Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Scopes and Optics => Topic started by: Lefthook on December 06, 2016, 12:00:47 AM
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Anyone use caliber specific scopes? Which scopes are your favorites for magnum calibers and long range shots?
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I generally avoid them, too many variables when it comes to ammo to make a BDC type reticle useful.
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I generally avoid them, too many variables when it comes to ammo to make a BDC type reticle useful.
Thanks for the info. I have never looked into them before.
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They are a cheezy gimmick that counter monkeys like to sell.
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I think the best BDC scopes are for 17hmr because bullet weight and velocities are very similar across the board. I have used the nikon predator scopes with BDC a bunch and think they do a good job as well for similar reasons. Nixon has a Spot On website where you can imput you factory bullet choice and it gives you the calculated drop. I like the predator BDC for the quick target acquisition and rangefinding capibilites they provide. If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. Mostly because you can download the military shooting manuals for free/cheap and could get better by studying up.
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They are a cheezy gimmick that counter monkeys like to sell.
:yeah:
Much better off to get a decent and repeatable scope with mil or moa dials and use that.
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... If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. ...
But with a million dots how will you ever know which one to aim with? :yike: :tung:
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I generally avoid them, too many variables when it comes to ammo to make a BDC type reticle useful.
I have 2 different .308s with bdc scopes. Both are very accurate, despite the diff loads i use from one rifle to the next
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... If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. ...
But with a million dots how will you ever know which one to aim with? :yike: :tung:
Sooooooooooooooooooo many dots....so little time.
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Lol mil dot... Auto correct
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Lol mil dot... Auto correct
:chuckle:
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I have the used the Shepard scope system for about the last 12 years. With that said the one major problem I found with this type of sighting system, is that you have to match your ballistics to the reticle. Once you find the right ballistics to reticle combination, your have to stay with that load, to make the BDC even close to usable. If your a hand loader that likes to tinker, this is a real pain in the arse. I just purchased a Leopold, with adjustable target turrets. In hopes to getting away from that problem and free up my options for loads. JMTCW
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I have the used the Shepard scope system for about the last 12 years. With that said the one major problem I found with this type of sighting system, is that you have to match your ballistics to the reticle. Once you find the right ballistics to reticle combination, your have to stay with that load, to make the BDC even close to usable. If your a hand loader that likes to tinker, this is a real pain in the arse. I just purchased a Leopold, with adjustable target turrets. In hopes to getting away from that problem and free up my options for loads. JMTCW
Thanks for the info Hilltop. I might copy your model if you don't mind. I wouldn't have a problem working up one load to match the BDC and just continue to reman that load. I like to tinker as you say and I have dies for 4 other rifles to mess around with right now, possibly more coming up. I also like your idea of using the adjustable target turrets. Target turrets and an accurate range finder out to 1500+ yards could be interesting. Right now I'm just thinking of getting setup for long range target shooting, I'm not really thinking of long range hunting shots at the moment. Thanks for the insight.
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No reason to use one, I have the BDC and the yardages are completely random for every load I have run. I use the dials and rangefinder.
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No reason to use one, I have the BDC and the yardages are completely random for every load I have run. I use the dials and rangefinder.
Dials and rangefinder seems to be the consensus. Thanks for the help, this will save me a lot of time and headaches I presume.
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But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.
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But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.
I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?
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But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.
I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?
That isn't going to work.
Take a look at the H58 H59 style of reticle. These reticles eliminate the need for dialing and aren't caliber specific.
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But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.
I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?
Not necessarily, it depends on how much money you have to spend on a new scope. And it also depends on who you talk to as to the minimum you need to spend to get a reliable scope. Some say you have to go with Nightforce, Huskemaw, SWFA, etc, so you're looking at investing a couple grand just in a scope. Other guys get by with Leupold and Vortex.
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With scope reticle holdovers you will need to be mindful of scope power setting unless it is a front focal plane scope. Take mil dots for example, if they are second focal plane you will need to be on max power for them to actually be mils.
I have and dial my vx3 scopes as well as mark4 and vortex razor hd. All have tracked perfectly and been repeatable for me.
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I think the best BDC scopes are for 17hmr because bullet weight and velocities are very similar across the board. I have used the nikon predator scopes with BDC a bunch and think they do a good job as well for similar reasons. Nixon has a Spot On website where you can imput you factory bullet choice and it gives you the calculated drop. I like the predator BDC for the quick target acquisition and rangefinding capibilites they provide. If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. Mostly because you can download the military shooting manuals for free/cheap and could get better by studying up.
I agree...I use one on my 17hmr and like the ease of use on it.
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But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.
I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?
Not necessarily, it depends on how much money you have to spend on a new scope. And it also depends on who you talk to as to the minimum you need to spend to get a reliable scope. Some say you have to go with Nightforce, Huskemaw, SWFA, etc, so you're looking at investing a couple grand just in a scope. Other guys get by with Leupold and Vortex.
This is just something different for me to do as a basic hobby. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on a scope so I'll have to get by with a scope around the middle price range, $500-$600. I have two 7mm Rem Mags set up for the type of hunting I do and I have decided to make one into a long range target rifle, just for something different to do. I found a brand new MDT LSS Chassis for $300 and the rifle I'm going to use is basically free and in great shape. I'm hoping for about $1,000 I'll have a decent 1000+ yard target rifle.
I just need to do quite a bit of research and get some good information to make it happen. Something to do in the off season as I get back up to speed for hunting in WA State again. Thanks for the replies, they have helped me get the ball rolling.
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I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.
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I think the best BDC scopes are for 17hmr because bullet weight and velocities are very similar across the board. I have used the nikon predator scopes with BDC a bunch and think they do a good job as well for similar reasons. Nixon has a Spot On website where you can imput you factory bullet choice and it gives you the calculated drop. I like the predator BDC for the quick target acquisition and rangefinding capibilites they provide. If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. Mostly because you can download the military shooting manuals for free/cheap and could get better by studying up.
The only problem with this is your setting could be off by 18 1/2 minutes...
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I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.
:yeah:
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I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.
:yeah:
Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899. :dunno:
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I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.
:yeah:
Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899. :dunno:
This is the one I got, chock on another 5% military discount, how.could I pass it up.
JMTCW, if you buy this scope opt out of the lighted reticle, save your money.
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I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.
:yeah:
Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899. :dunno:
4.5-14 lrt is or at least was 649 might have ended.
Looks like it ended. I posted about it here when it started. Was a great deal.
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Well? Something along these lines?
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I have a scope with the ebr2b reticle and like it well.
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I have just started doing some research on long range shooting and scopes and had no idea everything involved with this style of shooting. I am glad I never got involved with any of this for hunting, keeping it simple and shooting well within my limitations is something I will continue while chasing game.
The posted graphic shows the ridiculous depth involved in shooting a damn groundhog (80). This will be a fun project though, looking forward to building a rifle and all that is involved with accurate distance shooting.
Thanks for the replies.
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I think you are confusing using the reticle for rangefinding or strictly hold over corrections.
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The groundhog reticle was kind of a joke. I think I like the mil.dot reticles, I can see handlaoding an accurate load then going out and shooting all the yardage in 50 yard increments out to 1000yrds or so. I'll just note which dot is dead on at each target.
That should be a good starting point at least. I'm sure I'll get more info as I get my rifle built.
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Reticles on most reticle scopes are by design only valid at maximum zoom. ( sfp) You can fine-tune reticle scopes by adjusting the zoom you range at . Sight in at cross hair range (100 or 200) then shoot at 500 on the scopes max zoom. Adjust scope zoom until the 500 mark on the reticle matches the bullet hole on the 500 yard target. Mark the zoom spot on the scope - thats your new zoom to shoot at. The reticle should be pretty darn close at all other marks assuming it was roughly designed for your load.
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I bailed out on a particular set up for my caliber. I guess I'm going about as low-tech as possible it seems. I'm going to set it up and it's going shoot how it shoots, I hope I can adjust to it.
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I bailed out on a particular set up for my caliber. I guess I'm going about as low-tech as possible it seems. I'm going to set it up and it's going shoot how it shoots, I hope I can adjust to it.
So you just went with a scope having moa knobs?
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I bailed out on a particular set up for my caliber. I guess I'm going about as low-tech as possible it seems. I'm going to set it up and it's going shoot how it shoots, I hope I can adjust to it.
Weaver 4x fixed ?
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I bailed out on a particular set up for my caliber. I guess I'm going about as low-tech as possible it seems. I'm going to set it up and it's going shoot how it shoots, I hope I can adjust to it.
Weaver 4x fixed ?
Ha ha. Not that basic.
I have planned on doing it on the cheap and I could see myself getting sucked into all these different systems. I don't know enough to decide what is good or great or whatever. When it comes down to it I know regardless of what I put on top I will physically set up and shoot at multiple varying yards as I work up to 1,000.
Mil-dot MOA knobs. I will either get into and have a better understanding or fail miserably with my cheap set up. Can't wait to find out.
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I bailed out on a particular set up for my caliber. I guess I'm going about as low-tech as possible it seems. I'm going to set it up and it's going shoot how it shoots, I hope I can adjust to it.
Weaver 4x fixed ?
Mil-dot MOA knobs.
The most cruel joke ever brought on the shooting community.
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I spent my entire life with a Truplex reticle so I'm sure the joke is aimed directly at me.
I will just have more reference points, I'll start out they way I always have and hope I flow into an actual LR system or style.
Pretty lame I know. It will be interesting.
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I spent my entire life with a Truplex reticle so I'm sure the joke is aimed directly at me.
I will just have more reference points, I'll start out they way I always have and hope I flow into an actual LR system or style.
Pretty lame I know. It will be interesting.
my first LR setup was a rem770 youth in 243 with a center point 4x16x44 bdc rec. shot a .5 moa 3shot at 500 yards with that setup.
You gotta start some where
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I spent my entire life with a Truplex reticle so I'm sure the joke is aimed directly at me.
I will just have more reference points, I'll start out they way I always have and hope I flow into an actual LR system or style.
Pretty lame I know. It will be interesting.
My remark is based on having owned optics with Mildot reticles but the dials were MOA. It made me nuts having to do the math all the time.
Once the modern reticles/mil dials showed up it made everything a lot easier and faster.
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I spent my entire life with a Truplex reticle so I'm sure the joke is aimed directly at me.
I will just have more reference points, I'll start out they way I always have and hope I flow into an actual LR system or style.
Pretty lame I know. It will be interesting.
My remark is based on having owned optics with Mildot reticles but the dials were MOA. It made me nuts having to do the math all the time.
Once the modern reticles/mil dials showed up it made everything a lot easier and faster.
Ok, got it. I still think the reticle itself is marketed towards guys like me though.
My math days are over. I'll have a laminated card for yards no matter what scope. If I was hunting with it I think my outlook would be different. I have only made three what I would call long range shots that mattered. If anything would have been different the number would one or two, maybe zero. I would have passed.