Caliber specific scopes.

[bobcat]

But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.

[Lefthook]

But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.

I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?

[jay.sharkbait]

But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.

I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?

That isn't going to work.

Take a look at the H58 H59 style of reticle. These reticles eliminate the need for dialing and aren't caliber specific.

[bobcat]

But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.

I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?

Not necessarily, it depends on how much money you have to spend on a new scope. And it also depends on who you talk to as to the minimum you need to spend to get a reliable scope. Some say you have to go with Nightforce, Huskemaw, SWFA, etc, so you're looking at investing a couple grand just in a scope. Other guys get by with Leupold and Vortex.

[BULLBLASTER]

With scope reticle holdovers you will need to be mindful of scope power setting unless it is a front focal plane scope. Take mil dots for example, if they are second focal plane you will need to be on max power for them to actually be mils.

I have and dial my vx3 scopes as well as mark4 and vortex razor hd. All have tracked perfectly and been repeatable for me.

[treeclimber2852]

I think the best BDC scopes are for 17hmr because bullet weight and velocities are very similar across the board.  I have used the nikon predator scopes with BDC a bunch and think they do a good job as well for similar reasons. Nixon has a Spot On website where you can imput you factory bullet choice and it gives you the calculated drop. I like the predator BDC for the quick target acquisition and rangefinding capibilites they provide.  If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. Mostly because you can download the military shooting manuals for free/cheap and could get better by studying up.

I agree...I use one on my 17hmr and like the ease of use on it. 

[Lefthook]

But, the impression I get from the research I've done, is that you need to spend a lot more money to get a reliable scope if you want to twist turrets. If you just go with a reticle that has the holdover dots, or hash marks, you're not counting on the scope to track properly and consistently every time you take a shot.

I guess what you are saying is just do what I already do, just hold higher for longer shots? In the past I don't take real long shots and I basically know how high to hold at, say, 400 yards. Now I just need to learn how to stretch that out and get comfortable with much more hold over?

Not necessarily, it depends on how much money you have to spend on a new scope. And it also depends on who you talk to as to the minimum you need to spend to get a reliable scope. Some say you have to go with Nightforce, Huskemaw, SWFA, etc, so you're looking at investing a couple grand just in a scope. Other guys get by with Leupold and Vortex.

This is just something different for me to do as a basic hobby. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on a scope so I'll have to get by with a scope around the middle price range, $500-$600. I have two 7mm Rem Mags set up for the type of hunting I do and I have decided to make one into a long range target rifle, just for something different to do. I found a brand new MDT LSS Chassis for $300 and the rifle I'm going to use is basically free and in great shape. I'm hoping for about $1,000 I'll have a decent 1000+ yard target rifle.

I just need to do quite a bit of research and get some good information to make it happen. Something to do in the off season as I get back up to speed for hunting in WA State again. Thanks for the replies, they have helped me get the ball rolling.

[BULLBLASTER]

I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.

[Blacktail Sniper]

I think the best BDC scopes are for 17hmr because bullet weight and velocities are very similar across the board.  I have used the nikon predator scopes with BDC a bunch and think they do a good job as well for similar reasons. Nixon has a Spot On website where you can imput you factory bullet choice and it gives you the calculated drop. I like the predator BDC for the quick target acquisition and rangefinding capibilites they provide.  If I were trying to do long range work I would probably go with a Million dot system. Mostly because you can download the military shooting manuals for free/cheap and could get better by studying up.

The only problem with this is your setting could be off by 18 1/2 minutes...

[jasnt]

I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.

[bobcat]

I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.

Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899.   

[Hilltop123]

I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.

Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899.   

This is the one I got, chock on another 5% military discount, how.could I pass it up.
 JMTCW, if you buy this scope opt out of the lighted reticle, save your money.

[BULLBLASTER]

I think you could pick up a vortex pst or hst in your price range. Either would be a good starter scope for what you are looking to do. Or cabelas has a sale on leupold mark4 right now that's a real good deal at 649.

Which mark 4 is $649? The cheapest I see is $899.   

4.5-14 lrt is or at least was 649 might have ended.
Looks like it ended. I posted about it here when it started. Was a great deal.

[Lefthook]

Well? Something along these lines?

[BULLBLASTER]

I have a scope with the ebr2b reticle and like it well.