Truck Campers - school me

[Skillet]

Seriously considering a truck camper.  Have a 2006 f250 4x4 w/ 8' bed.  Looking for a good 4 season camper that is easy in- easy out, can tow a boat behind no problem.  My preference is towards function over form (ie., I don't care who has the fancier patterns on their upholstery, but I do want to know which ones keep heat in the winter better and heat out in the summer).  Will need to accommodate my 6-1+ height for standing and sleeping, and would need to be able to have a second sleeping area (convertible dinette, etc) for a hunting/fishing buddy.

Not looking to spend a ton - old is great if it is good.

Thoughts?  Things to look out for or avoid?

[NoBark]

I love mine,     This is what I would look for.     Your number one concern will be a camper that DOSEN'T leak.    If you go older, make sure you reseal the roof when you get it.

Most campers have no problem staying warm.   For really cold weather camping, some have a "cold weather package"  but basically, good thick curtains and a styrafoam plug in the big escape vent over the bed will be helpful.   More often the cold weather issue isn't warmth but condensation. 

Most campers made in the last 20 years will be more than tall enough for you. My lance is  6'9" inside.  most are about 6'6".   

Hope you find one and enjoy!

[wildmanoutdoors]

If you want to take it off and put it on fast then obiously look for remote jacks.

Attwoods are cheap, HappiJacs are expensive. You get what you pay for.

Interior applicences the same...Dometic, Surbuban are good. Attwood, Coleman ect are cheaper. Again, get what you pay for.

Try to find one that has a cold weather package. My underfloor heats and keeps tanks from freezing.

Make sure you can walk on floor when unsupported. Some of the older ones you cant...

Towing a boat is in your hitches ratings. I have a 9 and a 1/2. I use a superhitch with a 36" extension. Max load 5000 pounds. If you want full tow capacity get an 8 footer so you dont need an extension.
Really depends on how much weight you want to tow?

[Skillet]

Good info guys - thanks.

How to tell if it leaks on a nice hot dry summer day?  Would it help to run a hose on the roof for a few minutes if the seller was game?  How about clues on the inside - ie., mildew, water stains, etc.  Any "hotspots" that are tell-tale places to check for water intrusion?

Boat and trailer combo doesn't weigh that much, probably under 4000# all-in loaded with fuel, gear and road-ready.  I have a Curt Class 4 hitch that has plenty of excess capacity.

Is it worth it to look for the 9.5' vs the 8' for most uses?    Anybody get the 9.5 and feel like they have too much camper?  I plan on taking it up into some "end of the road" areas, so I definitely don't want to have too much camper if an 8'er will work.  The point is to get out there to "GET OUT THERE", not drive somewhere so I can hide inside.  That said, when the weather is terrible, I'd like a place that I can hang clothes to dry, and just basically not have to worry about them touching the side of the tent anymore 

[wildmanoutdoors]

If it leaks, there will be stains! If no stains its probably good to go. But you still want to reseal frequently. My 05 eagle had leaks last year from the sealer getting old and pulling away.

There should be up top corner cabinets on each side of the bed. Look in those!

Get a ladder and look at the outside sealing areas to see if its cracked. Especially front corners that see 60 MPH air and rain getting pounded in. You can see it when caulk starts going bad. You will see a gap in the sealing to panel or bead.

Mines a 9-5 and I love its size. Go look at some 8 and 9.5s at the dealer and see what you might miss having. Or look at floorplans online. Its all about what you can live with.

A slide is the biggest area adder. It really opens up the inside nicely.

[Encore 280]

Make sure the roof is one piece. I have a Lance 8 and a half, it's my first one and I like it. Not a whole lotta storage space in it but it works fine for me and the wife. Electric jacks is the way to go. I had the manual crank ones that came with it then bought two cordless drills thinking me and the wife could do it that way. She bout broke her wrist when the jack bottomed out so that took care of that idea. Now I have an extra drill.  Go to Craigslist and do a search for "campers" and check 'em out.

[MIKEXRAY]

I bought a 1994 camper in 2000 for $ 5000 and am still using it today.  Most campers smell "mildewy"  when I found one that didn't I bought it, mine after 12 years still has no leaks & no smell.  I have a 9 ft and it comes perfectly even with my bumper. I can do any towing without any special hitch equipment, if you get a 10 ft or bigger you will need hitch extensions etc.  Mine did have a "winter package " but am not sure what it entails except maybe a little extra insulation or ? I have never had problems keeping it warm, heater runs a little more when freezing out.  Electric jacks would be nice, if you find a great camper I would not make that a deal breaker. I can put my camper on and tied down in 15 minutes, coming off is faster.  Oven &  inside shower I didn't find necessary but mine had them and ended up using them a lot. I wouldn't go to old as you have more chances for wood rot etc, I would look in the 5-8 year old range and will have a pretty good price reduction. Some of my friends have paid over $ 30k for a new camper and i think that is crazy.  Doesn't even come with a power train.  Mike

[gasman]

Not much more i can add except to look every where for rot or water stains. under cushions, cabinets, out side storage areas, under mattress, etc..


Electric jacks are a must. they will make and break deal for me. It just cost to much to add them to a camper, and they are a time saver for loading and unloading.

Had an 8' and now i have 9'6". you will be surprised on how much room and storage a foot and half will give you.

[Hilltop123]

As already mentioned......the smell and stain test, will take you along way......Just keep in mind, that the weights listed on the sticker, that should be posted somewhere on the rear of the camper, some will be so fade to be illegible,  are dry weights, unless otherwise stated. This means the weight listed is without propane, water, and all the other goodies that will end up,  being the total contents, of your camper. It will add up quickly. Trust me, been there, still doing that.....

[gasman]

And I would add air bags to the truck suspension.

It helps a whole lot 

Even my buddies with one ton trucks have air bags. It helps the ride so much more.

[deadwoodbuck]

hey gasman...do you level your camper with the air bags after it is loaded with stuff?  how do you know you are level?  I have air bags on my camper and highly recommend them.

[Encore 280]

I put an '04 Lance 815 (2007lbs) on my '04 F150 STX and it rode fine but I opted to go with a Tembrin helper system and I'm happy with them. You don't have to worry about putting air in or letting air out. They work really slick. I didn't really need them but wanted them for when I haul the boat and the camper. With just the camper alone the truck still had an inch or so before the stock ones set on the axel housing. The truck rides great and no back and forth rocking or swaying. I've got Michellan tires and I put 75 lbs of air in when the camper's on. I'm new at this camper stuff as well, I've only had it since last December.

[gasman]

hey gasman...do you level your camper with the air bags after it is loaded with stuff?  how do you know you are level?  I have air bags on my camper and highly recommend them.

It really depends o where I am going.

If I'm just driving the hwy, no biggie, just add about 40-50lbs of air, but If I am hitting the FS roads or Hwy 410  i max out the air pressure and my camper don't move a bit.

I used to use a portable plug in air compressor  but now I just use a small CO2 tank I have. Air them up and when I get to camp or take my camper off, I just let out the air and then air it back up when the camper goes back on.

I considered the helper spring, but like the comfort of being able to increase or decrease my suspension ride as I want. I dont have to worry if i have to much weight, or how much travel I left. The air bags give me all the room I need.

[wildmanoutdoors]

I had air bags also. I run a 95 Ford Powerstroke. I have hauled my Camper many thousands of miles and dirts roads on the West Coast of Canada and Vancouver Island.

My frame from being point loaded with airbags finally broke in half right were the airbag mounts were bolted. Both sides exactly the same.

I suppose if you dont do allot of serious dirt roading, and keep your PSI to a minimum you will likely be fine. After I fixed my frame I went with a Hellwig 1.5 ton progressive kit. While its not as easy to adjust, once there I just leave it. And no more point loading on the frame.

Google frame braking from airbags. You'll be surprised how ofetn it happens...

[deadwoodbuck]

hey thanks for the tips...going to be looking into the frame braking