Small boat...Big Problem (Project Complete)

[BIGMIKE]

Hello,

I recently acquire a small 1996 14 foot V hull Sea Nymph (V1465TT) with a 18 HP Johnson Seahorse for crabbing. I presure washed the bottom today to remove the paint and see what condition the hull is in...The hull is in great shape but the two 7 foot long hull support is corroded . I was wondering what is the best way to repair it....or where to get a replacement, or just remove it all together and braze the rivet holes with aluminum rods from Harbor Freight. I dont know anyone that fabricates aluminum parts so Im asking your help if you know someone that can help me make some aluminum support so I can finish this project before fishing season starts. Any idea is welcome. Thanks.

[jay.sharkbait]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?

[Boss .300 winmag]

Never fear as seen on TV is here. 

http://www.asseenontv.com/flex-seal-clear-stops-leaks-fast-the-clear-alternative/detail.php?p=458384&v=household

[BIGMIKE]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?

Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?

[jay.sharkbait]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?

Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?

Good= Scrap value for aluminum is pretty good.

Bad= You have a out board that needs a new home.


Seriously, it looks like someone used a copper based antifoul paint. Those bottom strakes act as stiffeners, so they need to be replaced. I suspect that the hull skins are damaged below those strakes and re-riveting is going to be a nightmare.

Do the chines look bad as well?



 

[BIGMIKE]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?

Hit me with both. What's the good and bad news?

Good= Scrap value for aluminum is pretty good.

Bad= You have a out board that needs a new home.


Seriously, it looks like someone used a copper based antifoul paint. Those bottom strakes act as stiffeners, so they need to be replaced. I suspect that the hull skins are damaged below those strakes and re-riveting is going to be a nightmare.

Do the chines look bad as well?

Chines looked fine. It's just the bottom strakes. Do you know who can makes those? Or where to buy them?

[lokidog]

Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces?  The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.

The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself?     You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed.  Wish I had one....   

[wildmanoutdoors]

Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces?  The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.

The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself?     You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed.  Wish I had one....   

The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.

[Special T]

The angle iron doesnt have to be on the outside. you can reinforce it from the inside. they do help with tracking and you would likely need to rivet them and seal. I will try and take somem pics of the inside of my boat today.

[lokidog]

Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces?  The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.

The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself?     You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed.  Wish I had one....   

The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.

I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today.....  What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?

[BIGMIKE]

Couldn't you remove the existing scabs, clean it up, make sure there are no bad hull spots and then take a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum (1 1/8 X 1 1/8 and 1/8 inch thick) and weld it on in place of the existing pieces?  The forward end would have to be cut and bent into a point, but then you wouldn't need to have a piece custom made, just custom welded to the hull.
Thanks, Loki for the adviceAfter cleaning and wire brusing the hull, I was relieved to find out that the the hull's condit n is fine. Now I just need to find cheap 90 degree and flat aluminum and marine rivets for a

The cost to have someone do this might be offset by buying a TIG welder from Harbor Freight and doing it yourself?     You'd then be able to do other aluminum welding as needed.  Wish I had one....   

The angled aluminum is a great plan. That's all they are anyway.
Tig welding a hull as thin as a pop can is no job for a beginner. You will end up with big holes possibly. That boat might be scrap at this point if the hull skin is in the same shape.

I thought of that when I was trolling and trolling, and trolling today.....  What about riveting a flat strip to the hull, caulking/sealing it as well, and then welding the angle pieces to that?

Thanks Loki. I cleaned and grinded the hull today. Its intact and still very sturdy. I just need to braze a few pinholes and it shoul be ready tor the flat and 90 degree aluminum. I just need to find some for cheap. I also am looking for a welder that can weld the two pieces together. I actualy found someone that is charging 50 dollars per hour. I will prep everything so all I will be needing is the welding job that should not take more than an hour. You guys have any advice in what rivets to use?. Primer? Paint? I'll post some pics during the progress of the  project.

[Skillet]

Mike, I'd be really careful with the welding here.  These boats are typically skinned with a 5056 alloy, but 90% of the structural stuff is 6061 alloy.  6061 welds really well, but 5056 doesn't.  It usually has been cold rolled into sheet, and not heat treated.  Welding on it will anneal the 5056 and get really, really soft.  That metal has been made for riveting, not welding. 

That's not to say that a top-notch pro can't make it right for you, but ask a lot of questions.  You may decide welding isn't for you and go for an epoxy solution.  Just a thought-

[h2ofowlr]

The thin hull will become brittle where you try to weld it.  Any rough water and pounding on the water will probably crack the welds.  That hull looks shot from the pictures.  I wouldn't trust my life or others in that boat.

[jay.sharkbait]

The thin hull will become brittle where you try to weld it.  Any rough water and pounding on the water will probably crack the welds.  That hull looks shot from the pictures.  I wouldn't trust my life or others in that boat.

 

[lokidog]

No welding to the hull if the rivets a strip to it first. 

If you rivet the strip, then weld the angle iron, you might be able to seal the rivets inside, but if it does leak, you would be trapping water in there.  Probably not a big deal in a lake, but I wouldn't want saltwater trapped in there.

Be sure to use all aluminum rivets also.

If it is that bad, it might make a good planter for the front yard.