Post by: snocohunter on December 01, 2012, 08:53:56 AM
Been shopping CL for about a month but just can't seem to find anything that fits the bill. BECU is requiring under 125k miles and my budget is about 26 out the door with my own financing through them. Dealer maybe a tad more with the right financing.
If anyone knows of a good crew cab/quad cab truck let me know. I prefer a duramax but I'm open at this point. I've absorbed a lot of info in my searches. So I have a bit if an idea what to stay away from.
Post by: snocohunter on December 01, 2012, 07:36:36 PM
Post by: huntnphool on December 01, 2012, 08:04:56 PM
Lotsa lookers. Tough crowd! :dunno:Don't know what you want people to tell you, sounds like you are pretty much set on what you are looking for, a Duramax under 125K for less than $26k. :dunno:
Post by: snocohunter on December 01, 2012, 08:09:47 PM
How bout any sites other than CL or autotrader that anyone knows about? I'm about burnt out on em
Post by: huntnphool on December 01, 2012, 08:15:21 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 01, 2012, 08:20:07 PM
Post by: C-Money on December 01, 2012, 08:23:35 PM
Post by: elkaholic123 on December 01, 2012, 08:32:51 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 01, 2012, 08:36:07 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 01, 2012, 08:54:28 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 01, 2012, 08:55:06 PM
Post by: Rick on December 01, 2012, 09:19:29 PM
Good luck. My brother has been looking at used diesels and he can't find anything either.Same as you,mid 20s budget.
Lots of used diesels out there,people just want way too much money for the amount of miles these trucks have on them.
Post by: WDFW Hates ME!!! on December 01, 2012, 09:30:34 PM
Post by: krism83 on December 01, 2012, 09:34:48 PM
Post by: Fowlweather25 on December 01, 2012, 09:38:44 PM
Post by: westsideoutdoorsman on December 01, 2012, 09:42:59 PM
:tup:
Post by: M_ray on December 01, 2012, 09:58:45 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 01, 2012, 10:06:21 PM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right? They are higher price for a reason ... I have a guy that has worked on my 7.3 and I have 190k, he told me a just worked on the same year as mine that 750K ... I'd say if one had 125k you should jump on it!!! :twocents:the ones that get bad mileage do so because of the new emissions stuff on them. Has little at all to do with how many mikes on them. You can put a few hundred thousand miles on a diesel engine but you've still got the rest of the truck to worry about. I cant see spending $25k on a truck that has that many miles in it unless you're ok with putting money in other repairs into it. Injectors at $300-600 each plus labor add up quick.
Post by: huntnphool on December 01, 2012, 10:11:33 PM
Post by: KFhunter on December 01, 2012, 10:17:25 PM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right? They are higher price for a reason ... I have a guy that has worked on my 7.3 and I have 190k, he told me a just worked on the same year as mine that 750K ... I'd say if one had 125k you should jump on it!!! :twocents:the ones that get bad mileage do so because of the new emissions stuff on them. Has little at all to do with how many mikes on them. You can put a few hundred thousand miles on a diesel engine but you've still got the rest of the truck to worry about. I cant see spending $25k on a truck that has that many miles in it unless you're ok with putting money in other repairs into it. Injectors at $300-600 each plus labor add up quick.
I didn't pay 300 bucks for all six of my injectors :chuckle:
DDP stage 1 - I like :tup:
Post by: huntnphool on December 01, 2012, 10:25:29 PM
Ford diesel injectors are fairly cheap too. :tup:For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right? They are higher price for a reason ... I have a guy that has worked on my 7.3 and I have 190k, he told me a just worked on the same year as mine that 750K ... I'd say if one had 125k you should jump on it!!! :twocents:the ones that get bad mileage do so because of the new emissions stuff on them. Has little at all to do with how many mikes on them. You can put a few hundred thousand miles on a diesel engine but you've still got the rest of the truck to worry about. I cant see spending $25k on a truck that has that many miles in it unless you're ok with putting money in other repairs into it. Injectors at $300-600 each plus labor add up quick.
I didn't pay 300 bucks for all six of my injectors :chuckle:
DDP stage 1 - I like :tup:
Post by: fair-chase on December 01, 2012, 10:30:01 PM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right? They are higher price for a reason ... I have a guy that has worked on my 7.3 and I have 190k, he told me a just worked on the same year as mine that 750K ... I'd say if one had 125k you should jump on it!!! :twocents:the ones that get bad mileage do so because of the new emissions stuff on them. Has little at all to do with how many mikes on them. You can put a few hundred thousand miles on a diesel engine but you've still got the rest of the truck to worry about. I cant see spending $25k on a truck that has that many miles in it unless you're ok with putting money in other repairs into it. Injectors at $300-600 each plus labor add up quick.
:yeah:
While the core components (long block) of a diesel may last well past the 500k mark, nothing else attached to said motor will. And with the over inflated prices of diesel parts these days, it's much more economical to own a gas truck. Just go down to your local parts store and start comparing the cost of starters, alternators, and fuel pumps for diesels vs. their gas counterparts. Unless you are towing severe loads on a regular basis, I wouldn't recommend one. On top of that the ride off pavement usually sucks compared to a 1/2 ton gasser. I'm not bashing diesels, I loved all of mine, but they are a tool. One that I would prefer not to use unless absolutely necessary.
Post by: jackelope on December 01, 2012, 10:32:36 PM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right? They are higher price for a reason ... I have a guy that has worked on my 7.3 and I have 190k, he told me a just worked on the same year as mine that 750K ... I'd say if one had 125k you should jump on it!!! :twocents:the ones that get bad mileage do so because of the new emissions stuff on them. Has little at all to do with how many mikes on them. You can put a few hundred thousand miles on a diesel engine but you've still got the rest of the truck to worry about. I cant see spending $25k on a truck that has that many miles in it unless you're ok with putting money in other repairs into it. Injectors at $300-600 each plus labor add up quick.
I didn't pay 300 bucks for all six of my injectors :chuckle:
DDP stage 1 - I like :tup:
Theyre not dodge or chevy injectors then.
Maybe I should have specified. I have purchased injectors from DDP at wholesale price and they were $300+ each and they were OEM injectors. Bone stock in other words.
Post by: csaaphill on December 01, 2012, 10:38:57 PM
Post by: M_ray on December 01, 2012, 10:48:30 PM
Post by: bearpaw on December 01, 2012, 10:56:24 PM
I bought a 2003 7.3 Ford F350 that I am very happy with. It gets 11 to 17 mpg most of the time depending if I am towing and how fast I go. If I can get 250,000 miles out of it I figure it was a free truck considering the fuel savings over my previous 2000 chev 3500 big block gas which got 7 to 10 mpg doing the same work. In addition to better mileage, the ford can tow anything bigger and faster than the older gas truck.
If you can find a 2003 -2005 Dodge Cummins with a 5 speed manual tranny you will get even better mileage, I know guys with those who are getting 17 to 22 doing the same work my truck does at 11 to 17 mpg. The biggest problem is that guys are looking for these older trucks and they are wearing them out and looking for another one rather than buying a new fuel guzzler.
Good Luck, they don't seem to be getting any cheaper, I think my truck is worth almost what I paid for it 2 years ago. Glad I bought when I did. :twocents:
Post by: Gamehunter034 on December 02, 2012, 12:10:42 AM
Post by: RG on December 02, 2012, 06:22:35 AM
Post by: bearpaw on December 02, 2012, 06:34:38 AM
One thing, oil changes and filters are pricier on diesels, that is my one regret with the diesels.
Post by: Swatson on December 02, 2012, 06:42:28 AM
Post by: shoot-em-dead on December 02, 2012, 06:54:04 AM
Post by: Rick on December 02, 2012, 09:54:24 AM
Dodge, up to 07.5 have the 5.9 great mileage compared to the v-8's and twice the life span. Will pull anything. All full size pickups have their down falls but it's hard to beat the cummins. The ride of a Chevy is great but you lose integrity when pulling due to the "soft" suspension.
Interesting...
I never saw an honest 20mpg tank in my '07 Ram with the 5.9 CTD. My '11 Duramax with the DPF and emissions has seen several 20+ MPG (hand calculated) tanks.
Towing the same 11,000lb fifth wheel,the supposedly soft suspension on my '11 2500HD handles the fifth wheel better than the '07 Ram did.
My 26' aluminum pilothouse boat weighs over 10,000. No issues with my 2500HD pulling a bumper pull either.
Post by: BK Dave on December 02, 2012, 09:55:20 AM
I'm a chevy guy but I'm probably picking up a 2-3 year old Tundra for that same budget as you. 4 doors with a 6 ft bed 381 ponies is plenty for my needs
Post by: Rick on December 02, 2012, 10:01:30 AM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right?
Where do you guys come up with this stuff? :chuckle:
Post by: Swatson on December 02, 2012, 10:05:46 AM
Post by: PolarBear on December 02, 2012, 10:11:28 AM
Post by: bearpaw on December 02, 2012, 10:19:03 AM
My 97 7.3 Powerstroke still gets 21mpg on the highway. Even towing 7 tons of hay over the pass I have never gotten under 18 mpg. Something to think about.
Have you done anything to help your truck get this good of mileage?
My truck computer (powerstroke 7.3) says I get nearly 20, but when I do the math most of the time I am actually between 11 to 17 mpg depending on the load I am pulling.
Post by: PolarBear on December 02, 2012, 10:23:50 AM
Post by: cohoho on December 02, 2012, 10:24:00 AM
Post by: logger on December 02, 2012, 10:25:13 AM
Post by: huntnphool on December 02, 2012, 10:31:11 AM
Ford's 7.3 is a sweet motor but stay away from the 1999-2005 years as their trannys are junk! Had an 01 and loved it but the Trannys suck! Dodge 5.9 are tough to beat. My 06 6 speed has 85,000 miles now and when I'm not towing I'm getting between 20-22 mpg. Tows like a champ too. :twocents:Ive got two, a '00 7.3 Excursion and a '02 7.3 F-350, I've put over 300k on my Excursion, towing a boat and taking off road for air of those miles, not a single tranny issue on either rig.
Post by: bearpaw on December 02, 2012, 10:33:06 AM
I have 5 diesels from 2000-2011 and hands down my dodge 06 is by far the best performer, the dodge has wweak front ends but my fords are far from sturdy in the front end also. my 2011 ford is by far the biggest dissapointment I have had in a pickup. 11-12 mpg on the freeway down hill in a hurricane with the wind in my favor!
I have heard that many times about the new fords. :yike:
Nope, it is as stock as it gets. It has been an awesome rig. With just under 180,000 on it all I have had to do is replace the water pump (last week) and an alternator. I did go ahead and do some preventative maintenance and have the whole drive train and steering serviced. It runs like a champ. I would like to upgrade to a K&M type air system and bigger exhaust but I'm not in a big hurry.
I am certainly not as lucky as you. Without towing anything I average about 16 or 17. Best I ever got when I ran the truck at about 50-55 without any fast or slow driving to speak of was about 19 mpg. I've thought about changing filters and exhaust too, I wonder what the average mileage gain is?
Post by: huntnphool on December 02, 2012, 10:39:03 AM
i get better than 20 on the highway as well Dale but I also ordered mine with a 373 limited slip rear end, I think the 411 gear rear end was standard with the 7.3, giving you better performance off the line and towing but a little less mileage.I have 5 diesels from 2000-2011 and hands down my dodge 06 is by far the best performer, the dodge has wweak front ends but my fords are far from sturdy in the front end also. my 2011 ford is by far the biggest dissapointment I have had in a pickup. 11-12 mpg on the freeway down hill in a hurricane with the wind in my favor!
I have heard that many times about the new fords. :yike:Nope, it is as stock as it gets. It has been an awesome rig. With just under 180,000 on it all I have had to do is replace the water pump (last week) and an alternator. I did go ahead and do some preventative maintenance and have the whole drive train and steering serviced. It runs like a champ. I would like to upgrade to a K&M type air system and bigger exhaust but I'm not in a big hurry.
I am certainly not as lucky as you. Without towing anything I average about 16 or 17. Best I ever got when I ran the truck at about 50-55 without any fast or slow driving to speak of was about 19 mpg. I've thought about changing filters and exhaust too, I wonder what the average mileage gain is?
Post by: logger on December 02, 2012, 10:39:34 AM
Post by: fair-chase on December 02, 2012, 10:43:35 AM
My 97 7.3 Powerstroke still gets 21mpg on the highway. Even towing 7 tons of hay over the pass I have never gotten under 18 mpg. Something to think about.
Have you done anything to help your truck get this good of mileage?
My truck computer (powerstroke 7.3) says I get nearly 20, but when I do the math most of the time I am actually between 11 to 17 mpg depending on the load I am pulling.
I got similar results out of my '96 Powerstroke. Average 20-22mpg highway with 6" lift and 35" tires. I think that the mid to low 20's mpg highway is fairly typical. Mileage seems to drop dramatically with the newer ('98 on up) body style.
Post by: bearpaw on December 02, 2012, 11:05:43 AM
i get better than 20 on the highway as well Dale but I also ordered mine with a 373 limited slip rear end, I think the 411 gear rear end was standard with the 7.3, giving you better performance off the line and towing but a little less mileage.I have 5 diesels from 2000-2011 and hands down my dodge 06 is by far the best performer, the dodge has wweak front ends but my fords are far from sturdy in the front end also. my 2011 ford is by far the biggest dissapointment I have had in a pickup. 11-12 mpg on the freeway down hill in a hurricane with the wind in my favor!
I have heard that many times about the new fords. :yike:Nope, it is as stock as it gets. It has been an awesome rig. With just under 180,000 on it all I have had to do is replace the water pump (last week) and an alternator. I did go ahead and do some preventative maintenance and have the whole drive train and steering serviced. It runs like a champ. I would like to upgrade to a K&M type air system and bigger exhaust but I'm not in a big hurry.
I am certainly not as lucky as you. Without towing anything I average about 16 or 17. Best I ever got when I ran the truck at about 50-55 without any fast or slow driving to speak of was about 19 mpg. I've thought about changing filters and exhaust too, I wonder what the average mileage gain is?
OK thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I have good bottom end and towing power, but it's no speed demon on the hwy, bet I have the lower geared differentials. :(
Post by: jackelope on December 02, 2012, 12:09:07 PM
I agree re: towing, Rick.Dodge, up to 07.5 have the 5.9 great mileage compared to the v-8's and twice the life span. Will pull anything. All full size pickups have their down falls but it's hard to beat the cummins. The ride of a Chevy is great but you lose integrity when pulling due to the "soft" suspension.
Interesting...
I never saw an honest 20mpg tank in my '07 Ram with the 5.9 CTD. My '11 Duramax with the DPF and emissions has seen several 20+ MPG (hand calculated) tanks.
Towing the same 11,000lb fifth wheel,the supposedly soft suspension on my '11 2500HD handles the fifth wheel better than the '07 Ram did.
My 26' aluminum pilothouse boat weighs over 10,000. No issues with my 2500HD pulling a bumper pull either.
As far as mpg's out of the Cummins, I've had lots of people report to me 20+mpg out of them pre-6.7l.
Post by: Skyvalhunter on December 02, 2012, 12:13:23 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 02, 2012, 01:29:47 PM
I honestly started looking at 1/2 ton gas trucks because they will probably tow 90% of anything I'd ever need it to. BUT, nearly all of my friends who haul snowmobiles and travel trailers and bigger boats with their half ton trucks say they wish they'd bought a diesel in the first place. Is a diesel more than I need right now? probably. But I want a truck that will last me a long time and/or retain some of its value. I've considered the repair costs for parts and I'm okay with that. I'll most likely pickup a daily driver soon too just to keep from racking up the miles on a truck. If I can average 15-17mpg ill be happy.
I've found an 03 and an 04 dodge both with the 6 speed which I'm leaning towards. I got spoiled driving an 07 duramax for a couple months this summer while my buddy was outta town and was house sitting for him. It was a nice ride and of course I loved the torque and horsepower.
Post by: westsideoutdoorsman on December 02, 2012, 01:47:07 PM
Ford Chevy Toyota(the big 3)
Lol. Got 2 of the big 3 there.
Post by: BK Dave on December 02, 2012, 02:27:22 PM
lol. Somebody caught thatFord Chevy Toyota(the big 3)
Lol. Got 2 of the big 3 there.
Here's my 2 cents when it comes to "half tons"
#1 Tundra (Made in America)
#2 chevy
#3 ford
#4 Nissan
#5 bucket of crap
Other stuff
Other stuff
#13 Mopar
Post by: Rick on December 02, 2012, 02:35:11 PM
Even towing 7 tons of hay over the pass I have never gotten under 18 mpg.
If thats the case,you need a new calculator. :lol4:
Post by: RG on December 02, 2012, 03:10:57 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 02, 2012, 03:20:42 PM
:yeah: spoken from a mechanic
Not a mechanic.
Post by: jackelope on December 02, 2012, 03:23:28 PM
Post by: brianmtsinc on December 02, 2012, 03:31:36 PM
My sons 2000 Dodge 2500 with manual trans gets around 17 - 23 mpg's with the stock tires and wheels on it. With the 33's on there now, he is getting between 15-18. It has the Edge chip in it which added 2-3 mpg's. Next to my brand new 2012 3500, it is the best truck I have ever owned. :tup:
Post by: snocohunter on December 02, 2012, 03:46:06 PM
Post by: huntnphool on December 02, 2012, 07:01:43 PM
i run about 1750 rpm's at 60mph Dale, my buddy with the 411 runs closer to 2000rpm's at 60, might give you a idea of your gears.i get better than 20 on the highway as well Dale but I also ordered mine with a 373 limited slip rear end, I think the 411 gear rear end was standard with the 7.3, giving you better performance off the line and towing but a little less mileage.I have 5 diesels from 2000-2011 and hands down my dodge 06 is by far the best performer, the dodge has wweak front ends but my fords are far from sturdy in the front end also. my 2011 ford is by far the biggest dissapointment I have had in a pickup. 11-12 mpg on the freeway down hill in a hurricane with the wind in my favor!
I have heard that many times about the new fords. :yike:Nope, it is as stock as it gets. It has been an awesome rig. With just under 180,000 on it all I have had to do is replace the water pump (last week) and an alternator. I did go ahead and do some preventative maintenance and have the whole drive train and steering serviced. It runs like a champ. I would like to upgrade to a K&M type air system and bigger exhaust but I'm not in a big hurry.
I am certainly not as lucky as you. Without towing anything I average about 16 or 17. Best I ever got when I ran the truck at about 50-55 without any fast or slow driving to speak of was about 19 mpg. I've thought about changing filters and exhaust too, I wonder what the average mileage gain is?
OK thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I have good bottom end and towing power, but it's no speed demon on the hwy, bet I have the lower geared differentials. :(
Post by: jburkett on December 02, 2012, 07:44:30 PM
Dodges have weak front ends.compared to what? I have owned several dodges and have never had any trouble with the front ends, it's a Dana 60 front in the 3/4 tons, that has been a proven work horse since the 60's and its miles stronger then the I.f.s garbage that some of the other brands come with.
Post by: jackelope on December 02, 2012, 07:54:59 PM
zDodges have weak front ends.compared to what? I have owned several dodges and have never had any trouble with the front ends, it's a Dana 60 front in the 3/4 tons, that has been a proven work horse since the 60's and its miles stronger then the I.f.s garbage that some of the other brands come with.
Ball joints, axle ujoints, steering components. If you own a 2500/3500 10 years old or newer, you will replace them at some point...I will almost guarantee it. We did BJ's in a '10 the other week. Not a good sign.
I wasn't talking about the differential.
Post by: PolarBear on December 02, 2012, 08:02:41 PM
So, in summary, now that we've all agreed.... just go buy the 06 Dodge cummins and solve all of your problems.Not even if it was free!
Post by: JLS on December 02, 2012, 08:03:02 PM
When I replaced the 99 last year I was going to buy a gasser. I ended up with the diesel because it was right place, right time and right price. I paid cash with the insurance payout.
The only hangup I had with the gas half tons was that I was looking for a long box truck. If you are looking half ton there are lots of trucks out there with 60-80k miles on them.
As for Dodge front ends, they aren't outstanding, but I haven't had any significant issues with either of mine. Track bars tend to wear out. I haven't had any ball joint issues.
Post by: bearhunter99 on December 02, 2012, 08:16:53 PM
Post by: RG on December 02, 2012, 09:23:32 PM
So, in summary, now that we've all agreed.... just go buy the 06 Dodge cummins and solve all of your problems.Not even if it was free!
Ha!
Post by: snocohunter on December 02, 2012, 09:42:04 PM
Dodge is winning the vote at this point. 5.9 with a manual 6 sp. I think. 03-05 model year.
Post by: Rick on December 03, 2012, 08:24:05 AM
Dodge is winning the vote at this point. 5.9 with a manual 6 sp. I think. 03-05 model year.
That transmission would be the NV5600. New Venture is out of business so finding parts for it can be difficult and they're expensive to rebuild.
Post by: Rick on December 03, 2012, 08:27:38 AM
Dodges have weak front ends.compared to what? I have owned several dodges and have never had any trouble with the front ends, it's a Dana 60 front in the 3/4 tons, that has been a proven work horse since the 60's and its miles stronger then the I.f.s garbage that some of the other brands come with.
There hasn't been a D60 in a Dodge in a decade. Everything since '02 has been an AAM 9.25"
Post by: brianmtsinc on December 03, 2012, 08:36:59 AM
I'll keep it in mind Brian but right now I don't have financing for anything over 125k miles.
I understand. That is exactly why he wants to sell it himself because the dealer wont give him anymore than 8500 for trade because he said it cannot be financed with over 125K miles, so they would have to send it to auction :dunno: I have seen several trucks just like his, but not near as nice, selling for 14K .... so if he ends up around 10,500 or so, I think he would take it :dunno: If my knees could handle driving the clutch, I would buy it back in a second :bash:
Post by: Rick on December 03, 2012, 08:37:10 AM
Ball joints, axle ujoints, steering components. If you own a 2500/3500 10 years old or newer, you will replace them at some point...I will almost guarantee it. We did BJ's in a '10 the other week. Not a good sign.
I wasn't talking about the differential.
Thats the biggest reason I didn't want another Dodge when I sold my '07.
After you helped me get the U-joints on mine replaced when it was just out of warranty I was happy. Then the tech came out and told me the ball joints were "just barely in spec" at less than 36K miles I wasn't so happy anymore.
10 years of garbage front ends and Dodge still can't get it right.
Post by: C-Money on December 03, 2012, 08:51:19 AM
I must add, that Firefighter4607s family uses Dodge trucks on their ranch, and they seem to have had pretty good luck with them.
Post by: HardCorpsHuntr on December 03, 2012, 08:53:37 AM
Post by: et1702 on December 03, 2012, 08:55:05 AM
ET
Post by: Skillet on December 03, 2012, 09:14:33 AM
Whatever you do, stay away form the Ford with the 6.0L, worst engine ever built in my opinion. Almost all will need a FICM ($1,500-2,000) within 150K, the obvious stud bolt issue, they also have a bad design with the "y" pipe connection (Ford says that it is a perfect gasketless fit but they also make an aftermarket gasket kit for when it starts leaking exhaust into the cab) and the gas mileage is horrible. The two trucks I had previous to this truck (99 Ford 7.3L with 6 speed manual, never ever ever should have sold that truck and an 07 Dodge with the 5.9L that I had to sell when I got laid off for 8 months) were sooo much better trucks. Another thing to think about right now is how many miles you are going to put on it a year, gas is $0.60 a gallon cheaper than diesel at most gas stations. Good luck with your search!
I have not had the same experience with my '06 Ford 6.0 diesel. FICM's are problems, yes - but if yours goes bad a Bullet Proof diesel FICM for $500 gets the job done, it's a plug and play easy install. Pretty much every 6.0 had the HPOP fittings replaced under warranty (as did mine). EGR valves are a maintenance item on this truck - but it just requires a cleaning every so often. Couple-hour job. Head studs are only required if you plan on running a hot tuner - for stock power levels the stockers are just fine. That leaves two things that can be expensive if you let them go bad - the oil cooler and EGR cooler. Not a great stock design on those. BP Diesel has a great air-to-air oil cooler unit and a great EGR cooler they sell in a package for about $2200. http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/product_p/fully%20bullet%20proof%20kit%206.0l.htm (http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/product_p/fully%20bullet%20proof%20kit%206.0l.htm) Never have to worry about it again. I just about guarantee you that if you buy an '06 or '07 Ford with a 6.0 the price on that truck is going to be so low due to the bad rap 6.0's get you will have plenty of cash left over to do the upgrades.
I really like my Ford with the 6.0 - far and away the best truck out there for the money right now and if you do the simple fixes on the 6.0, you can easily get ahead of the game. 14.5 MPG in town, 19-21 on the freeway (if I don't push it too hard - I have 4.11's in my axles).
My :twocents:
Post by: Dhoey07 on December 03, 2012, 09:26:03 AM
Post by: huntnphool on December 03, 2012, 09:40:59 AM
Kinda funny, I also had a wrx before my duramax.Pretty quick little cars, too bad they are shaped like refrigerators.
Post by: WaltAlpine on December 03, 2012, 09:57:39 AM
Post by: et1702 on December 03, 2012, 03:25:18 PM
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=102853138&listingRecNum=5&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26drvTrnId%3D27105%26mkId%3D20012%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21802%26rd%3D100000%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-drvTrnId-transTypeId%26zc%3D98019%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20144%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1 (http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=102853138&listingRecNum=5&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26drvTrnId%3D27105%26mkId%3D20012%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21802%26rd%3D100000%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-drvTrnId-transTypeId%26zc%3D98019%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20144%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1)
If my truck was dying, here's my next truck. Already has 5th wheel rails in bed and only 38,000mi on an 06 Dodge.
ET
Post by: hollymaster on December 03, 2012, 04:14:19 PM
Post by: jburkett on December 03, 2012, 05:45:15 PM
My 05 has just shy of 100k on it and I haven't had any of these issues. My brother, and three of my hunting buddies also drive dodges of the same generation and they haven't had these problems either. Maybe we just got the five good ones.?zDodges have weak front ends.compared to what? I have owned several dodges and have never had any trouble with the front ends, it's a Dana 60 front in the 3/4 tons, that has been a proven work horse since the 60's and its miles stronger then the I.f.s garbage that some of the other brands come with.
Ball joints, axle ujoints, steering components. If you own a 2500/3500 10 years old or newer, you will replace them at some point...I will almost guarantee it. We did BJ's in a '10 the other week. Not a good sign.
I wasn't talking about the differential.
Post by: jackelope on December 03, 2012, 06:02:51 PM
Post by: predatorpro on December 03, 2012, 06:25:18 PM
Post by: Jason on December 03, 2012, 06:30:34 PM
I work for Dodge. I know the problems they have. Look around on the web if you think I'm bonkers. They are known issues with those trucks. I'm not putting them down or smack talking. There are 4-5 guys who are members of this forum that have had ball joints and/or front axle universal joints replaced by my guys. A couple of them have posted in this thread. I'm not making stuff up, I am surrounded by these trucks 55 hours a week give or take a few. Yes you may have got lucky but I bet if you brought the 5 good ones here I'd find some ball joints that are loose. Just a hunch.My work truck is an 07 mega cab 4x4 2500 5.9 158,000 miles and had all the ball joints replaced 2 years ago, just had the shocks done two weeks ago.
Post by: colockumelk on December 03, 2012, 06:33:40 PM
2007.5 and after have DPF so the mileage is not as good either,2005-2007 would be good yrs to look at in the GMC or Chevy
Sweet I have a 2005 GMC. I absolutely love it.
Post by: jburkett on December 03, 2012, 09:19:05 PM
I work for Dodge. I know the problems they have. Look around on the web if you think I'm bonkers. They are known issues with those trucks. I'm not putting them down or smack talking. There are 4-5 guys who are members of this forum that have had ball joints and/or front axle universal joints replaced by my guys. A couple of them have posted in this thread. I'm not making stuff up, I am surrounded by these trucks 55 hours a week give or take a few. Yes you may have got lucky but I bet if you brought the 5 good ones here I'd find some ball joints that are loose. Just a hunch.I'm not questioning your sanity, I have just never expirianced these issues with any of my trucks.
Post by: jackelope on December 03, 2012, 09:32:31 PM
now correct me if im wrong jackelope, but on some dodge diesels like my 03 ball joints dont need to be replaced until 15 degrees of play...to the normal person that would be alot of play for a ball joint, mine have play in them and i got 20,000 on my tires and they still look brand new, but im just saying this cuz the computer told me this when i worked at schwabs lol according to their parts and notes on their system and they probly got it from dodge, i know there was a lot of dodges that would come in and kids would tell them they need new ball joints and i would have to be like no....not until they move 15 degrees while in the air...i have heard the same thing from other dodge fanatics about thisfor lowers...with a dial indicator, truck off the ground....
2. Attach a dial indicator (2) with the indicator resting on the flat part of the steering knuckle (1) by the lower ball stud. 3. Set the dial indicator (2) to zero.
4. Pry between the knuckle (4) and the axle tube yoke next to the upper ball joint (2), Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the first reading.
5. Set the dial indicator (2) back to zero. 6. Set up a jackstand (3) and use a long prybar (1) to lift the knuckle assembly
Post by: jackelope on December 03, 2012, 09:35:16 PM
Uppers....
2. Attach a dial indicator (3) with the indicator resting on either the front or back sides of the steering knuckle (4) as close to the upper ball joint (1) as possible. 3. Set the dial indicator(3) to zero. 4. Grab the tire by pushing in on the top of the tire and pulling out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the first reading. 5. Set the dial indicator (3) back to zero. 6. Grab the tire by pulling in on the top of the tire and pushing out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the second reading. 7. Add the two reading together for a total upper ball joint movement, If this reading is above 1.52 mm (0.060 inch) then replacement of the upper ball joint is necessary.
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 03, 2012, 10:35:59 PM
7. Pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle (5) next to the ball joint stud and nut (2) using the jackstand as leverage. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the second reading. 8. Add the two reading together for a total lower ball joint movement, If this reading is above 2.29 mm (0.090 inch) then replacement of the lower ball joint is necessary.:yeah:
Uppers....
2. Attach a dial indicator (3) with the indicator resting on either the front or back sides of the steering knuckle (4) as close to the upper ball joint (1) as possible. 3. Set the dial indicator(3) to zero. 4. Grab the tire by pushing in on the top of the tire and pulling out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the first reading. 5. Set the dial indicator (3) back to zero. 6. Grab the tire by pulling in on the top of the tire and pushing out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the second reading. 7. Add the two reading together for a total upper ball joint movement, If this reading is above 1.52 mm (0.060 inch) then replacement of the upper ball joint is necessary.
My '05 3500 is on set #3 of ball joints. 118k. Hopefully this set will last something more than 30k. I switched over to XRF joints.
4 axle shaft joints, an 07.5 steering upgrade and I might get to see 150k without pouring any more $ into the front end.
My '07 2500 isn't a whole lot better. 68k and it is ball joint set #2. Had the 07.5 steering upgrade and axle shaft joints done at 40k.
It's only money.....
For fuel economy, it's the 03 and '04 555 5.9's
Of the 610's, the '05 gets the best fuel economy of '05 to '07's.
In 2006, the head porting is slightly opened up over the 2006. This was done due to to the 3rd injection event that is done for emission purposes which caused the 2005's to have an elevated egt.
2007 the fuel economy got worse, slightly.
Get an EFI Live programming license. Download the stock injection event cycling in a 2006 and 2007. You will see that the ECM is programmed to actually de-fuel during acceleration. Odd, yes!!! With an EFI Live custom tune, this de-fuel can be eliminated. You gain hp and tq in the power band when we would like to have it. You also gain mpg because you are not using as much go on the skinny pedal. My '07 went from a 16.5 mpg stock to 19.2 mpg just by cleaning up the de-fueling. This is with 35-12.50x18 Toyo MT's too. Too bad it's an auto.
My '05, after throwing a pair of turbos, injectors and cam shaft in it went from 17 to almost 21 mpg. I'll never re-coup the parts cost, but what the heck, an 800hp tow rig is kind fun. :chuckle:
Post by: snocohunter on December 03, 2012, 10:42:25 PM
Dealer in Burlington has an 03 with 60k manual trans they are asking $27k. He said that's what they are worth supply and demand.
Post by: JLS on December 03, 2012, 10:43:48 PM
My 04 has 210k miles (almost all freeway). Since I bought it at 200k miles I've replaced the shocks, stabilizer bushings, and the rear u joint.
Post by: Jim Sr. on December 03, 2012, 10:52:54 PM
In June of this year I bought a 2008 F350 XLT 4x4, CC, LB, 6.4 PSD, auto, manual hubs, new 35" tires on new 20" wheels for $25K. Don't get caught up in a deal unless all the boxs are checked off of your wish list, stick to it & don't settle for less, you will regret it in the long run.
Good luck
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 03, 2012, 10:57:16 PM
I wish that 06 dodge was in my price range. I could swing it but trying to be responsible and have money to buy parts 8)The dealer is pretty close to correct given the manual trans and mileage.
Dealer in Burlington has an 03 with 60k manual trans they are asking $27k. He said that's what they are worth supply and demand.
Depending on how the truck is equipped, that truck new was probably only 2-5k more then it's current asking price.
I paid $33k for my '05 dually SLT 4x4 new from Karmart. I picked the right day. They were having a slow sales week. :chuckle:
Post by: snocohunter on December 03, 2012, 10:58:08 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 03, 2012, 11:02:46 PM
I wish that 06 dodge was in my price range. I could swing it but trying to be responsible and have money to buy parts 8)The dealer is pretty close to correct given the manual trans and mileage.
Dealer in Burlington has an 03 with 60k manual trans they are asking $27k. He said that's what they are worth supply and demand.
Depending on how the truck is equipped, that truck new was probably only 2-5k more then it's current asking price.
I paid $33k for my '05 dually SLT 4x4 new from Karmart. I picked the right day. They were having a slow sales week. :chuckle:
Here is the truck
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=98290&endYear=2010&fuelCodes=DSL&driveCodes=4WD%7CAWD&transmissionCode=MAN&sellerTypes=b&transmissionCodes=MAN&maxPrice=30000&mmt=%5BDODGE%5BRAM3502WD%5B%5DRAM25002WD%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=RAM3502WD&sortBy=distanceASC&driveCode=4WD%7CAWD&makeCode2=DODGE&modelCode2=RAM25002WD&showcaseOwnerId=100015786&startYear=2003&makeCode1=DODGE&searchRadius=300&minPrice=15000&listingId=334901783&listingIndex=10&Log=0 (http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=98290&endYear=2010&fuelCodes=DSL&driveCodes=4WD%7CAWD&transmissionCode=MAN&sellerTypes=b&transmissionCodes=MAN&maxPrice=30000&mmt=%5BDODGE%5BRAM3502WD%5B%5DRAM25002WD%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=RAM3502WD&sortBy=distanceASC&driveCode=4WD%7CAWD&makeCode2=DODGE&modelCode2=RAM25002WD&showcaseOwnerId=100015786&startYear=2003&makeCode1=DODGE&searchRadius=300&minPrice=15000&listingId=334901783&listingIndex=10&Log=0)
Pretty basic but the miles I like.
Post by: Jim Sr. on December 03, 2012, 11:15:29 PM
Thanks Jim. I have been very patient thus far. Problem with the newer trucks is the emissions crap. Wasn't 2008 first year of the 6.4after the awful 6.0? Sucks that so many guys had to figure them out for ford. My buddy worked the kinks out of his 6.0 ford and that truck flat out gets it done. But it cost him.
Yes it is but the power is killer!!! The 6.0 guys were havin problems with head gaskets & studs , intercooler leaks, EGR's because of the tuners & runnin way too much HP than they were designed for from what my mechanic buds told me.
I was looking at the Dodges but the back seats had no room, the Fords hands down have way more room for the 2 labs & huntin stuff.
Nice Dodge w/low miles
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 03, 2012, 11:18:26 PM
Post by: Fowlweather25 on December 04, 2012, 07:59:38 AM
Dodge, up to 07.5 have the 5.9 great mileage compared to the v-8's and twice the life span. Will pull anything. All full size pickups have their down falls but it's hard to beat the cummins. The ride of a Chevy is great but you lose integrity when pulling due to the "soft" suspension.
Interesting...
I never saw an honest 20mpg tank in my '07 Ram with the 5.9 CTD. My '11 Duramax with the DPF and emissions has seen several 20+ MPG (hand calculated) tanks.
Towing the same 11,000lb fifth wheel,the supposedly soft suspension on my '11 2500HD handles the fifth wheel better than the '07 Ram did.
My 26' aluminum pilothouse boat weighs over 10,000. No issues with my 2500HD pulling a bumper pull either.
Hmmmm, never heard of anyone getting 20 plus in a pickup with a DPF, but ok.
I drive a 2002 5.9 and get 20 consistently when I'm empty. You do know what a DPF does don't you?
Post by: Rick on December 04, 2012, 10:41:36 AM
Dodge, up to 07.5 have the 5.9 great mileage compared to the v-8's and twice the life span. Will pull anything. All full size pickups have their down falls but it's hard to beat the cummins. The ride of a Chevy is great but you lose integrity when pulling due to the "soft" suspension.
Interesting...
I never saw an honest 20mpg tank in my '07 Ram with the 5.9 CTD. My '11 Duramax with the DPF and emissions has seen several 20+ MPG (hand calculated) tanks.
Towing the same 11,000lb fifth wheel,the supposedly soft suspension on my '11 2500HD handles the fifth wheel better than the '07 Ram did.
My 26' aluminum pilothouse boat weighs over 10,000. No issues with my 2500HD pulling a bumper pull either.
Hmmmm, never heard of anyone getting 20 plus in a pickup with a DPF, but ok.
I drive a 2002 5.9 and get 20 consistently when I'm empty. You do know what a DPF does don't you?
There are a lot of guys running the Ford 6.7 and the LML Duramax that are seeing 20+ mpg now that both trucks are using urea. I'm sure once Dodge starts using urea they'll see an increase as well.
Urea has increased fuel mileage by 20+%
Post by: Dhoey07 on December 04, 2012, 01:31:43 PM
Dodge, up to 07.5 have the 5.9 great mileage compared to the v-8's and twice the life span. Will pull anything. All full size pickups have their down falls but it's hard to beat the cummins. The ride of a Chevy is great but you lose integrity when pulling due to the "soft" suspension.
Interesting...
I never saw an honest 20mpg tank in my '07 Ram with the 5.9 CTD. My '11 Duramax with the DPF and emissions has seen several 20+ MPG (hand calculated) tanks.
Towing the same 11,000lb fifth wheel,the supposedly soft suspension on my '11 2500HD handles the fifth wheel better than the '07 Ram did.
My 26' aluminum pilothouse boat weighs over 10,000. No issues with my 2500HD pulling a bumper pull either.
Hmmmm, never heard of anyone getting 20 plus in a pickup with a DPF, but ok.
I drive a 2002 5.9 and get 20 consistently when I'm empty. You do know what a DPF does don't you?
There are a lot of guys running the Ford 6.7 and the LML Duramax that are seeing 20+ mpg now that both trucks are using urea. I'm sure once Dodge starts using urea they'll see an increase as well.
Urea has increased fuel mileage by 20+%
I find that the 20% really, really, really hard to believe.
Post by: jackelope on December 04, 2012, 01:39:08 PM
Post by: Rick on December 04, 2012, 01:48:01 PM
I find that the 20% really, really, really hard to believe.
You're correct. I got to typing too fast. Its 10+%
IIRC GM says 11%. Ford is similar.
Post by: Mudman on December 04, 2012, 01:54:33 PM
Post by: gutsnthegrass on December 04, 2012, 03:06:46 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 04, 2012, 03:45:46 PM
Im curious what these new deisels will get if you still cut off all the emission crap? Its great they are improving but all this is jusy more stuff to maintain and fix. It seems these new trucks are in the shop with codes all the time no matter the make. KISS keep it simple stupid is what I believe. :twocents:There was a bunch of problems with DPF equipped Dodge trucks at first(07-08) but those were resolved finally with a fix a couple years ago. DEF should apparently need to he topped off at oil change intervals. Other than that no other maintenance.
Post by: Special T on December 04, 2012, 03:53:29 PM
Post by: JLS on December 04, 2012, 03:55:00 PM
I have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
Post by: jackelope on December 04, 2012, 03:59:24 PM
Post by: Special T on December 04, 2012, 04:32:58 PM
Post by: mathewsbow4elk on December 06, 2012, 02:00:08 AM
Post by: RG on December 06, 2012, 04:42:52 AM
Post by: netcoyote on December 06, 2012, 05:42:04 AM
An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.
:yike: :yike: :yike:
That has got to be the worst vehicle design in automotive history! That looks like a design by a committee with a consensus vote. Certainly no mechanics on the committee...
Post by: huntnphool on December 06, 2012, 01:27:05 PM
An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
Post by: Caseyd on December 06, 2012, 01:38:45 PM
An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
He did say newer fords :dunno:
Post by: huntnphool on December 06, 2012, 01:43:30 PM
And if you read through the thread you will see that he can only spend $26K, pretty much leaves "newer Fords" out of the conversation.An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
He did say newer fords :dunno:
Post by: toothfangclaw on December 06, 2012, 01:55:00 PM
Edit : just realized he is financing it.
Post by: RG on December 06, 2012, 03:04:15 PM
An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
Well, go to your local Ford dealership and check with the service department. I stood there and watched what they were doing while they explained it to me. I don't need to make this stuff up, just passing on what the guys who do it told me. It was probably a 2010 or 2011 truck or somewhere near that age.
Post by: Mudman on December 06, 2012, 04:04:12 PM
Post by: Fowlweather25 on December 06, 2012, 09:30:02 PM
Post by: Yak-NDN on December 07, 2012, 07:25:23 AM
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 07, 2012, 09:13:47 AM
Cab removal is on the 6.0 to replace head studs. Jeeze you guys need to do more research. This cracks me up.:chuckle:
I was wondering when someone was going to correct that cab removal statement.
Post by: muleyman on December 07, 2012, 06:52:28 PM
Post by: RG on December 07, 2012, 07:08:00 PM
An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
Ha! I told you I don't make this stuff up...
Post by: predatorpro on December 07, 2012, 07:11:45 PM
in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
Post by: huntnphool on December 07, 2012, 07:18:57 PM
Maybe it's faster for the dealer to do it that way but I can assure you it's not necessary on the 7.3.Ha! I told you I don't make this stuff up...An issue that will eventually be a problem on the newer Ford powerstrokes is that the cab has to be removed from the frame to get to the top, or at least the top rear of the engine. Not many guys have a high ceiling and hoist in their shop and it has to add a big $ to the bill when it comes to having it done at a garage. I heard that from a mechanic at the Snohomish County mainenance shop then saw it in person at Bickford Ford in Snohomish. Hopefully they have to have a lot of miles on them before that becomes necessary but, wow. I like Fords but I can work on my Dodge in my driveway.LMAO!!! :chuckle: I don't know where you guys come up with some of this stuff but it sure is entertaining. :chuckle:
I have had my entire 7.3L out and I can assure you the cab did not need to be removed.................thats pretty funny though. :chuckle:
Post by: JohnVH on December 07, 2012, 08:06:17 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 07, 2012, 08:47:05 PM
Never heard of this fail safe feature you're talking about. I'm almost positive there is no such thing. There is a SKIM module that will cause the truck to start/stall quickly if the truck is equipped with SKIM but its got nothing to Do with wether the lift pump works or not. It is an anti-theft function.in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
Post by: JohnVH on December 07, 2012, 08:51:28 PM
Post by: predatorpro on December 07, 2012, 09:04:47 PM
Never heard of this fail safe feature you're talking about. I'm almost positive there is no such thing. There is a SKIM module that will cause the truck to start/stall quickly if the truck is equipped with SKIM but its got nothing to Do with wether the lift pump works or not. It is an anti-theft function.in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
well MY 03 dodge diesel did it and its bone stock and according to every other dodge nut told me yep they wont do anything when the lift pump fails...no power to anything...maybe i was just imagining it tho when i was stuck on the side of the road...turned the key three times and the on board diagnostic system that is stock on it threw a code on my dashboard for a lift pump, replaced truck started right up and havent had a problem since
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 07, 2012, 09:19:00 PM
Actually, it was the FCA (fuel control actuator) which is a solenoid controlled part on your CP3 (injection pump) which is on the low pressure side of the pump that threw the code to the ECM.Never heard of this fail safe feature you're talking about. I'm almost positive there is no such thing. There is a SKIM module that will cause the truck to start/stall quickly if the truck is equipped with SKIM but its got nothing to Do with wether the lift pump works or not. It is an anti-theft function.in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
well MY 03 dodge diesel did it and its bone stock and according to every other dodge nut told me yep they wont do anything when the lift pump fails...no power to anything...maybe i was just imagining it tho when i was stuck on the side of the road...turned the key three times and the on board diagnostic system that is stock on it threw a code on my dashboard for a lift pump, replaced truck started right up and havent had a problem since
Your lift pump was dying a slow death and you never knew it. Get a fuel pressure gauge installed so you know when it's happening again, and it will happen again, so you don't get stuck on the side of the road. :twocents:
Post by: predatorpro on December 07, 2012, 09:37:01 PM
im just telling yall what my truck did when the lift pump went out, every part in a truck is dying a slow death from the first time you drive it off the lot...Actually, it was the FCA (fuel control actuator) which is a solenoid controlled part on your CP3 (injection pump) which is on the low pressure side of the pump that threw the code to the ECM.Never heard of this fail safe feature you're talking about. I'm almost positive there is no such thing. There is a SKIM module that will cause the truck to start/stall quickly if the truck is equipped with SKIM but its got nothing to Do with wether the lift pump works or not. It is an anti-theft function.in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
well MY 03 dodge diesel did it and its bone stock and according to every other dodge nut told me yep they wont do anything when the lift pump fails...no power to anything...maybe i was just imagining it tho when i was stuck on the side of the road...turned the key three times and the on board diagnostic system that is stock on it threw a code on my dashboard for a lift pump, replaced truck started right up and havent had a problem since
Your lift pump was dying a slow death and you never knew it. Get a fuel pressure gauge installed so you know when it's happening again, and it will happen again, so you don't get stuck on the side of the road. :twocents:
Post by: 6x6in6 on December 07, 2012, 09:42:42 PM
I know what you are telling us.im just telling yall what my truck did when the lift pump went out, every part in a truck is dying a slow death from the first time you drive it off the lot...Actually, it was the FCA (fuel control actuator) which is a solenoid controlled part on your CP3 (injection pump) which is on the low pressure side of the pump that threw the code to the ECM.Never heard of this fail safe feature you're talking about. I'm almost positive there is no such thing. There is a SKIM module that will cause the truck to start/stall quickly if the truck is equipped with SKIM but its got nothing to Do with wether the lift pump works or not. It is an anti-theft function.in tank is a rip off, crazy expensive and arent any better, they wont last any longer...my 03 dodge diesel lost its lift pump and i replaced it with a napa oem replacement for $170, works great! my buddies dodge lost a lift pump he did the conversion with a mopar in tank pump, it went out within a few months so mopar warrantied it..got a new one...it went out again within a few months so he went and did the same thing and bought a cheap oem replacement lift pump and went back to stock and never has failed since... :twocents: and with 03 dodge as soon as your lift pump fails the failsafe kicks in immediately and kills all power to your truck...no lights no nothing! if you turn the key off and back on it will run for about 2 seconds and turn off again so you dont ruin your injector pumpI have an 03 dodge and a 05 with the 6 speed stick and deisel. They pull hard... IMO the best combination for owning a dodge. One point i would make about the 03 is SOME of the 03 have a frame mounted fuel pump. :tdown: Could have lost my injector pump when mine went out. Most after that vintage have an in the tank pump system. Why is this important? In the tank pumps self lubricate lasting longer. When lifter pumps go out often your injection pump works itself to death trying to lift the fuel and squirt it. Lifter pumps are cheep Injector pumps... not so much...
Spot on. A fuel pressure guage is cheap insurance for this.
well MY 03 dodge diesel did it and its bone stock and according to every other dodge nut told me yep they wont do anything when the lift pump fails...no power to anything...maybe i was just imagining it tho when i was stuck on the side of the road...turned the key three times and the on board diagnostic system that is stock on it threw a code on my dashboard for a lift pump, replaced truck started right up and havent had a problem since
Your lift pump was dying a slow death and you never knew it. Get a fuel pressure gauge installed so you know when it's happening again, and it will happen again, so you don't get stuck on the side of the road. :twocents:
I was just trying to explain to what your truck did and why it did it and which part it is on the truck that threw the code that it did.
Post by: Special T on December 08, 2012, 06:50:30 PM
Post by: M_ray on December 08, 2012, 09:26:31 PM
For you guys complaining about the mileage of these trucks you do realize that aren't even broken in until about 75-80k miles right?
Where do you guys come up with this stuff? :chuckle:
Not talking your initial break in but have you owned one of these engines? They will get their their optimum mileage at 75-80 cause the engines are so tight ... in other words I've known guys with the 7.3 that started with 14 miles per gallon and by the time they were at 70k they were getting 17-18 or better ... I bought mine with 30k on it and about 15 per mile and by the time I reached 80 I was getting 19 per gallon. I was driving a semi at the time and our mechanics worked on my truck and told me this is normal.
Post by: snocohunter on December 09, 2012, 10:09:40 AM
Post by: huntnphool on December 09, 2012, 01:53:48 PM
Makes me want to just buy a tundra and sell it when diesel trucks come back down.dont count on that happening!
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 09, 2012, 02:34:13 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 09, 2012, 03:54:52 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 09, 2012, 03:58:37 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 09, 2012, 04:06:20 PM
Getting pretty frustrated with the search. Seems like literally every truck with decent miles dealers and private sellers are $3-4k over KBB. Sometimes more than that. And nobody seems to want to haggle price at all. Even with me putting 25% down. Makes me want to just buy a tundra and sell it when diesel trucks come back down. It's hard to overcome what I want though. I am trying to be patient, but driving my dads spare car a bright yellow Chevy tracker is getting to me. It needs tires and I don't want to drive it in the snow. Not to mention the looks I get
KBB means nothing. Diesel truck or Honda accord. Don't even bother looking at it. It will just upset you. It mostly comes down to auction prices. IE demand. Dealers will sell for what they are selling for on the market.
If you have your own financing, why don't you look privately?
Post by: snocohunter on December 09, 2012, 06:19:52 PM
Josh, I was approved through BECU but only for 20k. I have $6k I want to put down. Maybe a little more. They are just being kinda a holes because I'm not a prime loan. They act like I'm a dead beat because I don't have great credit. Private party guys are asking almost as much, and most have a lot of miles. BECU said 125k or less.
Post by: HntnFsh on December 09, 2012, 06:34:34 PM
Getting pretty frustrated with the search. Seems like literally every truck with decent miles dealers and private sellers are $3-4k over KBB. Sometimes more than that. And nobody seems to want to haggle price at all. Even with me putting 25% down. Makes me want to just buy a tundra and sell it when diesel trucks come back down. It's hard to overcome what I want though. I am trying to be patient, but driving my dads spare car a bright yellow Chevy tracker is getting to me. It needs tires and I don't want to drive it in the snow. Not to mention the looks I get
I'm seriously considering selling my 06 Tundra. Beautiful truck in excellent condition. 76,000 miles. And in the best color available. Seahawks blue. Or as the factory calls it. Blue steel metallic.
Post by: jackelope on December 09, 2012, 08:49:36 PM
www.davesmith.com (http://www.davesmith.com)
Post by: jackelope on December 09, 2012, 08:51:43 PM
Post by: KFhunter on December 09, 2012, 09:01:53 PM
http://iphone.davesmith.com/index.htm#used_p_2FDodge_p_2F2006-Dodge-Ram_p_2B2500-42d911a30a0a00e001f6d156cdfee921_p_2Ehtm (http://iphone.davesmith.com/index.htm#used_p_2FDodge_p_2F2006-Dodge-Ram_p_2B2500-42d911a30a0a00e001f6d156cdfee921_p_2Ehtm)
Post by: KFhunter on December 09, 2012, 09:45:41 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2500-Laramie-4x4-5-9L-Diesel-Long-Heated-Leather-TEXAS-/170950997596?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27cd79365c (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2500-Laramie-4x4-5-9L-Diesel-Long-Heated-Leather-TEXAS-/170950997596?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item27cd79365c)
I like those Texas trucks, long as they ain't been flooded.
Post by: JLS on December 09, 2012, 09:48:35 PM
Trust me, my want will overcome everything here. I think... I can afford more than my budget but I don't want a $550 truck payment really.
So if you can't afford it, why not buy a gasser instead? Unless you're towing constantly you probably don't need the diesel. Read the thread about Chevy 6.0 motors. When I was truck shopping I found several 2500 short boxes with auto tranny and 6.0, and all were in the 18-22k range.
Post by: KFhunter on December 09, 2012, 10:07:05 PM
Diesels are a pain in the butt in a lot of ways, they are not a get in and go a block truck.
They are expensive and don't break even until you tow heavy a lot of miles.
otherwise, get a 1/2 ton gasser
Post by: snocohunter on December 10, 2012, 08:19:14 AM
As for Dave smith motors I don't see them being much cheaper at all. I would have to save a couple grand to make it worth the trip over there. Thanks for all the input from everyone. I've learned a lot of interesting things.
Post by: Mudman on December 10, 2012, 04:55:46 PM
Post by: xd2005 on December 10, 2012, 05:37:15 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 10, 2012, 06:46:26 PM
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,112653.msg1476354/topicseen.html (http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,112653.msg1476354/topicseen.html)
I'll keep it in mind. Wish it was 2 years newer so it had real doors. I have a kid on the way and plan on having the truck for a long time, and prefer to be able to use the back seat.
Post by: Grit dog on December 11, 2012, 11:29:04 PM
Heck if it's too small of a cab in 5 years and has 100k mi on it, it will still be worth something.
If you're looking for low miles you won't find one much better than that.
Post by: snocohunter on December 11, 2012, 11:38:51 PM
Post by: JLS on December 12, 2012, 06:37:05 AM
All that said, it will work fine.
Post by: Special T on December 12, 2012, 06:38:12 AM
Post by: jackelope on December 12, 2012, 07:20:58 AM
It's a nice truck for sure, wonder what it books for. Seems low miles or 6 sp means add $5kYou really gotta quit paying attention to book value if you want to buy something. Every time you look at book value, the price of the truck will be too high and you'll never buy anything. KBB is absolutely useless in the world of vehicle sales.
.02
Post by: Woodchuck on December 12, 2012, 07:25:14 AM
Post by: snocohunter on December 12, 2012, 07:35:44 AM
It's a nice truck for sure, wonder what it books for. Seems low miles or 6 sp means add $5kYou really gotta quit paying attention to book value if you want to buy something. Every time you look at book value, the price of the truck will be too high and you'll never buy anything. KBB is absolutely useless in the world of vehicle sales.
.02
Then how come the bank will only loan on blue book values? I understand it's not 100% accurate, but when I sold my car everyone's expectation was based off blue book pricing. I don't have an issue with paying more, i am mostly concerned with resale value. I know the market dictates real pricing, and so on, but I just find it really hard to believe there is a $5k swing in price for diesel trucks.
Post by: snocohunter on December 12, 2012, 07:37:38 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on December 12, 2012, 07:39:53 AM
Print ads for comparable trucks and go to the bank and show them "real world" value. Most bank people are not car people, they are just going by what some other banker taught them.It's a nice truck for sure, wonder what it books for. Seems low miles or 6 sp means add $5kYou really gotta quit paying attention to book value if you want to buy something. Every time you look at book value, the price of the truck will be too high and you'll never buy anything. KBB is absolutely useless in the world of vehicle sales.
.02
Then how come the bank will only loan on blue book values? I understand it's not 100% accurate, but when I sold my car everyone's expectation was based off blue book pricing. I don't have an issue with paying more, i am mostly concerned with resale value. I know the market dictates real pricing, and so on, but I just find it really hard to believe there is a $5k swing in price for diesel trucks.
Post by: jackelope on December 12, 2012, 08:24:04 AM
Post by: et1702 on December 12, 2012, 08:40:20 AM
Also, there is nothing wrong with that blue truck. I'm sure it will run for another 20 years. There is a white one here locally with 63000 miles for about the same price. When the price of the blue one was $14500 it was a screaming deal. $18500 is still about right on the money though.
It was originally posted as $16,500. Even at $18,500, the truck only has 46K miles and is still one heck of a deal :twocents: I have the same truck, except mine is a 6spd manual. I LOVE my truck! Not trying to talk you into anything, but you said you had $6k down. Make an offer on truck and you are only financing $10 to $12K. Monthly payments would be a couple hundred bucks, at most!
But, If you don't pull the trigger, I'll bet you a $100 bucks that it won't last more than a week on CL before it sells to someone else.
ET
Post by: Special T on December 12, 2012, 09:38:11 AM
Post by: Mudman on December 12, 2012, 10:01:13 AM
Post by: JLS on December 12, 2012, 10:03:18 AM
I thought the first year that they had the 6 speed manual was in 03? I had 3 of the trucks with the 5speed stick... one of them had a hell of a time keeping the 5th gear on while towing heavy loads.
99 was first year.
Post by: gutsnthegrass on December 12, 2012, 02:10:17 PM
Post by: snocohunter on December 12, 2012, 03:26:54 PM
If that blue dodge was a 6 speed I'd probably jump on it. Again not taking anything away from that truck. Just trying to make the best purchase, I'm in no hurry patience is key.
Post by: jrebel on December 12, 2012, 04:17:56 PM
Post by: Grit dog on December 13, 2012, 10:54:40 AM
Also take a look at Seattle Cragislist right now. It has more miles 195k, but theres a real clean, stock looking 02 Dmax EC/SB 4wd for $9400. Depending on what's been done for repairs it may be a bargain. I had a 02 Dmax that never gave me a lick of trouble up to 100k mi, but then I sold it. If that one hasn't been hot rodded, good maint on the Alli trans and has had unit bearings, tie rods and injectors done already then it's a real bargain.
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on December 13, 2012, 11:05:06 AM
Post by: Special T on December 13, 2012, 09:50:49 PM
Post by: Heredoggydoggy on December 13, 2012, 10:01:25 PM
I wou;d bet that a regular cab 2wd non turbo 7.3 in that vintage is only worth $3.5k if it is 4wd and extended cab its worth quite a bit more... I don't rember when the 7.3 became a turbo tho...
I don't know the details on it. Never even seen it myself except for pictures. That's why I would point anyone interested to somebody who knows more about it. I think it's an Extended Cab. Not sure if it's 4x4... :dunno:
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 14, 2012, 06:32:23 PM
here you go, just posted in classified.
Post by: Special T on December 15, 2012, 09:41:56 AM
Post by: eastsidemallard74 on January 03, 2013, 08:04:39 AM
I've been truck shopping after selling my Subaru wrx. It was a fun car for my early and mid 20's but I need a truck. I started looking at half tons but was reminded by all my friends that bought them before they had anythingntotow that they wished they had bought a diesel.If you want good resale, dont buy a Chevy or a Ford, buy a Dodge, best resale for Diesel trucks, if you want comfort and style buy a Duramax,LTZ is I think hands down the nicest truck out there.If you want scrap metal buy a POWERJOKE.Just my 2cents.
Been shopping CL for about a month but just can't seem to find anything that fits the bill. BECU is requiring under 125k miles and my budget is about 26 out the door with my own financing through them. Dealer maybe a tad more with the right financing.
If anyone knows of a good crew cab/quad cab truck let me know. I prefer a duramax but I'm open at this point. I've absorbed a lot of info in my searches. So I have a bit if an idea what to stay away from.
Post by: snocohunter on January 06, 2013, 12:28:00 AM
I went over budget a bit but I got the truck I want. I need to get some good floor mats for it soon. Any recommendations where to get me? Weathertechs or husky?
It was too dark for phone pics but here is the ad
http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dda/detail.jsp?ct=u&car_id=337356262&dealer_id=46815489&car_year=2004&doors=&start_year=1981&body_style=TRUCKS&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&search_type=both&min_price=&dealership_view_name=rallyeautoandtrucksales&drive=&advanced=&fuel=&keywords_display=&end_year=2013&engine=&transmission=&default_sort=&max_mileage=&color=&sort_type=priceDESC&suppressStyle=null&resultCar=null&max_price=&make=&cardist=7659 (http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dda/detail.jsp?ct=u&car_id=337356262&dealer_id=46815489&car_year=2004&doors=&start_year=1981&body_style=TRUCKS&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&search_type=both&min_price=&dealership_view_name=rallyeautoandtrucksales&drive=&advanced=&fuel=&keywords_display=&end_year=2013&engine=&transmission=&default_sort=&max_mileage=&color=&sort_type=priceDESC&suppressStyle=null&resultCar=null&max_price=&make=&cardist=7659)
Post by: Swatson on January 06, 2013, 03:05:07 AM
Post by: dr.derek on January 06, 2013, 08:11:33 AM
Post by: DBHAWTHORNE on January 06, 2013, 08:23:05 AM
Post by: JohnVH on January 06, 2013, 08:27:59 AM
Post by: snocohunter on January 06, 2013, 12:47:06 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 06, 2013, 08:42:17 PM
I was looking at it for my brother in-law who lives in Portland. :yike:
Post by: JLS on January 06, 2013, 08:47:28 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 06, 2013, 08:51:23 PM
Post by: Doc Sauce on January 06, 2013, 09:13:34 PM
I'm looking for a Superduty F250 or 350 for myself... If anybody wants to trade an old couch and a homemade birthday cake for one let me know!
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 06, 2013, 09:19:08 PM
Post by: eastsidemallard74 on January 07, 2013, 07:28:15 AM
My brother-in law did car fax on it, and showed three owners, and one accident with airbag not deploying.JUST an FYI, Carfaxes are a good tool when buying, to a point. When or if any insurance claim,accident,ticket or anything is reported on that vehicle, it than gets put on a Carfax. So for instance, if you scratch your car,and do a report with the insurance, it gets put on a carfax.So not everyting is always as bad as some think. So don't weigh your entire buying on a carfax.Plus ,if they don't report and do a half but job on the repairs,it won't show.
Post by: snocohunter on January 07, 2013, 08:16:35 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 07, 2013, 08:35:24 AM
Post by: snocohunter on January 07, 2013, 09:01:41 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 07, 2013, 09:11:37 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 07, 2013, 09:13:21 AM
Post by: jackelope on January 07, 2013, 09:20:41 AM
Post by: jackelope on January 07, 2013, 09:22:31 AM
Post by: saltwaterhillbilly on January 07, 2013, 10:32:33 AM
Post by: snocohunter on January 07, 2013, 10:38:17 AM
And Kyle, thanks a lot buddy. You know i luv you long time! (no homo)
Post by: 6x6in6 on January 07, 2013, 01:35:36 PM
I agree with Josh on the front end alignment and the pull. Very few working parts up front that can cause them to pull. Does it have Toyo MT tires on it? 3rd gen Dodges are known to pull to the right with Toyo MT's for some reason....
Also, if you sent the vin to Josh, have him tell you which version of the 5.9 you have since the '04's released 2 different ones. The early '04's had a 555TQ and the late 04's had a 610TQ engine. Some minor changes but the biggest one was different injectors. The early '04's get significantly better fuel economy. The late '04's have a 3rd fuel injection event for emission purposes. :bash:
Post by: snocohunter on January 07, 2013, 10:03:18 PM
Post by: 6x6in6 on January 08, 2013, 01:34:47 PM
Thanks Cory Josh and everyone else. Me and Kyle just spent a bunch of time looking it over really good. Pulled some connectors and they looked fine. It does have Toyo mt's and it definitely pulls now that I drive it more and pay attention to it. Josh didn't tell me which motor but I never gave him my fax to send stuff over. The truck was built in 5/03 per the door tag. But title is an 04. Going to sleep on the situation and decide what to do. The dealer has been super cool so far for the record.5/03 production date is going to be the early '04 model. So you have the 305hp 555tq engine.
The engine data plate will look similar to this to confirm. Look on the driver's side of the engine for the data plate up near the valve cover.
Post by: 6x6in6 on January 08, 2013, 01:37:16 PM