Broadheads ?

[JakeLand]

I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$

[jrebel]

I will also say that broadheads are kind of like factory ammo in rifles.  Shoot a few and find out which one flies the best and is quiet out of your bow. 

A lot of people like the Montec G5.....it sounded like a whistle dart coming out of a nerf gun when I shot it.  That eliminated that one immediately for me.  I used to shoot and....LOVED....the shuttle T's and they make big holes.  I stopped because they were so inconsistent.  Six would shoot same POI as my broadheads then one wouldn't.  Settled on Slick Trick Standard 125's because they all shoot same POI as my broadheads.  Over years they have proven to be very effective on game. 

If I were you.....I would look to members to see if you could gather a couple broadheads to try.  See what works well out of your bow and go with that.  I would gladly donate a Slick Trick Standard 125 and maybe others (If I still have them).

[Feathernfurr]

My biggest consideration is sharpness out of the box. If it can’t shave hair out of the package I won’t shoot it. I don’t have the desire to have to sharpen a product that I pay for to be ready to use. Good flight is important but can always be tuned. I shot 2 and 4 blade wac’em fixed blades for a long time because they flew well and were sharp as hell. Have recent swapped to g5 deadmeats. I shot exclusively fixed blades when I hunted with just a recurve. With a compound I’m putting more investment in planning for a big hole in the right place than concerning myself with will I hit a shoulder. That’s an entirely different conversation and argument.

Shoot what flys well for you, and is stupid sharp. Regardless of brand and diameter, if you put it in the pump house, you’re good to go.

I will say, the iron wills are cool. But I’m personally in the mindset of what is easily attainable. I do a little bit of traveling to hunt and want a product that should be readily available at a big chain store in case something gets forgotten or goes missing.

[blackveltbowhunter]

I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$

They are pricey. Scary sharp out of box. Fit and finish is second to none. Very tough good penetrating head. They are a solid choice.

  Couple things to note, as education piece so no surprises. The steel has a high carbon content hence the edge development and the ability to sharpen by hand to that razor edge.  If hunting in wet stuff make sure and dip them in a coating as they will develop pretty significant surface rust. Vaseline works great and is cheap or a good blade wax if getting picky. Have had good luck with MKC blade wax.
   Strongly consider a high profile vane like a AAE max hunter, hybrid hunter, or blazer style vane with some offset or helical. They solids certainly seem to prefer the extra stability and as we know although the bow may enter the woods perfectly tuned, the stress as season wears on is not easy on equipment, add in shooter breakdown during periods of not shooting and high stress shots at the moment of truth and getting the max advantage from that arrow BH combo is huge.

[dilleytech]

I have been really impressed with how strong slick tricks are when hitting bone and how sharp they are when you pull them out of the dirt. I like the grizz trick cut on contact designs for elk. But shoot the magnums for bear and deer.

[mburrows]

RAD Ti Cons and Iron Will are my favorite and I carry both in my quiver while hunting. I also really like the Sevr for a mechanical.

I carry 3 iron wills, 3 ti cons and 1 sevr when Im hunting in case things get western.

[kodiak06]

Slick trick magnums with 70# bow and Slick trick Viper tricks with my 60# bow.
Before that, thunderheads. This topic is like a ford-chevy topic, nothing but preference.

[eastfork]

evolution outdoors. awesome changeable from a fixed to hybrid. great cut on contact head. wont be dissapointed.

[Atlas1993]

QAD Exodus 125gn

[geauxtigers]

I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago.  Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week.  Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up. 

What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated?   Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will).  Thoughts?


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[geauxtigers]

I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago.  Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week.  Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up. 

What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated?   Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will).  Thoughts?


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I’ve tried to upload a photo with this post about 6 times…something’s not working today, have tried TapaTalk and straight to forum website


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[blackveltbowhunter]

Try resizing the photo with a screenshot if you haven't already done so. This seems to work for me.

As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard,  just something to take into consideration. My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially.  The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.

[geauxtigers]

Try resizing the photo with a screenshot if you haven't already done so. This seems to work for me.

As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard, . My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially.  The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.

Thanks, I’ll try the photo again when I’m off a plane.  Based on what I saw, I’m pretty sure the arrow stopped with broadhead sticking out one side and fletching hanging out the other (entry side), until the bull laid/fell down.  Nothing especially hard where he laid down, just dirt and some downed logs but nothing rocky.


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[blackveltbowhunter]

Gotcha.
 Depending on where and how things ended up it's hard to say. The arrow could have had significant bone contact prior to punching through which can damage the best. If the arrow didn't come completely out it could have sustained damage while the bull was moving.  Lots of scenarios. 

 It sounds like it did it's job for the most part. If it hit where you wanted, it got through 2 sides, and remained intact? Did the non chipped areas hold and edge? If so that's solid work. Getting more blood on the ground is a tough. 2 blade fixed heads IME just tend to not leave as much blood if no major artery is severed. I prefer 3 or 4 blade fixed or mechanical for this reason. Obviously the hit itself plays a significant role, after that how much of a hole gets cut is the next big factor.  For the most part in theory you end up trading hole size for penetration. 

[MAVsled]

I used Slick Tricks for many years.

5 years ago, switched to Iron Will, Solid-S, 125gr.
the amount of devastation into and out of an elk, between the Slick and IW is night and day. Iron Will performance is superior.