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Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Stein on October 28, 2020, 05:54:50 PM
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So, my 2000 Silverado started acting up today and hoping the pros here can help again. I'm getting a noise that starts at about 40 mph and definitely noticeable at 60-70. I can't tell where it's coming from, up front I think. It sounds like a flat tire or a plastic fender well rubbing, but I checked both and everything looks fine.
It isn't affected by braking or putting the truck in neutral while moving. When I go over a bump, it gets louder when the truck sinks down on the shocks and less when it is up on the shocks (as I go over the bump). I would say it's more of a noise than vibration although wen I go over the bump it gets louder and a low vibration. Nothing through the steering wheel or brake pedal though.
So, I'm thinking bearings or u-joints, but the neutral thing makes me think not u-joints and I don't really know what I'm doing anyway.
I'm going to lift the front and wiggle and turn the wheels to see if anything obvious jumps out. Any troubleshooting advice? I'm headed to MT in a few days and was going to leave this truck for Mrs. Stein to drive so I want to fix it asap.
Thanks in advance.
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Just fixed a problem like this on a f-150 up in the mtns. Turns out it was a strut! Damn thing threw us for a spin trying to find the noise. Have you checked your shocks?
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Can you tell where it's coming from? Can someone ride in the bed to listen for location. Wouldn't rule out u joint. Are your u joints greasable? Usually they will clunk and you will get a vibration. Have you jacked the wheel up checked for wheel movement from side to side?
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On my ford,longbed with a 2 piece driveline it was the rubber that goes around a berring,started vibration just wore out with age.
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I THINK it's the driver wheel bearing. It makes a faint noise when I spin the wheel and the other side doesn't. Neither side had any play, shocks look fine. I might peek at the u-joint to see if I see anything but if I accelerated or put it in neutral it didn't seem to change the noise at all and I would think that would be noticeable based on the last u-joint I replaced years ago.
It's $130 to see if the wheel bearing is the culprit.
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Had same issue with my Nissan Frontier, 100k
Sounded like a flat.
Needed new struts and shocks. Was told that caused cupping in the tires. Three treads one in middle worn lower.
Also check for broken plastic mud flaps.
:tup:
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Here is the noise the wheel makes when I spin it.
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Drive line or carrier bearing?
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Sounds like its coming from the hub. Is that the carrier? I was thinking about replacing the whole hub.
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Is there any way to check driveline ujoints without removing them? Maybe jack rear, put in neutral and spin both rear wheels?
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You should be able to Jack the rear up turn wheels one direction the look for slack at the u joint or carriage bearing. Alot or time shifting from drive to reverse and back will result in a clunking noise in a bad u joint
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I got sorta the same thing but only when I hit 70mph. I'd describe mine as a vibration or humming on a 05 Silverado. Tried tire pressure, rotation & rebalance but still there. Shop that put on driveline said bring it in but that was only 5 years ago with no hard 4x4ing. I'd think that would cover u-joints too unless they messed up. Prolly due for shocks but would that cause a vibration? 195k miles on her.
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Thanks Skyval, I'll try that tomorrow although a clunking noise when shifting a Chev into gear won't be a new thing. I'll listen for a different clunk or have my kids shift and I'll look.
This truck has launched boats many times, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was the rear u-joint, but I am pretty careful with keeping the truck out of the water and rinsing and it looks ok from the outside and isn't the greasable type.
I'm 70% sure it's the wheel bearing and in my line of home mechanics, that's a pretty high probability. I'll check other things like joints, shocks and the tire surfaces when it's daylight out and go from there.
Thanks.
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My guess is u-joint, which makes sense only happening under load, at certain speeds, or with certain deflection. On a driveline, you should be able to put in neutral with parking brake on and check at the tail shaft, drive shaft end and the drive shaft, differential end. Expect there to be no slop in those joints.
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U-Joints - Grab the biggest screw driver you have, jam it in there an reef/twist on it. They should not move.
Carrier Bearing - located along the drive shaft, attached to the frame - basically additional support for the drive shaft. Push up and down on it. It should be tight but they are harder to verify. They absolutely make a whirring noise as they go out. Remember, the "putting it in neutral" test does not stop the driveshaft from spinning, it just unloads it from the tyranny.
Wheel bearing making noise seems like a pretty good indicator. Especially if you have play in the wheel when wiggling it top to bottom while elevated.
Good luck.
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Sounds like its coming from the hub. Is that the carrier? I was thinking about replacing the whole hub.
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00 Silverado, uses a hub/bearing assembly on the front. They go through them regularly to say the least. Very very very likely your culprit. :twocents:
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Sounds like its coming from the hub. Is that the carrier? I was thinking about replacing the whole hub.
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00 Silverado, uses a hub/bearing assembly on the front. They go through them regularly to say the least. Very very very likely your culprit. :twocents:
That's a hub. I replaced 7 of them in my old 2002 Silverado. I got pretty good at them. Theoretically the noise should get louder when you're turning gradually to the right if it's a left hub.
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OK, follow up post. If you guessed the wheel bearing, you are correct!
If you guessed the u-joint, you are correct too! Lucky me!
I replaced the hub assembly and the steady noise went away. Surprisingly, the vibration over bumps didn't. Before I did the hub, I put it back in the air and checked the rear, driveline and both joints and everything looked fine. I spun the wheels and driveline and it all looked good.
So, I dropped the driveline and sure enough the front joint was bad. That surprises me because I've only messed with the rear one that ends up in the water a couple times a year launching at low tide. Back one was fine, front was bound up.
Back to the store, a bit of cussing and hammering and it's all back together, no noise, no vibration, good as new. Thanks to Chevy for having 157 driveline/yoke combinations and using a different u-joint for every one, that makes finding the right part real awesome. Aluminum shaft, steel yoke, extended cab, 4x4, 3 door (early year production vs 4 door), 1.063 diameter, non-greaseable, one-piece shaft, no center bearing, transmission side for the win.
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lol
Let me tell you about my $400 power steering pulley.
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Glad you figured it out! :tup:
I had a similar issue with my 1998 1988 Silverado. Shortly after I bought it in 2001. I would hear a rhythmic thump, thump, thump, low in noise level.
I asked during the test drive about the rythmic noise.
The dealer "Emerald Motors" said it was common the that year of Chevy.
Within a short time, it got much worse.
When I turned to the left it would get even more pronounced.
Had my Spicer U-joints checked out at an independent shop. They were fine.
Then we opened the rear end, and multiple teeth fell out. It had a chunk missing with many teeth from the ring gear. The weird part is the gear oil was pristine, no noticeable shavings. :bash:
So the dealer, that I bought it from "Emerald Motors" on meridian in Puyallup, I can only infer,
Took the rear end cover off.
Saw the problem, and replaced the broken teeth back in the punkin, and refilled the gear oil.
Definitely tried to cover it up.
I confronted him about it, and he lied his ass off, then when called out, threatening to call the police. Said he felt threatened.
Well I suppose he "might" have felt threatened, :dunno:
I can neither confirm nor deny bodily harm was implied. :dunno:
I had a detroit locker installed.
Still does not dismiss "Emerald Motors" and that snivelling owner are a ripoff.
I stand by that claim.
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Glad you got it resolved. :tup: I was going to offer up that it was the Muffler Bearing causing the problem..... :chuckle:
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Make sure you check the blinker fluid too