Post by: LDennis24 on April 21, 2024, 11:04:58 AM
Post by: TommyH on April 21, 2024, 11:25:35 AM
Post by: deereman on April 21, 2024, 11:33:19 AM
Post by: LDennis24 on April 21, 2024, 11:46:15 AM
exhaust, it needs to breathe. Bigger injectors, Put new valve cover gaskets in while your doing glow plugs. A good tune really wakes these up. Is there something wrong with your turbo?
The airbox tabs were broke when I bought it and it had oily dirt past the filter, I just put sheeting screws in the lid to keep it shut and intended on replacing it with a banks box but never did it. I feel like sometimes the turbo doesn't spool up when it should and other times I feel like it doesn't spool up at all. :dunno: I know how to work on almost anything but I don't know the ins and outs of when it should spool up and when it will have a delay and why, etc. I know for sure it has sucked some dirt past the airbox in its life.
Post by: LDennis24 on April 21, 2024, 11:57:36 AM
Tag, I am going to follow along. I just purchased a ‘99 f250 4x4 with 7.3l that only has 67,000 miles on it. It is having random hard start problems when cold too. Definitely looking at doing a few upgrades to mine as well. I just don’t want to mess up a good reliable truck with the wrong upgrades.
I have the 1999 7.3l F350 4 door long box as well. Manual and it's an excellent pickup. Mostly stock. Straight exhaust with magna flow muffler.
Post by: LDennis24 on April 21, 2024, 11:58:25 AM
Post by: rainshadow1 on April 21, 2024, 01:43:34 PM
Tag, I am going to follow along. I just purchased a ‘99 f250 4x4 with 7.3l that only has 67,000 miles on it. It is having random hard start problems when cold too. Definitely looking at doing a few upgrades to mine as well. I just don’t want to mess up a good reliable truck with the wrong upgrades.
Don't want to thread hijack, my '96 is about as bone stock as they come (aside from lots of diamondplate), but I had cold start issues, then it started to randomly die, sometimes mid-stride. Turns out the fuel bowl heater was rotting away, and it's one of those things that needs perfect functionality for the engine to run at all, much less start in the cold. (Kinda like, if there's a taillight out it won't shift into 4th...) $30 part, 15 minute replacement. Truck won't operate without it.
One upgrade I did was the higher speed, high torque starter, and 2000 Cold Cranking amps in the farm duty batteries... helped things a lot!
Post by: deereman on April 21, 2024, 04:46:07 PM
Post by: LDennis24 on April 21, 2024, 07:32:03 PM
Post by: Encore 280 on April 21, 2024, 07:40:25 PM
Post by: huntnphool on April 21, 2024, 08:53:08 PM
Your issue is your injectors, it’s time! ;)
Rob
Post by: jackelope on April 21, 2024, 09:04:54 PM
Post by: bustedoldman on April 22, 2024, 06:35:58 AM
Post by: LDennis24 on April 22, 2024, 08:00:34 AM
Post by: Vek on May 02, 2024, 02:27:31 PM
1. Gauges...get a boost gauge and pyrometer. These are not optional if you get a tuner or tune of any kind.
2. Turbo as follows:
a.) Not optional: new compressor wheel. Wicked wheel 2 from dieselsite or similar from kcturbos. I've used the BD billet compressor wheel and the kcturbos (which is very similar to the WW2) and the WW2 or KC unit is a bit more responsive down low. Do this regardless of the rest of the options.
b.) Optional: new turbine wheel: KCTurbos has one. More blade area than stock...more responsive down low. I've done two of these and like them.
c.) Not optional: wastegate controller: I bought the Turbomaster and like it a lot. No more mystery about are you bypassing exhaust before you should be.
d.) Optional: or leave stock...this works too...we left my BIL's stock and it works fine.
3. Up pipes: new up pipes from KC or even dorman aren't too expensive. The stock up pipes with their slip joints kinda suck. Removing/replacing these is a tough job. I've done 2 and am happy to not do any more. You know you have an issue if you see soot around your up pipes; up by your turbo.
4. Exhaust: look up how to replace your stock muffler with the Walker 3.5-inch "big truck muffler" or BTM. That's all you need to do for anything your stock or stock-modified turbo can do.
5. Intake: Once you have a tuner and turbo mods, you'll pull more air than your stock airbox with a paper element can provide. Cheap way is to do a DIY 6637 type filter. On my excursion with turbo mods/tuner/exhaust and stock airbox, I routinely pull the little vacuum gauge out of range.
6. Tuner: the PHP hydra is super easy to get loaded and going. Since your excursion has an anti-theft PASS key (probably), you'll need to be sure you check that option when you program your tunes, and learn how to reprogram all of your extra keys after you load the tune.
The canned PHP tunes work great. I've used the 65hp daily and heavy tow tunes on my stickshift truck, and both 40hp daily and tow tunes on the excursion.
Hard starting is a glow plug and glow plug relay show. Glow plugs can be tested by unplugging the plug that goes through the valve cover gaskets and Ohm testing the right pins...no need to remove valve covers. If you replace some plugs, do yourself a favor and get new valve cover gaskets from ford/motorcraft.
This is all very much worth doing, and you'll regret not having done it sooner.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on May 03, 2024, 02:44:34 PM
600 miles spun a crank bearing.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on May 03, 2024, 02:45:21 PM
Post by: LDennis24 on May 03, 2024, 03:35:13 PM
Post by: TommyH on May 22, 2024, 10:09:33 PM
Here's an easy/cheap recipe with good bang for the buck. I've done this more-or-less to three vehicles...an F350 stickshift 7.3 and two 7.3 excursions.
1. Gauges...get a boost gauge and pyrometer. These are not optional if you get a tuner or tune of any kind.
2. Turbo as follows:
a.) Not optional: new compressor wheel. Wicked wheel 2 from dieselsite or similar from kcturbos. I've used the BD billet compressor wheel and the kcturbos (which is very similar to the WW2) and the WW2 or KC unit is a bit more responsive down low. Do this regardless of the rest of the options.
b.) Optional: new turbine wheel: KCTurbos has one. More blade area than stock...more responsive down low. I've done two of these and like them.
c.) Not optional: wastegate controller: I bought the Turbomaster and like it a lot. No more mystery about are you bypassing exhaust before you should be.
d.) Optional: or leave stock...this works too...we left my BIL's stock and it works fine.
3. Up pipes: new up pipes from KC or even dorman aren't too expensive. The stock up pipes with their slip joints kinda suck. Removing/replacing these is a tough job. I've done 2 and am happy to not do any more. You know you have an issue if you see soot around your up pipes; up by your turbo.
4. Exhaust: look up how to replace your stock muffler with the Walker 3.5-inch "big truck muffler" or BTM. That's all you need to do for anything your stock or stock-modified turbo can do.
5. Intake: Once you have a tuner and turbo mods, you'll pull more air than your stock airbox with a paper element can provide. Cheap way is to do a DIY 6637 type filter. On my excursion with turbo mods/tuner/exhaust and stock airbox, I routinely pull the little vacuum gauge out of range.
6. Tuner: the PHP hydra is super easy to get loaded and going. Since your excursion has an anti-theft PASS key (probably), you'll need to be sure you check that option when you program your tunes, and learn how to reprogram all of your extra keys after you load the tune.
The canned PHP tunes work great. I've used the 65hp daily and heavy tow tunes on my stickshift truck, and both 40hp daily and tow tunes on the excursion.
Hard starting is a glow plug and glow plug relay show. Glow plugs can be tested by unplugging the plug that goes through the valve cover gaskets and Ohm testing the right pins...no need to remove valve covers. If you replace some plugs, do yourself a favor and get new valve cover gaskets from ford/motorcraft.
This is all very much worth doing, and you'll regret not having done it sooner.
This is great info to follow. 👍🏼
Post by: rainshadow1 on July 16, 2024, 04:13:28 PM
First thing I'd do is start running Archoil ( https://www.archoil.com/products/power-stroke ) after a few tankful's of it you decide you still need to do something then call/text Cody Toner out of post falls. Send me a PM and I'll pass on his number to you.
Just a follow up… I ran the full archoil treatment plan and still have a few treatments to go in the fuel… I know it’s hot out and the powerstroke likes heat, but it sure seems to have more power and smooth power all through the powerband. Instant starting and a happy consistent idle, no surging or chuffing. I’d be curious to try it for the first time in late fall or winter, but so far in early summer I’m very pleased with the increased performance.
Post by: LDennis24 on July 16, 2024, 05:40:02 PM