Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: Alpinegus on April 24, 2012, 08:45:15 PM
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Tired of arrows not grouping. Shoot decent groups with fields tips.
Looking for suggestions on 125 gran broad heads, with replaceable blades.
Any suggestions?
:archery_smiley:
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Check your tuning with broadheads. Also many may argue this but sometimes tuning the arrow works. This means check your FOC and arrow weight. Depending on how far you are shooting you should be shooting tight groups if everything is tuned correct. Of course none of the above applies if your form is bad so check that too. I am mostly a trad shooter but, have a compound also. It like a heavier arrow. Think momentum not speed! The best option is somewhere in the middle. :twocents:
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Oh yeah, Most of the broadheads should shoot fine. Arrow dynamically most are so close as it just comes down to preference. I have been shooting Thunderheads for it seems like forever. Never had an issue killing elk. All about shot placement.
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If your bow is tuned correctly most broadheads shod shoot fine. Remember also that broadheads will accentuate any problem you may have in your tuning and/or your technique. Bare shaft paper tune then walk back tune it. This has worked good for me with the few bows that I have tuned.
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Wish all the broadheads did fly well but many don't . I shoot the 125 Magness Stingers and they fly just great.
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Good form and proper tune are the most important factors in getting broadheads to group well. This involves optimizing arrow and bow performance as well as lots of practice. If you practice with your field tips, practice to 80 yards. Errors in form will show themselves at that distance.
Bigger surface area blades with blade extending to tip (cut on contact) are going to accentuate tuning and form issues, but you get big holes and lots of penetration, and subsequently better blood trails. Trochar tips with typical triangular replacement blades are going to improve flight performance, but decreased penetration over the cut on contact. Any modifications to the broadhead blades that decreases surface area will make flight more similar to field tips.
If you are in tune and your form is good, you should be able to shoot any broadhead accurately. Since none of us shoot perfectly, the broadhead groups will always be bigger than field tip groups. The worse you shoot, the shorter you should limit yourself on actual shot.
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I am running the ultimate steel broadheads this year. They have been shooting like darts and really working well.
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Google broadhead tuning.
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There's another thread on this and i posted some YouTube videos. 125 grain broadheads can be tuned to hit exactly the same point as the field tips.
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100 grainers can also. Once you broadhead tune you will be amazed at the performance of your bow. Do a search on archerytalk for "broadhead tuning day" there is a great tutorial there.
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I mis-spoke. Broadheads can be tuned to hit in exactly the same place as an identically weighted field point.
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Go to a two-blade cut on contact BH and make sure your shooting correct spine shaft. FOC is VERY important too. Anything 12% to 20% FOC should shoot great. I shoot 150gr two-blade, single-bevel BH's and my FOC is 19.5% I also shoot a 29.5"shaft that is 300 spine @ 70lbs & 31" draw. Note: I tried 340 spine before 300 spine arrows, and they just wouldn't fly correctly w/BHs. With the 300 spine, I have same POI as my field points and with the extra FOC, they shoot like darts! The extra FOC will allow the arrow to stabilize faster off the bow (i.e., less archer's Paradox).
My guess is you are shooting a shaft that is too weak and the flex in the shaft (archers paradox) as the arrow is released is more apparent with BH's attached. As someone else mentioned, paper tune first. If you can produce bullet holes (up close and then take a few steps back & repeat), the spine is OK and you have it tuned up. If you are seeing tears and can't get rid of them by adjusting arrow rest and/or nock point, spine is probably too weak.
ET
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Thanks all for your input. In will be checking out the broadhead tuning, as there must be more to it than I thought.
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first throw the 125 gr in the GARRRRABAGE :dunno: and get some 100 gr wasp boss .... :yeah: ALL THIS SHOULD GET GOOD NOW :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)
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100 grain slick tricks shoot feild point accurate with no tuning. They're 10 dollars a price but worth the consistent flight patter you get.
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I've got my bow all tuned up but every year after shooting hundreds of field points it takes me a little work to get my bow to group broad heads well. They really amplify your form & bow flaws. I have to really slow down, work on form & follow through is so critical. It takes a little effort but once broad heads are dialed in I feel ready for the season. Mike
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first throw the 125 gr in the GARRRRABAGE :dunno: and get some 100 gr wasp boss .... :yeah: ALL THIS SHOULD GET GOOD NOW :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)
I was waiting to hear this one :chuckle:
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first throw the 125 gr in the GARRRRABAGE :dunno: and get some 100 gr wasp boss .... :yeah: ALL THIS SHOULD GET GOOD NOW :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)
Oh no you di'int!
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Wasp is a name that for some reason isn't well known, but they are super in my opinion. I like to shoot the bullets. They fly great, but only have a 1" cutting diameter. I'm told they will put elk down with no problem.
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100 grain slick tricks shoot feild point accurate with no tuning. They're 10 dollars a price but worth the consistent flight patter you get.
I was shooting Muzzy's for years, then got turned into a die hard Slick Trick guy. They fly great with very little tuning (for me of course...every shooter and bow is different). With a 1 1/8" cutting diameter from the Slick Trick Magnums, they are devastating. I really like the bigger wound channel the 4 bladed BH's make, and the blade thickness is greater than the Muzzy's were. Just my two cents.
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:yeah: me too. Muzzy was what I shot for years. Then I spent the extra on slicktricks this year I'm going mag or griz what ever one I like and decide on. I like that the slick tricks are solid steel shafts so there durable.
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I have never shot 125 grain broadheads and I dont believe I have ever needed the extra weight. I dont think besides a little more kenetic energy and maybee a bigger cutting diameter there is not much difference betwee 100 and 125. There is only 2 broadheads I will shoot. my first choice is the Shuttle T and my second is the Slick Tricks. :twocents:
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a blade broke off on my bull using slick tricks last year. wasnt a fan of that and wont be shooting them anymore. :twocents:
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Use a WASP and you will never have that happen :yike: You guys laugh at me always going on about Wasp ..Just try them one time and then you will believe me ....To me they are the toughest broadhead made .. I never had one fall apart or brake ...The blades might bend but I never had one break ...100GR Wasp Boss is the sheet ... FEAR NO BONE ....PERIOD !!!!!! :twocents: Laugh some more :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)
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im curious no one has mentioned blazer vanes. i was shooting 4 inch vanes and wasnt grouping with my bh's as well as i would have liked so i switched to blazers and the difference was astronomical! i wont ever shoot 4 inch vanes again and i shot them for 16 years. with practice tips i didnt notice a difference but when i switched to bh's the improvement was hugely noticeable!
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a blade broke off on my bull using slick tricks last year. wasnt a fan of that and wont be shooting them anymore. :twocents:
Muzzy is the Only other I have shot. It would have shattered in your bull so compared to that a broken blade is ok. Did your bull die?
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Slick trick upgraded the steel in their blades about a year ago. I like the 4 cutting edges. Big hole.
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Diy,
He died but it took too long. Recovered him the next morning luckily the meat hadn't spoiled.
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im curious no one has mentioned blazer vanes. i was shooting 4 inch vanes and wasnt grouping with my bh's as well as i would have liked so i switched to blazers and the difference was astronomical! i wont ever shoot 4 inch vanes again and i shot them for 16 years. with practice tips i didnt notice a difference but when i switched to bh's the improvement was hugely noticeable!
Blazers definately help alot. I've been tinkering with NAP Quickspins, and am finding them tightening my groups even more. I haven't tuned them for 60+ yards shots with broadheads yet, so we'll see.
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100 grain slick tricks shoot feild point accurate with no tuning. They're 10 dollars a price but worth the consistent flight patter you get.
I love my ST's too and have used them for about 5 years now. Killed a ton of elk and deer with them and they are deadly. I practice out to 100 yards with my broadheads and can drill tacks.
I will say that Shuttle T's actually fly a little better but due to the energy my bow creates I like to take advantage of the extra blade cutting. I still get passthroughs on elk the majority of the time and 100% of the time on deer. (My setup makes around 80 ft. lbs. of KE with a 455 grain arrow)
If you are making less than 65 lbs. of KE, try out a Shuttle T. The ST's will work just fine with lower KE setups too, but you asked for the most accurate broadhead out there. (ie. closest to a field tip)
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im curious no one has mentioned blazer vanes. i was shooting 4 inch vanes and wasnt grouping with my bh's as well as i would have liked so i switched to blazers and the difference was astronomical! i wont ever shoot 4 inch vanes again and i shot them for 16 years. with practice tips i didnt notice a difference but when i switched to bh's the improvement was hugely noticeable!
Blazers definately help alot. I've been tinkering with NAP Quickspins, and am finding them tightening my groups even more. I haven't tuned them for 60+ yards shots with broadheads yet, so we'll see.
Try 4 blazers with your broadheads and you will thank me later. ;)
Nothing shoots like they do at long range.
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a blade broke off on my bull using slick tricks last year. wasnt a fan of that and wont be shooting them anymore. :twocents:
Between my partner and I, we have killed 13 elk in the last five years with ST's (and a lot of deer). About half of the elk we got second arrows into also. We have not had a single blade break and I have used the same ferrule on 5 animals before it no longer spun true. I think you got really unlucky if that makes you feel better. ST's are probably the most reliable and toughest head on the market.
I'm curious what head you are thinking about going to because I am willing to bet I could direct you to multiple horror stories about it breaking.
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im curious no one has mentioned blazer vanes. i was shooting 4 inch vanes and wasnt grouping with my bh's as well as i would have liked so i switched to blazers and the difference was astronomical! i wont ever shoot 4 inch vanes again and i shot them for 16 years. with practice tips i didnt notice a difference but when i switched to bh's the improvement was hugely noticeable!
Blazers definately help alot. I've been tinkering with NAP Quickspins, and am finding them tightening my groups even more. I haven't tuned them for 60+ yards shots with broadheads yet, so we'll see.
I agree w/ the blazers, first year useing them and love em. Slapped on a muzzy 3 blade 100gr and omg i was impressed how stable they flew after i got the bow sighted in w/ fieldpoints.
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I used to love the shuttle t's but I've switched to slick tricks and tune to the string they fly like darts and i've had no issue on many animals . I'm not a fan of two blade broadheads on elk inless they have a bleeder blade like the hell fires . a fatty elk will plug up a two blade wound channell and make tracking tough . on a recurve I feel they work better . a few years ago I did a broad head test with 100 plus lbs of ke and the t locks where the toughest , next was the hell fires .
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Slim, I usually use 125gr magnus stinger buzzcuts. I made the choice to shoot a different bow about a month before the season because I was shooting it better than my (then) current hunting bow. It was tuned and sighted in for 100gr tips and I had some 100gr slick tricks. Ill stick to the stingers til I lose a blade then it will be back to shuttle t's. I'm done with the st's.
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My buddy last year spined and elk w/four blade Slick tricks (125gr). Did not fully penetrate and busted two of the four blades off. FYI, he was shooting a Mathews M7 at almost 80lbs! I used to shoot Slick tricks too, but penetration isn't as good as some other brands. Buddy still shoots them, but I switched to 150gr single-bevel two-blade Samurai BHs from Alaska Bowhunting. Complete double-lung pass thru on a BIG fatty cow after busting both ribs (near and far side). Plus the single-bevel broadheads continue to rotate as they penetrate. In other words, big hole and easy tracking job! My bow is a Hoyt trykon XL at 70lbs, 31.5" draw and almost 90lbs KE
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My buddy last year spined and elk w/four blade Slick tricks (125gr). Did not fully penetrate and busted two of the four blades off. FYI, he was shooting a Mathews M7 at almost 80lbs! I used to shoot Slick tricks too, but penetration isn't as good as some other brands. Buddy still shoots them, but I switched to 150gr single-bevel two-blade Samurai BHs from Alaska Bowhunting. Complete double-lung pass thru on a BIG fatty cow after busting both ribs (near and far side). Plus the single-bevel broadheads continue to rotate as they penetrate. In other words, big hole and easy tracking job! My bow is a Hoyt trykon XL at 70lbs, 31.5" draw and almost 90lbs KE
If you spine an elk you can't expect a passthrough as you already know, but there is no doubt that a 4 blade head will never out penetrate a 2 or 3 blade head of equal cutting diameter. I routinely shoot for the meat of the shoulder on elk and deer to try and shoot out the top of the heart. I still get mostly passthroughs.
As for the blades breaking I wouldn't say that's the fault of the broadhead. I have hit the shoulder bone solid on an elk and buried into the bone up to the insert. Once I got the broadhead out there was no damage. The spine can put side pressure on the blades as it moves and twists. Who knows how that head broke.
This is where I shoot elk. Too many guys are worried about the shoulder in my opinion and don't understand the anatomy of their prey. Too many bowhunters seem to gut shoot elk. It's pretty easy to see why.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fa693581b-c99b-cff2.jpg&hash=f699ed2bd6ea7b21626506b75523f704ec0cb957)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fa693581b-c9ae-22ff.jpg&hash=666c31a59ec84a74822c4bce437bec9450513c8c)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fa693581b-c9be-3cb7.jpg&hash=e423ed595b9984bfa7c2ce05b29c3384ffdd9641)
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sweet picture of that bull... wonder how that happened to him :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
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sweet picture of that bull... wonder how that happened to him :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
He had a rough day. ;)
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Nobody shooting G5 montecs? I was given some as a gift this year and planning on trying them out. Thoughts?
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Nobody shooting G5 montecs? I was given some as a gift this year and planning on trying them out. Thoughts?
i personaly did not like them, my brother and i shot them for two years and then the carbon montecs for another one year. in 6 elk and two deer the majority did not bleed out,the entry holes closed up i gues creating a sort of blood shot goop and shyty blood trails.all but one animal ran over a hundred yards befor crashing(idk if thats a normal distance but so far the slick tricks have done far better)
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I have had opposite results with montecs :dunno: fly well and really tough. no problem blowing through shoulders. 4 deer haven't made it farther than fifty yards all the while leaving a blood trail a blind monkey could follow. but I guess everyone's experiences differ with broadheads.
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You can't go wrong with wac'ems, I shot a cow at 55yds broke 2 ribs with a pass through and still went 2 inches into a tree behind it. I showed it to my buddy and he asked if he could use that same broadhead (he didn't even change the blades) and the next day he shot a cow at 30-40yds it went through the front shoulder 1 rib and somehow popped out the top of its back. :yike:
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You can't go wrong with wac'ems, I shot a cow at 55yds broke 2 ribs with a pass through and still went 2 inches into a tree behind it. I showed it to my buddy and he asked if he could use that same broadhead (he didn't even change the blades) and the next day he shot a cow at 30-40yds it went through the front shoulder 1 rib and somehow popped out the top of its back. :yike:
I've shot wac'ems before good head my question is why the hell would your buddy want to shoot a used broadhead that isn't sharp.
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The montecs aren't as sharp as replacables for sure but make up for it through toughness. that heart shot is a weird one :dunno:
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Nobody shooting G5 montecs? I was given some as a gift this year and planning on trying them out. Thoughts?
I shoot 'em. I sharpen them fast with their sharpener or replace the blades if they get too dinged up. I really like them. The replaceable razors are pretty sturdy.
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I shoot 175 gr VPA Terminators.
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I shoot 175 gr VPA Terminators.
You're a super manly man, though Fred. Not all of us can even hold one of those at full draw without dropping the tip! :yike:
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I use shuttle or terminal t!
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I shoot 175 gr VPA Terminators.
You're a super manly man, though Fred. Not all of us can even hold one of those at full draw without dropping the tip! :yike:
:chuckle:
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Shot WASP for years, but am switching to Shuttle T, black ops this year since they changed their sharpening on them...
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Has anyone ever shot the Muzzy Phantoms? Look pretty sweet especially for a trad setup
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Has anyone ever shot the Muzzy Phantoms? Look pretty sweet especially for a trad setup
That's what I use. I don't go traditional though. Have not gotten a shot at an elk since I switched, but killed couple of deer with it. Switched after losing a blood trail on a wounded elk with traditional trochar tip. It was a good hit but not a complete pass through, but pouring down rain and dark (so much so, that I was walking back to camp in about 6 inches of standing water. I was only 20 yards and so have no doubts about the shot. If I had an exit hole on the other side, then the elk would have gone down quicker and I think I would have been more likely to find her. I figure if I can get a four blade cut on contact to hit, it is going to pass through. Exit hole is always going to bleed more, and two holes is going to bleed more than one, and any major vessels along the path of the cutting blace are going to bleed like stink. There's now a 150 grain version.
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Man you guys are killing me ....with all these leaded broadheads ..... just do not need them :twocents: but whatever floats your boat .... I never had trouble killing anything with a 75 gr broadhead ( I will not say what kind :chuckle:) then I went to an 85gr and still the same results and then to 100 gr and still the same results ...just alittle more gap between the pins but never nothen over a 100 for me ... just me speaking :chuckle: :chuckle:
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Slicktricks!!!
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Increased FOC (front of center) will stabilize better and result in tighter groups. Something probably more important with the faster bows these days. Sure I could shoot a 45 lb draw and 85 grain broadheads and limit myself to 20-30 yards and kill deer...but I don't want to :). I guarantee, you are not going to get consistent flight with an 85 grain broadhead with my Mathews Z7. Yes it has to be well tuned, I have to have good form, proper spined arrows and a bit of weight on the front of the arrow. I once killed an elk with a 100 grain trochar tip broadhead...just wasn't able to retrieve it because I lost the blood trail in pouring down rain in the dark through thick berry patch (you know the ones with green leaves and little reddish brown spots on a lot of the leaves) . I want to shoot at a 400 lb elk at up to 60-70 yards, have the arrow almost always pass through, and leave a big hole on both sides with a big blood trail to follow under 50 yards to an animal laying on the ground.
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If the elk didn't die within 150 yards it wasn't the broadheads fault... if you put any broad head into the lungs the animal will die. I have had passthroughs on elk up to 65 yards with a 100 gr shuttle t on a 365 grain arrow out of a 60 lb bow. Also not had pass through inside 30 yards with same set up. Both elk dead inside 40 yards from hit.
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I don't see any problems with my 85 grain broadheads.
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If the elk didn't die within 150 yards it wasn't the broadheads fault... if you put any broad head into the lungs the animal will die. I have had passthroughs on elk up to 65 yards with a 100 gr shuttle t on a 365 grain arrow out of a 60 lb bow. Also not had pass through inside 30 yards with same set up. Both elk dead inside 40 yards from hit.
You can also kill one with a .22. That doesn't mean I'm going to use one. I understand you prefer a smaller broadhead. However, I have to compensate for my other shortcomings in life. I use a 125. They fly right, they do lots of damage, and I usually have a plethora of bodily fluids to follow to the downed animal.
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You can also kill one with a .22. That doesn't mean I'm going to use one. I understand you prefer a smaller broadhead. However, I have to compensate for my other shortcomings in life. I use a 125. They fly right, they do lots of damage, and I usually have a plethora of bodily fluids to follow to the downed animal.
can't argue about wanting a bigger hole. And I agree that more blood on the ground is better. My comment was more directed to the case of jechicdr blaming a lost elk on a trocar tip. I have used plenty of heads from muzzy to thunderhead to montec and stingers and shuttle t... nothing had issues killing what I shot at when placement was good.
I will most likely end up shooting 125s next year when I go moose hunting because I want an arrow that weighs 450+ with good foc.
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You can also kill one with a .22. That doesn't mean I'm going to use one. I understand you prefer a smaller broadhead. However, I have to compensate for my other shortcomings in life. I use a 125. They fly right, they do lots of damage, and I usually have a plethora of bodily fluids to follow to the downed animal.
can't argue about wanting a bigger hole. And I agree that more blood on the ground is better. My comment was more directed to the case of jechicdr blaming a lost elk on a trocar tip. I have used plenty of heads from muzzy to thunderhead to montec and stingers and shuttle t... nothing had issues killing what I shot at when placement was good.
I will most likely end up shooting 125s next year when I go moose hunting because I want an arrow that weighs 450+ with good foc.
I'm not sure how long your arrows are, but I'm shooting a 30" Beaman ICS Camo Hunters 340 +/- .003 tolerance. With the 125s, my arrow weight is 472, shooting 62 lbs. The shaft is 10 gr/inch.
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You can also kill one with a .22. That doesn't mean I'm going to use one. I understand you prefer a smaller broadhead. However, I have to compensate for my other shortcomings in life. I use a 125. They fly right, they do lots of damage, and I usually have a plethora of bodily fluids to follow to the downed animal.
can't argue about wanting a bigger hole. And I agree that more blood on the ground is better. My comment was more directed to the case of jechicdr blaming a lost elk on a trocar tip. I have used plenty of heads from muzzy to thunderhead to montec and stingers and shuttle t... nothing had issues killing what I shot at when placement was good.
I will most likely end up shooting 125s next year when I go moose hunting because I want an arrow that weighs 450+ with good foc.
There were a lot of factors involved in that lost elk. After I made the shot and heard the hollow *thwack*, the elk jumped and ran...about 20 yards and laid down. I knew it was a good hit. I did not see that the elk had stopped, as she was on the other side of some thick brush. All I could see at that time was torrents of rain that began to fall shortly after the shot. I waited 15 minutes imagining the blood trail washing away the longer I sat there. First mistake was getting up, but if she had run 75 or 100 yards, my mistake would have been continuing to sit there. When I cleared the brush, she jumped from her bedded position and ran, leaving behind a large puddle of blood in the bed she just vacated. Saw her run another 50 yards before I lost sight of her. At that point, I stopped and waited as I became wetter and wetter with the continued torrent of rain, and darkness falling. Yard by yard, I followed a decent blood trail about 40 yards (by now pitch black outside). I had to touch every drop of rain on every red spot on those darn berry bush leaves to see if it was blood or just a red spot on the leaf. I would lose the trail and backtrack to the last known spot of confirmed blood and return to the search. The blood trail became thicker and I found a bed with a pool of blood in it. Only problem was that the bed was the same place I started originally. I had followed the trail backwards back to my starting point. I had no "visible" landmarks to tell me I was going back over my steps. I attempted to follow the trail again back the other direction and only got 25 yards before I lost the trail again. I resigned to return in the morning when it was light. I walked home in 6 inches of standing water to camp and crawled into the tent. The rain let up a little, long enough for me to get to sleep (which is quite some time when you have just lost an elk). I woke just past midnight with the rain pouring down again just to remind me that any hope of a blood trail still being there would be lost. By morning the sun was shining and the water had mostly seeped into the soil. I returned to the area and found some blood in the bed. I followed my arrows I had stuck in the ground and on occasion would find a small drop of blood either under an overhanging log or on the underside of some of the berry leaves. Once the patch opened up away from the trees and thick brush, not a single drop of blood could be found. I followed the elk trail as it first split into two, then 5, then many trails going through the berry patch cris-crossed with old creek beds and interrupted by strips of trees and bushes, unable to tell which trail would lead to the downed elk. I started tracing increasingly larger circles in the hopes of finding a drop or smear of blood to no avail. There were so many places within a hundred yards where that elk could have gone. It could have fallen 5 yards from many of the spots I was in and I would not have seen her. I searched until about an hour before dark that day and the entire time I was searching was running through the things I could have done differently. The trochar tip was just one of those things. The same shot with a cut on contact with a pass through that evening might have killed the elk a few yards/minutes sooner, made it somewhat easier to track in the dark with pouring rain in a huge thick berry patch that transitioned to very thick forest and a network of trails down any one of which that elk could have gone. I also blamed my headlight, that had enough light to follow a blood trail, but not enough light to see where I was in the big picture, so I invested in a nicer headlight that I save just for tracking game, and use my cheaper headlight for the treks away from and to camp in the dark. I now carry reflective clips and pushpins (pins would have been useless in the berry patch). It was likely a fluke set of circumstances, but it made me consider all the variables that led to losing that elk. If there had been no rain, if it had been earlier in the day, if the blood trail was bigger, if I had not gotten up so soon. I made a lot of changes that day to hopefully prevent that from happening again. If those had been in place that day...who knows.
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I could put any 100 gr broadhead on my bow and it will shoot just fine..bow tuning
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bow tuning is very important. Right behind practice, practice, practice.
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You can also kill one with a .22. That doesn't mean I'm going to use one. I understand you prefer a smaller broadhead. However, I have to compensate for my other shortcomings in life. I use a 125. They fly right, they do lots of damage, and I usually have a plethora of bodily fluids to follow to the downed animal.
can't argue about wanting a bigger hole. And I agree that more blood on the ground is better. My comment was more directed to the case of jechicdr blaming a lost elk on a trocar tip. I have used plenty of heads from muzzy to thunderhead to montec and stingers and shuttle t... nothing had issues killing what I shot at when placement was good.
I will most likely end up shooting 125s next year when I go moose hunting because I want an arrow that weighs 450+ with good foc.
There were a lot of factors involved in that lost elk. After I made the shot and heard the hollow *thwack*, the elk jumped and ran...about 20 yards and laid down. I knew it was a good hit. I did not see that the elk had stopped, as she was on the other side of some thick brush. All I could see at that time was torrents of rain that began to fall shortly after the shot. I waited 15 minutes imagining the blood trail washing away the longer I sat there. First mistake was getting up, but if she had run 75 or 100 yards, my mistake would have been continuing to sit there. When I cleared the brush, she jumped from her bedded position and ran, leaving behind a large puddle of blood in the bed she just vacated. Saw her run another 50 yards before I lost sight of her. At that point, I stopped and waited as I became wetter and wetter with the continued torrent of rain, and darkness falling. Yard by yard, I followed a decent blood trail about 40 yards (by now pitch black outside). I had to touch every drop of rain on every red spot on those darn berry bush leaves to see if it was blood or just a red spot on the leaf. I would lose the trail and backtrack to the last known spot of confirmed blood and return to the search. The blood trail became thicker and I found a bed with a pool of blood in it. Only problem was that the bed was the same place I started originally. I had followed the trail backwards back to my starting point. I had no "visible" landmarks to tell me I was going back over my steps. I attempted to follow the trail again back the other direction and only got 25 yards before I lost the trail again. I resigned to return in the morning when it was light. I walked home in 6 inches of standing water to camp and crawled into the tent. The rain let up a little, long enough for me to get to sleep (which is quite some time when you have just lost an elk). I woke just past midnight with the rain pouring down again just to remind me that any hope of a blood trail still being there would be lost. By morning the sun was shining and the water had mostly seeped into the soil. I returned to the area and found some blood in the bed. I followed my arrows I had stuck in the ground and on occasion would find a small drop of blood either under an overhanging log or on the underside of some of the berry leaves. Once the patch opened up away from the trees and thick brush, not a single drop of blood could be found. I followed the elk trail as it first split into two, then 5, then many trails going through the berry patch cris-crossed with old creek beds and interrupted by strips of trees and bushes, unable to tell which trail would lead to the downed elk. I started tracing increasingly larger circles in the hopes of finding a drop or smear of blood to no avail. There were so many places within a hundred yards where that elk could have gone. It could have fallen 5 yards from many of the spots I was in and I would not have seen her. I searched until about an hour before dark that day and the entire time I was searching was running through the things I could have done differently. The trochar tip was just one of those things. The same shot with a cut on contact with a pass through that evening might have killed the elk a few yards/minutes sooner, made it somewhat easier to track in the dark with pouring rain in a huge thick berry patch that transitioned to very thick forest and a network of trails down any one of which that elk could have gone. I also blamed my headlight, that had enough light to follow a blood trail, but not enough light to see where I was in the big picture, so I invested in a nicer headlight that I save just for tracking game, and use my cheaper headlight for the treks away from and to camp in the dark. I now carry reflective clips and pushpins (pins would have been useless in the berry patch). It was likely a fluke set of circumstances, but it made me consider all the variables that led to losing that elk. If there had been no rain, if it had been earlier in the day, if the blood trail was bigger, if I had not gotten up so soon. I made a lot of changes that day to hopefully prevent that from happening again. If those had been in place that day...who knows.
I need to find the pictures of my big bull I shot at 60yrds with a 70# mathews and a 85gr wasp .... blood trail :yike: Well I will just say this ....when I got home that evening I looked at my pants and jacket and their was blood everywhere from me just tracking it ....not counting puddles of blood everywhere....you hit them in the right spot and you have nothen to worry about ....most elk I have shot have died while I was watching them and all with a wasp :dunno: :chuckle: :chuckle:
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Bh45... you must havejust gotten very lucky each time you made a kill with a wasp... :chuckle: you should probably try some real broadheads next time... :rolleyes:
Just trying to ruffle some feathers.
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If the elk didn't die within 150 yards it wasn't the broadheads fault... if you put any broad head into the lungs the animal will die. I have had passthroughs on elk up to 65 yards with a 100 gr shuttle t on a 365 grain arrow out of a 60 lb bow. Also not had pass through inside 30 yards with same set up. Both elk dead inside 40 yards from hit.
i used to agree with your train of thought,but after the 2010 season i have a new found respect for how tough these animals are. no doubt the animal will die with an arrow in its lungs but if your useing a dull blade and that broad head didnt pass all the way through and isnt tearing things up on the inside i have no doubt an elk can live for quit some time with dull broad head in em,regardless of weight.
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yeah we all have our own opinion but some never learn .... :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: when I was a kid I could remember my dad and I trying every broadhead made and still to this day I think wasp has done the best job for us....I have taken my share of game back in the day with a bear broadhead ...remember the ones with the bleeder blade ? One theory I have learned regardless of what broadhead you like is for one having the chiseled tip is a most and going with the smaller diameter broadhead with penetrate bone much better than a big one :twocents:
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Bowhunter, that reply was much too nice for what I was expecting...
...no fun! I wanted.to get you wound up about them heads again... :tung:
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Now everyone knows my opinion and knows what I shoot I will never comment on broadheads again ;) :chuckle: :chuckle: PROMISE !
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Now everyone knows my opinion and knows what I shoot I will never comment on broadheads again ;) :chuckle: :chuckle: PROMISE !
dangit... how is anyone gonna know about the wasp BOSS if your not preachin it. so many animals are gonna be runing around wounded from a lesser broadhead now that your outta the picture. :chuckle: :chuckle:
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a blade broke off on my bull using slick tricks last year. wasnt a fan of that and wont be shooting them anymore. :twocents:
Between my partner and I, we have killed 13 elk in the last five years with ST's (and a lot of deer). About half of the elk we got second arrows into also. We have not had a single blade break and I have used the same ferrule on 5 animals before it no longer spun true. I think you got really unlucky if that makes you feel better. ST's are probably the most reliable and toughest head on the market.
I'm curious what head you are thinking about going to because I am willing to bet I could direct you to multiple horror stories about it breaking.
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innerloc. better dig deep
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don't let the marketing hype of all these new smaller broadheads cloud your judgement. i.e. slick trick, shuttle t, whack em..... shoot a broadhead that penetrates, is durable, has replaceable razor sharp blades, and has a longer cutting surface. i personally think that all steel broadheads are going to lead to more animal loss. there are too many lazy people out there that won't take the time to sharpen their broadheads the proper way. a razor sharp broadhead is a must. an animal shot with fresh blades will go down quickly more times than not, even with poor placement. most broadheads will penetrate bone. those that have shot through bone with type "A" have not used type "B" and will think type "A" is the best, bar none, don't use anything else. type "B" users think they are shooting the best. vicious circle. me, at the current time, i have been using thunderheads 100. i used innerlocs and muzzy for a while and yes wasp, waaaaay back in the day. i have had no problems with any of them. tuning with thunderheads is easier.
as for tuning. and to keep it simple, do the bare shaft test. its very reliable and use a shaft alignment tool. (basically a thing that you can roll the arrow on to indicate arrows that are not true and to test if your broad is true). pick your best arrows out of a dozen for hunting and tune them. set them aside for just hunting. use the others for farting around with on the range. :twocents:
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Hard to beat a Muzzy
My bull last year was a clean pass through breaking ribs and still buried in a tree, and will use it again this year
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I like shooting my wac'ems, slick tricks, and innerlocs. All of them shoot well for me when I have everything tuned right arrows,broadheads and bow.
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I swear I will :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)
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I believe that shuttle t-locks are the best fly fantastic out of my heli-m and penetrate really well