Post by: BIGMIKE on February 14, 2015, 03:27:37 PM
I recently acquire a small 1996 14 foot V hull Sea Nymph (V1465TT) with a 18 HP Johnson Seahorse for crabbing. I presure washed the bottom today to remove the paint and see what condition the hull is in...The hull is in great shape but the two 7 foot long hull support is corroded :bash:. I was wondering what is the best way to repair it....or where to get a replacement, or just remove it all together and braze the rivet holes with aluminum rods from Harbor Freight. I dont know anyone that fabricates aluminum parts so Im asking your help if you know someone that can help me make some aluminum support so I can finish this project before fishing season starts. Any idea is welcome. Thanks.
Post by: jay.sharkbait on February 14, 2015, 03:31:53 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on February 14, 2015, 03:33:07 PM
http://www.asseenontv.com/flex-seal-clear-stops-leaks-fast-the-clear-alternative/detail.php?p=458384&v=household (http://www.asseenontv.com/flex-seal-clear-stops-leaks-fast-the-clear-alternative/detail.php?p=458384&v=household)
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 14, 2015, 04:29:41 PM
Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?
Post by: jay.sharkbait on February 14, 2015, 04:36:19 PM
Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?
Good= Scrap value for aluminum is pretty good.
Bad= You have a out board that needs a new home.
Seriously, it looks like someone used a copper based antifoul paint. Those bottom strakes act as stiffeners, so they need to be replaced. I suspect that the hull skins are damaged below those strakes and re-riveting is going to be a nightmare.
Do the chines look bad as well?
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 14, 2015, 04:50:43 PM
Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?
Good= Scrap value for aluminum is pretty good.
Bad= You have a out board that needs a new home.
Seriously, it looks like someone used a copper based antifoul paint. Those bottom strakes act as stiffeners, so they need to be replaced. I suspect that the hull skins are damaged below those strakes and re-riveting is going to be a nightmare.
Do the chines look bad as well?
Chines looked fine. It's just the bottom strakes. Do you know who can makes those? Or where to buy them?
Post by: lokidog on February 14, 2015, 11:06:48 PM
The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself? :twocents: You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed. Wish I had one.... ;)
Post by: wildmanoutdoors on February 15, 2015, 07:42:24 AM
Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces? The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself? :twocents: You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed. Wish I had one.... ;)
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.
Post by: Special T on February 15, 2015, 08:05:31 AM
Post by: lokidog on February 15, 2015, 06:28:26 PM
Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces? The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself? :twocents: You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed. Wish I had one.... ;)
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.
I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today..... What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 16, 2015, 03:53:49 PM
Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces? The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Thanks, Loki for the adviceAfter cleaning and wire brusing the hull, I was relieved to find out that the the hull's condit n is fine. Now I just need to find cheap 90 degree and flat aluminum and marine rivets for a
The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself? :twocents: You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed. Wish I had one.... ;)
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.
I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today..... What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?
Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the project.
Post by: Skillet on February 16, 2015, 04:02:00 PM
That's not to say that a top-notch pro can't make it right for you, but ask a lot of questions. You may decide welding isn't for you and go for an epoxy solution. Just a thought-
Post by: h2ofowlr on February 16, 2015, 04:07:11 PM
Post by: jay.sharkbait on February 16, 2015, 04:09:48 PM
The thin hull will become brittle where you try to weld it. Any rough water and pounding on the water will probably crack the welds. That hull looks shot from the pictures. I wouldn't trust my life or others in that boat.
:yeah:
Post by: lokidog on February 16, 2015, 07:16:50 PM
If you rivet the strip, then weld the angle iron, you might be able to seal the rivets inside, but if it does leak, you would be trapping water in there. Probably not a big deal in a lake, but I wouldn't want saltwater trapped in there.
Be sure to use all aluminum rivets also.
If it is that bad, it might make a good planter for the front yard. :rolleyes: :chuckle:
Post by: syoungs on February 16, 2015, 07:30:37 PM
Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces? The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Thanks, Loki for the adviceAfter cleaning and wire brusing the hull, I was relieved to find out that the the hull's condit n is fine. Now I just need to find cheap 90 degree and flat aluminum and marine rivets for a
The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself? :twocents: You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed. Wish I had one.... ;)
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.
I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today..... What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?
Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the project.
Just so your not blindsided, or think the guy is pulling a fast one, expect whomever is doing the welding to also do his prep work, you doing the brunt of it is great, but he is going to spend some time on it most likely as well, aluminum is tricky to prep and weld correctly!
Post by: lokidog on February 16, 2015, 07:45:14 PM
Post by: L-ofalab on February 17, 2015, 10:12:12 AM
Post by: Rich_S on February 17, 2015, 10:18:03 AM
Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the project.
Welding ............... $50/hour, say 2 hours = $100
Materials .............. Aluminum stock ~$20
Rivets ~$5
Paint ~$20
Sanding discs, masks, etc. ~$5
Approximate cost ... $150
Scrap value of boat ..~20
Total cost of repair ... ~$170
Here's one I sold for ~$150 :
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi256.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh171%2FClark_Savage_Jr%2FBoats%2F12%2520Alum%2520002_zpsp1ivxl8z.jpg&hash=f1c07a273e00a24cd8502a70ffa26a02076f687d) (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/Clark_Savage_Jr/media/Boats/12%20Alum%20002_zpsp1ivxl8z.jpg.html)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi256.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh171%2FClark_Savage_Jr%2FBoats%2F12%2520Alum%2520001_zps9vg4fypw.jpg&hash=3db45e3be52d7f839e83c555954438558271553b) (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/Clark_Savage_Jr/media/Boats/12%20Alum%20001_zps9vg4fypw.jpg.html)
I popped that dent out before I sold it using a rubber hammer. It was courtesy of a wind gust that blew it off the garage onto the grass. No leaks, no corrosion. The scaling on the wood seats was vinyl shelf liner that needed replacing.
If you want to rebuild it as a project, have fun. Economically it doesn't make much sense. Don't forget good PFD's! :)
Post by: Special T on February 17, 2015, 12:49:48 PM
Post by: pjb3 on February 17, 2015, 07:33:09 PM
Post by: jeepster on February 18, 2015, 12:26:21 PM
Post by: rtspring on February 18, 2015, 12:35:38 PM
If you have no expeience with welding aluminum I would let a pro do it.. And please dont try to use the aluminum arc welding rods.. I welded for 20 years
Post by: _TONY_ on February 18, 2015, 12:57:27 PM
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 18, 2015, 08:18:26 PM
Here are some pic of the reinforcement on the hull of my14'. The main keel is a pice of t stock about 1.5" and the side chines are angle 1.5x1.5" this really made an otherwise light boat pretty tough. Ive hit more than a couple of gravel bars full boar and a few submerged logs. No damage other than some dents in the keel and a couple of destroyed props
I like your idea, I was wondering what did you use as rivets? or nut and bolts to secure it in place.
Post by: Special T on February 19, 2015, 07:18:31 AM
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 19, 2015, 10:43:18 AM
Here are some pic of the reinforcement on the hull of my14'. The main keel is a pice of t stock about 1.5" and the side chines are angle 1.5x1.5" this really made an otherwise light boat pretty tough. Ive hit more than a couple of gravel bars full boar and a few submerged logs. No damage other than some dents in the keel and a couple of destroyed props
Special T,
I like what you did with your boat. I was thinking about replacing the Strakes with an aluminum T-Bar to act as stiftner and mini Keel. I think this will protect the boat from abrations due to beaching and keep the hull strong. I was wondering what did you use to keep it in place... rivets?, screws, nuts and bolts? Please let me know as I dont have an Pneumatic hammer for the solid aircraft grade rivets. anyone got a suggestions on how to keep the t-bar in place?
Post by: BIGMIKE on February 22, 2015, 08:47:54 AM
Post by: lokidog on February 22, 2015, 08:57:08 AM
Post by: jay.sharkbait on February 22, 2015, 09:07:34 AM
Looks good. I would buy a high quality marine grade caulk/sealer to put a bead around the outside edge of the pieces which would also seal in the rivets.
:yeah:
Or better maybe skim coat the mating surfaces with 5200 or 4200.
Post by: Special T on February 22, 2015, 09:15:06 AM
I think most of the rivets are the normal 2 piece pop rivets. Where the strakes and Keel attach at the cross frame those may be solid but i will double check. It WILL stiffen the boat up a bunch. Where the Keel its attached the cross frame is reinforced with some strapping. On my Keel There appears to be a price of round stock extruded on the end of the T. So i think the round stock is say 3/8" or 1/4".
Post by: lokidog on February 22, 2015, 10:39:33 AM
Looks good. I would buy a high quality marine grade caulk/sealer to put a bead around the outside edge of the pieces which would also seal in the rivets.
:yeah:
Or better maybe skim coat the mating surfaces with 5200 or 4200.
Good idea.
Post by: Special T on February 22, 2015, 10:51:03 AM
I think this is likely the best way to keep the majority of the water out.... It is a boat after all and a little water inside is likely no matter how much you seal it.
I had a John boat that i fixed up and used RV sealer on the inside. It worked great but it added so much weight to it it was a waste... I pretty much sold it for what i had in it. Yours is a small boat like mine. Done add too much extra weight. :twocents:
Post by: Westside88 on February 22, 2015, 11:02:41 AM
Post by: BIGMIKE on March 29, 2015, 10:54:46 PM
Post by: BIGMIKE on March 29, 2015, 10:56:08 PM
Post by: huntnphool on March 29, 2015, 11:52:46 PM
Post by: Special T on March 30, 2015, 07:08:24 AM
Post by: lokidog on March 30, 2015, 08:53:28 AM
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Post by: ridgefire on March 30, 2015, 06:17:48 PM
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on March 31, 2015, 12:12:44 PM
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Post by: Pinetar on April 02, 2015, 08:12:57 PM