Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 01, 2008, 09:08:16 AM
After checking my cape measurements and ordering my mannikin, I started off by preparing the form for the competition nose septum.
First I cut out the material in the nostril area, mark some alignment marks for reference and then cut off the nose . I use a thin hack saw blade for this. (pic No. 1)
Then I pin it back in place to check the alignment ( pic No. 2)
Once the nose is off, I removed the material behind the nose using a dremel tool. I lay out the area to be removed using a nose septum reference and a sharpie. It takes some careful work to get this part of the process just right. (Pic No. 3 & 4)
Next, The center of the nose is removed to accept the plastic nose septum. This needs to be precise and will come to within an 1/8th inch or less from the back of the nose pad.
(Pic No. 5)
The Septum is then fitted into the slot. It take a lot of trial and error to get it positioned just right. (Pic No.6)
At this point nothing is permanently attached.
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 01, 2008, 09:22:18 AM
A slot has to be created to accept the back of the septum into the mannikin.
Then I check for proper fit
Once I'm satisfied with the fit, I permanently attach using bondo being carefull that the bondo doesn't squeeze out and ruin all of my hard work.
You can now see the effect once this has been installed. A judge will use a flashlight to check the correctness of the inside of the nose.
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 01, 2008, 09:39:16 AM
I pre-drill the skull plate and install four 3 inch screws. Once I am satisfied with the fit, I remove the screws and add a generous amount of bondo, then reattach the screws.
Once this is complete, I finish off the skull plate using plaster.
Post by: boneaddict on August 01, 2008, 09:44:09 AM
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 01, 2008, 10:15:32 AM
For the ears, I turn these to their leading edges. I leave the cartilage because I use the bonded ear method. On my cape the ears are almost perfect. But, I am also mounting a mule deer for the family of my late uncle and the cape that I have for his mount, the ears are really in bad shape. So, I am showing how I go about repairing ears.
I use a small needle and thread to repair the torn areas. This is a painstaking task. Be sure not to get any hair caught between the stitches. I dab a little super glue on the thread to keep it in place.
Once repaired, I mix bondo, fiberglass resin 50/50 into a soupy mixture. I add bondo hardener (I mix this pretty hot ) then add chopped glass. I place this in the ear and work it into place making sure to remove all air bubbles. Then I spend the next 7 -10 minutes forming the ear. I continue to groom the hair using a brush. I stay with it until the bondo kicks. The result is an ear that is formed to the shape of the deers natural cartilage.
After all of the repairs, these didn't turn out too badly. The end result is a nice looking ear.
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 01, 2008, 10:46:21 AM
Sand flanges, mold lines, and areas to improve adhesion. I cut in the tear ducts and lip area using my tucking tool or a knife. I don't dremel or saw these because I like to just cut through the hard shell of the foam using as thin of a blade as possible. That way, when I tuck the skin, it kind of opens and allows the skin to go in and then it holds it by pinching it into place. I've found that I have less problems with these areas moving during the drying process. If that makes sense. The nostril areas are already complete.
I spend a little time working on the details. Nothing dramatic here. I try to improve the detail under the throat using my dremel too and sand paper. Also, I cut in any muscle detail in the shoulders using a file.
Under the arm pits, next to the brisket I modify this area a little bit. As well as the muscle detail along the cheeks.
I cut holes in the location of the ear butts so that I can push the inner ear skin into the skull a bit. (I still need to do all of the clay work which I'll show a later)
Finally, I cut a slot down the back. I'll fill this with clay and it will give me a place to press in my sewing seam. You will hardly be able to feel where it was sewn once complete. (A short incision will eliminate this step)
I will add more pics once I get further along in the process!
Post by: Slider on August 01, 2008, 04:11:17 PM
Post by: PacificNWhunter on August 01, 2008, 06:31:04 PM
Post by: Jackjr on August 01, 2008, 09:18:37 PM
Post by: Wea300mag on August 03, 2008, 09:19:46 AM
Post by: bowsandhose on August 04, 2008, 04:42:40 PM
Post by: Muleyslyr on August 05, 2008, 10:38:11 AM
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 06, 2008, 07:47:38 PM
Post by: Jackjr on August 06, 2008, 08:12:45 PM
Post by: Muleyslyr on August 07, 2008, 08:58:03 AM
Post by: tlbradford on August 07, 2008, 09:17:57 AM
Post by: huntnphool on August 07, 2008, 09:34:54 AM
Post by: bowsandhose on August 07, 2008, 08:07:26 PM
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 09, 2008, 05:31:43 AM
I left off with preparing the ears and the mannikin. Next, I repair any holes in the cape. In this case a repair of the bullet holes. The bullet doesn't just leave a hole, it also burns and damages the surrounding fur. The damaged fur needs to be removed in such a way as to not show up when the mount is complete. So, a football shaped incision is made (with the way the fur is laying) making sure all damaged fur is removed. Then the incision is carefully stitched
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 09, 2008, 05:48:50 AM
Although the form creates most of the anatomically correct details of the mount, the clay allows subtle details to be sculpted in. This is where most taxidermists use their interpretations of their reference materials such as eye shape, nostril shape, ear placement, ear butt details, etc.
In my opinion, I think if you look close enough you can almost recognize the work of a particular taxidermist. I know there are a few local taxidermists and some nationally recognized that I respect that I can usually recognize their work when I see it.
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 09, 2008, 06:26:12 AM
The next step, In addition to the previous clay work, I also add clay into the ear butt areas of the cape to form the ear butt muscles. Once all the Clay work has been completed, it's time to get to work. I apply the hide paste and then begin to add the cape to the form.
The cape is slipped into position starting with the face, then the it's temporarily pinned along the back while I sew around the antler burrs. I use an epoxy adhesive around the burrs since these areas tend to dry out and pull away.
Once I get past the "Y incision" sewing, I stop at that point and work on the face. I tuck the lips, eye lids, tear ducts and inner nostril skin into place taking care to align the fur in the correct position. I use dress makers pins to hold the areas around the eyes and lips. Sometimes I use "cape nails" to nail down the fur around the antler burr until the epoxy has cured. (Especially on elk)
Then, it's back to sewing the long incision down the back. I use a baseball stitch spaced about 1/8 -1/4 inch apart. Once complete, I epoxy the armpit areas and staple the hide on the back. Armpits can sometimes drum if these are not positioned and glued properly. I use foam pipe insulation and T pins to pin these areas until the epoxy cures.
Once the stapling is complete, I trim the excess hide and cut the fur neatly for that clean professional finishing touch.
Then the back incision is pressed into the clay and brushed out. You won't see or feel any stitches here!
Next time, Some info on finish work. (I'm not quite in Bucklucky's league, he posted some great info regarding painting noses)
Post by: Bearhunter on August 09, 2008, 06:32:29 AM
Post by: Hunting Cowboy on August 09, 2008, 06:37:53 AM
Post by: bucklucky on August 09, 2008, 08:30:05 AM
Post by: Jackjr on August 09, 2008, 09:11:05 AM
Post by: Slider on August 09, 2008, 08:29:33 PM
Post by: MuleySniper on August 10, 2008, 02:03:02 PM
MS
Post by: elkaholic on September 19, 2008, 10:25:12 PM