Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 07, 2015, 09:05:22 AM
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Post by: 92xj on May 07, 2015, 09:07:44 AM
Post by: rtspring on May 07, 2015, 09:08:17 AM
Or run it up to Coach's shop. automotive Inc.. Give him a call
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 09:17:53 AM
Post by: h20hunter on May 07, 2015, 09:20:16 AM
Post by: bobcat on May 07, 2015, 09:21:24 AM
Post by: grundy53 on May 07, 2015, 09:22:18 AM
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 09:29:15 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
See if it's an evap code. P0460 I think if I remember correctly. If it is, the likely part to fix it is about $40.00. A very common issue in our trucks. Evap vent valve. Just did one in mine...same year, make, model as you know.
I'd say number one reason for general check light with no runability issues is a bad gas cap.
If it's an evap code that could be....if it's a misfire code a gas cap won't help.
:)
Post by: Woodchuck on May 07, 2015, 09:31:34 AM
Post by: Crunchy on May 07, 2015, 09:32:06 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
See if it's an evap code. P0460 I think if I remember correctly. If it is, the likely part to fix it is about $40.00. A very common issue in our trucks. Evap vent valve. Just did one in mine...same year, make, model as you know.
I'd say number one reason for general check light with no runability issues is a bad gas cap.
If it's an evap code that could be....if it's a misfire code a gas cap won't help.
:)
Had the same code on my 04 Silverado. Easy fix
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 09:32:40 AM
Google --> 2002 Chevy Silverado p0460 ---> search...
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 09:33:24 AM
:yeah: Or a knock sensor code. :tup:
A gas cap will in fact not fix a knock sensor code.
:yike:
Forgot about those.
Post by: bobcat on May 07, 2015, 09:36:19 AM
Post by: h20hunter on May 07, 2015, 09:38:45 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on May 07, 2015, 09:40:59 AM
If it was me, and I didn't have direct access to an entire shop full of tools and technicians, I'd go to a parts store and have them read the code. Then I'd go to the trusty old internet. Find Google. Type in year make model and then the code and search. Odds are whatever it is will come up in the search. It's the best way to come up with a good guess. Keep in mind it's just a guess and may not fix your problem...but aside from paying a technician to diagnose the problem, it's an alright way to go.http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2002+Chevy+Silverado+P0460
Google --> 2002 Chevy Silverado p0460 ---> search...
Post by: Jaques Bonet on May 07, 2015, 09:58:32 AM
Post by: NRA4LIFE on May 07, 2015, 10:03:33 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on May 07, 2015, 10:04:49 AM
NINE CHANCES OUT TEN IT'S A EMISSION SENSOR,IF MEMORY SERVES ME RIGHT IT'S THE ONE CLOSEST TO YOU ENGINE ON EXHAUST PIPE OR THE ONE BY THE CATALYTIC COVERTER. THOSE 6.0 MOTORS ARE GOOD. GOOD LUCK10 out 10 times it is the emissions sensor or the 300+ other things that can set the light off. :tup:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 10:12:40 AM
Go to your local auto parts store and have them retrieve the code for you. Reply back here with the code and we'll see what we can do to help. The truth is there's a couple hundred different reasons that light could be on. All sorts of possibilities...
There's no such a part as an "emission sensor". There are multiple sensors that are emissions related, but not one called an emission sensor.
Post by: elkaholic123 on May 07, 2015, 10:15:49 AM
Post by: cbond3318 on May 07, 2015, 10:22:20 AM
With the code in hand, google is your friend or post on here like Jackelope said.
Post by: lokidog on May 07, 2015, 10:25:48 AM
Post by: mtbeav on May 07, 2015, 10:30:35 AM
small piece of black tape, no more annoying red light. :chuckle:
Post by: huntnphool on May 07, 2015, 10:47:58 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
Will be fine until your next emission test for licensing.
Post by: bobcat on May 07, 2015, 10:54:05 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
Will be fine until your next emission test for licensing.
We don't do emissions testing where I live. :IBCOOL:
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 11:12:49 AM
You could take a picture of your wife, poke holes in the eyes and place it over the MIL so at night you would have a eerie stare at you... :chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 11:18:07 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
Will be fine until your next emission test for licensing.
We don't do emissions testing where I live. :IBCOOL:
Same here. I just like to fix my truck when it's broken. 217k miles and going strong. Driving it east this weekend for about the 167th time since I've owned it.
Post by: bobcat on May 07, 2015, 11:28:25 AM
The light in my 2002 Chevy Silverado (5.3) has been on for about a year and a half. My father in law plugged his code reader into it last summer and reset it. It was off after that until the next time I drove my truck, and then it came back on, and has been on ever since. The truck runs fine, I assume I just may not be getting the best gas mileage.
Will be fine until your next emission test for licensing.
We don't do emissions testing where I live. :IBCOOL:
Same here. I just like to fix my truck when it's broken. 217k miles and going strong. Driving it east this weekend for about the 167th time since I've owned it.
I agree it's a good idea to fix things as they come up, it's just not been a priority for me since I rarely drive my truck anymore. I do try to drive it at least once every weekend, but usually I only put 5 to 10 miles on it at a time. Had the truck for almost 14 years now, and it's only got 140,000 miles.
Post by: Kittman on May 07, 2015, 11:39:42 AM
1016 N Mission St, Wenatchee, WA 98801
With a pen & paper handy:
There will be a plug about 2" wide under your steering wheel/column and this will not take but 3 minutes to get the code(s). Then turn ignition on but do not "Start" or turn over starter motor. After a few moments the diagnostic scan tool reader will spit out something like P 0XXX only with numbers, they can look up the numbers, or you can go Google, YouTube, etc. what the number means and what might be needed to repair. Do not be surprised if you get several different numbers. sometimes some codes are interrelated, and others may indicate separate issues.
Nothing scary to do..No cost. The actual repair...well that is a different matter though.
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 12:39:40 PM
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 12:45:02 PM
Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.What??? you mean you dont just plug the thingy in and it tells you whats wrong and needs to be replaced... :dunno: :chuckle:
Post by: Bean Counter on May 07, 2015, 12:50:21 PM
I have a simple fix
small piece of black tape, no more annoying red light. :chuckle:
You must be a medical doctor! :)
Post by: coachcw on May 07, 2015, 01:48:21 PM
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 07, 2015, 03:32:34 PM
Nock Nock-
Go to your local auto parts store and have them retrieve the code for you. Reply back here with the code and we'll see what we can do to help. The truth is there's a couple hundred different reasons that light could be on. All sorts of possibilities...
There's no such a part as an "emission sensor". There are multiple sensors that are emissions related, but not one called an emission sensor.
Pretty sure its on because of an exhaust leak. Odd thing is though, that the leak has been happening for a month or two and just now the light came on. In the past 2 months it has come on 2 other times. 1st was supposed gas cap issue. 2nd time was for a leaky seal in transmission which has been repaired. Maybe it is a totally different issue this time. So there really is no way to keep the light from reactivating once its cleared?
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 07, 2015, 03:34:18 PM
You are going to risk a $30,000+ piece of equipment to save some time and/or $100? :dunno:
The issue I have is ALOT more spendy than $100
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 03:36:56 PM
Nock Nock-
Go to your local auto parts store and have them retrieve the code for you. Reply back here with the code and we'll see what we can do to help. The truth is there's a couple hundred different reasons that light could be on. All sorts of possibilities...
There's no such a part as an "emission sensor". There are multiple sensors that are emissions related, but not one called an emission sensor.
Pretty sure its on because of an exhaust leak. Odd thing is though, that the leak has been happening for a month or two and just now the light came on. In the past 2 months it has come on 2 other times. 1st was supposed gas cap issue. 2nd time was for a leaky seal in transmission which has been repaired. Maybe it is a totally different issue this time. So there really is no way to keep the light from reactivating once its cleared?
Check engine light absolutely will not come on for a transmission fluid leak.
In order to make the light stay off, they need to fix the problem. It comes on because there is a malfunction.
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 03:37:18 PM
If the problem, or problems are repaired then the MIL will stay off when cleared until or if another problem arises, it is there to notify the driver of a problem...Nock Nock-
Go to your local auto parts store and have them retrieve the code for you. Reply back here with the code and we'll see what we can do to help. The truth is there's a couple hundred different reasons that light could be on. All sorts of possibilities...
There's no such a part as an "emission sensor". There are multiple sensors that are emissions related, but not one called an emission sensor.
Pretty sure its on because of an exhaust leak. Odd thing is though, that the leak has been happening for a month or two and just now the light came on. In the past 2 months it has come on 2 other times. 1st was supposed gas cap issue. 2nd time was for a leaky seal in transmission which has been repaired. Maybe it is a totally different issue this time. So there really is no way to keep the light from reactivating once its cleared?
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 07, 2015, 03:40:41 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 03:42:11 PM
If the problem, or problems are repaired then the MIL will stay off when cleared until or if another problem arises, it is there to notify the driver of a problem...Nock Nock-
Go to your local auto parts store and have them retrieve the code for you. Reply back here with the code and we'll see what we can do to help. The truth is there's a couple hundred different reasons that light could be on. All sorts of possibilities...
There's no such a part as an "emission sensor". There are multiple sensors that are emissions related, but not one called an emission sensor.
Pretty sure its on because of an exhaust leak. Odd thing is though, that the leak has been happening for a month or two and just now the light came on. In the past 2 months it has come on 2 other times. 1st was supposed gas cap issue. 2nd time was for a leaky seal in transmission which has been repaired. Maybe it is a totally different issue this time. So there really is no way to keep the light from reactivating once its cleared?
My bet is that the gas cap problem actually wasn't a gas cap problem. You took it in, there was an evap code, unable to reproduce the fault, and they told you maybe the gas cap was loose. Or maybe they told you it was a bad cap and replaced it.
That never works...the code reset and turned the light back on.
:dunno:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 03:43:09 PM
:yeah: I get that. Just curious if it is possible to clear a "particular" code so it does not turn the light on again....but the light will still come on again if another issue is detected.
When a problem happens, it sets a code. The code turns the light on. If the problem is not fixed, the code will continue to set and the light will continue to come on/stay on.
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 03:43:51 PM
*
Just an FYI for the people that say ignore it or cover it up, due know that if the light is on and another problem develops you will not be made aware of it and it could cause more problems down the road that may of been avoided.. :twocents:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 03:51:46 PM
The check engine light/MIL can come on for a transmission problem due to low fluid levels from a leak, but not for something leaking... ;)
*
Just an FYI for the people that say ignore it or cover it up, due know that if the light is on and another problem develops you will not be made aware of it and it could cause more problems down the road that may of been avoided.. :twocents:
Good point....
Post by: h20hunter on May 07, 2015, 03:56:58 PM
Easy as that.
:chuckle:
Post by: grundy53 on May 07, 2015, 04:01:21 PM
Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.Mine does. It told me that it was my number one spark plug that was causing the issue.
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 04:02:51 PM
Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.Mine does. It told me that it was my number one spark plug that was causing the issue.
#1 cylinder maybe, but not #1 spark plug. We run $10k scan tools that won't tell you it's a spark plug.
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 04:06:09 PM
Not correct, it told you that cylinder #1 was misfiring or had a misfire, not what part of the secondary ignition system was causing the misfire, code p0301 misfire cylinder #1 detected.Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.Mine does. It told me that it was my number one spark plug that was causing the issue.
Depending on the vehicle it could be many things that could cause it, spark plug yes, or ignition wire, ignition coil, distributor problem cap/rotor (if equipped), low compression, vacuum leak, injector issue, etc......
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 04:09:51 PM
Here is how I see most try and deal with this. Take it to the Schmucks....get your code, Google the heck out of it, read a few forums, call and chat with either Buckmark or Jackelope about what it could be, narrow them down to thier top three choices, grind them about the labor times and keep asking why so much, then, get back to the parts guys, have them read you the part numbers for previously mentioned three posbilites, then remember you need a pen, ask them to repeat the numbers 3 times because you aren't paying attention or have anything to wright on, then get back on google, look for the cheapest place in the galaxy to buy the part, install it yourself, find out it didn't fix the problem, call back, complain, demand free diag and wholesale on the parts.
Easy as that.
Dont forget to add coach to the mix, very good shop.
Yep grind away on labor times and even hour rate, heck it"s only the minimum i will accept, you are welcome to pay me more per hour......we even accept tips like homemade cookies :chuckle:
:chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 04:16:40 PM
Here is how I see most try and deal with this. Take it to the Schmucks....get your code, Google the heck out of it, read a few forums, call and chat with either Buckmark or Jackelope about what it could be, narrow them down to thier top three choices, grind them about the labor times and keep asking why so much, then, get back to the parts guys, have them read you the part numbers for previously mentioned three posbilites, then remember you need a pen, ask them to repeat the numbers 3 times because you aren't paying attention or have anything to wright on, then get back on google, look for the cheapest place in the galaxy to buy the part, install it yourself, find out it didn't fix the problem, call back, complain, demand free diag and wholesale on the parts.
Easy as that.
:chuckle:
Hahaha!!
That's awesome....
:chuckle:
Post by: Woodchuck on May 07, 2015, 04:20:56 PM
Post by: grundy53 on May 07, 2015, 04:24:22 PM
Not correct, it told you that cylinder #1 was misfiring or had a misfire, not what part of the secondary ignition system was causing the misfire, code p0301 misfire cylinder #1 detected.Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.Mine does. It told me that it was my number one spark plug that was causing the issue.
Depending on the vehicle it could be many things that could cause it, spark plug yes, or ignition wire, ignition coil, distributor problem cap/rotor (if equipped), low compression, vacuum leak, injector issue, etc......
Also it's good to note that the code reader is not going to tell you specifically what part is bad. It will tell you there is a misfire code but it won't tell you ... you have a bad spark plug... or something along those lines. Once you have the code you either actually diagnose the problem or shotgun/guess some parts at it.Mine does. It told me that it was my number one spark plug that was causing the issue.
#1 cylinder maybe, but not #1 spark plug. We run $10k scan tools that won't tell you it's a spark plug.
Yep, you guys are correct. Just went and looked at the code book that came with it and it said this "P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected". I guess I just assumed it was the spark plug. I guess I got lucky because it was :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:.
Post by: Buckmark on May 07, 2015, 04:34:38 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on May 07, 2015, 04:40:08 PM
Post by: timberghost72 on May 07, 2015, 07:46:58 PM
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 07, 2015, 08:07:50 PM
Post by: stevemiller on May 07, 2015, 08:59:44 PM
I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Post by: dewandgin on May 07, 2015, 09:42:02 PM
I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Yes and no. Some, very few , will clear when disconnecting the battery. OBDII latches codes and some codes can't be cleared without a code reader.
Post by: TheSkyBuster on May 07, 2015, 09:53:11 PM
OBDII code readers can be had for under $20 :dunno:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great, read and cancel codes, I keep one in each vehicle. The book that comes with the reader doesn't list every code, but Google does. :tup:
Post by: jackelope on May 07, 2015, 10:08:13 PM
Post by: Fl0und3rz on May 07, 2015, 10:17:14 PM
Here's one of the apps it works with.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dbluetooth+code+reader&pcampaignid=APPU_1_70VMVdjBMsWesAXdooHYBw
Those diagnostic dice remind me of a Chief on the boat. We called it shotgun troubleshooting, and it is a dead giveaway that you don't understand the system you are troubleshooting.
Post by: stevemiller on May 07, 2015, 10:18:09 PM
please name some,my suv to name one OBDII one of the most difficult to deal with even clears.I have worked on cars all sorts for years and havent had one not reset yet from unhooking battery for 1 min.I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Yes and no. Some, very few , will clear when disconnecting the battery. OBDII latches codes and some codes can't be cleared without a code reader.
Post by: huntnphool on May 07, 2015, 11:25:28 PM
please name some,my suv to name one OBDII one of the most difficult to deal with even clears.I have worked on cars all sorts for years and havent had one not reset yet from unhooking battery for 1 min.I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Yes and no. Some, very few , will clear when disconnecting the battery. OBDII latches codes and some codes can't be cleared without a code reader.
Lamborghini, Mercedes and Porsche!
Post by: stevemiller on May 07, 2015, 11:28:21 PM
Post by: dewandgin on May 08, 2015, 07:03:46 AM
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 07:51:26 AM
lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
Post by: coachcw on May 08, 2015, 08:26:27 AM
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 08, 2015, 11:40:37 AM
Evap issue. Everything I Google talks about the charcoal canister, solenoid, valve, etc. in the system. YET people say it could be the gas cap. :dunno: Going to try to do a home remedy/fix via google 1st then go from there.
PS. Tried to reset/turn off light by disconnecting battery like some said......Did not work, sorry, lights still on
Different Question
Can a exhaust leak near the engine make the light come on/send a code?
Post by: cbond3318 on May 08, 2015, 11:50:08 AM
I read about smoke testing the lines for leaks while on my adventure.
I'd work the easy stuff first, gas cap, visible hoses etc.... :twocents:
Post by: baker5150 on May 08, 2015, 11:52:09 AM
Worked on my wifes Audi this way, light came back on a few weeks later thou.
But Audi lights come on when the washer fluid gets low. :bash:
Post by: BULLBLASTER on May 08, 2015, 11:56:19 AM
So I got it checked...p0446,do you top off the gas tank whe. You fill up? I have a 2008 5.3 and had to do the solenoid because i used to top off the gas tank... :bash: :chuckle:
Evap issue. Everything I Google talks about the charcoal canister, solenoid, valve, etc. in the system. YET people say it could be the gas cap. :dunno: Going to try to do a home remedy/fix via google 1st then go from there.
PS. Tried to reset/turn off light by disconnecting battery like some said......Did not work, sorry, lights still on
Different Question
Can a exhaust leak near the engine make the light come on/send a code?
Post by: NOCK NOCK on May 08, 2015, 12:00:36 PM
Don't you need to disconnect the battery then touch the + and - wires together? :dunno:
Worked on my wifes Audi this way, light came back on a few weeks later thou.
But Audi lights come on when the washer fluid gets low. :bash:
with the battery gone= no power in the system...what good would touching 2 wires together do?
Yes Bullblaster sometimes I do top it off pretty full
Post by: baker5150 on May 08, 2015, 12:02:46 PM
Don't you need to disconnect the battery then touch the + and - wires together? :dunno:
Worked on my wifes Audi this way, light came back on a few weeks later thou.
But Audi lights come on when the washer fluid gets low. :bash:
with the battery gone= no power in the system...what good would touching 2 wires together do?
I was told, and it makes sense, that the computer or other parts of the vehicle have power storage for memory. Like a capacitor. By touching the 2 wires it drains the storage which erases the memory.
Maybe one of the techs knows.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 12:17:32 PM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on May 08, 2015, 12:19:48 PM
i bet topping off is what ruined the evap solenoid... thats what happened to mine.Don't you need to disconnect the battery then touch the + and - wires together? :dunno:
Worked on my wifes Audi this way, light came back on a few weeks later thou.
But Audi lights come on when the washer fluid gets low. :bash:
with the battery gone= no power in the system...what good would touching 2 wires together do?
Yes Bullblaster sometimes I do top it off pretty full
Post by: BULLBLASTER on May 08, 2015, 12:22:57 PM
a capacitor will discharge itself anyways. It only stores power if power is going to it. Then it doscharges for a time till its used up.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 12:36:32 PM
I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
Post by: baker5150 on May 08, 2015, 12:36:35 PM
Touching the two wires together only works if you do it while standing on your head amd rubbing your tummy and humming...
a capacitor will discharge itself anyways. It only stores power if power is going to it. Then it doscharges for a time till its used up.
Right, but some caps can hold power for hours.
We use one that holds full range for up to 4 hours, We have to discharge the unit before doing any maintenance or we get a little tickle.
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 12:54:15 PM
Don't you need to disconnect the battery then touch the + and - wires together? :dunno:
Worked on my wifes Audi this way, light came back on a few weeks later thou.
But Audi lights come on when the washer fluid gets low. :bash:
with the battery gone= no power in the system...what good would touching 2 wires together do?
I was told, and it makes sense, that the computer or other parts of the vehicle have power storage for memory. Like a capacitor. By touching the 2 wires it drains the storage which erases the memory.
Maybe one of the techs knows.
:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.
Oh man....stevemiller...you should take a moment and step away from this thread. You're spouting off incorrect nonsense then you say the auto techs who are commenting are only book smart? Get real. Do us all a favor and walk away.
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 12:56:35 PM
I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
By the time you leave your battery disconnected for 3 hours in a feeble attempt to clear codes you could've driven to O'Reilly's 16 times and had them clear the code for you.
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 01:03:00 PM
I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
1 minute or 3 hours....same difference.
Post by: Woodchuck on May 08, 2015, 01:04:11 PM
:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.If anyone here wonders why people that work in the auto repair business are not super eager to come out with that or offer advice, this would be why.
Woodblock out. :tup:
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 01:05:45 PM
:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.If anyone here wonders why people that work in the auto repair business are not super eager to come out with that or offer advice, this would be why.
Woodblock out. :tup:
Well said.
:bash:
Post by: cbond3318 on May 08, 2015, 01:21:05 PM
I have all the respect for honest mechanics/ technicians that make a living at their craft. I could NOT do it, I can hold my own and fix what is broke only out of necessity but let me tell you it is a PAINFUL process at best.
:tup:
Now my next mission is an ABS light that is 2 years old :chuckle:
Post by: Kittman on May 08, 2015, 01:52:18 PM
So I got it checked...p0446,
Evap issue. Everything I Google talks about the charcoal canister, solenoid, valve, etc. in the system. YET people say it could be the gas cap. :dunno: Going to try to do a home remedy/fix via google 1st then go from there.
PS. Tried to reset/turn off light by disconnecting battery like some said......Did not work, sorry, lights still on
Different Question
Can a exhaust leak near the engine make the light come on/send a code?
Below is a TSB link that may prove to be useful for the code you found:
http://engine-codes.com/uploads/gmc/2101090.pdf
Post by: huntnphool on May 08, 2015, 01:55:24 PM
I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again.Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
Once again, not on all vehicles!
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 02:14:23 PM
So I got it checked...p0446,
Evap issue. Everything I Google talks about the charcoal canister, solenoid, valve, etc. in the system. YET people say it could be the gas cap. :dunno: Going to try to do a home remedy/fix via google 1st then go from there.
PS. Tried to reset/turn off light by disconnecting battery like some said......Did not work, sorry, lights still on
Different Question
Can a exhaust leak near the engine make the light come on/send a code?
Below is a TSB link that may prove to be useful for the code you found:
http://engine-codes.com/uploads/gmc/2101090.pdf
Bingo...Well done.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 03:25:45 PM
Once again you dont read thoroughly enough to respond.I said if you fix it yourself which would probably take enough time to reset you wont need to go back again to have it cleared.SO YOU BACK AWAY AND STOP SPOUTING nonsense.I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
By the time you leave your battery disconnected for 3 hours in a feeble attempt to clear codes you could've driven to O'Reilly's 16 times and had them clear the code for you.
Post by: h20hunter on May 08, 2015, 03:38:19 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 03:42:36 PM
Once again you dont read thoroughly enough to respond.I said if you fix it yourself which would probably take enough time to reset you wont need to go back again to have it cleared.SO YOU BACK AWAY AND STOP SPOUTING nonsense.I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
By the time you leave your battery disconnected for 3 hours in a feeble attempt to clear codes you could've driven to O'Reilly's 16 times and had them clear the code for you.
It took me 10 minutes to replace the evap purge valve that had my check engine light turned on.
Post by: Woodchuck on May 08, 2015, 03:44:58 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 03:45:50 PM
Did your light magically clear?
Mine? It did when I cleared it with a scan tool. You know...the appropriate tool for the job...
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 03:46:21 PM
Why did you edit it? I thought you were onto something when you put MOD in big bold letters? Really told him!no it was supposed to be bud not model lol i thought i fixed it but it didnt, oh well
Post by: Woodchuck on May 08, 2015, 03:47:15 PM
Now you are just spouting nonsense...Did your light magically clear?
Mine? It did when I cleared it with a scan tool. You know...the appropriate tool for the job...
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 03:47:28 PM
Once again you dont read thoroughly enough to respond.I said if you fix it yourself which would probably take enough time to reset you wont need to go back again to have it cleared.SO YOU BACK AWAY AND STOP SPOUTING nonsense.I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
By the time you leave your battery disconnected for 3 hours in a feeble attempt to clear codes you could've driven to O'Reilly's 16 times and had them clear the code for you.
The simple fact of the matter is that this doesn't work on everything all the time, stevemiller. It's ok to admit when you are wrong.
Better that than what's happening now.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 03:47:32 PM
Would it have cleared by itself with the battery undone? YESDid your light magically clear?
Mine? It did when I cleared it with a scan tool. You know...the appropriate tool for the job...
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 03:48:10 PM
I can Have before can you?Once again you dont read thoroughly enough to respond.I said if you fix it yourself which would probably take enough time to reset you wont need to go back again to have it cleared.SO YOU BACK AWAY AND STOP SPOUTING nonsense.I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
By the time you leave your battery disconnected for 3 hours in a feeble attempt to clear codes you could've driven to O'Reilly's 16 times and had them clear the code for you.
The simple fact of the matter is that this doesn't work on everything all the time, stevemiller. It's ok to admit when you are wrong.
Better that than what's happening now.
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 03:50:07 PM
Post by: coachcw on May 08, 2015, 03:50:33 PM
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 03:53:30 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on May 08, 2015, 03:56:48 PM
Post by: jackelope on May 08, 2015, 03:58:22 PM
It's got nothing to do with the good ole boy club. It's got to do with being ok when you're wrong, then insulting a bunch of techs by saying they are only book smart. I was done till you said the auto techs trying to help this guy out with his problem were only book smart. At that point, you're insulting a bunch of folks who are trying to help. If you don't know what the heck you're talking about, you should just defer to something else rather than attempt to insult people.
:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.
This will be my last post in this thread. I'd recommend the same for you, stevemiller.
Post by: h20hunter on May 08, 2015, 03:58:47 PM
Post by: grundy53 on May 08, 2015, 04:05:04 PM
I'm sure there are many more people that appreciate your guy's help then those that want to hassle you. I think information is always a positive thing.:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.If anyone here wonders why people that work in the auto repair business are not super eager to come out with that or offer advice, this would be why.
Woodblock out. :tup:
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:08:08 PM
A code can come up on a number of things,Loose gas cap lol,Bad gas can cause codes to come up,Vacume leaks are a huge reason for a number of codes.Me personally if a code comes up on my car i take it to autozone they tell me what the code is i fix it,I reset the code im done.They just came out with these readers for my car last year along with the repair manual,before that I had to do it all the hard way or pay a tech to do it for me NO THANKS.Been turning wrenches for 60 plus years on my own and others vehicles.new and old.Import and domestic so take my advice or not no matter to me.
Post by: Buckmark on May 08, 2015, 04:16:21 PM
Just an FYI a hard fault will not clear no matter how long you leave a battery disconnected, or touch wires together (love that, don't let the smoke out) or even with a scan tool regardless if it is 29.95 special glove box one or a 10k scanner that reads live data etc......it may clear on the dash as you command it but as soon as you start the vehicle, dont even have to drive it it will come back (hard fault). ( in know, whats a hard fault?)
Oh and BTW by clearing codes etc at home you also may be hindering a tech if you need thier book smarts to help diagnose the problem due to you clearing freeze frame data....but hey what do we know anyways....
Coach is right in the ball park, those trucks or near that year (sorry i don't have my book in front of me :rolleyes:) have a TSB for an updated evap purge valve and a relocate proceedure...
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:17:00 PM
Wow this went side ways, its funny how people who do not work day in and day out for years and years in a trade comment about how we are wrong....Who said I didnt work day in and day out.For all you know I own my own shop.Ive worked on car lot cars for around 20 years thank you.
Just an FYI a hard fault will not clear no matter how long you leave a battery disconnected, or touch wires together (love that, don't let the smoke out) or even with a scan tool regardless if it is 29.95 special glove box one or a 10 scanner that reads live data etc......it may clear on the dash as you command it but as soon as you start the vehicle, dont even have to drive it it will come back (hard fault). ( in know, whats a hard fault?)
Oh and BTW by clearing codes etc at home you also may be hindering a tech if you need thier book smarts to help diagnose the problem due to you clearing freeze frame data....but hey what do we know anyways....
Coach is right in the ball park, those trucks or near that year (sorry i don't have my book in front of me :rolleyes:) have a TSB for an updated evap purge valve and a relocate proceedure...
Post by: huntnphool on May 08, 2015, 04:20:53 PM
The good ole boy club on this forum is getting ridiculous.If someone dont hunt with you they are wrong in all their opinions right.,I see that with a few on here now oh well.I will probably get another warning from a mod because someone wants to poke at another member of the forum thats not part of the club.(H2OHUNTER).Why is it that some people can say anything to others about anything on this forum but if you say something to one in the club you get a warning?
In this case Steve you are dead wrong......Guaranteed!
I just went into my garage and hooked a battery back up in one of my cars that's been sitting unhooked for a week. Fired up the car and the right bank check engine light is still on, code still reads on my scanner as well........just a FYI! ;)
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:21:16 PM
Wow this went side ways, its funny how people who do not work day in and day out for years and years in a trade comment about how we are wrong....I said exactly this earlier about them not being able to get them.Now back to the topic,What do you mean the techs cant get them If I unhook the battery?Are you now saying that yes unhooking the battery clears the codes.Hard codes are a diff. subject.
Just an FYI a hard fault will not clear no matter how long you leave a battery disconnected, or touch wires together (love that, don't let the smoke out) or even with a scan tool regardless if it is 29.95 special glove box one or a 10k scanner that reads live data etc......it may clear on the dash as you command it but as soon as you start the vehicle, dont even have to drive it it will come back (hard fault). ( in know, whats a hard fault?)
Oh and BTW by clearing codes etc at home you also may be hindering a tech if you need thier book smarts to help diagnose the problem due to you clearing freeze frame data....but hey what do we know anyways....
Coach is right in the ball park, those trucks or near that year (sorry i don't have my book in front of me :rolleyes:) have a TSB for an updated evap purge valve and a relocate proceedure...
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:22:07 PM
Because you started it and the problem still exists :bash:The good ole boy club on this forum is getting ridiculous.If someone dont hunt with you they are wrong in all their opinions right.,I see that with a few on here now oh well.I will probably get another warning from a mod because someone wants to poke at another member of the forum thats not part of the club.(H2OHUNTER).Why is it that some people can say anything to others about anything on this forum but if you say something to one in the club you get a warning?
In this case Steve you are dead wrong......Guaranteed!
I just went into my garage and hooked a battery back up in one of my cars that's been sitting unhooked for a week. Fired up the car and the right bank check engine light is still on, code still reads on my scanner as well........just a FYI! ;)
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:24:00 PM
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:25:58 PM
MY FIRST POST IN THIS THREADI am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:27:37 PM
My second (only thing changed was my type of vehicle)please name some,my suv to name one OBDII one of the most difficult to deal with even clears.I have worked on cars all sorts for years and havent had one not reset yet from unhooking battery for 1 min.I am not much of a gear head. I have a 2007 Chevy 2500 6 litre gasoline truck. Is there any way to reset or disable the check engine light without taking it to a professional? I have heard about some kind of reader thing that you plug in and it tells you why the light is on/ gives you a code. :dunno:To simply answer the question YES,you can by yourself reset the computer takes 1 min. UNHOOK BATTERY,leave off 1 min. codes are all clear,UNTIL YOU RUN IT AGAIN LONG ENOUGH THAT IT GOES OFF AGAIN. lol.If you fix the problem yourself unplug battery 1 min. and drive,if you did the right stuff your done.
Like I said, don't know much about this kind a thing, If I need to buy the reader thing(or something else) what is it that I would need to buy?
Thanks all.
Yes and no. Some, very few , will clear when disconnecting the battery. OBDII latches codes and some codes can't be cleared without a code reader.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:28:30 PM
lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lolMy 3rd HMMMM what have I said so far that was against the rules?
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:30:23 PM
:yeah: I doubt it they seem to be book smart only lol.4th. no names not all techs are members of this forum and I dont even know who is or is not a tech on this site.
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:32:10 PM
Next,HMMM I am starting to see who is arguing.I usually tell people that during a discussion the party that is wrong is the only one arguing. :chuckle:I can guarantee you and anyone else that wants truth that if you unhook all batteries on all vehicles for a period of time at most 3 hours all codes will be gone and a service tech will not be able to pull any codes from the vehicle until they trip again. also I said it will only be temp before it comes on again if its not fixed. But if you fix the problem yourself at home in your driveway and the battery is unplugged the entire time and the vehicle is fixed it does not NEED TO BE CLEARED BY A DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. Guaranteed.lol :yeah: For 300k 400k Better not ever be an engine light lol
I can guarantee you from 18 years in the car fixin' business that there are lots of cars that won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery.
All that is pointless anyway, because if all you're doing is clearing the code and not fixing the problem, 98% of the time the light is going to come back on anyway. On the 2% that don't come back on, the light would have gone off on it's own eventually.
Post by: Woodchuck on May 08, 2015, 04:35:50 PM
Post by: Buckmark on May 08, 2015, 04:36:30 PM
First off, you are not a tech, maybe some car lot wrench but in no way a tech with any experience or knowledge based on your posts.Wow this went side ways, its funny how people who do not work day in and day out for years and years in a trade comment about how we are wrong....I said exactly this earlier about them not being able to get them.Now back to the topic,What do you mean the techs cant get them If I unhook the battery?Are you now saying that yes unhooking the battery clears the codes.Hard codes are a diff. subject.
Just an FYI a hard fault will not clear no matter how long you leave a battery disconnected, or touch wires together (love that, don't let the smoke out) or even with a scan tool regardless if it is 29.95 special glove box one or a 10k scanner that reads live data etc......it may clear on the dash as you command it but as soon as you start the vehicle, dont even have to drive it it will come back (hard fault). ( in know, whats a hard fault?)
Oh and BTW by clearing codes etc at home you also may be hindering a tech if you need thier book smarts to help diagnose the problem due to you clearing freeze frame data....but hey what do we know anyways....
Coach is right in the ball park, those trucks or near that year (sorry i don't have my book in front of me :rolleyes:) have a TSB for an updated evap purge valve and a relocate proceedure...
Second off as has been stated some vehicles will clear MIL (you know what that is right?) with battery power interrupted, and some may not, some need to wait for certain modules to go to sleep (am i losing you?) i never said that disconnecting a battery wont clear faults, but not every vehicle will clear....What i said was by clearing a fault by whatever means (power interruption or by a forced clear with a scan tool) you are also erasing freeze frame data that can be valuable to techs in diagnosing a problem...you do know what freeze frame data is?
Post by: stevemiller on May 08, 2015, 04:44:56 PM
And the last 8 posts are you. :bash:You caught that huh woodblock?
Post by: grundy53 on May 08, 2015, 04:46:40 PM