Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Scopes and Optics => Topic started by: frazierw on February 05, 2016, 10:18:52 AM
-
I picked up a Savage LRH .300 Win Mag from a member on here. (Thank Bango) now im in the market for a scope. I have been eyeing the NF 5-25x56. Anyone have this scope and like it? I've asked a few people who have posted about it before, but no one has replied. Thanks for your input and advice!
-
I don't own one yet, but I have shot with one and it worked extremely well, I liked it. It was on a rifle set up for long range shooting, but I don't think it would be a good application for closer range shooting. I will probably own one some day!
-
My only hesitation would be how good of a cheek weld you can get with a 56mm objective on a kicker. Unless of course it has an adjustable comb stock. Then it becomes moot.
-
I don't own one but from what I know about them, you can't do better than Nightforce, as long as you can afford it!
-
My only hesitation would be how good of a cheek weld you can get with a 56mm objective on a kicker. Unless of course it has an adjustable comb stock. Then it becomes moot.
the gun does have an accustock, so i think i will be ok in that department.
-
The Nightforce stuff is pretty awesome. Don't look at it unless you are seriously considering it though, otherwise it might haunt you.
-
The Nightforce stuff is pretty awesome. Don't look at it unless you are seriously considering it though, otherwise it might haunt you.
Isn't that the trueth.. I try not to look through anything that is better than mine but did it last weekend and now I need a better scope... From what I have read they are awesome scopes and very well built..
-
The Nightforce stuff is pretty awesome. Don't look at it unless you are seriously considering it though, otherwise it might haunt you.
Isn't that the trueth.. I try not to look through anything that is better than mine but did it last weekend and now I need a better scope... From what I have read they are awesome scopes and very well built..
Just sell your current scope for 150% of MSRP and you are good to go
-
I was choosing between the nf shv and the leupold mark 4 on my lrh in 6.5-284. I ended up with mark 4 because I got a great deal on it. Which nf are you looking into? I think the 5-25 is the atacr? I haven't handled or used one of those but I think they are big and heavy which may not matter to you. Decide what you want in a gun before choosing glass. Guns can get heavy quick. I learned that with my 300 rum that now tips the scales at 14+ lb.
with this 6.5-284 I wanted a more pack able gun and am right at 10-10.3 lb.
I don't think you can go wrong with a top shelf scope wether it be from Leupold, vortex, nf, or other brands. All in what you want also. Is zero stop a must? Etc.
-
I was choosing between the nf shv and the leupold mark 4 on my lrh in 6.5-284. I ended up with mark 4 because I got a great deal on it. Which nf are you looking into? I think the 5-25 is the atacr? I haven't handled or used one of those but I think they are big and heavy which may not matter to you. Decide what you want in a gun before choosing glass. Guns can get heavy quick. I learned that with my 300 rum that now tips the scales at 14+ lb.
with this 6.5-284 I wanted a more pack able gun and am right at 10-10.3 lb.
I don't think you can go wrong with a top shelf scope wether it be from Leupold, vortex, nf, or other brands. All in what you want also. Is zero stop a must? Etc.
http://nightforceoptics.com/shv/5-20%C3%9756
this is the scope i was looking at
-
I was choosing between the nf shv and the leupold mark 4 on my lrh in 6.5-284. I ended up with mark 4 because I got a great deal on it. Which nf are you looking into? I think the 5-25 is the atacr? I haven't handled or used one of those but I think they are big and heavy which may not matter to you. Decide what you want in a gun before choosing glass. Guns can get heavy quick. I learned that with my 300 rum that now tips the scales at 14+ lb.
with this 6.5-284 I wanted a more pack able gun and am right at 10-10.3 lb.
I don't think you can go wrong with a top shelf scope wether it be from Leupold, vortex, nf, or other brands. All in what you want also. Is zero stop a must? Etc.
http://nightforceoptics.com/shv/5-20%C3%9756
this is the scope i was looking at
thats exactly the one I was lookin at but got a better deal on the leuppy.
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
-
If you're not familiar, do a little research on the Sightron SIII. A few years ago, after owning my first couple Sightrons I sold my 6 or 7 Nightforces and replaced them with SIIIs. IMO you get 97% of the performance for ~50% of the cost. Excellent glass, excellent tracking, and a GREAT value. I'm a big fan of the LRMOA reticle. :twocents:
-
You could also look at the SWFA:
http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-HD-5-20x50-Tactical-30mm-Riflescope-P51653.aspx
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
Not in my experience, which I admit is limited. But I did put a 6-24 on a big recoiling rifle once and I always torque the hardware to spec. I ended up using Scotch Coat, which is something Ross Sefreid reccomended to me at the SHOT Show and that worked, but up til then the scope was slipping under recoil. This exercise was only done to shoot a buddy's 300 Win Mag at 600 or so yards for fun and it was right before the SHOT Show that we were messing with it by chance.
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
Not in my experience, which I admit is limited. But I did put a 6-24 on a big recoiling rifle once and I always torque the hardware to spec. I ended up using Scotch Coat, which is something Ross Sefreid reccomended to me at the SHOT Show and that worked, but up til then the scope was slipping under recoil. This exercise was only done to shoot a buddy's 300 Win Mag at 600 or so yards for fun and it was right before the SHOT Show that we were messing with it by chance.
ive had my razor hd on my 300 rum for close to 100 rounds now with no movement. Before that it was a 6-24 pst. I even put that pst on my 375 hh for load development with no movement. Rings have been Burris xtr, warne maxima, and vortex pmr
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
Not in my experience, which I admit is limited. But I did put a 6-24 on a big recoiling rifle once and I always torque the hardware to spec. I ended up using Scotch Coat, which is something Ross Sefreid reccomended to me at the SHOT Show and that worked, but up til then the scope was slipping under recoil. This exercise was only done to shoot a buddy's 300 Win Mag at 600 or so yards for fun and it was right before the SHOT Show that we were messing with it by chance.
ive had my razor hd on my 300 rum for close to 100 rounds now with no movement. Before that it was a 6-24 pst. I even put that pst on my 375 hh for load development with no movement. Rings have been Burris xtr, warne maxima, and vortex pmr
We used Redfields or Burris Zee (not the Signature Zee), just wanted to give the guy a heads up and not have him struggle through what we did.
-
Ziess HD ! 3-15 or 5x25
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
Not in my experience, which I admit is limited. But I did put a 6-24 on a big recoiling rifle once and I always torque the hardware to spec. I ended up using Scotch Coat, which is something Ross Sefreid reccomended to me at the SHOT Show and that worked, but up til then the scope was slipping under recoil. This exercise was only done to shoot a buddy's 300 Win Mag at 600 or so yards for fun and it was right before the SHOT Show that we were messing with it by chance.
ive had my razor hd on my 300 rum for close to 100 rounds now with no movement. Before that it was a 6-24 pst. I even put that pst on my 375 hh for load development with no movement. Rings have been Burris xtr, warne maxima, and vortex pmr
We used Redfields or Burris Zee (not the Signature Zee), just wanted to give the guy a heads up and not have him struggle through what we did.
I appreciate the advice. My knowledge of the mounting process is definitely limited, but i dont plan on skimping on the rings. the gun does have a 20 MOA weaver rail on it, which i'm sure will help in that department.
-
Ziess HD ! 3-15 or 5x25
I was REALLY liking those scopes at first, but the lack of adjustment due to the 1' tube has kind of steered me away from them. The glass on those Zeiss scopes sure are clear though.
I should also clarify i want the scope to have a very basic reticle, not looking to do holdover shots.
-
If you do not have experience mounting that heavy of a scope on a rifle with a lot of potential for severe recoil...... be sure to research what it takes to keep it lfrom slipping in the rings.
Like torquing them to proper specs?
Just follow the directions on the package and you'll be fine.
Not in my experience, which I admit is limited. But I did put a 6-24 on a big recoiling rifle once and I always torque the hardware to spec. I ended up using Scotch Coat, which is something Ross Sefreid reccomended to me at the SHOT Show and that worked, but up til then the scope was slipping under recoil. This exercise was only done to shoot a buddy's 300 Win Mag at 600 or so yards for fun and it was right before the SHOT Show that we were messing with it by chance.
ive had my razor hd on my 300 rum for close to 100 rounds now with no movement. Before that it was a 6-24 pst. I even put that pst on my 375 hh for load development with no movement. Rings have been Burris xtr, warne maxima, and vortex pmr
We used Redfields or Burris Zee (not the Signature Zee), just wanted to give the guy a heads up and not have him struggle through what we did.
I appreciate the advice. My knowledge of the mounting process is definitely limited, but i dont plan on skimping on the rings. the gun does have a 20 MOA weaver rail on it, which i'm sure will help in that department.
Burris Signature Zees will grip the scope, any scope, plenty tight enough and they are inexpensive.
-
With a rail you can really use any of the tactical style rings. I really like the warne maxima steel rings. They are solid and lightweight.
As for the reticle I would reccomend the moar reticle in the nf as it is not too busy and can only benefit you.
True moa reticles are a god send. Unless your a mil guy.... Then your beyond help :chuckle:
-
Lap your rings, a little blue lock tite, and tighten to specs and you will be fine. What kind of ranges are you wanting to shoot? Can't go wrong with Zeiss, NF, Leupold, Sightron, or any other top shelf glass in my opinion. Comes down to what features and specs you want.
-
With a rail you can really use any of the tactical style rings. I really like the warne maxima steel rings. They are solid and lightweight.
As for the reticle I would reccomend the moar reticle in the nf as it is not too busy and can only benefit you.
True moa reticles are a god send. Unless your a mil guy.... Then your beyond help :chuckle:
A MOA reticle and having a MOA reticle in my Razor 85 30WA eyepiece made short work of dealing with shifting winds and getting on target with rockchucks. No fuss, no muss with dialing anything, just count dots and hold off on a second shot. Really makes it nice when targets are few and far between, which many of the colonies I shoot only offer five or six targets in a morning's shoot. The only short coming is that I only have a couple scopes w/MOA reticle. But I really don't need it for the shorter range stuff.
-
With a rail you can really use any of the tactical style rings. I really like the warne maxima steel rings. They are solid and lightweight.
As for the reticle I would reccomend the moar reticle in the nf as it is not too busy and can only benefit you.
True moa reticles are a god send. Unless your a mil guy.... Then your beyond help :chuckle:
A MOA reticle and having a MOA reticle in my Razor 85 30WA eyepiece made short work of dealing with shifting winds and getting on target with rockchucks. No fuss, no muss with dialing anything, just count dots and hold off on a second shot. Really makes it nice when targets are few and far between, which many of the colonies I shoot only offer five or six targets in a morning's shoot. The only short coming is that I only have a couple scopes w/MOA reticle. But I really don't need it for the shorter range stuff.
I never shot chucks but that is exactly the benefit to them :tup: I been drooling over that 30 x moa eye piece since I got my razor spotter
-
Lap your rings, a little blue lock tite, and tighten to specs and you will be fine. What kind of ranges are you wanting to shoot? Can't go wrong with Zeiss, NF, Leupold, Sightron, or any other top shelf glass in my opinion. Comes down to what features and specs you want.
Blue locktite betw the rings and scope? That may be a good thing for me now that my can of Scotch Coat is all dried up and I can no longer find it for sale. I had to send the Burris 3-9 Signature on my big game rifle back this year. It is a relatively heavy scope in a very light 300 Wby McMillan stocked Mod 70 that has never been adjusted for POI in 30 years and once I attempted to tweek it slightly this year was all over the place. I don't know that it will move when re mounted, but if blue locktite betw the rings and scope tube offers a near guarantee - why not?
Normally I don't even consider scopes moving because I only shoot one scoped big game rifle, my 1886 45/70 carbine and my mod 71 both have Lyman peeps that never move. On Varmint rifles there is no significant recoil.
-
Seems to keep those screws from jarring loose after repeated poundings, but you can still break em lose if need be. I've got two rem 700 and a Savage 111 sitting on the table as we speak that I am accurizing for some friends. Ring screws and base screws both get some. Just a little dab will do ya :chuckle:
-
I've been rolling over this same question and I finally settled on the Leupold mark 4 with the TS-32X1 reticle. Still on the fence between the 6-20, and the 4-14. Its a hunting rifle so the 14x jumps out at me but they are the same weight so I could have a whole 20x and not get a weight penalty :chuckle: Bullblaster is trying to pressure me into the 20x but I don't know if i'm cool enough for the 20x club :chuckle:
-
Lap your rings, a little blue lock tite, and tighten to specs and you will be fine. What kind of ranges are you wanting to shoot? Can't go wrong with Zeiss, NF, Leupold, Sightron, or any other top shelf glass in my opinion. Comes down to what features and specs you want.
Blue locktite betw the rings and scope? That may be a good thing for me now that my can of Scotch Coat is all dried up and I can no longer find it for sale. I had to send the Burris 3-9 Signature on my big game rifle back this year. It is a relatively heavy scope in a very light 300 Wby McMillan stocked Mod 70 that has never been adjusted for POI in 30 years and once I attempted to tweek it slightly this year was all over the place. I don't know that it will move when re mounted, but if blue locktite betw the rings and scope tube offers a near guarantee - why not?
Normally I don't even consider scopes moving because I only shoot one scoped big game rifle, my 1886 45/70 carbine and my mod 71 both have Lyman peeps that never move. On Varmint rifles there is no significant recoil.
Haha! I read back through that again and must have missed it, but no I don't put lock tite between the scope and rings. Although it could actually work now that I think about it :chuckle:
-
I've been rolling over this same question and I finally settled on the Leupold mark 4 with the TS-32X1 reticle. Still on the fence between the 6-20, and the 4-14. Its a hunting rifle so the 14x jumps out at me but they are the same weight so I could have a whole 20x and not get a weight penalty :chuckle: Bullblaster is trying to pressure me into the 20x but I don't know if i'm cool enough for the 20x club :chuckle:
normally a 4 footer couldn't handle 20x but I think the club can make an exception for you. :chuckle:
-
I've been rolling over this same question and I finally settled on the Leupold mark 4 with the TS-32X1 reticle. Still on the fence between the 6-20, and the 4-14. Its a hunting rifle so the 14x jumps out at me but they are the same weight so I could have a whole 20x and not get a weight penalty :chuckle: Bullblaster is trying to pressure me into the 20x but I don't know if i'm cool enough for the 20x club :chuckle:
normally a 4 footer couldn't handle 20x but I think the club can make an exception for you. :chuckle:
You're just jealous that I can crawl on a stalk and you have to slither on your belly :IBCOOL:
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
My Vortex Viper had a full on failure on me this year.
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
My Vortex Viper had a full on failure on me this year.
Glad your getting it fixed for me... :chuckle: You are just more hardcore with your hunting in -20 degree weather.. That isn't right..
-
Lap your rings, a little blue lock tite, and tighten to specs and you will be fine. What kind of ranges are you wanting to shoot? Can't go wrong with Zeiss, NF, Leupold, Sightron, or any other top shelf glass in my opinion. Comes down to what features and specs you want.
Blue locktite betw the rings and scope? That may be a good thing for me now that my can of Scotch Coat is all dried up and I can no longer find it for sale. I had to send the Burris 3-9 Signature on my big game rifle back this year. It is a relatively heavy scope in a very light 300 Wby McMillan stocked Mod 70 that has never been adjusted for POI in 30 years and once I attempted to tweek it slightly this year was all over the place. I don't know that it will move when re mounted, but if blue locktite betw the rings and scope tube offers a near guarantee - why not?
Normally I don't even consider scopes moving because I only shoot one scoped big game rifle, my 1886 45/70 carbine and my mod 71 both have Lyman peeps that never move. On Varmint rifles there is no significant recoil.
Haha! I read back through that again and must have missed it, but no I don't put lock tite between the scope and rings. Although it could actually work now that I think about it :chuckle:
I put the Scotch Coat on "just because" and at that juncture I had just bought the rifle. When I get it back I will remount it, hopefully permanently, like I did the first time. That rifle never has changed zero, but it was always a half inch left and this year I decided, for whatever reason, to center the crosshairs up. It is a good for a half-inch every year when I shoot a few before big game season. When I get it back, I will zero it an inch and a half high right above my aiming point and I suspect it would never need adjustment so long as Nosler keeps making 200 gr Partitions.
-
I have a NXS 5.5-22x56 on my 300 Winchester magnum.Do I love the scope? Yes. But what I have found out is that it is way more scope than I really need.Its a lot of gun and scope to take to the top of the mountain every day.The last 2 years in Montana I've ended up taking my deer at 200 yards or less. I've also learned by just shooting my rifles more that most of my hunting situations just don't need that magnification.I hope to someday be able to use its full potential.Dont skimp on rings and bases.I used all Nightforce bases and rings.I ended up buying a Tikka in 270wsm before the Washington deer season this last year and put a 3-9x40 Leupold that I had laying around and shot my buck at 380 yards and didn't feel under scoped.Just my 2 cents.Im not saying don't buy one I've just learned that so far I have not needed it. Maybe someday.
-
If you're not familiar, do a little research on the Sightron SIII. A few years ago, after owning my first couple Sightrons I sold my 6 or 7 Nightforces and replaced them with SIIIs. IMO you get 97% of the performance for ~50% of the cost. Excellent glass, excellent tracking, and a GREAT value. I'm a big fan of the LRMOA reticle. :twocents:
:yeah: The SIII is an excellent scope worth significantly more than they sell for. I have 3 of them and the glass is every bit as good as the NF NXS, VX-3 and Mk 4 scopes I have. The only issue I have with them is that the clicks on the scope don't have as much resistance as some of the NF and Leupold scopes I have. If you carry your rifle in a pack the turrets may rotate while it's in the pack.
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
My Vortex Viper had a full on failure on me this year.
What happened to your scope ?
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
My Vortex Viper had a full on failure on me this year.
What happened to your scope ?
the reticle came loose or something and would spend when I adjusted my power ring. I no longer had crosshairs I had an X :chuckle: for me personally, hunting is a pass fail test there's no second chances so the vortex is getting the boot and I'm climbing up the ladder hopefully.
-
I should say though, I've put hundreds of rounds through my 300 with that scope, anger it up and down mountains in washington, idaho, colorado, and montana and have had no previous issues. It has tracked true over and over. It was probably the -20° I was out in during my Montana hunt that caused the failure. That being said, my Nikon Buckmaster on my backup rifle was in the same elements, had no issues. It also cost half the price. Loved all the features of that Vortex :bash:
-
You don't need a $1000 + scope on your gun. Buy a Vortex Diamondback. That's all you need. I really don't understand why guys say you need these expensive scopes for a gun you're going to shoot a few times a year.
I'm putting a Vortex PST on my custom 6.5 Creedmoor and that was only $700.
My Vortex Viper had a full on failure on me this year.
What happened to your scope ?
the reticle came loose or something and would spend when I adjusted my power ring. I no longer had crosshairs I had an X :chuckle: for me personally, hunting is a pass fail test there's no second chances so the vortex is getting the boot and I'm climbing up the ladder hopefully.
I had a diamondback on my .300wm and I'm pretty sure the recoil broke that scope. The reticle ended up caddywompus and it leaked and filled with water. Not sure what caused it but it was fine on a .22-250 for a while. Soon after I put it on the .300 it broke. Good scope for the $$$ but I'm not sure it's great for the heavy hitters.
-
I appreciate all the input, i will look into those sightron scopes as well before i choose. I am oscillating between the 5-20 and the 4-14, but am still leaning towards more magnification.
-
I appreciate all the input, i will look into those sightron scopes as well before i choose. I am oscillating between the 5-20 and the 4-14, but am still leaning towards more magnification.
Were do you live? I shoot at Seattle rifle and pistol in Machias, you can check out my Nightforce SHV 5-20X56 if you wanted :twocents:
-
I appreciate all the input, i will look into those sightron scopes as well before i choose. I am oscillating between the 5-20 and the 4-14, but am still leaning towards more magnification.
Were do you live? I shoot at Seattle rifle and pistol in Machias, you can check out my Nightforce SHV 5-20X56 if you wanted :twocents:
I live in Yakima, but I appreciate the offer. I have looked through the Zeiss Conquest HD, and if it is as clear or more clear than that i would be very satisfied.
-
SWFA are very nice scopes too.