Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: WA hunter14 on March 01, 2014, 10:27:04 PM
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can someone give me the basics on lifting a truck? how to decide how big of lift? what is some good brands? what else you have to do to your truck if anything other than just putting the kit on? wether to get suspension or body lifts or both?
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What year, make, and model? How do you use the truck now? Camper, trailering?
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What year, make, and model? How do you use the truck now? Camper, trailering?
Ill bite, we're wondering the same question.
2005 Ford Explorer, Daily Driver, next to no towing, Hunting/Trapping/Fishing Rig.
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What year, make, and model? How do you use the truck now? Camper, trailering?
1978 f250 no towing or camper just daily driver and hunting truck
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Not sure what you have but I put a 6 in suspension lift on mine with 35's and 18in wheels.
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Not sure what you have but I put a 6 in suspension lift on mine with 35's and 18in wheels.
And what did that run you? We want to lift our's to give us a safer ride when were out and about, Clearance is a problem right now with 20" rims and low profile tires :bash:
My girls ex husband was a pure tool, I cant stand the wheels on there now.
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I used to have a 77' great trucks! With a solid axle there is not much to it. That year of truck doesn't have the greatest rear end and driveline U-joint strength, I would go with 6" of lift and 35" tires at a maximum. How big of lift should be dictated by the tire size you want to run, tire size should be dictated by what you want to do with the truck. I am guessing since you asked this question you are just doing it for looks and mild off road performance, I would go with a 4" lift with 33" tires. Make sure to spend the xtra (cheap lift anyway with the solid axle) and get new spring packs that have the added height built in and not do the blocks. Body lifts should only be done if more height is needed when you cannot raise the suspension anymore due to variouse reasons, another reason for body lifts could be for engine mods where clearance and air flow are an issue. Obviously there is allot that goes into the final decision here so the more information on how you use the truck, current mods and other pertinent info will help guide you in the right direction. One thing you may want to check is the rear end gearing you have, as this really does influence how tall of tires you should use without having to change gearing.
I would love to see some before and after pics, I get sentimental with the old fords, the one I usd to have holds a special place in my heart and I will one day be getting another one and turning it into a wheeler as well!
Regards,
H&F
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thank you for the input, i love 70's fords i looked for one for a long time before i found one. its disapointing to here that i couldnt lift it higher if im gonna spend the money id really want to do a good job at it like a 6-8 inch lift and get close to 40'' tires. but oh well i spend alot of time in the woods especially at odd times of the year when no one else it out there and obviously rely on my vehicle so anything questionable would be a no go.
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Not sure what you have but I put a 6 in suspension lift on mine with 35's and 18in wheels.
And what did that run you? We want to lift our's to give us a safer ride when were out and about, Clearance is a problem right now with 20" rims and low profile tires :bash:
My girls ex husband was a pure tool, I cant stand the wheels on there now.
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Lifting a explorer is going to make your rig more dangerous IMO, due to its short wheel base, put a 2" body lift and some 31" tires or 33" and cut the fenders. This way you keep the center of gravity low. But ya rims and low pro tires do make you look like a D-bag.... :chuckle:
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Too much money!! That also has a lot to do with the brand of tires and wheels. Mine was $5000+. I had everything done at Les. You'll find that a lot of people will disagree with the quality of work they do, but I have had zero issues. They can tell you, based off the vehicle you have what size tires you could put on with a 6 or 9 in lift and still be safe.. I wish I had the ability todo that type of work myself and I'm sure I could have saved a lot.
I don't tow anything, just day to day street driving and hunting trips..
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Not sure what you have but I put a 6 in suspension lift on mine with 35's and 18in wheels.
And what did that run you? We want to lift our's to give us a safer ride when were out and about, Clearance is a problem right now with 20" rims and low profile tires :bash:
My girls ex husband was a pure tool, I cant stand the wheels on there now.
Lifting a explorer is going to make your rig more dangerous IMO, due to its short wheel base, put a 2" body lift and some 31" tires or 33" and cut the fenders. This way you keep the center of gravity low. But ya rims and low pro tires do make you look like a D-bag.... :chuckle:
Well as far as safety I meant like off roading or dirt roads, With our low pro's they have almost NO traction and are flat. Completely ridiculous. Wheel base? What's that? :chuckle: Im just wanting to get the girls rig actually usable instead of a boring truck.
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Guys put 8" of lift and 40's on that year of truck all the time. One of the things that can end up going with no real warning on that year is a U-joint (just carry a spare in the glove box, I used to...), and maybe a catastrophic tranny failure, most other things will wine, clunk or make some other noise at you for awhile before it goes. And just know that when you do lift an old truck like that it is not if but when you will be working on it, they really weren't set up for the wide tall tires like today's trucks are in my opinion.... I have had late seventies, late eighties, early nineties, late nineties, and new trucks, most were lifted, but all had there issues due to being lifted...but I do tend to beat the H**LL out of my rigs as well so you may experience different results :chuckle:
Regards,
H&F
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Too much money!! That also has a lot to do with the brand of tires and wheels. Mine was $5000+. I had everything done at Les. You'll find that a lot of people will disagree with the quality of work they do, but I have had zero issues. They can tell you, based off the vehicle you have what size tires you could put on with a 6 or 9 in lift and still be safe.. I wish I had the ability todo that type of work myself and I'm sure I could have saved a lot.
I don't tow anything, just day to day street driving and hunting trips..
Was that an IFS truck? No way that should of cost that much with a solid axle truck.
Look for a lift that uses rear springs, rather than lift blocks. Lift blocks tend to increase the axle wrap. Front lift blocks are a super no-no. They are illegal in all 50 states as well.
Don't forget to re-gear the axles to match the size of tire. I see it all the time.. A person lifts a rig, adds larger tires, then complains about the lack of power. The first thing they want to do is increase their HP. 99% of the time, a simple gear swap will bring the rpm range back into the operating range of the engine and they will be fine.
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I like the lift/stance of this truck. Not too much lift and tire. But enough to be functional.
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Looks like the choices are 6.5 or 9 inch with SuperLift
http://www.superlift.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=CC5C6C7D0D48482182DDDFE084FEE3EA (http://www.superlift.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=CC5C6C7D0D48482182DDDFE084FEE3EA)
It looks like some of the higher end brands of lifts no longer stock their 70's model pickup lifts
these pickups look great with 35's and 37's.
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Keep it practical and on 33-35's imo. Priced a set of new 40's yet? :chuckle:
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I've run up to a 38" tire on a 92 Chevy. Was a good truck, but I'll never do it again. I'll build a toy for that anymore. Bigger tires suck in the ice and slick snow, the width is what gets you. On my super duty I may level the front and that's all. It run's a 33 stock. The other one that gets you is the wheel width, the wider the wheel and offset the smaller tire you will be able to clear.
Like said earlier, get a good lift. And plan on rebuilding the front end if it isn't good and tight now. Any worn part will be magnified by the larger tires. Kits are easy to install based on you mechanic knowledge and the tools you have. Of course a good hoist helps. I've probably lifted more than 1000 rigs in my days sentenced to hard labor at les Schwab, it's probably the only thing I miss about that place.
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That would be a perfect rig to run military rubber on. Either the Goodyear 37in or some of the 20 in military tires in the 40" range. The 37s can be bought many places and run on steel or alum wheels. Some of the 20 in military can be run on newer alum rims and are about the right width The 12.5R20 would be the perfect 40" tire but are harder to find. The 1200R20s can be put on the same rims however the tires are a LOT heavier. Another size that is sweet is the 14.5R20. All of those sizes are popular with people running Unimogs, the smaller older ones 404's and such. Thats a cool truck and would look sweet with 37's and still be some what functional.
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Plan on more maintenance once its lifted. Big tires are hard on suspension parts.
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I have lifted many trucks.
I am a minimalist with tall truck tires unless you are willing to pay big dollars. If you go super big like 38 or 40 inch tall tires you have to re-gear your axles.
If you go with 33 or 35 max you will have plenty of height to go most places. I have 33's on a 2008 Toyota Tacoma that my son has at WSU. I have a 2012 F150 eco boost which will most likely get 35's. Going a little taller will not require a re-gearing. Save you money. Getting a tire width at 10 inch or 9 inch will cause your gas mileage to drop but better then a 12 inch wide tire.
If you are a full size truck 35 inch is not a big reach. If you are a mid size truck 33 would be my choice. Identify the tires first then work back words the size of the lift. To put those tall of tires you will need a two inch spacer or minimal 2 inch lift for most rigs.
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i have have had a couple of older ford 3/4tons. i would go with no more than 4 inches of lift. I think you can do whatever you need to with 35" tires. would not worry about having to rehear with that tires size. I assume your motor is a 351 or 400. which neither are power houses but will do the job. i ran 36"s with a 360 in my 76 ford with no problems. Don't know how you drive in the mountains but i like to keep things as low as possible. For those trucks most leaf spring lifts are going to give you what you need. if you can afford rear leafs i would go with the but not necessary .
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I had a 78 ford 1/2 ton 3in. Suspension lift and a 3in body lift and 39 1/2 in. Superswampers.worked really good.The smaller suspension lift kept it from messing up center of gravity and body lift cleared the tires
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I've run up to a 38" tire on a 92 Chevy. Was a good truck, but I'll never do it again. I'll build a toy for that anymore. Bigger tires suck in the ice and slick snow, the width is what gets you. On my super duty I may level the front and that's all. It run's a 33 stock. The other one that gets you is the wheel width, the wider the wheel and offset the smaller tire you will be able to clear.
Like said earlier, get a good lift. And plan on rebuilding the front end if it isn't good and tight now. Any worn part will be magnified by the larger tires. Kits are easy to install based on you mechanic knowledge and the tools you have. Of course a good hoist helps. I've probably lifted more than 1000 rigs in my days sentenced to hard labor at les Schwab, it's probably the only thing I miss about that place.
Not trying to start a debate on this thread.... But....you are incorrect on the point that wider tires are not good in the snow and ice, and narrow is the way to go for performance? Most guys incorrectly compare narrow AT tread pattern tires to big MT blocky style tread patterns on the snow/ice. It would be better to run a wide AT tire in your favorite snow/ice tread than run a narrow version!
Anyway, just had to comment on that! Carry on.
Regards,
H&F
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Debating narrow tires against wide tires is like a chevy vs ford battle. There is no right anwser and everybody has an opinion.
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can you do just a 3 inch body lift and get away with 35's?
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I'd stay away from body lifts. These trucks are pretty basic to lift. I had 33's on a 76 with just add a lift springs. (Just an extra leaf slipped in) everyone has opinions but body lifts cause other issues like needing to extend wiring , hoses etc. they don't look god same either. IMHO 35's are about the biggest for a usable truck of that style, but everyone has their own preference.
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then what about the front?
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can someone give me the basics on lifting a truck?
The basics are that your steering and braking parts will wear out faster. Big tires are more expensive and the aggressive tread on most of those big tires will wear out faster. If you don't adjust your gears for bigger tires, your transmission will take a beating, as will other parts of your drive train. So, you'll be able to clear more obstacles and drive in deeper snow, but you'll have an increased chance of parts failing and leaving you stranded.
Oh, and your MPG will take a hit, adding to the cost each day.
Have fun. :)
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Not trying to start a debate on this thread.... But....you are incorrect on the point that wider tires are not good in the snow and ice, and narrow is the way to go for performance? Most guys incorrectly compare narrow AT tread pattern tires to big MT blocky style tread patterns on the snow/ice. It would be better to run a wide AT tire in your favorite snow/ice tread than run a narrow version!
In my personal runnings it came down to pounds per square inch. Wide tires spin more on the nasty stuff. There is a balance where power cleans the lugs and such. Mainly mudding. When buckshot was still building tires they had a tall narrow tire that was hands down better than any standard 35-12.50. I know rubber compound was a factor also, but even with my SD there is a difference in wide and narrow.
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Not trying to start a debate on this thread.... But....you are incorrect on the point that wider tires are not good in the snow and ice, and narrow is the way to go for performance? Most guys incorrectly compare narrow AT tread pattern tires to big MT blocky style tread patterns on the snow/ice. It would be better to run a wide AT tire in your favorite snow/ice tread than run a narrow version!
In my personal runnings it came down to pounds per square inch. Wide tires spin more on the nasty stuff. There is a balance where power cleans the lugs and such. Mainly mudding. When buckshot was still building tires they had a tall narrow tire that was hands down better than any standard 35-12.50. I know rubber compound was a factor also, but even with my SD there is a difference in wide and narrow.
there is already a thread with a ton of back and forth about tire width...
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Hmmmmmm
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I think 3" of lift would clear 35" tires fine, will give it a bit of a stuffed look, but I kind of like that.
The reason why you typically go with a suspension lift over body is several, but the main reasons are, you are lifting your truck for better off road performance right? Well one of the benefits of a lift is to get your frame and running gear (running gear achieved by bigger tires) off the ground for better clearance. Only a suspension lift does this. Second reason would be a body lift looks terrible :chuckle:
Put a 3" suspension lift on and 35" tires and drive it. You won't need to re-gear anything.
Regards,
H&F
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I think 3" of lift would clear 35" tires fine, will give it a bit of a stuffed look, but I kind of like that.
The reason why you typically go with a suspension lift over body is several, but the main reasons are, you are lifting your truck for better off road performance right? Well one of the benefits of a lift is to get your frame and running gear off the ground for better clearance. Only a suspension lift does this. Second reason would be a body lift looks terrible :chuckle:
Put a 3" suspension lift on and 35" tires and drive it. You won't need to re-gear anything.
Regards,
H&F
thank you thats a great answer, what in your opinion are good brands of suspension lift?
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Grizzly- agree to disagree! I won't thread jack, maybe I need to start a new thread to clear up the tire width debate, where I can show some factual info and discuss the logic behind it. I don't know why it bothers me, I can drive in the snow just fine with any tire combo, it's just a matter of principle I suppose!
Regards,
H&F
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don't be afraid of a moderate lift and bigger tires. its not going to make your truck fall apart driving down the road like others will suggest. The way you drive it is. Regearing isn't necessary with a moderate increase in tire size and won't kill your transmission or differentials immediately. a suspension lift gets your frame away from your running gear giving clearance for bigger tires. bigger tires are what gives you the clearance for you running gears.
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can you do just a 3 inch body lift and get away with 35's?
Isn't that basically what the old "tall boy" Fords were?
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Smossy just get wheels and tires that are worth using! Dont lift it, pricey and body lifts are bad news. Ford f250 can do whatever you want really. 35 is a good size and not so hard on truck. If you get BIG then driveline angles eat u joints. Suspension parts wear and break quickly. Brakes, gearing, engine, steering, transmissions, axles, wheel bearings, and safety are issues to deal with sooner not later. 38 and bigger seem to be the tipping point for most trucks. 37 are max for me but I went down to 35s.
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Smossy just get wheels and tires that are worth using! Dont lift it, pricey and body lifts are bad news. Ford f250 can do whatever you want really. 35 is a good size and not so hard on truck. If you get BIG then driveline angles eat u joints. Suspension parts wear and break quickly. Brakes, gearing, engine, steering, transmissions, axles, wheel bearings, and safety are issues to deal with sooner not later. 38 and bigger seem to be the tipping point for most trucks. 37 are max for me but I went down to 35s.
So 35 inch tires on 16 inch rims?
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Plan on more maintenance once its lifted. Big tires are hard on suspension parts.
I've had a lot of lifted rigs and this is spot on. :tup:
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Smossy just get wheels and tires that are worth using! Dont lift it, pricey and body lifts are bad news. Ford f250 can do whatever you want really. 35 is a good size and not so hard on truck. If you get BIG then driveline angles eat u joints. Suspension parts wear and break quickly. Brakes, gearing, engine, steering, transmissions, axles, wheel bearings, and safety are issues to deal with sooner not later. 38 and bigger seem to be the tipping point for most trucks. 37 are max for me but I went down to 35s.
So 35 inch tires on 16 inch rims?
On a stock Explorer no way. To fit 35s you'd either have to do a bunch of hacking on the body or a bunch of lift.
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looking at my truck it looks like i wouldnt even need to lift it for 35's, is that right?
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Smossy just get wheels and tires that are worth using! Dont lift it, pricey and body lifts are bad news. Ford f250 can do whatever you want really. 35 is a good size and not so hard on truck. If you get BIG then driveline angles eat u joints. Suspension parts wear and break quickly. Brakes, gearing, engine, steering, transmissions, axles, wheel bearings, and safety are issues to deal with sooner not later. 38 and bigger seem to be the tipping point for most trucks. 37 are max for me but I went down to 35s.
So 35 inch tires on 16 inch rims?
On a stock Explorer no way. To fit 35s you'd either have to do a bunch of hacking on the body or a bunch of lift.
What's the largest tire size you can go without compromising clearance?
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can someone tell me what specific parts are needed witha 3 or 4 inch lift, there are alot of kits out there and they dont all have the same stuff.
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I'd stay away from body lifts. These trucks are pretty basic to lift. I had 33's on a 76 with just add a lift springs. (Just an extra leaf slipped in) everyone has opinions but body lifts cause other issues like needing to extend wiring , hoses etc. they don't look god same either. IMHO 35's are about the biggest for a usable truck of that style, but everyone has their own preference.
so your saying i can lift my truck with just leaf springs?
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I would join a forum for your specific truck there are tons of forums out there you could find one for your year of truck and guys with the same truck....pick their brains they can tell you a lot more as far as specific parts and kits than the yahoos on hunting forums....I would recommend 35s at the biggest and enough lift to fit them.use the money you would save on bigger lift and tires, buy a winch, a tow strap and maybe put lockers in the front. That will get you anywhere you have business going. I know it's hard to decide but there is a fine line between an off-road truck and a hunting truck.my dad always said 4x4 is enough to get you out when you're not really stuck but enough to get you really stuck..if that makes any sense?
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A quality 4 inch lift with some 35/36inch tires and your golden. Truck will look good and perform well without too many other issues. A winch is priceless. Superlift and skyjacker have been good to me. Rough country and Les schwab not so much. Springs in front and add a block or spring for rear will work. If you still cant get where your going get some lockers in the diffs. Smossy easy way is to do a Bushwacker fender flare cutout for bigger tires. 4 Wheel Parts will hook you up with details on lifts. But its an explorer after all. Duratracs would do you good on that, just go a size or to bigger than stock.
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I have a 6" with 35s under my 95 chevy and have had zero problems with it. Rough country lift. Had it installed last year
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I have a 6" with 35s under my 95 chevy and have had zero problems with it. Rough country lift. Had it installed last year
I bent leaf springs in my toyota. New rough country lift. Rear was so bad axle spun and destroyed everything. Bent all 4. Not sure what happened. I went to trail gear and chevy spring. Of course a Big block Olds was in it.
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I would join a forum for your specific truck there are tons of forums out there you could find one for your year of truck and guys with the same truck....pick their brains they can tell you a lot more as far as specific parts and kits than the yahoos on hunting forums....I would recommend 35s at the biggest and enough lift to fit them.use the money you would save on bigger lift and tires, buy a winch, a tow strap and maybe put lockers in the front. That will get you anywhere you have business going. I know it's hard to decide but there is a fine line between an off-road truck and a hunting truck.my dad always said 4x4 is enough to get you out when you're not really stuck but enough to get you really stuck..if that makes any sense?
yea it does make sense i know that part all to well thats why ive also been looking into lockers :chuckle:
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Here's a 6in pro-comp suspension lift w/ 35's on my silvy.
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can someone tell me what specific parts are needed witha 3 or 4 inch lift, there are alot of kits out there and they dont all have the same stuff.
I goofed earlier when I posted the link to SuperLift's system. I mistakenly posted the lift for the F150.
it will depend on if you have a factory hi-boy or low-boy.
Skyjacker and Rough Country are the only two companies I found that still advertise 78 F250 suspension lift kits. The Skyjacker will give you a parts list if you want to piece meal it together.
http://skyjacker.com/page.php?PageID=397 (http://skyjacker.com/page.php?PageID=397)
http://www.roughcountry.com/suspension-lift-kits/ford-suspension-lift-kits.html?vehicle_drive=3&vehicle_model=282&vehicle_year=49 (http://www.roughcountry.com/suspension-lift-kits/ford-suspension-lift-kits.html?vehicle_drive=3&vehicle_model=282&vehicle_year=49)
With a Factory Hi-boy you should not need lift to fit 35 inch tires. i believe if you want to go bigger than 35's then you will need to put 4 inch lift and you should be able to roll 37's or 38's depending on width and rim off-set. I don't recall if the 40's will fit under it or not.
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thank you perfect
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What year, make, and model? How do you use the truck now? Camper, trailering?
Ill bite, we're wondering the same question.
2005 Ford Explorer, Daily Driver, next to no towing, Hunting/Trapping/Fishing Rig.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2005+ford+explorer+lift+kit (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2005+ford+explorer+lift+kit)
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What year, make, and model? How do you use the truck now? Camper, trailering?
Ill bite, we're wondering the same question.
2005 Ford Explorer, Daily Driver, next to no towing, Hunting/Trapping/Fishing Rig.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2005+ford+explorer+lift+kit (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2005+ford+explorer+lift+kit)
30.5 x 9.6 is the tallest tire you can get under it stock. ours is 245/70x17. Cooper AT3
the problem with 20 inch rims, is that there are lots of options in low profile/highway tires, but not many options in all terrain until you get into truck size tires at 32 - 34 inch tall tires. you would likely need 6 inches of lift to clear 34 inch tires on an explorer and that would be a stretch and probably a waste of money. That year explorer is already plagued with automatic transmission problems, wheel bearings and high gear ratios. Going from 28 inch stock tire to 34 would be a huge shift in gear ratio, and would suck the life out of that transmission.
I think you would be better served to pick up a used set of 17 or 18 inch rims and put a 30 inch tire on it that gets you what you need. You will pick up an inch of clearance and then you can use the 20's for a summer set. Put your suspension and tire money towards your next vehicle. You will have $4000-5000 into a lift on an explorer that you use for a daily driver and will cut your fuel economy by at least 30%.
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I'd stay away from body lifts. These trucks are pretty basic to lift. I had 33's on a 76 with just add a lift springs. (Just an extra leaf slipped in) everyone has opinions but body lifts cause other issues like needing to extend wiring , hoses etc. they don't look god same either. IMHO 35's are about the biggest for a usable truck of that style, but everyone has their own preference.
so your saying i can lift my truck with just leaf springs?
You can gain an inch or two with a Rancho add a leaf. I was running Buckshots that were about 33". Width factors into it too. Check with Les Schwab if you're thinking of that route
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how to decide how big of lift?
Wouldnt that depend on what you need to lift it for in the first place, or are you simply doing it for appearance? :dunno:
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I'd stay away from body lifts. These trucks are pretty basic to lift. I had 33's on a 76 with just add a lift springs. (Just an extra leaf slipped in) everyone has opinions but body lifts cause other issues like needing to extend wiring , hoses etc. they don't look god same either. IMHO 35's are about the biggest for a usable truck of that style, but everyone has their own preference.
so your saying i can lift my truck with just leaf springs?
You can gain an inch or two with a Rancho add a leaf. I was running Buckshots that were about 33". Width factors into it too. Check with Les Schwab if you're thinking of that route
i do hall some fire wood probably half a dozen cords a year would that flatten out add a leafs?
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Leaves are made from spring steel. They will flatten out some with a load on them, but they will spring back after the weight is removed. Just about any truck can benefit from a set of air bags on the rear suspension. Not only will they improve stability, they also decrease squat. I opted not to install them on my truck (F-350 Dually) as it take A LOT of weight just to get the suspension to squat a little. It rides better with about 500# in the bed.
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I think 3" of lift would clear 35" tires fine, will give it a bit of a stuffed look, but I kind of like that.
The reason why you typically go with a suspension lift over body is several, but the main reasons are, you are lifting your truck for better off road performance right? Well one of the benefits of a lift is to get your frame and running gear (running gear achieved by bigger tires) off the ground for better clearance. Only a suspension lift does this. Second reason would be a body lift looks terrible :chuckle:
Put a 3" suspension lift on and 35" tires and drive it. You won't need to re-gear anything.
Regards,
H&F
I will add to this, if you ever see what happens to a body lift when it falls off the blocks, you will never think of a body only lift, LOL
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Or the body mount works its way through the body mount. Ever seen a vehicle that has been in an accident with a body lift installed? Not pretty.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1303.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fag158%2FRXT60%2FDSCN0064_zps5d47207f.jpg&hash=ca3b7e462111571b8b86988e5e0219d0cf7b8e5d)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi99.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl297%2Fgrewe02%2FThe%2520Jeep%2FDestruction%2FCIMG3218.jpg&hash=7f26f88512e1ab5d6b7c5947c744dae7b00288db)
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Not a fan of "lifts". IMHO, if the suspensiontravel is the same, and they use stock springs and "similar" automotive shocks, it's just BLING, and adds no real performance.
But, I do have some KORE stuff on my Dodge....
KORE, Carli, Ballistic Fab, Brenthel, Camburg all make real good stuff!!!
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Dodge and Ford heavy Duty stuff
http://thecarlisuspension.com/ (http://thecarlisuspension.com/)
Dodge and some Toyota
http://koreperformance.com/ (http://koreperformance.com/)
Something for everyone!!!
http://www.bajakits.com/ (http://www.bajakits.com/)
http://camburg.com/home/ (http://camburg.com/home/)
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A lift is very functional. The installation of larger tires increases the ground clearance under the axles, and substantially increases the break over angle on a vehicle. Where most stock height vehicles would be spinning their wheels in say, 10" of snow, a lifted vehicle will drive right on past.
Most of what people have discussed in this thread has been covered, researched, etc about 10 years ago. Having been around lifted and modified vehicles, I have had the opportunity to see what works and what does not.
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i say take a sawzall to the fenders and just cram the biggest tires you can on there without any sort of lift :flipoff2:
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I'd stay away from body lifts. These trucks are pretty basic to lift. I had 33's on a 76 with just add a lift springs. (Just an extra leaf slipped in) everyone has opinions but body lifts cause other issues like needing to extend wiring , hoses etc. they don't look god same either. IMHO 35's are about the biggest for a usable truck of that style, but everyone has their own preference.
so your saying i can lift my truck with just leaf springs?
You can gain an inch or two with a Rancho add a leaf. I was running Buckshots that were about 33". Width factors into it too. Check with Les Schwab if you're thinking of that route
i do hall some fire wood probably half a dozen cords a year would that flatten out add a leafs?
I've used add a leafs on a couple trucks including the front of my current truck an '89 F250. They stiffen the ride up a bit, but I like them. I'd say my truck ended up sitting and riding about like a 350
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Many lifts have better parts than the oem. Performance of vehicle is improved iin many ways. I think a 3-6" is good for many trucks. For example a half ton chevy seems to squat and point to sky if you haul air in it! But if you lift it it will haul like a dodge! :chuckle: Some rigs shouldnt be lifted like cars and 2wd rangers. Quality lifts/suspension upgrades are not the same as lift blocks and body lifts.
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Im looking at picking up a Pre-2000 Toyota Tacoma so Im sure Ill be bombarding with questions If I can ever get approved for a dang loan :dunno:
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Im looking at picking up a Pre-2000 Toyota Tacoma so Im sure Ill be bombarding with questions If I can ever get approved for a dang loan :dunno:
I believe it will be pretty difficult to get a loan on that old of a truck. Banks dont like the risk of high mileage old vehicles..
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Under 10 years old and 100k miles is what banks prefer. Dad has a 1999 tacoma, great pickups.
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Under 10 years old and 100k miles is what banks prefer. Dad has a 1999 tacoma, great pickups.
I doubt id be able to afford anything in that range. Im looking in like the 5k max range. I tried to get a loan for 3g for a 98 tacoma with 111k miles and they werrent going for it.