Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: ghosthunter on March 20, 2016, 04:14:25 PM
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Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new trailer to haul my camps around. When not hunting, it will be used around the house, hauling garbage , little gravel sometimes, and other home owner chores.
My reason to change is I would like something a little bigger than my Datsun pick up bed trailer. And something with a drop tail gate. Getting older don't like lifting everything.
My current trailer is 5x6.
Thinking 5x10 no bigger than 5x12.
Trying to stay $2000.00 or less.
Anything I should consider before I buy? Any words of wisdom?
Going to be something along these lines. Would like Red or Gray, but not a big concern.
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Buy at least one size bigger than you think you need. If you buy from a dealer watch all the add on fees and negotiate those down or away. :twocents:
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Check this local builder out. They make nice trailers.
http://www.mynexttrailer.com/1901.html
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Wider is good. Cant see those narrow trailers. Track width same as tow vehicle = good.
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Get hard sides and a spring lift for the drop tail gate. You can buy them or make them, just Google tail gate assist. I have a 5 X 10 looks like you photo and very happy with it.
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Lots of different build qualities out there. C channel, Angle iron, Full tube. I have a similar trailer (Iron Eagle) brand, very well built, full tube frame.(stronger than others) Mine does not have the sidewalls ( I made removable ones), is that a must have for you?
I will be selling it soon....going to buy an enclosed cargo trailer.
2013, 6x10, excellent condition, $1800+ new, asking $1500.
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Here's a grey one.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/fod/5476918282.html
If you're not driving an ATV or lawn mower in the back I don't think you want a ramp. Harder to empty as everything lands on the ramp, better to get a swing away or one that drops all the way down for offloading.
http://ironeagletrailers.com/ironeagle/utility-trailers/voyager/
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Get hard sides and a spring lift for the drop tail gate. You can buy them or make them, just Google tail gate assist. I have a 5 X 10 looks like you photo and very happy with it.
Yea got to have solid sides like the one I posted.
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/fod/5476918282.html
If you're not driving an ATV or lawn mower in the back I don't think you want a ramp. Harder to empty as everything lands on the ramp, better to get a swing away or one that drops all the way down for offloading.
http://ironeagletrailers.com/ironeagle/utility-trailers/voyager/
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fironeagletrailers.com%2Fironeagle%2Fimages%2Fgallery%2FVoy-1-400px.jpg&hash=499367df4ef16b3b32e2b361e04f6b66a0f6c829)
Firm on the ramp there may be a atv in my future. I have driven by that company a couple times going south. They had a red one I could see from the freeway. Just need to get down there.
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10-04 on the ATV, might compromise and use a separate ramp for the ATV? Like this.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fironeagletrailers.com%2Fironeagle%2Fimages%2Fgallery%2FVoy-4-400px.jpg&hash=231e60becbbe299ff6935abb0affb5c797b2ff82)
sure would be easier to offload garbage and gravel without a ramp in the way.
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10-04 on the ATV, might compromise and use a separate ramp for the ATV? Like this.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fironeagletrailers.com%2Fironeagle%2Fimages%2Fgallery%2FVoy-4-400px.jpg&hash=231e60becbbe299ff6935abb0affb5c797b2ff82)
sure would be easier to offload garbage and gravel without a ramp in the way.
Not a bad idea, ???? Might be less wind resistance also. :dunno:
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Just remember gravel is heavy, roughly 1.3 tons per yard. I wish someone made a " Do it all trailer "!
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if you can afford, get one that also dumps...
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The cool thing about trailers is they do not seem to lose much value. Spend $3000, 10 years later sell it for $2800 when a new one costs $4000.
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In that brand you are looking at I would check out the 77”x12’ V-Panel Single. A tad over 6' wide and 12' long you would be able to stack 3 quads side by side.
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Just so you all know.
This is the problem I am trying to solve.
My current set up.
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Another
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That 1st pic reminds me of the sleigh from How the Grinch stole Christmas :chuckle: :chuckle:
You don't tie a shed to your dogs head do you? :chuckle: :chuckle: :sry:
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Rather than a 5x10, make it a 6x10 with a drop-down ramp.........WAY more useful.
I've had four utility trailers in the last 30 years. The first three did not have a ramp, and I find it much easier to load and unload with the ramp.
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That picture is classic. What do you think about a smaller dump trailer ? once you own one you will love it . no more shoveling out . most have ramps that slide in under the back .
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That picture is classic. What do you think about a smaller dump trailer ? once you own one you will love it . no more shoveling out . most have ramps that slide in under the back .
I really don't have much use for a dump bed. I haul a little gravel under a yard, every couple years maybe. And I make trips to the dump once a month with odds and ends.
I have a Nissan Frontier which as you know has a small box. Thus I use the trailer like most guys use a truck bed.
Four or five weeks a year moving hunting camp around.
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That picture is classic. What do you think about a smaller dump trailer ? once you own one you will love it . no more shoveling out . most have ramps that slide in under the back .
I really don't have much use for a dump bed. I haul a little gravel under a yard, every couple years maybe. And I make trips to the dump once a month with odds and ends.
I have a Nissan Frontier which as you know has a small box. Thus I use the trailer like most guys use a truck bed.
Four or five weeks a year moving hunting camp around.
You can dump camp off when you get there and then sort the pile and set everything up! Maybe rig up a toilet seat that becomes useful when the dump bed is tilted and have a real "dumping" trailer. :chuckle:
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Man a nice little enclosed would serve you so well.
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I also have an Iron Eagle. They are built extremely strong.
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All aluminum, 6x14 tandem weighs same as single axle 6x12 steel. Never wory about rust etc.
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Get an enclosed one only. Been there, done that. Keeps your stuff dry, you can lock it too. I've had a lot of trailers for our ATV's and went back to the enclosed one that you can drive into.
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Stay away from aluminum. They wont rust but every tweeker in the valley will be trying to steal it from you! Trust me I know!
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Stay away from aluminum. They wont rust but every tweeker in the valley will be trying to steal it from you! Trust me I know!
No problem there.
I was over hunting elk and walking back to camp.
I could here a lot of rattling. 15 min later here come one of those trailers. Darn thing was rattling and sqeeking like crazy.
I would never buy one.
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Get an enclosed one only. Been there, done that. Keeps your stuff dry, you can lock it too. I've had a lot of trailers for our ATV's and went back to the enclosed one that you can drive into.
Yeah my buddies have those. Not what I need. Too hard to haul yard waste and stuff in.
Got to have a open box.
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Buy a dump trailer. Once you have one you will wonder what you did without it. And you can use it for anything you can use a regular trailer for.
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Buy a dump trailer. Once you have one you will wonder what you did without it. And you can use it for anything you can use a regular trailer for.
Don't really need a dump trailer. They look a lot heavier, Don't want to get too big.
I like too go up some roads the guys with their big trucks and trailers wont go to camp. So don't want too big.
Like all the input. :tup:
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Looked at some Olympic trailers today. Went back and forth between a 5x8 and a 5x10.
Leaning towards the 10 ft.
The only thing I didn't like was the tail lights hang lower than anything else.
First dip going into a remote camp and they will get ripped off.
Would have to move them up on top of the angle iron bracket they hang from.
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Look up Iron Panther. I just bought a 5x10 but haven't used it yet so can't give you first hand experience. But the tail lights are up high, the rear gate seemed sturdier than others and comes off very easy so you can replace w ramps if you want, easy grease hubs, lots of tarp hooks welded around both sides and the front, and a little longer tongue frame on the front for easier towing. I compared it to another brand side by side and it was superior in every way for the same price. The sales guy said the company is out of CA and they have a hard time getting them in. Maybe it was just a line but it really did seem better designed and higher quality. We will see.
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Look up Iron Panther. I just bought a 5x10 but haven't used it yet so can't give you first hand experience. But the tail lights are up high, the rear gate seemed sturdier than others and comes off very easy so you can replace w ramps if you want, easy grease hubs, lots of tarp hooks welded around both sides and the front, and a little longer tongue frame on the front for easier towing. I compared it to another brand side by side and it was superior in every way for the same price. The sales guy said the company is out of CA and they have a hard time getting them in. Maybe it was just a line but it really did seem better designed and higher quality. We will see.
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I will look them up. Hooks are important.
The guy I talked to above said they would service the trailer for life. Grease and all. :dunno:
More research.
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I used to haul Eagle trailers from their plant in Oregon to dealers up & down I-5. I really liked Eagle's build process and the final quality of construction.
We are looking at one of their bigger dump trailers as we have alot of improvememt projects for the paddocks and general ground around the barn that will need gravel.
When delivery is equal to the cost per yard, an investment in a trailer just made sense.
Here is one to consider that might work for your needs, under 2000 lbs curb weight, bedsides and dumps, single axle.
http://www.freewaytrailer.net/pdffiles/Eagle-Series-Single-Axle-Dump-Trailer-Specs.pdf
And the folks at Freeway were always pleasant to works with!
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Well made the choice after checking out a lot of models. I decided to get a Iron Panther 5X10. Picking it up today.
One selling point was the tail lights are up on the sides and not down low. I was afraid of dragging the lights off on most models on some of those hunting roads.
The price was comparable with the other models. Also it had tie down hooks all the way around. Something I have added to my past trailers.
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:tup:. Post up pics after ya pick it up
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On a side note... is anyone making a smaller trailer like the Ghost hunter is looking at with the ability to "tilt" the deck? A neighbor of mine has a single axle that tilts but the location of the axle and height of the deck makes it darn near a dumper. They added a couple of steel pads so that a sizzor jack or floor jack could "dump" the load.
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:tup:. Post up pics after ya pick it up
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Any advice on where and how to mount the spare tire?
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Figures I am a week late.....
For anyone else that finds this thread and needs a trailer, check craigslist. Trailer Boss has location in Oly and I think up north as well (marysville?). The deluxe versions get you you one HECK of a trailer for the $.
I just bought my 7K rated one from them, nothing else I found came close in features/build for the $.
I bought the 5x10, 7K rated, Dual axle, drop tail version. Heavy built trailer, thick Diamond plate, fully welded 2x4 steel tube construction, full LED lighting. pictures do not do it justice..
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/fod/5614720529.html
Here is a single axle deluxe, has the swing gate tail, but they should be able to order it in with the drop tail for you, they asked me which rear gate I wanted. The drop tail is nice as it is removable as well, in case you need to load something with a forklift or to shovel landscaping supplies out the tail.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/fod/5592489418.html
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whats the Datsun worth to you or are you keeping it.
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I would mount the spare on the right side of the steel wall provided that your putting a tool box across the front. If not mount it flat on the tongue. May require some welding or u bolt. I always use extra lug nuts to bolt my spare down.
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Ghost,
I bought one of those huge u-bolts for mounting the spare on a boat trailer frame. I drilled holes to have it stick out the side and the tire bolts onto that. Works great.
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whats the Datsun worth to you or are you keeping it.
It is in the classifieds here.
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,197148.msg2616802.html#msg2616802
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I would mount the spare on the right side of the steel wall provided that your putting a tool box across the front. If not mount it flat on the tongue. May require some welding or u bolt. I always use extra lug nuts to bolt my spare down.
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Yeah got to have a box on the front.
I been thinking of the side panel just forward of the fender. Might get another spare and put one either side.
U bolt sounds right. Or a flat metal pate on inside with to bolts coming to outside that line up with lug holes. :dunno:
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Do you weld? I just made one similar to this, just now learning to weld and it was a simple project.
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Do you weld? I just made one similar to this, just now learning to weld and it was a simple project.
Nope
Not a welder.
Looks good though.
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Well technically I'm not a welder either, I'm still a grinder :chuckle:
Harbor freight sells them for around $30. FYI
If you are going to attach it to the frame, this style is much sturdier than a U bolt, speaking from my experiences.
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Well technically I'm not a welder either, I'm still a grinder :chuckle:
Harbor freight sells them for around $30. FYI
If you are going to attach it to the frame, this style is much sturdier than a U bolt, speaking from my experiences.
Hey thanks for the tip . I will check it out.
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Never owned a wood bed trailer.
Anyone who has one, ever seal the wood.?
They said it came sealed. But thinking down the road might re- seal it. :dunno:
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Yes, I pressure wash mine every couple of years and seal it. I also keep the front elevated with a lot of slope on it while it is sitting not being used in the winter.
Nice looking trailer you bought.
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Yes, I pressure wash mine every couple of years and seal it. I also keep the front elevated with a lot of slope on it while it is sitting not being used in the winter.
Nice looking trailer you bought.
Makes sense.
I have always kept my trailers elevated so rain ran off.
I took awhile looking around at trailers. Skagit and Whatcom counties.
I almost bought a Olympic because I knew the guy. But the tail lights were the lowest thing on the trailers. Same with a lot of brands.
I just knew I was going to drag the lights off the first hunting trip.
Also no tie hooks.
Someone here posted about Iron Panther having lights on the sides and hooks.
Turned out a new trailer place opened up mile from work.
And they carried Iron Panther.
They were couple hundred bucks more. But I didn't have to add hooks or raise the lights.
So I am happy.
I did add safety ropes with latches. On the ramp. I drive a lot of rough road so I thought the latches might work loose. Five buck fix.
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Never owned a wood bed trailer.
Anyone who has one, ever seal the wood.?
They said it came sealed. But thinking down the road might re- seal it. :dunno:
just keep a fresh coat of spilled 90 weight and diesel on it and it will never rot.
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Never owned a wood bed trailer.
Anyone who has one, ever seal the wood.?
They said it came sealed. But thinking down the road might re- seal it. :dunno:
Did you seal it? With what? Is the sealer holding up?
Im Looking to buy a car hauler trailer that does not have treated wood, so will need to seal it.
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Put a piece of metal on the tongue arms in front of the trailer and put it there.
My neighbor did this with a piece of aluminum I gave him.👍
It keeps you from breaking the integrity of the trailer wall.
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Never owned a wood bed trailer.
Anyone who has one, ever seal the wood.?
They said it came sealed. But thinking down the road might re- seal it. :dunno:
Did you seal it? With what? Is the sealer holding up?
Im Looking to buy a car hauler trailer that does not have treated wood, so will need to seal it.
Wonder if truck bed liner paint would work?
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Who brought back the 6 year old thread!? Just joking. The bed liners work well but they’re expensive. I looked at having the floor if mine done w/ linex a couple years ago when i lived in Bremerton & they wanted $1200 for it. Even now it’s cheaper to just buy new wood
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Who brought back the 6 year old thread!? Just joking. The bed liners work well but they’re expensive. I looked at having the floor if mine done w/ linex a couple years ago when i lived in Bremerton & they wanted $1200 for it. Even now it’s cheaper to just buy new wood
I was thinking DIY. They make a number of spray on and paint/roll on options now days. Such as: https://www.amazon.com/Herculiner-HCL1B8-Brush-Bed-Liner/dp/B0002TDUW4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1TI18DEVR59L&keywords=truck%2Bbed%2Bliner%2Bpaint&qid=1656452559&sprefix=truck%2Bbed%2Bliner%2Bpaint%2Caps%2C419&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWU9JVkpSSVE4S01TJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTEzNjQ4MjBJSEIzVzUyMDI2NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTM1NTMyWVUwS0w3NkRYVTRCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
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That would save a lot of cash. I might use a real good primer on the wood first, to lock the moisture in it.
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Buy an intermitten license for it
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This is what you want.😉