| Equipment & Gear > Power Equipment & RV |
| RV floor repair, have you done it |
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| Scruffy:
I had a friend who's parents were in the RV business. He told me it isn't worth trying to fix a trailer, it's a can of worms. The deeper you get the worse it gets. Especially if you have a roof leak. My kitchen floor got soft due to a leak I had. I forgot to drain an outside faucet and it froze and cracked the line. I just cut out a piece of 3/8" thick plywood and laid it down on top of the existing floor. I plan on scrapping the trailer in about two years once my cabin is finished. |
| NOCK NOCK:
--- Quote from: Mike450r on March 05, 2026, 10:58:33 PM --- --- Quote from: Humptulips on March 05, 2026, 08:40:40 PM ---I have done it. The deeper I went the more I found. In the end I made a good repair but for all the work I would have been better to have just scrapped the whole thing. I would be willing to bet the rotten floor extends under the wall, in which case it is not worth making it all right. You might be better off cutting to the edge of the cabinets and replacing just what is bad that you are standing on and forgetting about the rest. IMO it is on borrowed time. Probably not what you wanted to hear. --- End quote --- This is my recommendation as well. If the cabinets are sitting sound and the source of the water damage is fixed, just replace the floor you will be walking on with the rest is out of sight, out of mind. --- End quote --- Unfortunately the soft spots go under the cabinets, hence removal. The bath wall side is all good and solid. Damage is only about 14" out from cabinets. My main question is how are the cabinets attached to the unit? Are they screwed to the walls and floor, come out in one piece, or do ya have to disassemble the cabinet to got it out? Appears that on the stove/oven side cabinet is screwed down to floor from inside the cabs. On the sink side there is no visible way to get to the inside if it is screwed down same way. I have thought about maybe just notching along the bottom of the cabinets to allow sliding a 3x3 piece of 1/8th aluminum plate under them and back in as a patch over job. :dunno: |
| NOCK NOCK:
--- Quote from: Humptulips on March 05, 2026, 08:40:40 PM ---I have done it. The deeper I went the more I found. In the end I made a good repair but for all the work I would have been better to have just scrapped the whole thing. I would be willing to bet the rotten floor extends under the wall, in which case it is not worth making it all right. You might be better off cutting to the edge of the cabinets and replacing just what is bad that you are standing on and forgetting about the rest. IMO it is on borrowed time. Probably not what you wanted to hear. --- End quote --- Are you talking about the wall to the right (outside wall) in pic? Could be the case. Did have a roof water leak above that area 10/12 years ago, but got that repaired. Last year we had issues with rusty/stinky water in hot water tank, so that could be the source of floor damage. HW tank replacement is the other/next challenge. |
| fowl smacker:
I was going to replace a soft spot that was "only in front of the door" on one. I chased it all over. Ended up tearing the whole thing apart and made a flat bed trailer out of it. |
| CP:
If it is still structurally sound, and dried out, maybe just treat it with something like this: |
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