Small boat...Big Problem (Project Complete)

[syoungs]

Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces?  The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.
Thanks, Loki for the adviceAfter cleaning and wire brusing the hull, I was relieved to find out that the the hull's condit n is fine. Now I just need to find cheap 90 degree and flat aluminum and marine rivets for a

The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself?     You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed.  Wish I had one....   

The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.

I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today.....  What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?

Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the  project.

Just so your not blindsided, or think the guy is pulling a fast one, expect whomever is doing the welding to also do his prep work, you doing the brunt of it is great, but he is going to spend some time on it most likely as well, aluminum is tricky to prep and weld correctly!

[lokidog]

I just painted mine with spray paint and it has held up well.  If you are doing bottom paint, make sure you put a good epoxy based primer on first and stay away from copper based bottom paint.

[L-ofalab]

I think lokidog has a solid plan. No welding on the existing boat. Do you know how to rivet a boat? Someone will have to insert the new rivet from below then hold it with a heavy bucking tool while you beat the rivet from the inside. I made a tool for an air hammer that did a great job. There will be many rivets because you have to replace every rivet that was in the old strakes. You will probably have to remove the seats then re rivet them back in. You shouldn't use pop-rivets for any part of the rebuild. You will have the best chance of it not leaking if you open each rivet hole to the next size larger and ream the hole for a tight fit. I have fixed 2 boats, both still leaked but not where my repairs were. Flex seal will stop most leaks.

[Rich_S]

Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the  project.

Welding ............... $50/hour, say 2 hours = $100
Materials .............. Aluminum stock ~$20
                            Rivets ~$5
                            Paint  ~$20
                            Sanding discs, masks, etc. ~$5

Approximate cost ... $150

Scrap value of boat ..~20

Total cost of repair ... ~$170

Here's one I sold for ~$150 :





I popped that dent out before I sold it using a rubber hammer. It was courtesy of a wind gust that blew it off the garage onto the grass. No leaks, no corrosion. The scaling on the wood seats was vinyl shelf liner that needed replacing.

If you want to rebuild it as a project, have fun. Economically it doesn't make much sense. Don't forget good PFD's!

[Special T]

Here are some pic of the reinforcement on the hull of my14'. The main keel is a pice of t stock about 1.5" and the side chines are angle 1.5x1.5"  this really made an otherwise light boat pretty tough. Ive hit more than a couple of gravel bars full boar and a few submerged logs. No damage other than some dents in the keel and a couple of destroyed props

[pjb3]

There are many other options, PM me

[jeepster]

Sell it and get a fiberglass boat

[rtspring]

It CAN be welded , one thing to make sure of is aluminum needs to be clean, use acetone or the likes and clean it, any welder worth his salt will make the welds. I literally welded on 100's of aluminum boats in the Navy! Saltwater sucks ... 

If you have no expeience with welding aluminum I would let a pro do it..  And please dont try to use the aluminum arc welding rods..   I welded for 20 years

[_TONY_]

Personally, I'd scrap that thing and start over with a different boat. But that's just me. I'm not a big fan of Franken boats... Even though it may be safe, I still wouldn't feel good about it in the back of my mind.

[BIGMIKE]

Here are some pic of the reinforcement on the hull of my14'. The main keel is a pice of t stock about 1.5" and the side chines are angle 1.5x1.5"  this really made an otherwise light boat pretty tough. Ive hit more than a couple of gravel bars full boar and a few submerged logs. No damage other than some dents in the keel and a couple of destroyed props

I like your idea, I was wondering what did you use as rivets? or nut and bolts to secure it in place.

[Special T]

I didnt do the work. I inherited the boat from my uncle who ran the Skagit river all the time. Its a purpose built boat. They are all rivets I didnt see a single bolt in the hull. there might have been one in the transom but i didint look that hard.

[BIGMIKE]

Here are some pic of the reinforcement on the hull of my14'. The main keel is a pice of t stock about 1.5" and the side chines are angle 1.5x1.5"  this really made an otherwise light boat pretty tough. Ive hit more than a couple of gravel bars full boar and a few submerged logs. No damage other than some dents in the keel and a couple of destroyed props

Special T,

I like what you did with your boat. I was thinking about replacing the Strakes with an aluminum T-Bar to act as stiftner and mini Keel. I think this will protect the boat from abrations due to beaching and keep the hull strong. I was wondering what did you use to keep it in place... rivets?, screws, nuts and bolts? Please let me know as I dont have an Pneumatic hammer for the solid aircraft grade rivets.  anyone got a suggestions on how to keep the t-bar in place?

[BIGMIKE]

Update: I found some 1.5x1.5x1/8 alluminum bars for the strake replacements. I cut them into 7 feet long sections and gave them a 120 degree angle on both ends. I am waiting for the solid rivets to arrive in the mail so I could tack it in place. I am hoping this works as a hull stiftner as well.

[lokidog]

Looks good.  I would buy a high quality marine grade caulk/sealer to put a bead around the outside edge of the pieces which would also seal in the rivets.

[jay.sharkbait]

Looks good.  I would buy a high quality marine grade caulk/sealer to put a bead around the outside edge of the pieces which would also seal in the rivets.

 

Or better maybe skim coat the mating surfaces with 5200 or 4200.