Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that cam system.
It doesn't look like there is a buss, do you have 2 cables and string? I'm not sure how'd you increase/decrease draw weight, but it would be a combo of twists somewhere!
So left and right are going to have to be at the rest or else you will have to shim, which is probably unnecessary.
Basically, you want to get everything in the right starting point before tuning.
I forgot to mention cam timing, get those hitting exact, before tying in your nocks and dloop. You don't want to tie everything in, get everything perfect centershot, then realize you need to adjust your timing.
Put twists in whatever cam is hitting first till they are synced up. This will need to be rechecked after 50 to 100 shots.
Run your arrow generally from the bottom of the arrow to the bottom of berger hole to the middle of hole, but check into best specs for your bow.
Then eyeball the arrows along side the riser and shelve to get your arrow as close to centershot as possible.
Tie in your nocks and dloop, your peep (make sure to tie around the peep itself) and then shoot 50 to 100. Work on your form, execution, get your peep exactly where you want it. Chalk up your vanes to make sure there isn't any contact anywhere. Work on draw length and make any adjustments there too.
Recheck timing, get it perfect. Recheck centershot, adjust as needed.
Shoot your arrows through paper, and turn the nock 1/3 or 1/4 based on fletches to see if the tear changes, you want all arrows acting the same. IF you can't get then the same, you have a grip/torque problem or your draw length maybe too long or face contact.
Now start addressing tears. left/rights will be at the rest. Go opposite your tears and same as bareshaft impacts. So left tear, move your rest right, bareshafts hit left, move your rest left.
Up/down you can work your control cables first and then your rest second. Sometimes it will take a combo of both. High tears work top cam, low tears work bottom, add half twists at a time to see if it fixes/changes anything. If it doesn't then leave it, and work your rest. bareshaft high work bottom, low work top.
High tear, move rest up, bareshaft high move rest down.
Most likely you may now have a top or bottom cam hitting first....that's okay. Seems now a days with the bows, a little top first and a little nock high seem to be common.
Paper tune at 5 feet to 15 feet.
Barshaft tune 5 yards to 30 yards. A good exercise especially if you don't have a lot of room, is to shot a fletched arrow, pull it, then shoot your bareshaft to try to hit the exact same hole. You goal is to do this from as far away as possible.
Walk back tune for final micro adjust at rest left or right, if you got to right, you most likely won't need to do this, but I always like to check. it's amazing what 1/32" at the rest will have zero affect sub 20 yards, but once you get out to 40+ it will show up. I usually don't even have to move my sights and the arrows pull in line.
Here's what I posted a little while ago, a few more tidbits in there, but again not for your cam system:
https://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,245274.msg3291222.html#msg3291222Good luck, don't drive yourself crazy!