle brake
Jewell trigger
Cerakote job

It will probably go into a chassis of some type, but I'm not sure which one, maybe an orias chassis.

I would also like to know your average lead times for builds. 

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer our questions.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on September 21, 2016, 08:48:24 AM
PM Sent
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Badhabit on September 21, 2016, 09:12:08 AM
Great thread thanks for your input. I have a Weatherby 7mm 24" barrel. Years ago I handloaded about 10 boxes of ammo. 175 grn nosler partitions behind 80 grns of H870. Ammo is about 25 yrs old, still safe to shoot? Finally, about how many rounds can the barrel take before one can say it needs replacing? I probably shot around 200, I've killed my share of paper, lol.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on September 21, 2016, 01:12:38 PM
The ammo will still be OK to shoot, but may not shoot well.  Over time the case and the bullet start to stick together, this causes accuracy issues.  7 Mag barrels usually go around 1800-2000 rounds before needing replaced.  With only 200 rounds on it, you have ALOT of life left.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Badhabit on September 21, 2016, 01:38:12 PM
Thank you for your informative response!!! Sounds like my Weatherbeast will out last me for useful life.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: shootem on September 21, 2016, 01:42:05 PM
What bipod do you like?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Snakeriver on September 21, 2016, 04:13:50 PM
Do you manufacture your own barrels?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on September 21, 2016, 04:57:12 PM
What bipod do you like?

Harris HBRMS or Atlas PSR, both have their benefits.

Do you manufacture your own barrels?

Our barrel blanks are made for us by Broughton Rifle Barrels.  We do all the threading and chambering.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: 762Armo on September 21, 2016, 09:05:48 PM
I think it's time to put a brake on my 7mag. Was out at the range the other day signing in my 223, went to check the zero on the 7mag. Zero is still good, but my shoulder did not like the transition.
How busy are you guys at the shop?  Should the barrel be cut down to install a brake? Can you pm me a price for the job?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: actionshooter on February 06, 2017, 11:04:47 PM
Heard you guys had a new chassis, how about some info on that? :)
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: jasnt on February 07, 2017, 06:06:35 AM
Heard you guys had a new chassis, how about some info on that? :)
:yeah:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on February 07, 2017, 08:36:33 AM
New chassis build......you guys are hearing correct!  Our Competitor V2 now comes with a slightly different barrel profile and we've worked with MPA to fit their chassis to our Rogue action.  Along with that, we've been able to actually lower the price!  We're working on getting the website updated and will be adding more items to the store.  We've recently been added as a dealer for Armageddon Gear, and will be carrying several of their products including the Game Changer bag in our webstore.

Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: opdinkslayer on February 08, 2017, 06:24:06 AM
What does the MPA chassis weigh vs the manners stock on the competitor tactical?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on February 08, 2017, 10:11:08 AM
What does the MPA chassis weigh vs the manners stock on the competitor tactical?

The MPA adds about 3/4# over a T2a.  We've changed the barrel contour to improve the balance due to the weight difference so you really don't even notice any additional weight.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on February 09, 2017, 08:33:37 AM
Here is a quick picture of the V2 Comp Rifle.  Will have full details up on the website after the Western Hunting Expo next week.  Will also have the new Carbon Hunters up as well.

(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi104.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm175%2F7mmam%2FV2%2520Comp_zpslzie11eh.jpg&hash=7ea373f37e2ade3083c5f7b081149569)
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: kbrowne14 on February 28, 2017, 09:10:50 PM
I have a question about barrel contours.  I am going to do a 6.5 creedmoor, but I am a little unsure of what contour.  I have it narrowed down to either a heavy or medium Palma in 24".  I am leaning towards the medium contour as I want to use it for PRE style comps.  But what would the weight difference be between the 2 of both are 24" 6.5 CM?  And also what would the muzzle diameter be on both?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 04, 2017, 07:12:30 AM
Medium Palma contour is very close to a rem varmint.  They are .830" at 26".   A heavy Palma will be .930 at 26" and will be heavier.  Either will work, just depends on how heavy you want it to be.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: kbrowne14 on March 04, 2017, 08:57:59 AM
Any guess on the actual weight difference.  I'm trying to determine if having a stiffer barrel, will be worth the weight.  If it is only 1/4 lb, then to me, yes, but if it is 3/4 lb, no. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on March 06, 2017, 01:52:36 PM
Any guess on the actual weight difference.  I'm trying to determine if having a stiffer barrel, will be worth the weight.  If it is only 1/4 lb, then to me, yes, but if it is 3/4 lb, no.

Here's a pretty good calculator to play around with....
http://pac-nor.com/cgi-bin/bweight.cgi (http://pac-nor.com/cgi-bin/bweight.cgi)
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 07, 2017, 05:03:55 AM
A heavy Palma will be around 1lb more in weight.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Eric M on March 07, 2017, 05:43:53 AM
tag great thread not sure how I missed it
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: opdinkslayer on March 08, 2017, 06:21:47 AM
I got a buddy in the process of getting the loot in order to have you build him a rifle this year. We have had the conversation many times about which model/caliber many times and" I don't know" seems to be the answer we arrive at. If you were to build 1 do it all hunting rifle for all big game that you could backpack in the mtns or lay down and practice out to 1000 yds & beyond, what model/caliber would you build him? Thanks
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 08, 2017, 06:10:59 PM
The LW Hunters or the new carbon hunters are solid choices for a lighter packing style rifle.  Build one in 7 mag or 300wm and it will do anything most will want
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: opdinkslayer on March 08, 2017, 07:53:38 PM
Cool thanks for the response. Is there any advantages or disadvantages with the carbon barrels to consider?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: elkslayer069 on March 08, 2017, 09:12:55 PM
Travis I'm wanting to put a short section of rail on my rifle for bipod what are my options, it's for manners eh1 on my ultra mag you built
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 09, 2017, 04:41:35 AM
Cool thanks for the response. Is there any advantages or disadvantages with the carbon barrels to consider?

Probably the biggest advantage I see to them is being able to use a full size brake on the light rifles.  Makes them much more enjoyable to shoot.  Basically they weigh the same as a fluted #4, but will accept a suppressor and more effective brakes. The added cost can deter folks however.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 09, 2017, 04:42:49 AM
Travis I'm wanting to put a short section of rail on my rifle for bipod what are my options, it's for manners eh1 on my ultra mag you built

An atlas rail will bolt on. Take out the sling studs and the rail will attach there
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: b23 on March 09, 2017, 07:34:46 AM
Cool thanks for the response. Is there any advantages or disadvantages with the carbon barrels to consider?

Probably the biggest advantage I see to them is being able to use a full size brake on the light rifles.  Makes them much more enjoyable to shoot.  Basically they weigh the same as a fluted #4, but will accept a suppressor and more effective brakes. The added cost can deter folks however.

Travis, who's CF barrels have you used with good results?  Have you used any Hardy CF wrapped barrels or any of the Benchmark CF wrapped barrels yet??  Thanks!
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on March 09, 2017, 06:42:51 PM
I've been using the proof barrels at this time. 
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: high country on April 28, 2017, 11:50:35 AM
Has anyone used the WTO Switch Lug or a similar product? A buddy showed this to me and it looks like it could be a great thing...or it could be relying on 30 in/lbs to make or break your accuracy.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: JLR on April 28, 2017, 12:08:59 PM
Has anyone used the WTO Switch Lug or a similar product? A buddy showed this to me and it looks like it could be a great thing...or it could be relying on 30 in/lbs to make or break your accuracy.

It's certainly an interesting concept, but no, we haven't used any of those.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: ELKBURGER on April 28, 2017, 12:14:26 PM
TAG TAG TAG!!! :drool:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: opdinkslayer on June 04, 2017, 08:19:12 AM
A couple quick questions for ya. I see you guys have done 1 day intro to LR shooting & hunting classes in the past. What is the cost of doing this? Also I was wondering, I know you don't do any smithing work other than builds now, could you recommend your favorite brake and somebody on the west side to install it? Thank you
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on November 02, 2017, 02:08:44 PM
Bump....

For our OP and sponser....if you were to choose one caliber for say 800 yards max shot distance on north American game, Your build, what would it be?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: 92xj on November 02, 2017, 02:22:44 PM
north anetican game

A mofoing rocket!!!!!!
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on November 02, 2017, 02:25:26 PM
 :tup:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: 92xj on November 02, 2017, 02:28:12 PM
 :chuckle:
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Craig on November 02, 2017, 03:31:17 PM
I think the 7mm SAUM that he built for me would work great out to 800 yards. I haven't started reloading yet so ammo is hard to find and expensive.

I would like a LW Hunter in 7mm
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on November 11, 2017, 05:10:30 PM
A 7 mag or 300wm would be tough to beat.   A 7 saum would be in the running as well but the 7 mag will get you a little more.   Something like our new Carbon Hunter would give you the light weight yet still be able to run a more effective brake.   Lots of choices on cartridges that will all do the job   
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: Craig on November 12, 2017, 08:16:28 PM
My 7mm SAUM shoots lights out. 3 for 3 on hunts with it. Haven't used any of my other guns sense I got this one.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on November 26, 2017, 12:16:31 PM
Travis.....do you find your builds shoot certain bullets better? Are there certain brands (hunting w/ high bc) that you gravitate to?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on November 26, 2017, 12:52:06 PM
I primarily shoot Berger and Hornady bullets personally.  The rifles will shoot just about any bullet with a little work, but my test ammo either has Berger or Hornady bullets.  If there is factory ammo available, I will test it through them as well.  Have been really impressed with the Hornady Precision Hunter lineup.  Everything from 6 Creed to 300WM has been under 1/2 moa and very good consistency.  One of my latest LE contract builds the dept wanted to run 147 ELD match Hornady match ammo.  In testing, the ammo shot in the .1's consistently for 5 shot groups.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on November 26, 2017, 12:59:42 PM
Impressive! Thanks.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: teanawayslayer on November 26, 2017, 06:05:26 PM
What's your approximate build time right now?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on November 26, 2017, 07:35:17 PM
Most builds go out in 3-4 months
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on November 27, 2017, 03:15:08 PM
Next question.  Do you have serial numbers on your guns? I assume you have to in some manner... :dunno:?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on November 27, 2017, 06:11:27 PM
Yes they do have serial numbers
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: elkslayer069 on December 04, 2017, 11:15:18 PM
travis i have been thinking of re barreling my 338 rum you built me and going with a carbon barrel to save on weight i would want to keep the 338 rum cal could you tell me actual weight differences between them and a price quote ? Thanks
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on December 08, 2017, 06:16:16 PM
Give me a call at the shop on Monday and I can give you the info.  360-861-8195
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: b23 on December 08, 2017, 07:23:28 PM
Travis, are you mostly/only using Proof CF barrels are have you hung any others yet?  Have you heard much about the Hardy CF barrels by chance?  They aren't particularly easy to get being that they are from NZ but I've heard they shoot really well.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on December 09, 2017, 06:11:42 AM
Only using Proof at the moment.   Have messed with a few others and the quality isn't there for me to use them.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: h20hunter on December 09, 2017, 08:00:03 AM
Do you do your own coating or is that sublet out to nortwest hydro?
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: rbros on December 11, 2017, 01:00:11 PM
The only thing that leaves the shop is stocks for hydro dipping.  Everything else is done in house.
Title: Re: Ask RBros Thread
Post by: davef on April 22, 2019, 08:01:01 PM
I was reading and came across where you mentioned a self timing muzzle brake. Can you tell me more about that or give a link?