Questions about diesel fuels?

[bearpaw]

I have some questions about the difference between #2 and #1 diesel.

Which do you get the best mileage with and why?
I thought #2 will gell in cold weather, do you know at what temperature?
Which is best for your moter, any difference in motor life?

THANKS for any help....

[Encore 280]

Googled it and "ehow" explained it pretty good. #1 is for cold weather but is a bit more expensive but you can mix the two also.

[bearpaw]

OK thanks, I googled it and found this:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Difference_between_number_1_diesel_and_number_2#ixzz1hh09rPiu
Answer:
1D diesel fuel has lower viscosity and a lower pour point than 2D, so is preferred for cold weather. 1D diesel fuel has only about 95 percent of the energy output as 2D, causing reduced gas mileage and lower horsepower. 2D fuel is used in warmer weather, and also can be mixed with 1D for an effective winter fuel.




What is the freezing point of diesel?
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_freezing_point_of_diesel
Answer:
Like most fuels, diesel is a mix of hydrocarbons, and the components have different freezing points. For Number 2 diesel, as the ambient temperatures drop toward 0°C (32 F), it begins to cloud, due to the paraffin in the fuel solidifying. As the temperatures drop below 0°C, the molecules combine into solids, large enough to be stopped by the filter. This is known as the gel point, and generally occurs about -9.5 degrees C (15 degrees F ) below the cloud point.

This wax then forms a coating on the filter which results in a loss of engine power. The same thing happens on starting an engine when the temperature is below freezing. The filter becomes almost instantly coated with wax - usually, enough fuel gets through to allow the engine to idle, but not attain operating RPM. There are two common ways to overcome this: one is a diesel additive, the other is a fuel heater.

In Alaska and other colder climates, lorries are running regularly at -46°C (-51 F) or lower, so as you see, it depends on additives and heating. But to freeze - as in turning solid - you would need laboratory conditions; nature cannot go cold enough to freeze to a low enough temperature.
 

Freezing of Gasoline (Petrol)
Fuels (like gasoline) are really a cocktail of hydrocarbons: thicker, oil-like stuff at room temperature with some thinner ones, and also aromatics that are gaseous at room temperature.
 
So, by freezing, is the question asking when it turns solid? The heavier hydrocarbons will start to solidify sooner than the aromatics.

The flash point of gasoline is about -72°C (-97F), meaning that it will still burn at 72 degrees below zero. Most labs won't even have the ability to chill a sample down that far to find out! Even the -72°C mark is going to vary, based on the additives in the sample.

Of course, if there is any water mixed in with the fuel, it can still freeze at around 0°C, but that may depend on if there are any alcohols mixed with the sample. Methyl alcohol is a common additive you can buy to help keep water in your gas tank from freezing at low temperatures.

The thicker, heavier hydrocarbons, like paraffin, will become solid at atmospheric temperatures. Some of the aromatics won't turn solid until -100 to -200°C (-200F to -300F). Not something you'll see outside of a lab.

[bearpaw]

I drove home from down by Utah and last filled with #2 diesel, it was quite a bit cheaper, but going north from Spokan to Colville temps dropped, we were 14 degrees this morning here at the house and I was concerned about gelling....

sounds like I better get some additive....

[ANDERWAGON]

Bearpaw, I would run for some additive. The #2 diesel in Utah is probably at the top end of there tolerances for Pour/ Cloud and Flash.

On a different note if your buying #1 at home you need to make sure it is being additized.  High and low sulfur #1 is used for Heating Oil / Kerosene and Jet Fuel. If its low sulfur for vehicle use it needs a lubricity additive. This is a conductivity inhibitor and a lubricate, sulfur is to diesel what lead was to gas. Most of the time in your area they sale #2 and splash it with #1 when the temperature drop. If you fuel at the same place a lot I would ask them to provide a COA, Certification of Analyst. The things to note from it are the Cetane, Pour Point/Cloud and Flash. You'll have to take there word on the additive as that happen when the delivery truck is loading. The COA is for the base product. 

[Woodchuck]

I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. 

[wildweeds]

pretty funny that the goverment states the sulfer content to be X parts per million but yet it's okay to add it back in an additive.....

I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. 

[sebek556]

I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. 

run it constantly in my 00 7.3l

[Special T]

the other thing about running #1 is that it doesn't have 5% bio diesel in it. That reduces the clouding of the fuel by itself... Several of the additives for anti gelling are also excellent for keeping lubricity in the engine/injectors. 

[wildweeds]

Kinda of a side bar but fuel related

 For your 7.3............Bill hewitts powerstroke website http://powerstrokehelp.com/   .I doubt you've changed the oil in the injection driving train up top on the motor.If you watch this guy's informational video that is free,you will go.......... "OH JUDAS wish I'd have know about this 100,000 miles ago.I changed mine with some farm kid know how,made a recovery tool from my shopvac and a mason jar.What I noticed after I got all the heavy grease that had once been oil out of it,way easier starting in cold weather and just in general. Drill through his site and click on "Fuel system tune up,and watch that 4 part video.

I run Power Service additive in the white jug every time I fill. It has anti-gel and sulfer additive in it, is not very expensive. I actually get a little better mileage with it than without it. 

run it constantly in my 00 7.3l

[mkcj]

I brought 10 gallons of #2 up to the cabin in Winthrop last weekend and when I went to pour it in on Sunday it was like syrup I didn't realize until I had almost 5 gallons in so filled it with #1 in town. It was only in the 20's I thought it would be ok now I know different.

[Dhoey07]

Stanadyne. 

[jeepasaurusrex]

Stanadyne.

I put a bottle of stanadyne in mine about every other tank. 

[JLS]

I'm guessing the #2 you bought in UT is a winter blend #2 that has additives already in it.  Most do, unless you were in extreme southern UT?  You shouldn't have problems with gelling at 14 above with #2. 

Bio diesel is one of the most effective lubricants for diesel fuel pumps.  I don't know if I can find the article, but it tested better at lubricity than about any other diesel fuel additive.  I run it whenever I can.

[sebek556]

actually wildweeds I did do that when i changed a bad injector