| Equipment & Gear > Power Equipment & RV |
| RV floor repair, have you done it |
| (1/4) > >> |
| NOCK NOCK:
Need to remove all front cabinets to repair water damaged floor. Any tips/help info? |
| Humptulips:
I have done it. The deeper I went the more I found. In the end I made a good repair but for all the work I would have been better to have just scrapped the whole thing. I would be willing to bet the rotten floor extends under the wall, in which case it is not worth making it all right. You might be better off cutting to the edge of the cabinets and replacing just what is bad that you are standing on and forgetting about the rest. IMO it is on borrowed time. Probably not what you wanted to hear. |
| Widgeondeke:
Agree that you will be chasing it. Very likely the joist underneath are bad. I tore apart the entire kitchen area of an older trailer. It was worth it at the time. Had a new trailer that had a water leak from wind storm debris damage and by the time I found it, 1/3 of my 24’ floor was rotten. Insurance paid me more than I paid for the trailer. I walked away from that one. Yours doesn’t look bad and hope you are find no surprises. Good luck |
| Kingofthemountain83:
Mark your cabinets on the wall and floor before you take them out... Just trace around them... You'll cut some of the floor out but it's nice to have as a reference for install... They probably used these cheap square drive screws to mount the cabinets like the few that I've worked on... They strip out rather easy and break... So that adds a level of fun to it... The cabinets aren't made to be moved around... Had some just fall apart from removal... Probably cause they got beat being in the trailer... So get them out the way and set them on a flat surface... I've seen a couple different ways the subfloor is mounted... Screwed to wood 2x3 carriage bolted to the frame every 24" spanning the width... Or the subfloor screwed directly to the angle iron frame every 24"... Either way block your seam in between with a 2x4 and screw that off... I prefer using a torx type screws when I can... A little more expensive then phillips or square head... If you have to connect directly to the metal they have 2" self tappers with a tapered head that will hold it down just fine with one every 6"... But the torx stay on the bit, drive so easy without wobbling, don't strip out, rarely break a tip... Screw the cabinets back in where they were screwed in or as close as possible without any extras added... Unless you know you're not going to hit anything that you may regret... Found that out once too... Either way it's a trailer and they are known for this... Probably way worse then what you see... It always turned into way more because they hide the rot very well... |
| Mike450r:
--- Quote from: Humptulips on March 05, 2026, 08:40:40 PM ---I have done it. The deeper I went the more I found. In the end I made a good repair but for all the work I would have been better to have just scrapped the whole thing. I would be willing to bet the rotten floor extends under the wall, in which case it is not worth making it all right. You might be better off cutting to the edge of the cabinets and replacing just what is bad that you are standing on and forgetting about the rest. IMO it is on borrowed time. Probably not what you wanted to hear. --- End quote --- This is my recommendation as well. If the cabinets are sitting sound and the source of the water damage is fixed, just replace the floor you will be walking on with the rest is out of sight, out of mind. |
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