Tips and tricks thread

[Hank]

Hank Tip #3

Most of you aware that cats and other fur bearers don't like to walk on the cage wire in the bottom of the traps. My solution is this.

First I find my location. I try to find a place that either has a think layer of moss or some nice sod built up. I set my cage down and I use my trawl trace around the outside of the trap. I pick up the trap and then I try to pull up the sod in one or two big pieces. I set the trap back down where the sod was and then I lay the sod in the bottom of the cage. It's a lot easier then trying to shovel dirt into the bottom of the trap and it will look exactly like the surrounding landscape.

Now allow me to get on my soapbox for a second. There are a lot of experienced trappers on this board and there is a ton of new people. This thread is an excellent way that we can mentor them. The future of trapping lies in the hands of the younger generation. If some of you more experienced folk haven't shared any of your sage wisdom please take this opportunity to do so, in a small way you may help to save trapping.

OK I'm off my soapbox happy trapping everyone.

[Turner89]

I like that Hank 

[Humptulips]

Hank,
You convinced me to throw my two cents into the conversation about trap covering.
I'm talking cat sets here. I usually scoop up a bunch of leaves, alder mostly and throw it into the trap for floor covering. Now if you have one of my traps or are using a Comstock with the wire triggers this can create a problem with springing the trap. I cut a stick like three feet long and use that to push leaves past the wire triggers. It is really fast to get a set in.
I mentioned cutting a stick. I have found a pair of pruning shears to be just about invaluable. I cut covering for the trap, trim around the door and cut off things in the way when placing the trap. Fits in my pocket too.
I'll mention something I think we should all do and I think most don't. That is to wire your trap to something. Water sets and land sets. I would have lost a lot of traps in floods if I didn't do this.
Land sets can go MIA too. With a wire you know where it is. I've spent a bunch of time looking for traps cougars, bears and people have made off with. The people, well you can't get those traps back but at least you know right away what happened.

[Trapper John]

Hank Tip #3

Now allow me to get on my soapbox for a second. There are a lot of experienced trappers on this board and there is a ton of new people. This thread is an excellent way that we can mentor them. The future of trapping lies in the hands of the younger generation. If some of you more experienced folk haven't shared any of your sage wisdom please take this opportunity to do so, in a small way you may help to save trapping.

OK I'm off my soapbox happy trapping everyone.

I like it Hank.
When I was a young guy growing up I went into the carpenter trade.  I joined the carpenters union and those old guys didn't like to teach or pass on anything that they knew.  I remembered a old carpenter telling me if I teach you how to do that, you will take my job away from me.  I use to say to them, well your going to retire some day and you really want someone to know what you know.  I have always liked to pass on what I know.  Trapping has been around for several centuries now and I would like to see it be around for a few more too.

JC's Tip #4         Trap Preparations
All traps need to be cleaned and adjusted on a regular bases including cage traps.  With foot-holds and conibears, they need to be cleaned from rust, dirt and odors.  They need to be dipped or painted too to preserve the metal.  Cage traps including colony traps need to be done also.  The cage needs to be cleaned from mud,dirt, weeds, odor, and dipped or painted.

With all colony traps including muskrat and larger size for beaver and otter the weeds needs to be taken off.  Like a boat trailer, don't throw that trap with weeds on it, (the one that you just pulled from one waterway area) into another waterway before cleaning it from all weeds.   At the end of the season I will check over all of my colony traps and with muskrat colonies, I will brush them down with a wire brush.  With the weeds dry they come off easy with the wire brush.

To get the odor off of your cage traps; take them to a car wash or when your washing you car at home, clean them at the same time.   Use soap and water on them.  Brush them down with a hard brush and raise and let stand to dry.  Once they are dry I will spray paint them either with green, black or brown paint.
From the "Old Guy" JC   

[jasnt]

Building traps for the first time I'm learning quite a bit. What's your meathods of bending rod steel? I've been sticking it in a hole in a big peace of steel and using either my hands or a small pipe to bend my corners. I'm thinking about building a bender to improve my proses. Any tips on bending rod or wire?

[kirkdekalb]

How the trap is placed when making sets is important. A door position can be critical to the set depending on the type of door and trigger. Trap may need to be shifted, forward or backward (up or down) according to terrain. How open the set appears is crucial.

If I did this right a diagram will post that I handed out at the SENTA, during demo.

[cat daddy]

Ok, I'm only going to share 1 tip, but it's a good one. Never, and I mean never try to bikini wax a chimpanzee with your good clothes on.

[jasnt]

Ok, I'm only going to share 1 tip, but it's a good one. Never, and I mean never try to bikini wax a chimpanzee with your good clothes on.

lmao

[Carp Commander]

I have found that the best way to dry/prep any fur before skinning is by using an air compressor.

Once the animals are laid out or hanging use the air compressor to blow out the water, seeds, dirt and any other debris.

Makes a ratty, wet mess look great and ready for skinning in a very short amount of time.

Make sure to check for burs before fleshing, especially on long haired land animals.

The air compressor does great on water, dirt and grass but won't take a bur out of coyote.

Only 31 days and a wake up!
Doug

[Turner89]

I'll start using the compressor
 Halfway through last season my friend told me to use very fine sawdust while skinning otter, and mink. It makes it easier to grab, and pull when skinning.

[Carp Commander]

I'll start using the compressor
 Halfway through last season my friend told me to use very fine sawdust while skinning otter, and mink. It makes it easier to grab, and pull when skinning.

Saw dust works good especially with fatty critters but I have always hated the extra mess. I use old rags. You'll be amazed at how good a grip you can get by using an old towel.

Doug

[countrystyle4life]

Love this thread! Keep them coming, I am leaning a ton from you guys!

[jasnt]

I finially have some expirence to add to this thread.

When building colony traps I like to fold them so that the vertical bars on my wire are inside and horizontal bars to the out side so the doors don't hang up on the sides.
Hope that makes sence.

[Hannibal]

Be organized...............

[Hannibal]

Never trust anyone........