Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: turkeyfeather on February 11, 2013, 11:18:19 AM
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I got an old camper (early 70's) from a buddy for free. I am wanting to convert it to use for hunting camper. It was originally set up to run on propane. However all the lines are dry rotted and I don't know if the stove, heater or fridge even work anymore. I was thinking of just yanking all that out and setting it up to use a regular coleman type camp stove. So my first question is are those safe to use indoors. With carbon monoxide and all. I bought a little buddy heater to put in it cause it has a shut off. What do you guys think?
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NO!! Would not be safe at all, unless you set-up a very good ventilation system.
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That's what I thought but then I wondered how did it work being on propane to begin with?
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Yank the fridge & use space for storage, they suck to much propane anyway, a cooler works fine. My propane lines are copper, I didn't know copper could dry rot. :chuckle: But I would try to get that stove working. If you use the coleman stove just cook outside.
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Ya go for it. Fix everything and use what you can. Fridges dont use much propane, at least mine dont. 1 thing you must do is get proper ventilation and GET a monoxide and smoke detector. Maybe even too just to be safe. Copper doesnt rot but hoses in sytem can. There is alot of easy fixes for some of these appliances. Sometimes you can fix em for nothing. Spiders can plug fridges. Fuse and multiple sensors in furnace can malfunction. Stoves almost always work if propane line is good. If fridge smells of amonia dispose of it. Regulators can be bad on propane. Double check for leaks. Water pump and water tanks are important and easy. Lots you can mess with. :chuckle:
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I was trying to do it cheap now your starting to make it sound expensive. :chuckle: :chuckle: Does anyone know if those little buddies are ok to use. It says its safe for indoors but I wonder.
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The newer little buddie have an auto shutoff when gases are present.
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I was trying to do it cheap now your starting to make it sound expensive. :chuckle: :chuckle: Does anyone know if those little buddies are ok to use. It says its safe for indoors but I wonder.
Nah. Alot of DIY fixes for nothing. Check em out first before pitching them. 20$ for monoxide/smoke detectors. If buddy is a catalyst heater I think they suck oxygen so window should be open.
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Propane stove is a propane stove :dunno: I am sure you could use it in there, they have a roof vent and windows right?
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Propane stove is a propane stove :dunno: I am sure you could use it in there, they have a roof vent and windows right?
Ya that, most of the campers you see now come with no better then a colman stove. I have been using a little buddy in my tents for years. Honestly unless it is below freezing I rarely turn it on. I good comforter or sleeping bag does just fine. It works great for taking the chill off though.
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Doesn't the old stove vent fan still there? I would think it would be safe if you leave the old vent fan in. Also I would go right off the refrigerator replace the line with a quake release fast hook up and see if it works. If not dump it. You might be able to find a free one that works. Lots of old trailer out there. :tup:
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When you say "regular coleman type camp stove" you talking propane or white gas? I'd use the propane with a window open, but I would never use the white gas indoors.
As far as the Mr. Buddy heater is concerned, they are ok for indoor use if you have good ventilation. We use them in ice houses when ice fishing, and the flame will start to flicker when the oxygen gets too low in the fishhouse (these are the canvas pop-up type, so they're always leaking a little air around zippers, etc). Don't think I'd sleep with the heater on inside. This being the internet, and you being responsible for your own life/gray matter, do what you think works best for you, of course. :chuckle:
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Thanks for the info all. Yes there is still the original vent fan however it is electric so you have to be hooked up to power to make it work. I am thinking my best bet is to just take the fridge and stove out and create more storage and just use a cook stove outside.
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My FIL and I used a little buddy heater this last yr in his camper, we cracked a window about 3/4" and cracked a roof vent and went to bed. Did this for a week straight. I also agree that a propane stove is a propane stove, the only difference is one is permanent. Crack windows, youll be fine.
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Thanks for the info all. Yes there is still the original vent fan however it is electric so you have to be hooked up to power to make it work. I am thinking my best bet is to just take the fridge and stove out and create more storage and just use a cook stove outside.
If it works by take it out? :twocents:
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Used a big buddy in elk camp for 9 days and deer camp for 9 days for a couple of years now and it has destroyed any bain cills! hehe
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Ya, check stuff out before ya tear it out. Alot of that stuff you can probably get working again. Power can come from truck or a battery most likely.
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My FIL and I used a little buddy heater this last yr in his camper, we cracked a window about 3/4" and cracked a roof vent and went to bed. Did this for a week straight. I also agree that a propane stove is a propane stove, the only difference is one is permanent. Crack windows, youll be fine.
My feelings, exactly. We used a buddy heater in a camper with a window & vent open 1" or so. Worked fine. Same with the stove. You have to add fresh air. Never fall asleep with any appliance going. I always shut everything down at night.
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I wanted an old camper that I didn't need to worry about taking out into the boonies so picked up an old 8.5 ft. Six-Pac. Everything worked but the center of the roof sagged and it was a leaker, though the rest of the structure was great. I rolled back the metal of the roof, replaced all of the damaged wood, jacked the roof center back into place and then reinforced it with 2x2 stringers (tapered on the ends) on each side of the original flat 1x4's, glued and screwed in place. Then I screwed luan plywood down on the whole thing, rolled the metal back on and covered the whole thing with EPDM rubber (the stuff you buy in a can and add a catalyst to). That's been several years ago and it stays as dry as a bone. Bit by bit I've improved it as I've had time and money but the first thing was to have a dry place to sleep when I was hunting, fishing or gold panning. I added a catalytic heater and it's important to have good cross ventilation. I open a side window about 1/4 inch and the window on the door about the same. A friend who has a similar setup but with a solid door window opens a side window and a roof vent. If you use a propane coleman stove it's okay but crack a window with that, too. Should even do that with a built in since it's burning oxygen and adding moisture inside your camper. If you're concerned about propane leaks mix up some dish soap and water in a trigger sprayer bottle, turn on the tank, and then go from fitting to fitting and wet it down with the soap/water mixture and watch for bubbles. You can also use that stuff in the bottles that kids blow bubbles with. If you need to do roof work and want to see how I did mine let me know. I took plenty of pictures.
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This should heat your camper pretty well! :tup:
Edit: forgot the link! O.o
feature=youtube_gdata_player
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There are heaters/catalytic made for campers that hook up to propane lines. I have one in mine. They sip propane and work very well. I can take pic for you if ya want. I use it more then the furnace.
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I will be honest I didn't read all the posts, to begin I'm confused about the rutted lines are they not copper :dunno: I would go thru and blow all the lines and equipment out real god and then try them you might be surprised :twocents:
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i bought a 78 caveman with the heater, stove and refer...plus a crapper. i refurbed the heater...took it all apart cleaned and re-sealed it...works great after some tweeking. the refer just needs to be level to work. checked all the connections to make sure it was solid and now i have cold beer after the hunt. the stove is bullet proof...just sprayed the lines to make sure they were sealed. had some front leakage around the window so did the rip tear and rebuild the inside. the crapper makes great storage space. i would make sure the unit is totally gone and cannot be repaired before i rip it out. even with the cave...cross ventilation is always open...sweaty bodies, clothes and heat mean h2o they are heavy but solid and need of care. good luck
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Well now you guys have got me thinking. I don't know for sure about the lines now. I know the feed lines that the propane hooks up to are rubber. I just assumed the lines on the inside were as well. I am going to have to look and see if they are copper now. I think I am going to take your advice and check everything out before removing it. I guess in the end if it all works and is safe it would be nicer and easier. Like I said it was free, so I suppose even if I have to put a little money into it I am still way ahead. I would love to see the pics from those of you who have made repairs and such. And I will post some pics of ours as well.
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turkeyfeather...i just put my pic on the....lets see your hunting truck thread...a couple down from this one same area.
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I've done this with a 1970 prowler trailer i bought for CHEEP! here are some suggestions for your build that i learned from mine.
Check to see what works... If it does keep it if it don't yard it out!
Older propane fridges are great because they aren't as particular as newer ones. some times a recharge and cleaning are all it takes to revive one... If that don't do it yard it out and buy a Coleman 12 volt cooler. if you put a frozen 2 liter of ice in it and plug it in to your system it will likely last your whole trip... IF your replace water lines use PEX or Wirsbo type pipe Don't use PVC to just scab it together you'll be happy you did... Shark bite fitting are great for PEX and connecting to copper etc. Reinforce any pic points... My buddy made a reinforcement bracket for this camper jack that also supported the portion of the camper over the cab. Cheep easy welding job making the brackets and screwing them in. I replaced many of the screws on my trailer with the ribber grommet's screws used on metal roofs. They were about the same size and helped seal things up.
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That is some great advice/tips T. You can get spiders and bees crawled up in the riser tube in back of fridge and it wont work.
