Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Ghost Hunter on May 01, 2021, 06:12:08 AM
-
Diagnose, best guess? 2005 Dodge Ram 2500, Cummins, manual trans, 4WD. Runs fine, no power issues. Shifts good, drives good. Sitting at idle, shakes like a Harley. No shaking or vibration while driving. Where would you start? Sorry, no diagnostic communication with computer.
-
I'm not a mechanic in the least. I would check engine mounts. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in here soon. Good luck.
-
You can pull the stored codes with 3 key cycles, if you didn’t know. It’ll give you a basic place to start.3 cycles, starting with the key off, ending with the key on, within 10 seconds, and you’ll start seeing codes where the odometer is, starting with the letter P. Have a pen and paper ready, then google is your friend. Mines done that at times when it’s battery voltage is low from a bad terminal end but who knows. Holler if I can help at all.
-
I'm not a mechanic in the least. I would check engine mounts. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in here soon. Good luck.
That was one of my first thoughts. Mounts are in good shape.
-
Injector could be worn. Nozzles spray pattern due to erosion of tip. Possible.. ?
-
Injector could be worn. Nozzles spray pattern due to erosion of tip. Possible.. ?
My thoughts too, I'm no mechanic. Injectors checked/tested and ruled out.
-
I have the same truck in a auto and does the same thing . 287k and still has power like new.
-
I have the same truck in a auto and does the same thing . 287k and still has power like new.
Hood shake, dash shake? Normal for it, or how long? Ever look into it?
-
🤔
-
Check your filters and belts? Cleaned the MAF?
-
Could it be a cold weather warmup feature of the ECM cutting out half tbe cylinders?
Try a reflash and get rid of it, don't need it.
Do you have a cold weather package?
-
Guess I don't feel so bad about my mechanics scratching their heads.
-
Have you checked your codes like fastass suggested?
I have an 04 and have never glass that situation.🤔
-
Have you checked your codes like fastass suggested?
I have an 04 and have never glass that situation.🤔
It's at the dealer. They say they couldn't pull any codes. Might try it when/if I get it back. :rolleyes: Past time to forget about computer diagnostics, and go old school. :twocents:
By they way, a new injector harness didn't change anything either. But keep the ideas coming. :tup:
I do have the Jacobs exhaust brake that was dealer installed at 10,000 miles.
-
Ok, got me thinking
Dampner pully bad
Engine mounts bad (i know they said otherwise but still)
Transmission mount bad
Bad injector/s
Cold weather start feature on
From here it gets spendy
-
Ok, got me thinking
Dampner pully bad
Engine mounts bad (i know they said otherwise but still)
Transmission mount bad
Bad injector/s
Cold weather start feature on
From here it gets spendy
I think your on the right track.
-
So it idles fine but shakes the whole truck? Is there any vibration felt in the clutch pedal? If the vibration dampener has a rubber band in it I would make sure it is not coming out in any location. If it idles fine I would check for vibration in the clutch pedal which could be a bad clutch or I’ve also seen a broken crankshaft. Mostly on caterpillar though. Possible motor mounts. I’ve never heard of cold weather mode cutting out cylinders. The ecm usually increases the rpm to around 1,000 to increase engine temp. Is there any smoke from the tailpipe?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met:
1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and,
2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and,
3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and,
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and,
5. Throttle = 0% and,
6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph
Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating.
Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs:
1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or,
2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or,
3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or,
4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or,
5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).
Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will reenable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle.
Prolly not it, but was thinking a coolant or intake temp sensor out
-
Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met:
1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and,
2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and,
3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and,
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and,
5. Throttle = 0% and,
6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph
Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating.
Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs:
1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or,
2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or,
3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or,
4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or,
5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).
Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will reenable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle.
Prolly not it, but was thinking a coolant or intake temp sensor out
I think you would get a code if a sensor was out.
-
Prolly, my dodges are older :)
-
So it idles fine but shakes the whole truck? Is there any vibration felt in the clutch pedal? If the vibration dampener has a rubber band in it I would make sure it is not coming out in any location. If it idles fine I would check for vibration in the clutch pedal which could be a bad clutch or I’ve also seen a broken crankshaft. Mostly on caterpillar though. Possible motor mounts. I’ve never heard of cold weather mode cutting out cylinders. The ecm usually increases the rpm to around 1,000 to increase engine temp. Is there any smoke from the tailpipe?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Manual tranny. I watch the hood and dash shake at idle. Like watching a Harley. No vibration felt in clutch pedal. No smoke. Motor mounts and dampener check OK. Usually have exhaust brake on starting. Warms up quicker. Doesn't change if on or off. Crank has been on my mind.
-
Has fuel psi been checked? I believe that year has a common rail system. Maybe check the fuel lines and rail for leaks. A little bit of fuzz around a fuel line can cause air to get in. This stuff is hard to diagnose without seeing/hearing the issue. Can be frustrating though. I had a 6.0 Ford and fought it forever.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
did they check the fan clutch?
rail pressure?
fuel return line?
FCA? fuel control actuator?
-
did they check the fan clutch?
rail pressure?
fuel return line?
FCA? fuel control actuator?
Fan clutch will throw a code.
-
Bah! you and your codes!@! :bash:
:tung: :chuckle:
-
12/7/2010. Letter from Chrysler informing that ECM extended to lifetime coverage for 2004-2005 2500/3500 5.9L.
We are extending warranty period on your ECM because it may fail to accurately report diagnostic system information.
Not sure if this is part of the problem in diagnostic issues. Lifetime means as long as parts available?
-
Bah! you and your codes!@! :bash:
:tung: :chuckle:
🤣
Mine threw the code for the fan clutch, replaced code went bye bye.😉
-
I experienced additional vibration at idle when the pilot bearing was failing in my Cummins :twocents:
-
dyhardhuntr: "I would check for vibration in the clutch pedal which could be a bad clutch or I’ve also seen a broken crankshaft."
Joyce: "I experienced additional vibration at idle when the pilot bearing was failing in my Cummins" :twocents: Anything unique about your flywheel?
These two, I hope, are very close. I had said earlier, there is no vibration in the clutch pedal. Monday, hopefully, will confirm the solution. And I will have learned something new.
Friday the transmission was removed. Mechanic said the clutch looked in good shape for 200,000 miles.
-
That is strange that you cannot pull any codes from it. I wonder if the diagnostic tool will communicate with the ecm or there are just no codes not even history codes in the ecm. I do know that dodge only allows certain pids to be read in the scan tool if it is an aftermarket one. The ecm is supplied by Chrysler and is not a product of Cummins. Hopefully the place you have taken it will not charge you for all of the time required to hunt down this issue.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
After reading all posts Im still thinking worn injectors. Connector tubes? Wasnt there an issue with a loose rail on #4? I just remembered reading forums years ago about this and it causes rough idle and leaks? 200K on injectors is alot. A simple rattle test isnt very good. Pull and bench test inj to be certain imop.
-
After reading all posts Im still thinking worn injectors. Connector tubes? Wasnt there an issue with a loose rail on #4? I just remembered reading forums years ago about this and it causes rough idle and leaks? 200K on injectors is alot. A simple rattle test isnt very good. Pull and bench test inj to be certain imop.
Injectors were all pulled and tested. Tried new injectors, no change. New injectors and other stuff fall of 2014 after it ran away with me going over pass in Idaho. :yike: But that's another story. Woodchuck knows a little of that experience, towed to his shop the following spring 2015, to repair and replace what Idaho shop left off.
-
Someone mentioned the damper pulley, Thats my first thought after injectors.
I had my 06 start to shimmy so I replaced the damper with a Fluid Damper from Xtreme Diesel and it fixed the issue.
Spendy but it did the trick.
-
Just picked it up. Idler bearing shot, and loose springs in flywheel. Running smooth now. Got a new clutch and pressure plate too.
-
Right on. :tup: Hope it runs smooth now.
-
That was my next guess ;)
-
That was my next guess ;)
:tup: That's what the mechanic said. Over and over. :chuckle: :chuckle:
-
That was my next guess ;)
:tup: That's what the mechanic said. Over and over. :chuckle: :chuckle:
That had to be comforting ☺
-
Thanks to the initial post and to all that posted! Very informative. These trucks are very dear to many of our hearts and we need to keep them on the road! :tup:
-
Just picked it up. Idler bearing shot, and loose springs in flywheel. Running smooth now. Got a new clutch and pressure plate too.
Which won’t throw codes.
@KFhunter. 🤣
-
That's funny lol!
Well not for ghost hunter, he spent some bux
-
Who knew a flywheel had springs. :dunno: :o Guess I'm still old school chevy. :chuckle: I mentioned when I took it in, " I've been expecting it to be due for a clutch".
-
Lots of things won’t set codes. Lots and lots of things.
The tough thing about clutches and associated parts is it’s tough to accurately diagnose a problem there when you can’t see it. Most technicians don’t like to guess what’s wrong with a vehicle. They want to be able to verify it. Sometimes to be able to verify something, things need to come apart. Sometimes they’re wrong. Not often( at least not the good techs) but sometimes. Sometimes it’s a process of elimination.
Glad they got it fixed for you.
-
Who knew a flywheel had springs. :dunno: :o Guess I'm still old school chevy. :chuckle: I mentioned when I took it in, " I've been expecting it to be due for a clutch".
They all have springs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210504/cd65277bf4f27ae5169d684a5ad61c05.jpg)
-
Who knew a flywheel had springs. :dunno: :o Guess I'm still old school chevy. :chuckle: I mentioned when I took it in, " I've been expecting it to be due for a clutch".
They all have springs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210504/cd65277bf4f27ae5169d684a5ad61c05.jpg)
Clutch, yes. It's the 2 piece heavy flywheel that was new to me.
-
I'll be in the office Wednesday and Thursday. If you're coming through one of those days let me know and I'll set them outside the fence on the gravel driveway. Grab them whenever is convenient for you. Good luck!
-
And option to convert.
https://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-dodge-cummins-solid-flywheel-conversion-kits.aspx
-
Who knew a flywheel had springs. :dunno: :o Guess I'm still old school chevy. :chuckle: I mentioned when I took it in, " I've been expecting it to be due for a clutch".
They all have springs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210504/cd65277bf4f27ae5169d684a5ad61c05.jpg)
Clutch, yes. It's the 2 piece heavy flywheel that was new to me.
Dual mass flywheel I think they call it. I really derped on that picture I posted. Oops.
-
Lots of things won’t set codes. Lots and lots of things.
The tough thing about clutches and associated parts is it’s tough to accurately diagnose a problem there when you can’t see it. Most technicians don’t like to guess what’s wrong with a vehicle. They want to be able to verify it. Sometimes to be able to verify something, things need to come apart. Sometimes they’re wrong. Not often( at least not the good techs) but sometimes. Sometimes it’s a process of elimination.
Glad they got it fixed for you.
Oh, that's how you do it? If there isn't a code, I start with the cheapest part that could be the cause and keep replacing increasingly expensive parts until I get the right one. I figure any wrong guesses would need to be replaced at some point anyways. :chuckle:
-
Lots of things won’t set codes. Lots and lots of things.
The tough thing about clutches and associated parts is it’s tough to accurately diagnose a problem there when you can’t see it. Most technicians don’t like to guess what’s wrong with a vehicle. They want to be able to verify it. Sometimes to be able to verify something, things need to come apart. Sometimes they’re wrong. Not often( at least not the good techs) but sometimes. Sometimes it’s a process of elimination.
Glad they got it fixed for you.
Oh, that's how you do it? If there isn't a code, I start with the cheapest part that could be the cause and keep replacing increasingly expensive parts until I get the right one. I figure any wrong guesses would need to be replaced at some point anyways. :chuckle:
To their credit, any part put on that didn't change or improve conditions came back off and I wasn't billed. Not that bottom line wasn't a chunk of change. :yike: Stimulus funds are gone and some. :( It runs better, drives better, and that gives me piece of mind. :tup: Hopefully this is one hunting season I won't need a tow, knock on wood.
-
Sounds like you have a good mechanic there!
-
Next time remove that crappy dual mass flywheel n put a Valair or south bend kit in. I did on my 06 and it was Great!
-
Didn't have time to research and make a decision. Another 15 years and 200,000 miles to decide, if it gets the same mileage.
-
I’d start with injectors or your injector pump, all the pump does is make pressure
For the injectors to pop off, those themselves being a precision machines spring loaded device that when the proper pressure is obtained by the pump they atomize fuel, which is why in many manufacturers refer to injectors as nozzles or atomizers.
There could be a worn pintle inside the nozzle, a or a delivery valve may be worn inside the injection pump itself.
One thing to try would be unscrewing your fuel filter and filling it 100% full of
Marvel mystery oil, priming the system and running that through. No worries I’ve started 700+Hp diesels on straight mystery oil. It really cleans up and lubes up pumps and injectors.
Modern diesel is a very dry fuel with very little lubricants left in it due
To emissions.
I’d start there
Then do a compression test
Adjust your idle speed perhaps
And check your turbo for lash on the compressor wheel
Set your intake/exhaust valves too
Also on the 6BT platform the intake should have a preheater/air charge warmer which if that’s not functioning will cause a very rough idle until the engine has reached operating temperature as diesels are very temperature sensitive and will run very rough if they aren’t totally warm
-
I’d start with injectors or your injector pump, all the pump does is make pressure
For the injectors to pop off, those themselves being a precision machines spring loaded device that when the proper pressure is obtained by the pump they atomize fuel, which is why in many manufacturers refer to injectors as nozzles or atomizers.
There could be a worn pintle inside the nozzle, a or a delivery valve may be worn inside the injection pump itself.
One thing to try would be unscrewing your fuel filter and filling it 100% full of
Marvel mystery oil, priming the system and running that through. No worries I’ve started 700+Hp diesels on straight mystery oil. It really cleans up and lubes up pumps and injectors.
Modern diesel is a very dry fuel with very little lubricants left in it due
To emissions.
I’d start there
Then do a compression test
Adjust your idle speed perhaps
And check your turbo for lash on the compressor wheel
Set your intake/exhaust valves too
Also on the 6BT platform the intake should have a preheater/air charge warmer which if that’s not functioning will cause a very rough idle until the engine has reached operating temperature as diesels are very temperature sensitive and will run very rough if they aren’t totally warm
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
And your suggestions didn’t fix it. :hello:
-
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
And your suggestions didn’t fix it. :hello:
Yeah, that's what we all thought, right? :rolleyes: Good news is I had enough time to get our frig repaired(been down for a week) and working this morning for the wife before I left. :tup:
Rest of the news.........Had truck all loaded and trailer hooked. Headed out at 11:00 this morning, made it 10 miles before I heard a pop and power dropped, and a engine light indicator came on. Managed to turn around, limp home and park trailer and truck in shop. Now I'm wondering just who I pissed off so bad. :dunno:
-
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
And your suggestions didn’t fix it. :hello:
Yeah, that's what we all thought, right? :rolleyes: Good news is I had enough time to get our frig repaired(been down for a week) and working this morning for the wife before I left. :tup:
Rest of the news.........Had truck all loaded and trailer hooked. Headed out at 11:00 this morning, made it 10 miles before I heard a pop and power dropped, and a engine light indicator came on. Managed to turn around, limp home and park trailer and truck in shop. Now I'm wondering just who I pissed off so bad. :dunno:
Did power cut out, and then come back!
-
Power definitely did not come back. And there is noise that shouldn't be there.
-
The saga continues!
-
Check to see if a Boost tube popped off.
Between turbo pipe - cooler then cooler- intake.
Maybe someone didn't clamp one down tight enough.
-
He said that it is back in the emergency ward. It is better there than doing treage on the shoulder around Connell.
-
He said that it is back in the emergency ward. It is better there than doing treage on the shoulder around Connell.
Sitting in my shop where I nursed it back too. Still waiting on a tow to get it to mechanic, unless they plan on a house call. I can't find anything loose. And I don't want to mess up any codes it might have. Time to start unloading coolers. :bash:
-
He said that it is back in the emergency ward. It is better there than doing treage on the shoulder around Connell.
Sitting in my shop where I nursed it back too. Still waiting on a tow to get it to mechanic, unless they plan on a house call. I can't find anything loose. And I don't want to mess up any codes it might have. Time to start unloading coolers. :bash:
Unloaded and waiting for a Monday tow back to mechanic. Anyone want a spring bear tag?
-
So i actually work for a Cummins dealer.... not a truck guy but seen every ounce of abuse these 6B engines can take in a boat....
News travels slow in my parts but..... :hello:
-
And your suggestions didn’t fix it. :hello:
And apparently the other mechanic didn’t either :chuckle:
-
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
Dude he already got it fixed, read back a few posts.🤣
And your suggestions didn’t fix it. :hello:
Yeah, that's what we all thought, right? :rolleyes: Good news is I had enough time to get our frig repaired(been down for a week) and working this morning for the wife before I left. :tup:
Rest of the news.........Had truck all loaded and trailer hooked. Headed out at 11:00 this morning, made it 10 miles before I heard a pop and power dropped, and a engine light indicator came on. Managed to turn around, limp home and park trailer and truck in shop. Now I'm wondering just who I pissed off so bad. :dunno:
Almost sounds like one of your CAC tubes popped off.
-
Almost sounds like one of your CAC tubes popped off.
Or vacuum pump? Leaking air. Going to be my best guess, blew vacuum pump, but why? Will be 3rd one since new.
-
This story just does not have an end. :bdid: Noise and loss of power was a 'loose' lifter and bent push rod. :o :dunno: Decided to replace vacuum pump before it gave up it's last. Anyone priced a new vacuum pump for the Jacobs brake? Opted for a remanufactured from NAPA. Installed and pick truck up this afternoon. Didn't make it out of sight and exhaust brake wasn't working.
Back to shop, pop the hood and look at freshly installed pump in two pieces. Four bolts hand pulled out of aluminum housing. :yike: :o. Waiting for new pump to $how. Operating costs seemed to have spiked in the last 5000 miles.
-
Dude you can’t catch a break.🤯
-
Your truck still in the hospital or has it been discharged yet?
-
About every 3rd month a diesel truck horror story thread pops up on Huntwa.
Whos the guy, from last year I think, that had 2 engines blow up in his half ton Dodge? Dealership kept blaming bad fuel or such?
You know what we are all thinking Ghost Hunter don't cha? $$$$$$$$...how much dis costing you bruh?
-
About every 3rd month a diesel truck horror story thread pops up on Huntwa.
Whos the guy, from last year I think, that had 2 engines blow up in his half ton Dodge? Dealership kept blaming bad fuel or such?
You know what we are all thinking Ghost Hunter don't cha? $$$$$$$$...how much dis costing you bruh?
:yeah: :'( :chuckle: Just a teaser. In round numbers, NAPA rebuilt vacuum pump is $300, new OEM vacuum pump is $1700 - 1800, which is more than the original Jacobs brake system cost installed.
So far it's cost 1/2 spring bear season, one month out of the 8 months I can access my property on Kelly Hill, my winter weight keeps going up because I haven't started my workout routine of cutting firewood/building fence/thinning timber, and a few $K in repairs. Did I mention stress level, I'm in coasting mode now. :dunno: ;)
-
Your truck still in the hospital or has it been discharged yet?
Discharged yesterday afternoon for a drive around the block and back into the shop. Ain't no making this stuff up.
-
And the prognosis is?
-
Out of the shop and heading home to load up. :tup:
-
With the track record so far you are going head east? Not hang around for a day or two.
-
We're pulling for you Ghost Hunter. If I were in your position, I'd have run out of things to throw by now! >:(
-
Keep your foot on the throttle and head East!
Full send!
-
I got the motivation. I know a bear went down deep in the woods, a few moments ago. :tup:
-
Bear ran across the road couple miles north of noisy waters
-
Keep your foot on the throttle and head East!
Full send!
:tup: That's the plan come dawn. :4w:
-
Good luck on your trip
You’re in Dodge so you’ll be just fine.
-
Probably just a lift pump going bad lol there aint much to go wrong with em. Im at 290k on my 03...replaced a fan clutch cuz the wires were cut when i got it and a lift pump on it and that is it. Other than alot of transmission work but the engine is tough as nails....
-
is it smoking more too and idling just a tad high ????