Post by: roy...s on October 11, 2015, 09:38:55 PM
That's when the real adventure started.
First issue...
Took it to the range immediately after getting my mitts on it, cleaned everything per factory manual. Capped, pulled the trigger...No discharge. Pulled the hammer back, squeezed the trigger, bang. The thing drove tacks, but the hammer wouldn't discharge the cap almost 50 percent of the time on the first squeeze. However, it always shot the second time. I came home from the range knowing I would kill what I was shooting at, as long as the darn thing would fire, or my elk would allow me two pulls of the trigger.
Second issue...
After a long evening at the range....time to clean. I read the manual and clean everything per spec. The manual states "remove firing pin bushing with a SCREWDRIVER". Well, once I start looking at the thing, I quickly realize no "SCREWDRIVER" will remove the bushing. It takes a specialty tool that CVA didn't bother to provide with the rifle. The manual continues with wonderful warnings of how the firing pin will not function without proper cleaning after "every shooting session".
I'm sitting there thinking the day prior to leaving for elk camp "Thanks CVA, now I'm even more uncertain if my rifle will shoot, if I get an animal in the sights"
After a long night, I called CVA at 0500 local and was able to get a hold of a customer rep. I shared my concerns with the two issues. He stated the no discharge with the western state legal breach plugs was a known issue and would gladly send me a replacement breach plug. They had found the original plugs were to soft and the new ones, were made of a harder material. That was nice, although didn't help for my upcoming hunt. Then he goes on to tell me the tool for the firing pin bushing was a specialty tool, or I could grind a screw driver to fit. When I asked why the owners manual would state "use a screwdriver", he danced around the question and stated I could buy it from Brownells, or make my own, like he does. He does state my firing pin will be good for the hunt but clean it as soon as I get back.
With high hopes, and higher concerns I clean everything as well as possible and head off for elk camp.
Now the third issue....
I get home from an uneventful hunt and it's time to clean again. Imagine my disappointment, when I clean the frame behind the breach plug and this Nitrite coating is flaking off. I paid an extra 100 bucks over plain stainless the coating didn't even last two weeks. I shot a couple rounds off during camp but cleaned it every time.
And then the fourth issue and final straw...
During my cleaning I look at the frame and where the barrel hinges on the frame I notice what looks like a scratch in the coating. I first think it's a continuation of the coating issue initially. Then, upon deeper inspection, I notice the thing is actually cracked. It's around an inch in length and would be covered by the forstock. I'm lucky the thing didn't come apart in my hands.
I've attached pictures that shows the issues and would encourage all CVA owners to look their guns over very well. I'll be calling CVA in the morning and giving them a chance to make it right. I'll be expecting a complete new rifle at a minimum. However, I'm so pissed, I just prefer to get my money back. I don't usually take to the internet to vent, but wanted my fellow hunters to especially know about the frame failure.
Post by: MountainDevil54 on October 12, 2015, 12:48:22 AM
As for the special tool to remove the firing pin, pull back trigger and with the screw driver, push forward and the pin should move out of the way, allowing the screw driver access to remove the bushing.
Secondly, nitride is NOT a sprayed on finish. Your frame is a black paint and will come off inside of the action from the musket cap/primer blow by.
Even the stainless steel model uses an alloy frame with a silver paint.
Not sure what happened to your other rifle but it sounds like luck is not with you this year :o
Call CVA and ask to speak with Mark Hendricks.
Post by: andersonjk4 on October 12, 2015, 10:00:51 AM
no clue what that is on the frame as the picture is so tiny.
As for the special tool to remove the firing pin, pull back trigger and with the screw driver, push forward and the pin should move out of the way, allowing the screw driver access to remove the bushing.
Secondly, nitride is NOT a sprayed on finish. Your frame is a black paint and will come off inside of the action from the musket cap/primer blow by.
Even the stainless steel model uses an alloy frame with a silver paint.
Not sure what happened to your other rifle but it sounds like luck is not with you this year :o
Call CVA and ask to speak with Mark Hendricks.
:yeah:
I have always used a screwdriver to remove the bushing. The firing pin is pushed forward by a spring, so as Mtndevil said, all you have to do is push with the screwdriver and the pin slides back allowing you to slip the screwdriver in the slot.
I own an Accura V2 as well and have battled the cap issue like most have, but the rifle is so comfortable to shoot and so dang accurate that I have dealt with it, hoping CVA would eventually find the solution. I did some load testing last weekend with 250 grn barnes TMZ (with replacement yellow Harvester Crush Rib sabots) and was shooting 3/4" groups at 50 yards and 1 3/4" groups at 100 yards with a scope.