Post by: bearpaw on December 26, 2011, 04:36:48 PM
Which do you get the best mileage with and why?
I thought #2 will gell in cold weather, do you know at what temperature?
Which is best for your moter, any difference in motor life?
THANKS for any help.... :twocents:
Post by: Encore 280 on December 26, 2011, 04:54:40 PM
Post by: bearpaw on December 26, 2011, 05:19:05 PM
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Difference_between_number_1_diesel_and_number_2#ixzz1hh09rPiu
Answer:
1D diesel fuel has lower viscosity and a lower pour point than 2D, so is preferred for cold weather. 1D diesel fuel has only about 95 percent of the energy output as 2D, causing reduced gas mileage and lower horsepower. 2D fuel is used in warmer weather, and also can be mixed with 1D for an effective winter fuel.
What is the freezing point of diesel?
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_freezing_point_of_diesel
Answer:
Like most fuels, diesel is a mix of hydrocarbons, and the components have different freezing points. For Number 2 diesel, as the ambient temperatures drop toward 0°C (32 F), it begins to cloud, due to the paraffin in the fuel solidifying. As the temperatures drop below 0°C, the molecules combine into solids, large enough to be stopped by the filter. This is known as the gel point, and generally occurs about -9.5 degrees C (15 degrees F ) below the cloud point.
This wax then forms a coating on the filter which results in a loss of engine power. The same thing happens on starting an engine when the temperature is below freezing. The filter becomes almost instantly coated with wax - usually, enough fuel gets through to allow the engine to idle, but not attain operating RPM. There are two common ways to overcome this: one is a diesel additive, the other is a fuel heater.
In Alaska and other colder climates, lorries are running regularly at -46°C (-51 F) or lower, so as you see, it depends on additives and heating. But to freeze - as in turning solid - you would need laboratory conditions; nature cannot go cold enough to freeze to a low enough temperature.
Freezing of Gasoline (Petrol)
Fuels (like gasoline) are really a cocktail of hydrocarbons: thicker, oil-like stuff at room temperature with some thinner ones, and also aromatics that are gaseous at room temperature.
So, by freezing, is the question asking when it turns solid? The heavier hydrocarbons will start to solidify sooner than the aromatics.
The flash point of gasoline is about -72°C (-97F), meaning that it will still burn at 72 degrees below zero. Most labs won't even have the ability to chill a sample down that far to find out! Even the -72°C mark is going to vary, based on the additives in the sample.
Of course, if there is any water mixed in with the fuel, it can still freeze at around 0°C, but that may depend on if there are any alcohols mixed with the sample. Methyl alcohol is a common additive you can buy to help keep water in your gas tank from freezing at low temperatures.
The thicker, heavier hydrocarbons, like paraffin, will become solid at atmospheric temperatures. Some of the aromatics won't turn solid until -100 to -200°C (-200F to -300F). Not something you'll see outside of a lab.
Post by: bearpaw on December 26, 2011, 05:22:02 PM
sounds like I better get some additive.... :tup:
Post by: ANDERWAGON on December 27, 2011, 08:47:16 AM
On a different note if your buying #1 at home you need to make sure it is being additized. High and low sulfur #1 is used for Heating Oil / Kerosene and Jet Fuel. If its low sulfur for vehicle use it needs a lubricity additive. This is a conductivity inhibitor and a lubricate, sulfur is to diesel what lead was to gas. Most of the time in your area they sale #2 and splash it with #1 when the temperature drop. If you fuel at the same place a lot I would ask them to provide a COA, Certification of Analyst. The things to note from it are the Cetane, Pour Point/Cloud and Flash. You'll have to take there word on the additive as that happen when the delivery truck is loading. The COA is for the base product. :twocents:
Post by: Woodchuck on December 27, 2011, 09:01:10 AM
Post by: wildweeds on January 23, 2012, 09:57:52 PM
I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. :twocents:
Post by: sebek556 on January 23, 2012, 10:02:55 PM
I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. :twocents:run it constantly in my 00 7.3l
Post by: Special T on January 23, 2012, 10:58:09 PM
Post by: wildweeds on January 24, 2012, 06:44:11 AM
For your 7.3............Bill hewitts powerstroke website http://powerstrokehelp.com/ .I doubt you've changed the oil in the injection driving train up top on the motor.If you watch this guy's informational video that is free,you will go.......... "OH JUDAS wish I'd have know about this 100,000 miles ago.I changed mine with some farm kid know how,made a recovery tool from my shopvac and a mason jar.What I noticed after I got all the heavy grease that had once been oil out of it,way easier starting in cold weather and just in general. Drill through his site and click on "Fuel system tune up,and watch that 4 part video.
I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. :twocents:run it constantly in my 00 7.3l
Post by: mkcj on January 24, 2012, 07:34:59 AM
Post by: Dhoey07 on January 24, 2012, 07:49:33 AM
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on January 24, 2012, 08:26:04 AM
Stanadyne.
I put a bottle of stanadyne in mine about every other tank. :tup:
Post by: JLS on January 24, 2012, 09:06:54 AM
Bio diesel is one of the most effective lubricants for diesel fuel pumps. I don't know if I can find the article, but it tested better at lubricity than about any other diesel fuel additive. I run it whenever I can.
Post by: sebek556 on January 24, 2012, 09:18:09 AM
Post by: C-Money on January 24, 2012, 09:33:29 AM
I ran that in my old 6.9 in the winter, never had any issues. I did not use it in the summer, but that was before they went to ultra low sulfer fuel. I kinda miss my old pickup, to bad she died..... :'(I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. :twocents:run it constantly in my 00 7.3l
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on January 24, 2012, 11:06:55 AM
Post by: TwoSixFourWins on January 24, 2012, 11:45:46 AM
Post by: TwoSixFourWins on January 24, 2012, 11:48:16 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 24, 2012, 11:50:35 AM
Post by: TwoSixFourWins on January 24, 2012, 11:58:35 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 24, 2012, 12:26:05 PM
Post by: Special T on January 24, 2012, 01:01:15 PM
Post by: JLS on January 24, 2012, 01:14:30 PM
I've only had my diesel gel up on me one time in North Dakota, minus 30. I was running straight number 2 with an additive that was plant based and supposed to have anti-gel properties. It didn't, so you might be on to something. Honestly, here in WA I'm not too worried about it.
Having operated mine for ten years in the northern plains also, a couple thoughts on twosixtyfour's advice:
Run synthetic oil in the winter if a block heater is not readily available. Much quicker oil flow and easier startup.
Check your serpentine belt regularly. I had to change one once that broke on a cold startup in minus 20. No fun.
Take care of your batteries and cables. I've had to cycle my intake heater twice on numerous occasions, and it does put a tremendous drain on your batteries.
Post by: wildweeds on January 24, 2012, 05:24:24 PM
actually wildweeds I did do that when i changed a bad injector :tup:
Post by: sebek556 on January 24, 2012, 05:26:10 PM
Post by: TwoSixFourWins on January 26, 2012, 11:43:30 AM
Post by: bearpaw on January 26, 2012, 12:10:42 PM
Post by: TwoSixFourWins on January 26, 2012, 12:20:47 PM
Post by: bearpaw on January 26, 2012, 12:26:01 PM
Quote
I've had to cycle my intake heater twice on numerous occasions, and it does put a tremendous drain on your batteries.
When cooler than 40 degrees it seems like I need to either be plugged in or I have to cycle my heaters several times depending how cold it is. I am running a 2003 7.3 ford. Starts fine the first time if over 40.
Post by: JLS on January 26, 2012, 01:02:33 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 27, 2012, 07:51:37 AM
Post by: wildweeds on January 27, 2012, 12:09:37 PM
QuoteI've had to cycle my intake heater twice on numerous occasions, and it does put a tremendous drain on your batteries.
When cooler than 40 degrees it seems like I need to either be plugged in or I have to cycle my heaters several times depending how cold it is. I am running a 2003 7.3 ford. Starts fine the first time if over 40.
Post by: bearpaw on January 27, 2012, 02:30:52 PM
Any advice on how to find and test the solenoid or glow plugs?
Your glow plug relay is on its way out,easy to change and from experiance.............. buy the replacement from the Ford Dealer, the replacements I've gotten from Napa ............... sucked and burned out in about a year.QuoteI've had to cycle my intake heater twice on numerous occasions, and it does put a tremendous drain on your batteries.
When cooler than 40 degrees it seems like I need to either be plugged in or I have to cycle my heaters several times depending how cold it is. I am running a 2003 7.3 ford. Starts fine the first time if over 40.
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on January 27, 2012, 02:38:10 PM
Any advice on how to find and test the solenoid or glow plugs?
Here ya go. Pretty quick and easy.
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27553 (http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27553)
Post by: fair-chase on January 27, 2012, 02:45:27 PM
Your glow plug relay is on its way out,easy to change and from experiance.............. buy the replacement from the Ford Dealer, the replacements I've gotten from Napa ............... sucked and burned out in about a year.
:yeah: I can attest to the parts store relays burning out very quickly (couple of weeks tops). Get the factory replacement and save time and money, in the long run of course because you never actually save up front when getting factory parts. :chuckle:
Post by: bearpaw on January 27, 2012, 04:18:13 PM
Any advice on how to find and test the solenoid or glow plugs?
Here ya go. Pretty quick and easy.
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27553 (http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27553)
Great info, thanks.
If I understand correctly, in the photo in the first post on that link, there are two relays, one in the open and one under the hose. For my 2003 I will want to check and/or change the one in the open. And it should be the one closest to the rear of the engine. Is that correct?
Post by: sebek556 on January 27, 2012, 05:15:01 PM
Post by: hdshot on February 11, 2012, 11:41:50 PM
My boat loves it with that 10% ethanol gas. Thank the Lord for Seafoam with my boat running like garbage without it mixed with ethanol. I still take the extra time to find the station with ethanol free for car and boat but that doesn't work every time.
Post by: Special T on February 12, 2012, 06:21:31 AM
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on February 12, 2012, 10:08:52 AM
Post by: sebek556 on February 18, 2012, 10:16:10 PM
Post by: bearpaw on February 19, 2012, 03:03:00 AM
1. I've been running #2 Diesel unless it's real cold and I have noticed better mileage as some of you said.
2. I changed the relay and the truck starts easy on the first try at 30 degrees. That wouldn't happen before the relay change.
Thanks for the help. :tup:
Post by: luckyman on February 19, 2012, 06:47:32 AM
Just did the injector oil change for a family friend today 01 7.3l 155000 mile first time its ever had it done. I drove it down to the freeway and back before doing the change to see how it ran. Wow, it actually made a big difference in his truck. It went from kinda sluggish to full power. I did use the prolong(which is freakin' 18 bucks a bottle). Not promising anything here for power gains for everyone, but it really improved his truck. I used a hand vaccum from harbor freight (like 8 bucks) and a spare gallon of delo plus the prolong which was the expensive part.
On my last oil change I though I would check and see what the oil looked like in the hpop reservoir. It was just as ugly & black as the oil in the crank case. After changing the oil in the crank case and driving it a day or so, I looked in the reservoir to see if it still looked nasty. It was totally clean, not even a little dark. Changing the hpop oil is pretty much unnecessary from what I could see.