Broadheads ?

[JakeLand]

New to shooting bows and wondering what your favorite broadheads are ? 125 grain is what I’m looking for and fixed blade for elk hunting
Thanks for any and all responses!

[hughjorgan]

Been using slick trick magnums. Fly well readily available pretty much any where that sells archery gear.

[Crunchy]

Another Slicktrick user here. 

[fishngamereaper]

Radical archery 
Rival or madman.
I think he's got a 4th of July sale right now to.
Was/is on Huntwa...

[MIKEXRAY]

G5 Striker V2's is what I've used for three years in 125 gr and I don't see a reason to try anything else.  Lots of choices out there,  good luck. 

[grousetracker]

love slicktricks or montec g5

[Rutnbuxnbulls]

I’ve used Shuttle Ts for ten years now, since starting bow hunting. I like their accuracy and they fly very similar to my field points. All pass throughs except one buck where the broadhead broke the front leg.

[scotsman]

Magnus Stinger 4 blade

[TeacherMan]

Nothing beats a 3 blade Muzzy 😎 And I prefer 100gr.

[WapitiTalk1]

Magnus Stinger 4 blade

This…. a true CoC head. They are devastating.

[carpsniperg2]

Radical archery 
Rival or madman.
I think he's got a 4th of July sale right now to.
Was/is on Huntwa...

Only broadhead I will screw onto my arrows as long as RAD is making them!!!

[trophyhunt]

I’ve used Shuttle Ts for ten years now, since starting bow hunting. I like their accuracy and they fly very similar to my field points. All pass throughs except one buck where the broadhead broke the front leg.

love my shuttle T’s, big holes!!

[vandeman17]

iron will 150s here

[jrebel]

Slick trick standard 125's is what we use and have killed many elk with over the years.  Tougher than nails and fly like field points. 

[blackveltbowhunter]

My advice don't over analyze. I have shot one broadhead I will never use again, they are no longer produced. Broadhead competition is so high everyone better make a good one or it won't last.

Sharpest out of package (no particular order):
Iron will
G5 stryker
Grim reaper hades
RAD ti con
Most single bevel options

Most accurate and forgiving:
RAD ti con
Grim reaper Micro Hades pro
Muzzy trocar
Slick trick standard

Quietest:
Hard to say, solids tend to do well overall.
G5 M3





 

[JakeLand]

I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$

[jrebel]

I will also say that broadheads are kind of like factory ammo in rifles.  Shoot a few and find out which one flies the best and is quiet out of your bow. 

A lot of people like the Montec G5.....it sounded like a whistle dart coming out of a nerf gun when I shot it.  That eliminated that one immediately for me.  I used to shoot and....LOVED....the shuttle T's and they make big holes.  I stopped because they were so inconsistent.  Six would shoot same POI as my broadheads then one wouldn't.  Settled on Slick Trick Standard 125's because they all shoot same POI as my broadheads.  Over years they have proven to be very effective on game. 

If I were you.....I would look to members to see if you could gather a couple broadheads to try.  See what works well out of your bow and go with that.  I would gladly donate a Slick Trick Standard 125 and maybe others (If I still have them).

[Feathernfurr]

My biggest consideration is sharpness out of the box. If it can’t shave hair out of the package I won’t shoot it. I don’t have the desire to have to sharpen a product that I pay for to be ready to use. Good flight is important but can always be tuned. I shot 2 and 4 blade wac’em fixed blades for a long time because they flew well and were sharp as hell. Have recent swapped to g5 deadmeats. I shot exclusively fixed blades when I hunted with just a recurve. With a compound I’m putting more investment in planning for a big hole in the right place than concerning myself with will I hit a shoulder. That’s an entirely different conversation and argument.

Shoot what flys well for you, and is stupid sharp. Regardless of brand and diameter, if you put it in the pump house, you’re good to go.

I will say, the iron wills are cool. But I’m personally in the mindset of what is easily attainable. I do a little bit of traveling to hunt and want a product that should be readily available at a big chain store in case something gets forgotten or goes missing.

[blackveltbowhunter]

I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$

They are pricey. Scary sharp out of box. Fit and finish is second to none. Very tough good penetrating head. They are a solid choice.

  Couple things to note, as education piece so no surprises. The steel has a high carbon content hence the edge development and the ability to sharpen by hand to that razor edge.  If hunting in wet stuff make sure and dip them in a coating as they will develop pretty significant surface rust. Vaseline works great and is cheap or a good blade wax if getting picky. Have had good luck with MKC blade wax.
   Strongly consider a high profile vane like a AAE max hunter, hybrid hunter, or blazer style vane with some offset or helical. They solids certainly seem to prefer the extra stability and as we know although the bow may enter the woods perfectly tuned, the stress as season wears on is not easy on equipment, add in shooter breakdown during periods of not shooting and high stress shots at the moment of truth and getting the max advantage from that arrow BH combo is huge.

[dilleytech]

I have been really impressed with how strong slick tricks are when hitting bone and how sharp they are when you pull them out of the dirt. I like the grizz trick cut on contact designs for elk. But shoot the magnums for bear and deer.

[mburrows]

RAD Ti Cons and Iron Will are my favorite and I carry both in my quiver while hunting. I also really like the Sevr for a mechanical.

I carry 3 iron wills, 3 ti cons and 1 sevr when Im hunting in case things get western.

[kodiak06]

Slick trick magnums with 70# bow and Slick trick Viper tricks with my 60# bow.
Before that, thunderheads. This topic is like a ford-chevy topic, nothing but preference.

[eastfork]

evolution outdoors. awesome changeable from a fixed to hybrid. great cut on contact head. wont be dissapointed.

[Atlas1993]

QAD Exodus 125gn

[geauxtigers]

I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago.  Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week.  Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up. 

What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated?   Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will).  Thoughts?


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[geauxtigers]

I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago.  Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week.  Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up. 

What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated?   Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will).  Thoughts?


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I’ve tried to upload a photo with this post about 6 times…something’s not working today, have tried TapaTalk and straight to forum website


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[blackveltbowhunter]

Try resizing the photo with a screenshot if you haven't already done so. This seems to work for me.

As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard,  just something to take into consideration. My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially.  The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.

[geauxtigers]

Try resizing the photo with a screenshot if you haven't already done so. This seems to work for me.

As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard, . My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially.  The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.

Thanks, I’ll try the photo again when I’m off a plane.  Based on what I saw, I’m pretty sure the arrow stopped with broadhead sticking out one side and fletching hanging out the other (entry side), until the bull laid/fell down.  Nothing especially hard where he laid down, just dirt and some downed logs but nothing rocky.


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[blackveltbowhunter]

Gotcha.
 Depending on where and how things ended up it's hard to say. The arrow could have had significant bone contact prior to punching through which can damage the best. If the arrow didn't come completely out it could have sustained damage while the bull was moving.  Lots of scenarios. 

 It sounds like it did it's job for the most part. If it hit where you wanted, it got through 2 sides, and remained intact? Did the non chipped areas hold and edge? If so that's solid work. Getting more blood on the ground is a tough. 2 blade fixed heads IME just tend to not leave as much blood if no major artery is severed. I prefer 3 or 4 blade fixed or mechanical for this reason. Obviously the hit itself plays a significant role, after that how much of a hole gets cut is the next big factor.  For the most part in theory you end up trading hole size for penetration. 

[MAVsled]

I used Slick Tricks for many years.

5 years ago, switched to Iron Will, Solid-S, 125gr.
the amount of devastation into and out of an elk, between the Slick and IW is night and day. Iron Will performance is superior.

[jasnt]

I’m using rf 200 single bevel sharpened to hair popping and then stropped.   Penetrated 3ft of deer this year and died in view.

[geauxtigers]

I’m using rf 200 single bevel sharpened to hair popping and then stropped.   Penetrated 3ft of deer this year and died in view.

What is that sharpener in the picture?


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[jasnt]

I’m using rf 200 single bevel sharpened to hair popping and then stropped.   Penetrated 3ft of deer this year and died in view.

What is that sharpener in the picture?


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It’s a work sharp

[geauxtigers]

Here is a photo of my broadhead I mentioned

[coachcw]

I've used shuttle T's for years and tested a ton of others in the past it held up the best going through a scapula bone . I will Say The Grim reapers  make a nasty wound channel but require maintenance  if they get dirty they will stick closed .

[Mtnwalker]

I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago.  Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week.  Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up. 

What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated?   Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will).  Thoughts?


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Unless you're completely stuck on the whole single-bevel thing you might also look at D6 evo's. Bleeders available to help with blood trail and they are insanely sharp out of the box. I pounded a steel culvert at 50 yards with one and couldn't tell it apart from the brand new ones afterwards. So far very happy, but lots of good heads on the market these days.

[Sakko300wsm]

I've used shuttle T's for years and tested a ton of others in the past it held up the best going through a scapula bone . I will Say The Grim reapers  make a nasty wound channel but require maintenance  if they get dirty they will stick closed .

Another Shuttle T fan here - been shooting them for quite a few years with zero issues

[andersonjk4]

I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$

I picked up archery back in 2020 and decided to go with Iron Will solids.  I originally went with 125s but ended up trading a buddy for 100s because my arrows were a bit underspined for 125x with 50 grain inserts.  Anyway, I got my first shot at a critter this year and the Iron Will performed extremely well.  Shot was 35ish yards on a large spike elk.  I hit a bit high and caught the edge of the scapula as well as some rib on the way in.  Good double lung hit and the elk only went 30 yards before tipping over.  The broadhead stopped against the offside hide which was a bit discouraging, but I also didn't spend as much time resharpening the broadhead as I should have after shooting it into foam several times.  Broadhead was recovered from the animal and shows no signs of damage and will be resharped and put back in the quiver for late deer season.  Very small sample size, but I was impressed with the amount of damage inflicted and can't complain when the animal tips over in-sight from a double lung hit.       

[blackveltbowhunter]

If looking for a more durable edge start with a double bevel and possibly a different brand. Iron will is an awesome head.

[kodiak06]

Slick Trick Magnums with my 70# bow and ST Viper Tricks with my 60# bow, killed elk with both. I just ordered G5 Striker X 125s to test on a whitetail this year. It has a 'lil more cutting diameter than the ST

[stickflngr]

hunted for years using ST razor tricks but last year switched to 100gn Annihilator Broadheads.

[Carwash]

Radical Madmans or Magnus Stinger buzzcut