Post by: quadrafire on December 12, 2013, 08:09:17 PM
This is a longbow approx 50 lbs shooting 3555 GT's with varying tip wt
Post by: TONTO on December 12, 2013, 08:17:33 PM
Post by: quadrafire on December 12, 2013, 08:22:05 PM
I kind of assumed if it was tuned well it wouldn't wear much??
Post by: Snapshot on December 22, 2013, 06:31:06 PM
That aside, I will make a recommendation that will reduce the amount of contact that your arrow makes with the bow. The reason that minimizing contact is important is because we aren't machines and so there are slight inconsistencies in shooting that transfer to the arrow and thus affect the arrow's flight. If you reduce the bow's contact on the arrow you will reduce the ill effects caused by minor inconsistencies in shooting. Here is what I would suggest: so that it lies perpendicular to the arrow shaft, insert about a 3/8" to 1/2" long piece of a paper match under the rug rest and another piece under the strike plate; stop them about 1/8" from the inside corner where the shelf meets the riser to allow a space for the bottom hen feather to pass by without touching the match 'shims'. On longbows this spot should be at the apex of the curve on the shelf (if your shelf is flat, shame on the bowyer). On recurves it should be directly above the deepest part of the handle where the 'web' of your hand rests on the handle.
Good shooting!
Post by: mountainman on December 22, 2013, 07:48:30 PM
Post by: boneaddict on December 22, 2013, 07:59:26 PM
Post by: quadrafire on December 22, 2013, 08:42:34 PM
Bone this is a similar bow to your hawk.
Post by: Jellymon on December 22, 2013, 09:44:48 PM
That said, excessive wear could be too heavily spined arrow, too low nock point, or wrong vane orientation.
Post by: mountainman on December 22, 2013, 10:28:05 PM
I'm not an expert, just going by what I read while learning to shoot my recurve. Remember archers paradox. When the string leaves your fingers is has to go around them on the left side, the arrow also bends point and nock to the left with the center going to the right. If spine is correct it will be in this bent state when released from the string, passing by the riser. The tail of the arrow will pass the riser further left than it was resting at full draw. I believe this is what you are seeing. It's also what allows for sufficient vane clearance with traditional bows. :tup::yeah:
That said, excessive wear could be too heavily spined arrow, too low nock point, or wrong vane orientation.
Post by: quadrafire on December 23, 2013, 10:58:12 AM
I am not seeing any feather wear, I think it is the arrow itself causing the shelf wear. I feel I'm probably pretty weak spined with the 3355 Gold tips, but may play with point weight a bit. I think the first thing I will do is move my knock point.
All this being said, it seems the arrows are flying true, so I may not change anything.
???????
Post by: ravdakot on December 23, 2013, 01:49:20 PM
I'm not an expert, just going by what I read while learning to shoot my recurve. Remember archers paradox. When the string leaves your fingers is has to go around them on the left side, the arrow also bends point and nock to the left with the center going to the right. If spine is correct it will be in this bent state when released from the string, passing by the riser. The tail of the arrow will pass the riser further left than it was resting at full draw. I believe this is what you are seeing. It's also what allows for sufficient vane clearance with traditional bows. :tup:
That said, excessive wear could be too heavily spined arrow, too low nock point, or wrong vane orientation.
+1 tuning trad stuff is almost an art. Compounds are easy on comparison... bare shaft tuning will tell you a whole lot!
Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk
Post by: quadrafire on December 23, 2013, 02:55:38 PM
I have done quite alot of bare shaft shooting using grouping compared to feathered shafts.
My main problem is more with consistency of technique.
Post by: Snapshot on January 05, 2014, 06:16:06 PM